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Old 03-29-2011, 02:08 PM   #136
mcma111
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Floats

It's real simple boys. If the float sinks then fuel should be running out of the over flow tube. No fuel running = no sunk float. A float needle that doesn't seat (crap in the way) will do the same thing.
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Old 03-29-2011, 02:22 PM   #137
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Originally Posted by Brauhausbier View Post
Thanks Dave! I just ordered new floats and a new fuel screw. Looks like the PO had snapped off the screw head on the fuel screw

This is a 17 y/o carb, so some fresh floats are a good call. The float needle looks good as does all other parts in the OE kehin carb. I picked up a 160 main jet and a 65 pilot jet too for further messing around. WIll have these parts on Thursday! Love that quick shipping from RM ATV

I'm picking up some starting fluid and onto swapping in the Mikuni tonight for Take #3. I need some luck on my side

Intersted in dropping by tonight Dave???
Sure! I can swing by. If it would stop raining I'd ride the 950, although I have the bars off waiting for new bushings, but there is always the 530!
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Old 03-29-2011, 02:25 PM   #138
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Sure! I can swing by. If it would stop raining I'd ride the 950, although I have the bars off waiting for new bushings, but there is always the 530!

Sweet! I'll be home by 5:30pm. Might want to drive? The rain is looking pretty wet out there
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Old 03-29-2011, 03:41 PM   #139
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Have you tried turning off the fuel, draining the carb and a shot of starting fluid? You should get it to fire for a second or more on just ether...

Just a thought. Also, pulling behind a car and bump starting will save your kicking leg

Best of luck!!!
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Old 03-29-2011, 03:47 PM   #140
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Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
It's real simple boys. If the float sinks then fuel should be running out of the over flow tube. No fuel running = no sunk float. A float needle that doesn't seat (crap in the way) will do the same thing.
We checked that. With the carb off the bike but hooked up to the tank, the bowl filled but did not overflow. The float looked perfect and the float needle sealed. I didn't think to weigh the float, but it felt about right flopping around on the pivot.

There was gas on the spark plug, but not enough to foul it. At least, it still sparked in open air when wet.







Does anyone know what the height of the throttle slide should be at idle? We tried adjusting the idle speed screw a half turn at a time from closed to way too far open, but troubleshooting would be easier if we had an 'about right' setting to start from.


Also, how hard should the bike be to kick over? It has a hotcam, so there is no auto decomp, but the effort felt in between my xr400 and ktm 640. I didn't use the manual decomp for kicking, just for trying to clear it out. On the 640 when the autodecomp wasn't working I could stand on the lever and it wouldn't move without the manual decomp. I would've guessed that this bike would be the same.
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Old 03-29-2011, 03:55 PM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wattner View Post
Have you tried turning off the fuel, draining the carb and a shot of starting fluid? You should get it to fire for a second or more on just ether...

Just a thought. Also, pulling behind a car and bump starting will save your kicking leg

Best of luck!!!
Thanks Wattner! I'm picking up some starting fluid after work and will try that out tonight. We'll swap in the Mikuni Flatslide and see what happens and add a dash of starter fluid
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Old 03-29-2011, 03:56 PM   #142
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We checked that. With the carb off the bike but hooked up to the tank, the bowl filled but did not overflow. The float looked perfect and the float needle sealed. I didn't think to weigh the float, but it felt about right flopping around on the pivot.

There was gas on the spark plug, but not enough to foul it. At least, it still sparked in open air when wet.







Does anyone know what the height of the throttle slide should be at idle? We tried adjusting the idle speed screw a half turn at a time from closed to way too far open, but troubleshooting would be easier if we had an 'about right' setting to start from.


