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Old 04-03-2011, 09:17 PM   #46921
bkoz
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Does anybody know of aftermarket clutch perch and lever that has the mirror mount built in like the stock DR setup? I am looking for a 2 bolt clamp instead of the OEM 1 bolt clamp.
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Old 04-03-2011, 10:26 PM   #46922
garnaro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkoz View Post
Does anybody know of aftermarket clutch perch and lever that has the mirror mount built in like the stock DR setup? I am looking for a 2 bolt clamp instead of the OEM 1 bolt clamp.
I got one of the two bolt ones on ebay - some the years of the DR must have had them stock. Much better than the one bolt set up.
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Old 04-03-2011, 10:44 PM   #46923
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N.dica View Post
I want my bike higher up (taller) like an XRL- was hoping the rear ricor would help that.
-New headlight/ fairing setup. Currently I'm eyeballing the lynx assembly, and the single/ double rally lights from 5- 8" and whatever fairing will work. Doesn't look like there are many fairing options if you get the dual 8" baja lights up front. Im planning on keeping a halogen setup for my lamps instead of running led or HID.
All sounds good. You may want to think about fitting custom dog bones in your shock linkage. This will raise the rear up some. The front can get a bit more complicated.

If you are building a travel bike ... be aware of the limited electrical output of the DR. 200 watts total! On a long trip having Halogen bulbs could sink you. Think HID headlight and LED for everything else.

Conserve watts wherever you can. You will need to power electric gear/grips/gloves and maybe GPS and other stuff. HID lights are very bright, use less juice than stock. +++ A dead battery in the Peruvian Alti Plano is a drag.

LED tail/brake and LED turn signal bulbs ... all saves a few watts. Lithium battery sounds good ... but a bit untested in MC's long term. I've used Lithium batts in my film sound gear for 15 years ... fantastic. But bikes are tough on batteries. (shock!) Check it out for sure.

For travel you don't really need super fancy suspension, but your springs and damping need to be adequate to handle the load you're carrying. Traveling light will be your biggest challenge. Not easy to do.

At some point, I'd do a long shake down ride to see how things are working out. Live off the bike a week or two. Once you're out of the USA some things can be hard to repair/modify or get hold of.

A basic windshield may be ugly but will do the job. Just keep in mind, in very hot/humid conditions a shield is a drag. A custom fairing is cool but might be expensive? Fragile? Breakable? Don't compromise the wiring loom in and around the headlight. Not saying you can't change things ... just think long term of wires rubbing through and stuff.
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Old 04-03-2011, 10:51 PM   #46924
garnaro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfie083188 View Post
the way i look at it, i can buy either one of these 3 setups:

Setup 1:
1. SC seat $175
2. Procycle Engine covers with skid plate (procycle brand) $150
total $325

Setup 2:
1. SC seat $175
2. the aluminum plates from that site $100
(http://www.motorcycleproducts.org/En...ds/DR650SE.htm)
3. MSR skidplate $98
4. Oil filter cover from that site: $45
total: $373
$418 with filter cover...

Setup 3:
1. SC seat: $175
2. Procycle Engine covers (Stainless steel) $90.15
3. MSR Skidplate $97.95
4. Oil filter cover from that site: $45
total: : $363.1
$408 with oil filter protection....

2 questions, first, which setup would you guys buy.second, is the oil filter cover really necessary?

i got the oil filter cover armor after i put it down at low speed on the street and knocked the filter cover off. the bolts for the stock filter cover stick out a bit and when they contacted the ground it knocked one of them straight thru the clutch cover - so I got to get a new one of those too. definitely necessary i'd say!!
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Old 04-03-2011, 11:29 PM   #46925
Paloma Paul
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clutch perch and mirror mount

clutch perch

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Unive...Q5fAccessories

add on mirror mount

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/7-8-H...Q5fAccessories

two bolt type
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Old 04-03-2011, 11:40 PM   #46926
Magnum Noel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xplorr View Post
Hi Rob,

I had wanted to see if my front end was lowered recently too. The manual shows the spacer on top of the springs in the un-lowered position. I removed the fork cap and the spacer was on top, so I assume it was not lowered. If you remove the cap and only see the spring first, you can probably infer that the spacer is down in the lowered position. Cheers, matt
Now thats what I call common sense.
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Old 04-04-2011, 02:46 AM   #46927
nii
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xracer View Post
and I stick with the OEM trailwings (call me crazy...I like em'). I run into reserve at 132 miles like clockwork, and it takes 2.4 gallons to re-fill, which comes to 55mpg by my calculations.
same with mine, bone stock, 130-131miles to reserve on the trailwings
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Old 04-04-2011, 05:08 AM   #46928
soboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nii View Post
same with mine, bone stock, 130-131miles to reserve on the trailwings
My DR's engine, gearing and gas tank are stock and I run Trailwings. I ride 60% street, 40% dirt. My riding style is moderate, I like to go asphalt dancing in the twisties and I enjoy spinning the rear tire in the dirt, but I don't spend a lot of time over 60 mph. I usually go on reserve at 142, which works out to 58 mpg. My mpg range in my 5 years of ownership has been a low of 48 (100% dirt) to a high of 69 (100% street and actually tried to get good gas mileage on that tank).
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soboy screwed with this post 04-04-2011 at 05:36 AM
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Old 04-04-2011, 06:14 AM   #46929
bkoz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paloma Paul View Post
Thanks for the links but I have had poor luck with the cheap clutch perches. I was hoping to avoid the seperate mirror mount, real estate on the bars is tight as it is.

