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Old 04-03-2011, 04:04 AM   #46
wirewrkr
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When you get back, drop me a line, I have a contact in Southern Cal that actually manufactures replacement rubber bits for Zundapps.
Such as the carb booties.
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Old 04-03-2011, 06:29 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wirewrkr View Post
When you get back, drop me a line, I have a contact in Southern Cal that actually manufactures replacement rubber bits for Zundapps.
Such as the carb booties.
I need all that stuff...I'll be contacting you!
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Old 04-03-2011, 04:37 PM   #48
scottyb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wirewrkr View Post
When you get back, drop me a line, I have a contact in Southern Cal that actually manufactures replacement rubber bits for Zundapps.
Such as the carb booties.
send or post the link, the guy probably needs business, i want the kick start rubber which they say is the passenger peg rubbers too. thx
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Old 04-03-2011, 05:22 PM   #49
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Congratulations on your new Zundapp, it looks like you did quite well.
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Old 04-12-2011, 06:47 PM   #50
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The Maroon , "Green Elephant."


Finally had a few minutes to play with the bike and removed the old alloy fender blanks and fitted the original fenders and tool box back on.



Looks like a Zundapp again.
The front lower fender brace, also used as a front stand, doesn't quite fit right. Zundapp Guru tells me they are all alike so maybe the fender is tweeked. Doesn't look like it though. Lovely paint scheme if I do say.


The rear fender is in two sections. The lower section removes to allow easier tire changes. The front / rear wheels are interchangeable.



Nice old bulky looking fenders.



The cylinders each have a charge of Marvel Oil. Next I'll pull the heads and see what's cook'in in the cylinders.
Just had to see what it looked like with the proper fenders in place.
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Old 04-13-2011, 02:21 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwhacker View Post
Just had to see what it looked like with the proper fenders in place.
Looks good! I couldn't have resisted having a peek as well. It's fun trowing things together just to look and dream.
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Old 04-16-2011, 02:29 PM   #52
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Maroon Green Elephant.
Tires were pretty much flat but to my surprise they still held air after all the dormant years. Sure rolls easier with air in the tires.
Out for her first bath in 30 years. Used up a big can of de-greaser and knocked off a few dozen years of grime.


The bike is heavy and a bitch to get up on the center stand....I tweeked my shoulder pulling her up. I rigged the blue side hack leg
I had sitting around to avoid the center stand for now. Came to find out that the center stand has a ratchet device which doesn't require a total deployment. A spring is missing so I'll try to fix it.



Started looking things over closer:

The tank interior looked completely clean as far as I can tell. Still has the little removable fuel strainer screen in place. I'll bet most of them went to the garbage.



The fuel petcocks look real good and still turn as they should with minimal resistance.


The transmission linkage travels through the transmission from the pedal to this exterior linkage. The earlier "hand shift" Zundapps have a similar linkage that goes to the hand shift lever, rather than through the transmission to the left side.


A familiar name...



The Bing carb rubber covers are still there but pretty close to rotting.
Individual rocker covers for each valve.


The frame has factory installed sidecar lugs for a chair.



The brake hub is very straight with stains but no scars....the big end fork nut at the bottom simply screws out to release the axle for tire changing. Kind of scary. No tools needed, just a little bar. The front and rear wheels are interchangable too.


These photos show the center mounted front shock which extends up through the triple tree. From what I can figure the forks have no damping ability, just springs. The center shock bolts to the fender and performs the damping duties.
The big alloy headlight ears are painted on most of the other Zundapp photos I've seen. I kind of like the raw metal look.




Won't be pulling anything apart for a few months as we'll be out of state until late June. Have to leave the projects sit for a while.

The heads will come off when I get back to things and we'll see how bad or good things are. I don't have my hopes set too high.

The further engine investigation will determine if I proceed or bail out and put her up for sale. Just can't afford spending a fortune restoring it. If I can get her running for under a grand I'll be elated.
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Old 04-16-2011, 06:50 PM   #53
biker451
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Zundapp KS601 shop manuals

James Marshall and I have been buying up Zundapp manuals, parts lists and brochures; scanning them and putting them up at the Zundapp Fool site:
http://www.zundappfool.com
And the best part? They are FREE. We just really want to encourage folk to restore these great, and rare, machines.

