the DR200 thread

[Sprig]

Originally Posted by bross

Here you go, pretty close ...

Whoaa! Damn COOL!

However...

YOU forgot to add the link to how many WWII tanks could be pulled with that ratio... ... ... :

[acif]

Originally Posted by HeReTiK

Looking to do more dirt this summer than usual. Would would be the best wheely-poppin sprocket ratio?

you dont need to go to extremes like those described before, with a ratio like the one that the farm version of the dr200 have, you can suffice your necesities.

rear sprocket 47 T (64511-42A10)
front sprocket 12 T (27511-19A01)
you can reuse the old chain without altering it.

with this ratio, 2nd becomes like 1st with the 45/15 ratio.
top speed is about 75 km/h

p.s. i have a spare set because i use mi agricultural dr200 mostly for conmute.

[bross]

I can't imagine the DR200 with a lower 1st gear, you almost have to shift out of first before the front wheel has completed a revolution.

[acif]

Originally Posted by bross

I can't imagine the DR200 with a lower 1st gear, you almost have to shift out of first before the front wheel has completed a revolution.

when my bike was geared with the 47/12, i used to think that i have a 4 speed gearbox with a very short 1st.

[acif]

does anyone have a solution for the crapy front brake?

does anyone have ordered a stainless steel braided line like that:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GALFE...Q5fAccessories

how much brake power can i gain with it?

[tbolt]

Originally Posted by acif

how much brake power can i gain with it?

100 million kilojoules!

My experience with stainless lines is that they don't increase power. Rather, they increase the "feel" of the brake. A more progressive, confident feel allows you to squeeze harder and stop sooner.

[Conman]

DG O Series Slip on for DR200?
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...Id=435452&mmy=

Just saw this in 2011 Dennis Kirk offroad catalog(page 414). Says it's a DR200/SE 90-99 but I don't see why it won't fit the 2000+ models.
DK is selling this for 179.99 which is way cheaper than the FMF Q. Who's going to take a chance on this one?

Con

Originally Posted by Conman

I have an 2001 and it fits with no issues.

My mod posts:
FMF Exhaust:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...7#post12575197
outwear airbox lid mod:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...5#post13000045
MT21 tires:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...3#post13058833
9.99 handle bars and handguards:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...7#post12519417

[FLCBRXX]

Guys, I hate to bring this up, but am in dire need. Been looking and searching for the last 2 nights and deceided to finally ask.

I can't seem to find a manual for this thing anywhere.

Guy brings this 1986 DR200 and it dosen't run past 1/4 throttle and starts cutting out.

I pull the carb and find this.



Main jet broken and ground down and then the A/P plunger and spring missing.

Everything has been replaced and carb rebuilt. Pilot at 2 turns and bike fired up on first kick. Seems to rev better now with new plunger...but anything above 1/4 throttle still cuts out...pulled plug and black and sooty (very rich) clip position in 3rd from top

Have tried everything I can think of...any clues as to the problem

Thanks in advance

[Sateev]

Not sure what you are referring to as the 'A/P plunger', but if it's running way rich, I would check the float level, and, especially, the float needle/seat/o-ring.

Also, so we are on the same page, the pilot jet is the small jet, just above the main jet in your picture. It is not adjustable (although it can be changed for a different size). The '2 turns' you are referring to is the fuel screw, external to the bowl, and just out of view at the top of your picture.

Looking closely at your picture, and comparing my carb, it appears you have something different than mine. If it's a 1986 model, perhaps it is the earlier Mikuni (non-CV), and the 'A/P plunger' is an accelerator pump plunger? If so, you have me at a loss, because, if I remember correctly, that carb was discontinued in favor of the CV model after a year or two.

Maybe another member has more info about the earlier carb.

The needle/seat/o-ring should be inspected, anyway, as part of any carb service.

Hope someone will have better info for you.

Good luck.

[FLCBRXX]

Originally Posted by Sateev

Not sure what you are referring to as the 'A/P plunger', but if it's running way rich, I would check the float level, and, especially, the float needle/seat/o-ring.

Also, so we are on the same page, the pilot jet is the small jet, just above the main jet in your picture. It is not adjustable (although it can be changed for a different size). The '2 turns' you are referring to is the fuel screw, external to the bowl, and just out of view at the top of your picture.

Looking closely at your picture, and comparing my carb, it appears you have something different than mine. If it's a 1986 model, perhaps it is the earlier Mikuni (non-CV), and the 'A/P plunger' is an accelerator pump plunger? If so, you have me at a loss, because, if I remember correctly, that carb was discontinued in favor of the CV model after a year or two.

Maybe another member has more info about the earlier carb.

The needle/seat/o-ring should be inspected, anyway, as part of any carb service.

Hope someone will have better info for you.

Good luck.

Right, Needle/seat/o-ring was replaced along with main jet. Pilot was still good.

It is a Mikuni flatslide carb...stocker for that year..should be a BST31

Would like to know the float level, That's the only other thing I can think of too.

Carb was in really decent shape except for all the jerry rigging that they did.

The plunger is the accelorator pump by the way

thanks

[Sateev]

Looked in my manual, but it only covers the BST31SS CV carb.

I bet a bunch of guys would rather have the flatslide carb, and maybe someone will have an older manual that specifies the float height, which is 13mm +/- 1mm for the CV carb.

Hope someone will help more.

[Trailrider200]

Originally Posted by acif

does anyone have a solution for the crapy front brake?

does anyone have ordered a stainless steel braided line like that:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GALFE...Q5fAccessories

how much brake power can i gain with it?

the OEM pad is an organic pad with a G friction rating.
going to a sintered metalic pad with a HH rating will greatly lower stopping distance. this is of course if u do not lock up the front wheel now by overcoming the tire to road surface friction coefficient. an experienced rider should have no problem, but these bikes are geared towards beginners and dirt use, hence the weaker pads to reduce front wheel lockup.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_stainlesssteel_Q&A.shtml
"A woven braid of Stainless Steel, however, can greatly increase the rigidity of the hose under pressure while still allowing adequate flexibility for wheel end movement. In many cases, this reduced expansion can be felt by the driver as a firmer or more responsive brake pedal.
In addition, the reduced compliance will result in a faster transient response of the brake system. In other words, the time from the driver hitting the brake pedal until deceleration is generated will be decreased by a small amount. The benefit will vary based on each individual application, but in general overall deceleration can be attained more quickly, resulting in slightly shorter stopping distances."

[wardie]

I just noticed that when I turn my ignition key on the headlight or taillight doesn't come on? It's never done that before always coming on with key to "on".

This is a kick start only model so it has a small battery for lighhting. Battery voltage reads 12.58 static.

When I kick start the bike the headlight comes on and gets brighter with increased RPM's. The battery voltage remains constant regardless of the RPM's ??

Any ideas why the headlight isn't coming on with key and why no higher voltages are shown when motor is revved?

Wardie

[Sateev]

Think you're in the wrong place, Wardie. The DR250S has very little in common with the DR200.

Hopefully, someone will have some info for you, but you probably need to expand your search a bit.

Other than your current problem, how do you like the 250?

[ThomasVolomitz]

Just took the Ohio MSF course this weekend. It was more intense than I thought it would be. There were twelve of us in the class. Only 1 DR200, some nighthawks, TW200's and some Suzuki GZ250's. I scrambled to grab the DR200 and took the entire twelve hour riding course on it and it didn't let me down at all.

The TW200's were great bikes too, but since I was familiar with the DR's I went with that. Sad, though, the class bike only has 1200 miles, a busted taillight, many scrapes and scratches and no mirrors. By the way, no damage from me!