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Old 03-18-2011, 06:54 AM   #211
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Inconclusive readings at best.

Odyssey reads almost 13v just off the charger. Says I'm supposed to wait 6 hours to get the real case with it. Did a couple of starts on it, and it never went lower than a fleeting show of 10. Mostly 11v. So that sounds decent for now.

At idle, the battery was showing 12.4 or 5 v, later on it warmed up to 12.8 or so at idle. kinda fluctuated.

Then at revs (like 4K) it climbed to 13.7 or 8, and stabilized, never saw 14.

So I jumped the VR and at idle it was 12.4, then spiked crazy high as soon as the charging light went off.

I guess the VR could afford to be turned up a notch, couldnt it? I'd love to see 14.2 or more at a lot closer to 4K.

I realized I spent the whole 50 miles trying to baby the motor just a little, anda not keep it wacked over 4 and 5K, which in this instance was probably not charging the battery very much, like at a minimal low 13v somehwere.

I guess I maybe owe Rick a call at Motorrad-E, to find out if maybe the VR is getting tired.


Gerbings said my heated jacket was 77w, and the headlights were 77w, and the GPS is at best 40w and the clock is what, next to nothing? and then there's charging and ignition at probably 50w altogether.

Thats still under 300w total, and the Omega should be able to handle that no problem, even at sunday cruising speeds.

So it occurs to me that the problem at Sandblast and the charging problem of two days ago are still a "not charging properly" situation, even though there are additional loads variables involved. I'm so slow on the uptake sometimes its stupid.
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Old 03-18-2011, 07:15 AM   #212
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I found that when that battery goes, it does not have the capacity that it originally had. If you get a adjustable VR from Rick, you can tweak it up to get you into the 14 volt range at say 3k.

They have a pretty good warranty on the battery. I had both replaced for just the cost of shipping. Which I then sold and bought the Westco's.

Of course it could also be the dreaded diode board!!!!! Make sure you have the new and improved one from Rick. HE HAS HAD ZERO FAILURES ON THE NEW ONE.

I just spoke to him on monday for a buddy of mine that needed to replace his old Omega diode board for the new improved one.
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Old 03-18-2011, 07:28 AM   #213
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Originally Posted by Cigars&Scotch View Post
I found that when that battery goes, it does not have the capacity that it originally had. If you get a adjustable VR from Rick, you can tweak it up to get you into the 14 volt range at say 3k.

They have a pretty good warranty on the battery. I had both replaced for just the cost of shipping. Which I then sold and bought the Westco's.

Of course it could also be the dreaded diode board!!!!! Make sure you have the new and improved one from Rick. HE HAS HAD ZERO FAILURES ON THE NEW ONE.

I just spoke to him on monday for a buddy of mine that needed to replace his old Omega diode board for the new improved one.
New and improved Diode Board? I dunno- I have the red board one, original to the set, I think. I have had a Rotor of his fail, though... just once.
I dont think I have the tweakable VR. Solid solid state. It almost seems like there's nothing wrong that I can measure, but still I keep killing batteries while riding

Thanks for the advice, though. I cant remember where I bought the Odyssey from, already :sheepish
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Old 03-18-2011, 08:22 AM   #214
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Have you replaced the bearings in your final drive yet?

Odyssey came to me used from an MRI machine, it's been in my bike since '02. Admittedly, it hasn't been used since I parked the bike Dec 31 '09. Was fine then.
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Old 03-18-2011, 08:34 AM   #215
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Have you replaced the bearings in your final drive yet?

Odyssey came to me used from an MRI machine, it's been in my bike since '02. Admittedly, it hasn't been used since I parked the bike Dec 31 '09. Was fine then.
Have not opened that can o worms up yet DId you see the video with the slop in the rear that I posted?

Still aiming for the PB300 in April and the Ontario ride on Memorial day as the next big rides, apart from commuting. I realize those arent races, but they are opportunities to tweak the reliability projects.
My friend Andrew who would technically be helping me with the FD is swamped by his own projects currently, and I have no idea how the last week and a half flew by :wtf

Seems the Odyessey are hit or miss
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Old 03-18-2011, 04:13 PM   #216
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ok well it just thickens.

I'm going to try a higher output Voltage Regulator. Found an Authority model VR at Eurotech Motorsports. Going to try that and see, since I really like the Omega system... I like how well supported it is, and honestly if I can coax it fit my style of riding I'm going to stick with it. The higher output VR should help charge the battery at a faster rate.
Speaking of charging, I've been using the small 1.25 a BAttery Tender (TM) and I notice RIck site says thats not for true Gel batteries like Odyssey. Odyssey says they are an AGM, so I'll ask Rick about that when I talk to him next week.