bkoz screwed with this post 04-04-2011 at 06:51 AM
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Old 04-04-2011, 07:51 AM   #46930
Arc 21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xracer View Post
I forgot to mention that I always run 93 octane Sunoco, which I know is a waste of money in the agricultural mill that is the DR650 engine, but I spend a lot of time in traffic and it gets header-glowing hot. I sleep better knowing it's less likely to ping with the good stuff and at 55mpg, it's not going to break the bank. I also run my tires at 32psi on the rear and 30 psi on the front. I think the DR is one of those bikes that actually gets better mileage around town than on the highway.

Sounds to me like you need to richen the mixture if the header is getting cherry red you are also probably running the risk of holeing a piston or seizing the motor.
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:20 AM   #46931
Grizz Adams
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Location: Somerville, TN
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SHINKO 705's

Just a quick bit of useless information for those that care. I just finished my first set of Shinko 705's. I put a little over 6,000 miles on the set. The rear is toast, and the front is still in pretty good shape. I just ordered a replacement set, and I am changing the front as well just because for $40 it wasn't worth waiting another couple thousand miles. I run them about 5 psi more than what is stated on the swing arm for 2 up riding on pavement. They did great for the price. I am hooked.

Fortunately for me I have a second set of rims that I run my knobs on for when things get messy. But on the road and light DS riding you really can't beat these tires!

YMMV!
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:21 AM   #46932
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arc 21 View Post
Sounds to me like you need to richen the mixture if the header is getting cherry red you are also probably running the risk of holeing a piston or seizing the motor.
No, a glowing head pipe in stopped traffic is totally normal on the DR650. The pipe is single wall construction unlike most other road going motorcycles that have double wall pipes (that won't glow under normal conditions).
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:23 AM   #46933
jungleplant
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TieDowns for the Dr650

Hi all you Great guys We are starting to make TieDowns for the Suzuki DR650 and i need to ask if anybody is willing to take some measurements and test a few sets, what i need is the lower front triple tree bolt deminsions, and to see if your year model has a flat surface , i checked with bikebandit from 1990 to 2004 and they all appear to be flat , here is a picture of one on a xr650L If your interested send me a PM with your year of bike and the deminsions , and mailing address and when i get them done I will send you a set for free , for helping ok, ,mike
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:42 AM   #46934
soboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh_TN View Post
Just a quick bit of useless information for those that care. I just finished my first set of Shinko 705's. I put a little over 6,000 miles on the set. The rear is toast, and the front is still in pretty good shape. I just ordered a replacement set, and I am changing the front as well just because for $40 it wasn't worth waiting another couple thousand miles. I run them about 5 psi more than what is stated on the swing arm for 2 up riding on pavement. They did great for the price. I am hooked.

Fortunately for me I have a second set of rims that I run my knobs on for when things get messy. But on the road and light DS riding you really can't beat these tires!

YMMV!
Good info. I am considering a set of these. How do they compare on and off road to the OEM Trailwings? Did you run 5 psi over two-up pressure off road? I find the Trailwings are excellent on the street and ok on the dirt as long as I keep the tire pressures at no higher than 25F, 29R. I usually run 22F, 25R. Have not been able to get more than 2300 miles from a rear tire, though. Fronts last double that.
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Old 04-04-2011, 09:13 AM   #46935
ag_streak
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Location: At the pointy ends of the bell curve (33702)
Oddometer: 3,176
Oil Leak

Gang,

After a ride, my 2007 with 4,400 miles is showing some oil on the cooling fins on the front of the engine, near the oil cooler, just above the base gasket. It doesn't seem to leak while sitting, just riding, so the wind may be blowing the oil forward towards the front.

I checked all the usual suspects and can't find a source. Base, head, valve cover, and valve inspection plate gaskets all look dry. Oil lines, oil cooler, cam chain adjuster cover, and oil cap all check out OK.

Is the crankcase breather tube supposed to go into the bottom front of the airbox? Mine goes up under the tank, and the nipple on the bottom front of the airbox is capped off. May have been done by the previous owner. I was thinking if the crankcase was slightly overfilled, it might have been blowing excess through the tube. (oil level was at the top line in the sightglass.)

Any other ideas?

TIA...

Streak
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