Also, how hard should the bike be to kick over? It has a hotcam, so there is no auto decomp, but the effort felt in between my xr400 and ktm 640. I didn't use the manual decomp for kicking, just for trying to clear it out. On the 640 when the autodecomp wasn't working I could stand on the lever and it wouldn't move without the manual decomp. I would've guessed that this bike would be the same.
Thanks Luke, I had the same thoughts. Thanks for all the help last night I owe you one!
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Old 03-29-2011, 03:58 PM   #143
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my bike

kick down till you feel it stop. Then use decomp to go just a hair past (just a hair) that and let it up and kick it. This procedure works on my 6 all day long
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Old 03-29-2011, 05:34 PM   #144
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Does anyone know what the height of the throttle slide should be at idle? We tried adjusting the idle speed screw a half turn at a time from closed to way too far open, but troubleshooting would be easier if we had an 'about right' setting to start from.


Also, how hard should the bike be to kick over? It has a hotcam, so there is no auto decomp, but the effort felt in between my xr400 and ktm 640. I didn't use the manual decomp for kicking, just for trying to clear it out. On the 640 when the autodecomp wasn't working I could stand on the lever and it wouldn't move without the manual decomp. I would've guessed that this bike would be the same.
The slide should just slightly be up. I was going to suggest you check the idle adjuster. I couldn't start one of mine after a rebuild, finally got it lit and it was set to idle at like 4k rpm.

As far as effort to kick it, it should be the same as the 640 although it may have less resistance if the rings are dry. You could squirt some oil down the plug hole and see if it makes a difference, although it shouldn't really affect starting
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Old 03-29-2011, 06:19 PM   #145
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The old, sure fire XR drill.... Hold in compression release, kick motor through five times with ZERO throttle. One swift kick with compression release in and FULL throttle...

let compression release off, bring to TDC (Top Dead Center.... the hardest part of the stroke), then release the kickstarter back up and give it a full kick through, no compression release. This works almost 100% of the time, if the carb is adjusted correctly. This clears out a flooded motor

Try the drill a few times and if this does not get the bike to fire, there is likely another issue
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Old 03-29-2011, 06:30 PM   #146
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Hotcam = no compression release, guys...


BHB, you'll be doing some kicking... put the tires in the gutter with the curb on the left so your left foot is up a bit, gives you a bit of height advantage while kicking.
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Old 03-29-2011, 07:00 PM   #147
Wattner
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Hotcam = no compression release, guys...


BHB, you'll be doing some kicking... put the tires in the gutter with the curb on the left so your left foot is up a bit, gives you a bit of height advantage while kicking.
DOH.... The drill will work, just slow going to not jamb your leg.... 5 kicks NO gas, one with FULL throttle, find TDC and give it a man kick! Watch out for the kickback, it can be a cast affair! DAMHIK
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Old 03-29-2011, 11:08 PM   #148
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Round 3/ Still unable to start the XR

I got home after work and cleaned out the Mikuni and swapped that in.

My buddy Dave came over who has had an XR400 to help me trouble shoot and see if we could start it.

--- Gas was on and in the carb - confirmed

- choke on

- confirmed spark on outside of motor

- tried kicking on compression for a while, no pops, spurts or sputters

- injected starter fluid down the airbox - nothing

- injected starter fluid directly down the spark plug hole - nothing

- injected gas down the spark plug hole - nothing

Seems that we have spark outside the cylinder, but maybe not in the cylinder? I could not believe that nothing could be ignited? I'm mystified.

We even tried bump starting. The motor definitely went though a few cycles - nothing.

I'm running out of ideas. Might start calling around for a shop that might have time to check out my bike. I was so hoping I could bring life back to this bike, and more mystified than ever of what could be the smoking gun?

Anyone have any further ideas? Thanks
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Old 03-29-2011, 11:15 PM   #149
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Old 03-29-2011, 11:34 PM   #150
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Worth a look

dont want to sound like a DICK here but did you double check as you were cranking around with the sight cover off to get to top dead center that you were on the respective valves you were adjusting ? If they are too tight the bike will have everything but will be releasing compression on the wrong stroke through the exhaust valves. Try setting your exhaust valves loose and try and start it.
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I really like what your are trying to do. I'm just not sure about how you are trying to do it. It's been a pressure working with you and the pleasure was all yours. If you need me I'll call ya..
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