I might be due for one of those ignition advance map upgrades anyway, and he mentioned something about some H4 HID's that would be enormous light for the same wattage.

Regardless, I've heard it twice today that the BAttery Tenders might be cooking the Odyssey, in which case I have a half baked battery.

Long story short (too late, and no pictures :-() I still need to be able to use about 20 amps worth of power almost continuously in addition to replacing that and it aint working yet


Inspiration:


And I always thought this was cool albeit very understated:

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Old 03-19-2011, 08:41 AM   #217
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After all night off the charger, battery measured this morning at a resting 13.1v. I also unplugged the parasite BMW clock last night, too.

Seems like the battery is not too worser for the wear of the battery tenders, I guess. Am hoping High output VR and a good cleaning of the connections cures it.
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Old 03-19-2011, 11:57 AM   #218
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Old 04-11-2011, 06:18 PM   #219
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Final drive

We replaced a final drive on the cow today.
Daisy was there to supervise... she carries a big stick!

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Old 04-11-2011, 09:59 PM   #220
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A.R.T. Operations Report, stardate 12 April oh-eleven.
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Dan- Thanks for taking the time to come over today. Was a real big help to me.

SO I started out the morning with a 10:30-5 period to a) touch up the valves and the head bolts (at 100 miles or so on the new pieces) and carb synch. b) swap out a final drive with a loaner core from Anton. c) I am kind of chasing a vibration that has cropped up in the past few days. d) still monitoring charging system issues. SO far, so good.
Left hand head bolts are a little looser than right as I go from 15 to 20 to 23 pounds.
Head gasket seating in

All of them take up well. Fair enough. Plugs look great, all tan.

Valve adjustment mocks me, once again. They are tight, for a start. And they move when you set them, even if you cant feel them moving. I dunno, this is one of the first jobs I attempted on my bike when i was under 20, and I still suck at it, but I just havent come to grips with that fact yet.

DanEdg kindly lends a hand here, when I start to ping. We get them as good as it gets I guess and buttoned up and time for a carb synch. Using a Twinmax, epeatedly keep hitting "zero" when I want to hit "Sensitivity" thereby screwing up the thing, did I mention repeatedly.
I've had good luck doing this with the Bing book method of setting idle adjustment, but like everything else, I guess the carb is got some gunk issues. More on the outside than in, actually. Actually I think we got the carbs set very well, eventually. No bog off idle, and the engine idles well, and has plenty of zing, still the kind of odd routing of the cables might be a continuing problem. Clutch has almost no freeplay. Need to adjust.

Take it for a small ride around the mountain, maybe 5 miles altogether. VIbration still extant. Doesnt seem to matter if I'm pulling in the clutch. Feel it in my feet and seat and hands. Weird. Honestly feels like the motor's unbalanced, but I am distracted by loudness of the right hand cylinder. Its tappy, with a ringing quality. I am going to have to go back in there and do the valves again, I think, and this time pay attention to rocker lash, although I cant figure out why it would go out of spec on this model year, plus I have those heavy as hell Motteren Israel rocker blocks that supposedly make the whole thing quieter, but I dont quite buy it.

THe ride goes fine. Mission objective A accomplished. THere is something about it I cant quite put my finger on, some visual cue I am not quite processing yet, but otherwise I rode it all the way home, so it was a success. We get back to headquarters and back the bike in, to prepare for objective B, the final drive swap. I'm still trying to get to the Pine Barrens 300 this coming weekend, and i am really looking forward to riding my ass of in the sand.

OFF with the back wheel. OFF with the brakes and brake cable... OFF with the paralever strut, OFF with the... no hang on, leave that on, we're going to need that when we take off the inner pivot.


Hey. WHat teh hell hex key size is this?



Must be a 12, my 10 doesnt fit. Crap.

(search entire barn for anything resembling hex stock)

(Fail)

Time: 2pm. I have about 2 and a half hours before I turn into a pumpkin again and have to pick up the kid from day care.

I called every Napa and Carquest and hardware store and Lowes within a half hour radius of me. Nobody had anything bigger than a 10mm. NOWHERE to be found. I WISH I had thought to figure out I would need this.

So Dan and I hoofed it over to our friendly neighborhood scrap guy.

I got a 13mm hex key there, and hit it with a flap wheel till it fit into a 12mm socket and then hit the swingarm with the Blue Wrench.

SHortly there after we have pivot Ausdrehen, and a little while after that, we have CHEATED DEATH and gotten the loaner rear drive back on (without taking the swingarm off, Nize) and I get it back together to the point where I can take it for a spin around the yard. WHoohoo!