You will find the Post-War "stuff" at:
http://www.zundappfool.com/techstuff/tech_post-war.htm

We put them up on-line in HTML/.JPG format and some are also in Adobe Acrobat .PDF and MS Word .DOC formats.

I do hope you find them of value.

Sheldon Aubut
Webmaster
http://www.zundappfool.com
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Old 04-16-2011, 08:46 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biker451 View Post
James Marshall and I have been buying up Zundapp manuals, parts lists and brochures; scanning them and putting them up at the Zundapp Fool site:
http://www.zundappfool.com
And the best part? They are FREE. We just really want to encourage folk to restore these great, and rare, machines.

You will find the Post-War "stuff" at:
http://www.zundappfool.com/techstuff/tech_post-war.htm

We put them up on-line in HTML/.JPG format and some are also in Adobe Acrobat .PDF and MS Word .DOC formats.

I do hope you find them of value.

Sheldon Aubut
Webmaster
http://www.zundappfool.com
sheldon@sheldonaubut.com
James, his site and his parts supply have already been of great value. The "over haul" manual set me back a bit when I realized how "old school" the engineering on these machines is. I started wrenching in the early 70's but never ran into any machines designed like these. As old school as they are, I read over and over how tough and reliable these bikes are. I surely hope to ride it someday.
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Old 04-17-2011, 12:06 PM   #55
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My curiosity is getting the best of me so I pulled a few pieces off the bike for a peek....

I worked up enough courage to take a look at the battery box. After removing a chunk of inner tube and bailing wire I find that the "battery box" is actually the battery itself. One side is broke out and it has a bakelite cover. I've never seen a battery like that.



The PO couldn't get the oil dip stick loose so he had never looked to see if it even had oil in it. Upon picking up the bike I squirted a whole can of
WD- 40 over about every bolt I could see, including the dip stick.
A minor amount of persuasion and the threads finally unlocked.

Anybody speak German?



The crankcase oil was full and actually looked pretty clean, but the smell. Now I know why they call it "fossil fuel".
I imagine it looked clean because the solids have had over 25 years to settle into the oil pan.




Next I wanted to see under the rocker covers. The WD-40 treatment paid off and all bolts I removed came out easily. The rustly old crash bars came off and now I see I do have a couple of broken / bent / scarred cooling fins. They were hiding behind the crash bars.





I pulled all 4 rocker covers and everything looks pretty good save for a minor coating of grunge as expected. At least all the valves are where they're supposed to be. I had visions of finding a swallowed valve, water intrusion or something ugly.
No major build up of crap or mouse nests anyway. No rust either.


I pulled the air filter out and removed the top engine cover which hides the coil. No rodent evidence in either place which is good.

I'm finding a lot of miss - matched bolts and nuts every where. My BMW bolt stash is replacing some of them. The Zundapp uses a few 11mm and 13mm bolt heads which is different from BMW. Not too many 11mm bolts on a beemer.
I'm sure a person could obtain $$$$$ Zundapp original fasteners but WTF.

I'm itching to pull a cylinder head and take a look, the suspense is killing me....maybe this afternoon?
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Old 04-17-2011, 03:19 PM   #56
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One thing usually goes hand in hand with "old school" and that is simplicity. I'm finding that is the case so far with this bike. As bizarre as the engineering is, it is actually very simple so far.

I couldn't take it any more and proceeded to remove the cylinder heads to take a look at the cylinder bores and piston crowns. The engine is "stuck" so I expected the worst.
This is the assortment of tools needed to perform the task of removing the exhaust system, the carbs, the rocker covers and the cylinder heads.:




I have previously given each cylinder a hit of Marvel Oil. Removing the right cylinder head I found a bit of crud sitting in the cylinder. Looked like carbon that the Marvel Oil has loosened up. I carefully removed a light layer of surface rust which had formed on the bottom of the bore. The cylinder was at a compression stroke sequence with both valves closed.


I removed everything I could and wiped the cylinder down. Used some light crocus cloth to get as much of the rust as I could without moving any metal. The cylinders show no ring ridges and the rust has not pitted the right cylinder at all. A one-over bore might take care of everything if all other measurements are within tolerances. Some carbon is trapped around the piston. I wanted the walls as clean as possible so when the piston is freed it doesn't damage anything.


The left cylinder is in a mid-exhaust stroke with the exhaust valve slightly open. The left cylinder was quite clean and shows little or no rust. No ring ridge present.


I reassembled both cylinders and filled them with Marvel Oil. I'll let them soak a couple months while I'm out of state.
I used the same "Marvel Oil" technique on my last BMW engine resurrection. It was in much worse condition as it had sat outside for 15 years. This motor appears to be in much better order so far.







Elapsed time for this entire operation was under 2 hours.
I'm very happy that the bores are in as good of shape as they are. A couple of weeks ago I had peered into the bores through the spark plug holes and it appeared that both cylinders were full of rust.

I'll drain / pull the oil pan next and see what surprises it holds.

Regardless of how far I take this project I WILL hear this engine run.
Total restoration is far beyond my budget but there's nothing wrong with an old beat up runner. Besides if it runs and actually moves under its' own power, it will bring a lot more $$$$ if I decide to sell it off down the line.

There is hope!
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Old 04-25-2011, 09:57 PM   #57
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Let the $$$"Bleed"$$$ begin

While the engine cylinders soak I've been scrounging up a few misc. parts via the Internet. Parts are out there with a little searching but my Pay Pal account is quickly dwindling.

Found this 50's / 60's NOS 6 Volt horn over in Greece for cheap. Not a KS601 original but the price sure was right. It is around 3.5" diameter so should fit where the original lived. I'll need to bury it in the backyard for a few months so it matches the rest of the bike.
I love buying shit from overseas. When it finally arrives I have forgot I even ordered it. Maybe it will arrive for a Christmas present.



My gas cap is dented up pretty good....this original KS cap has a few less dents. It was a $5.00 purchase.



My KS has one "ball tip" lever and one short spear type lever. I bought the shorter of the two here so I have a matching duo.



Someone in the past has hacked up my linkage. It still functions but the proper pins were missing and the linkage pieces had been split. This replacement linkage is the most expensive item on the page.....but this will get things back in order. The KS600 had both a foot shift and a hand shift lever. They ran a rod from the right side linkage up to a tank side hand lever. Maybe I'll copy that design and rig up a hand lever.



One proper Bing carb screw to replace a BMW idle screw which was improperly fitted.



These are the proper pins needed to affix the new shifter linkages.



I'm missing the front upper fender brace. This brace comes with a nasty old "bobbed" fender. I'll remove the brace and refit it to my fender. I do have some old school, home made, ugly aluminum fender struts but wanted an original one.



This is a clutch cable tensioning spring. My clutch / brake cables are shot. I found an outfit that supplies cable kits to assemble my own cables...maybe I'll give it a shot. Used Zundapp cables are in the near $100.00 range. I can build a set of new ones a lot
cheaper.



So I've gathered nearly all the missing / broken parts....still need to get the rubber bits...shifter, brake, kick start lever rubbers.

The piston rings will likely be needed next, along with some machine work on the heads & cylinders. I'm hoping the bottom in is still servicable but won't know til I dig in.

This KS601 is for sale in Germany.....$16K and rising. It is the 28HP Standard Model.
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...663512286.html

It would probably cost me $20K to get mine in that condition. That ain't gonna happen.
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:34 PM   #58
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Location: MONTANA NATIVE from NATIVE MONTANA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wirewrkr View Post
When you get back, drop me a line, I have a contact in Southern Cal that actually manufactures replacement rubber bits for Zundapps.
Such as the carb booties.
PM sent.
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Old 04-26-2011, 03:19 AM   #59
Combatplumber
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German translation

hier ölkontrolle
hier öl nachfüllen

Translates to:

this oil-control
Here oil refill

Try "Google Translate" A must use site for anyone with a love of old German iron.
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Old 04-26-2011, 04:43 AM   #60
MaraBiker
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This is going to be one of the best resto thread. I just love this Zundapp. Best of luck!
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