Blue loctite on the inboard pivot threads for now, because it'll be coming off again in a few weeks. Then we take the left side pivot up to 120Nm. The the right hand side to 7Nm, and the locknut on the right side to 120Nm. Pretty straightforward, and not at all as scary as I had made it out to be. I'm thinking its possible the whole morning valve trainwreck was because I was avoiding getting into the real project of the day.

Dan leaves, And I am Dad for a four hour break. I put the kid to bed and come back down to the barn for another round.

THEN:

I realize the charge light is not coming on when I turn the key on. It operates intermittently above the point where it should go out. I know it was working earlier today because I was watching it when i was trying to hold the rpms when Dan was doing the cable ferrules earlier. AANYWAY
I pull out my trusty Mottorad ELectrik charging bible, and surmise a blown rotor. Ground the DF terminal confirms the charge light is functional. SHorting across the sliprings also gives light, so I am still going with bad rotor, even though I cant get them to short to ground. Must be shorted internally, but its weird. This rotor has "Jan 10, '09" on it in my handwriting. I think I will be ordering a new rotor from Rick in the morning.

I notice when I am pulling hte brushes up that one of the solder joints where the brush solders to the D- side I think that the joint is loose. SO I have to pull the stator off to try and fix that. The solder wont stick to the base metal, and what a stupid way to terminate the brush leads! Why not a little longer lead, and a crimp terminal? Oy.

Objectives A and B accomplished, to the best of my ability, for now. C is inconslusive, and D has actually expanded in scope. Four days till a day in the sand, and then 4 hour highway ride home. Hoping I make it under power the whole way. THinking I should change out teh oil sometime before the 400 mile weekend. Was hoping to do about 50 miles a day till then, to continue shaking it out, but as long as shit keeps breaking on it I am grounded.

SO It has been a LONG day here. And my internet sucks bad enough that I'll insert pics of this tomorrow when I get an upload pipe worth its salt.

Sorry for the long post. Trying to get down all the details, since this is like my maintenance log, now, too.
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Old 04-12-2011, 05:27 AM   #221
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Sucks, Jason. Sorry you're having all this shit at once. If you order a new rotor, get a set of brushes with the rings, hate soldering those stupid brushes.
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Old 04-12-2011, 06:42 AM   #222
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Sucks, Jason. Sorry you're having all this shit at once. If you order a new rotor, get a set of brushes with the rings, hate soldering those stupid brushes.
Thanks Jenna, just saw some brushes on Ricks's site with some ring terminals on them <--

All at once, heh-- I kinda guess its par for the course.. I'm not exactly a maintenance freak, I dont know if you noticed. Sometimes I let things go, and ya gotta pay the piper. FOr what, Piping I guess? but he's got to get paid.
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Old 04-12-2011, 07:18 AM   #223
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Stage, risking stating the obvious...what''s the state of the driveshaft? I'd be suspicious of that regardless ether it keeps vibing when you pull in the clutch anyway.

The battery thang, of your going to buy a chargere, just spring for the Westco LS12/0.8 OptiMate 4 DUAL or LS12/0.6 OptiMate 3+ Desulfator, has you covered on all sides.
Highly reckommendo...
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Old 04-12-2011, 08:12 AM   #224
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Stage, risking stating the obvious...what''s the state of the driveshaft? I'd be suspicious of that regardless ether it keeps vibing when you pull in the clutch anyway.

The battery thang, of your going to buy a chargere, just spring for the Westco LS12/0.8 OptiMate 4 DUAL or LS12/0.6 OptiMate 3+ Desulfator, has you covered on all sides.
Highly reckommendo...
Have an HPMGuy, hard urethane, and its probably got maybe 15K miles on it? I'm beginning to get confused, since in between not maintaining it, I'm swapping out stuff regularly :lol I remember thinking I was passing the recommended 10K grease interval, and thinking "thats too soon to dig in and remove the shaft." Maybe, maybe not!

So I have another shaft to try out, one of those Emerald ones with the little suppositories for cush, so when I get the Anton-re-man'ed FD back, I'll put the new shaft in. This time, I just put the new FD on without taking off the swingarm.

Thanks for the recommendation on the charger... I will check it out.

The vibe is weird, its through the whole bike, like handlebars, pegs, and seat.

Have some cool pics, but forgot the MAc power cord, today, lol... almost out of batteries, (again!) will see if I cant scam a co-workers computer for a bit.


Looks like i'll get the rotor probably on Thursday, and leaving Friday afternoon, after a half day of work. Never a dull moment!
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Old 04-12-2011, 08:19 AM   #225
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I've been reading of your charging woes and it occurred to me that you may be thinking that the Omega system is producing close to max output at 4000 rpm. The output may be considerably less at that rpm. Perhaps check with Rick to confirm.

You could try turning off your heated gear and see what the voltage output goes to. Just a thought. Bill.
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