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Old 02-26-2011, 08:53 AM   #16
Disco Dean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTCOliverNorth View Post
How much was your set of Wheels?

The quote I got from Woody - which was a few months ago (still saving for them) was $1900 dollars for two rims, 21 + 17 inch, Stainless spokes, billet hubs, all flanges and hardware and Excel's - no rotors.

Coloured rims cost an additional $150 bucks - hubbs in blue, black, silver, gold etc....

If I am correct that means - the TWO Woody's rims complete cost just $500 more than a single OEM rim as the front and back OEM cost $2500 new.

And they are much more sweet - whatever colour you want.

I'll be ordering those in early summer!!!!
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Old 02-26-2011, 08:59 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco Dean View Post
The quote I got from Woody - which was a few months ago (still saving for them) was $1900 dollars for two rims, 21 + 17 inch, Stainless spokes, billet hubs, all flanges and hardware and Excel's - no rotors.

Interesting. I just got a ballpark figure from him, and for billet hubs superlaced onto 21x1.6 and 18x2.5 A60 Excel rims with Galfer Wave rotors he said around $2000. I hope mine is more right than yours, those Galfers are expensive!
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Old 02-26-2011, 09:05 AM   #18
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21 conversion

Ijust ordered the 21 inch from woodies ,the wheel will be here tues.Asfar as needing it rufully I dont think so. I ride my 1150 in beach sand and florida swamp with a 19, I bent my front wheel and it needed to be trued or replaced ,woodies price was the same for both so ,like owning a 4wheel drive why no go big.these bikes will go anywhere your skill will take you ,pervided you dont use street tires...at all i will let you all know how much differance the 21 is next weekend ,hopefully some clay, gravel, mud ,and florida white beach sand
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Old 02-26-2011, 09:35 AM   #19
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Fyi,,,

just ran across this thread,,,

noticed that you all are comparing prices etc ,,please make sure you are comparing apples to apples,,,and tit for tat,,,because there can be a several hundred dollar spread on a wheelset based on new/ used componetry,,,how much we can recycle from your old wheels ,,,the different color combos,,nipples used and so on....not o mention the price increases on 1/1/11

here's the difference between superlite 21





and oem hubbed ,tubeless 21 x-laced wheel[this actually off an1100GS same idea]



or oem hubbed conversion to regular rims using Monzter spokes







and here's some links with pics n stories:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=592717&page=3

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=594117

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=521129&
page=5

hope that helps a little
woody

PS,,,,i read your comments that i've done the TAT,,the Alcan..the pipe-line road etc,,,on 19/17s,,,good lordy,,i know it can be done on honda 50's too,,,,the consistent,overwhelming feed-back that has been posted,,,,is that doing the same on a 21 front made it sooo much easier and enjoyable,,,

and i will add that the addition of a steering stabilizer will ramp up your enjoyment factor another big notch,,,and that's speaking from experience

Please do not construe that it is a must add-on to use with a 21'',,,the steering dampener enhances any of your front wheel configurations..more on that here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=606689

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...596803&page=18
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Old 04-28-2011, 08:07 AM   #20
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so what's the verdict????

Quote:
Originally Posted by bzrider View Post
Ijust ordered the 21 inch from woodies ,the wheel will be here tues.Asfar as needing it rufully I dont think so. I ride my 1150 in beach sand and florida swamp with a 19, I bent my front wheel and it needed to be trued or replaced ,woodies price was the same for both so ,like owning a 4wheel drive why no go big.these bikes will go anywhere your skill will take you ,pervided you dont use street tires...at all i will let you all know how much differance the 21 is next weekend ,hopefully some clay, gravel, mud ,and florida white beach sand
do they live up to the hype???
i and others are curious

woody
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........If you're lost???... GPS = 39*40'33.86N x 104*59'54.69W
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Old 04-28-2011, 09:58 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woody's wheel works View Post
do they live up to the hype???
i and others are curious

woody
+2..

Inquiring minds want to know....
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Old 04-28-2011, 07:26 PM   #22
bzrider
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up date woody's wheels

Quote:
Originally Posted by woody's wheel works View Post
do they live up to the hype???
i and others are curious

woody
I have had the 21 conversion on the gs for about 6,000 miles . I average around 150 miles offroad every weekend and 500 commuting .First if you don't ride with knobs (tkc or other)please dont comment this isn't a dirt bike , it is an enduro and a good one ( just not for dirt noobs). I dont hot rod alot on the pavement because i ride only tkc80s . I ride only tubeless because I commute every day and this is my only transportation.,I don't trust tubes at 80 mph for long distances .The 21 to me feels no differant on the pavement ,it made my speedo acurate with my gps. OFFROAD it is un believably differant . It absorbes rocks .roots washouts alot better . As for the sand , and ruts its hands down differant. thanks woody. this is the way this great motorcycle should have been made.


























thanks again woody the wheel is great , best upgade i have made
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Old 04-29-2011, 08:37 PM   #23
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if you really like offroad these wheels are great
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Old 04-29-2011, 08:54 PM   #24
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Greta pics and info Woody. How hard is it to just take stock wheels and convert them to accept tubes? I always thought it would be good to have tubes as they are easier to repair/replace on the roadside.
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Old 04-29-2011, 10:43 PM   #25
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how easy is it to convert fro tubeless to tubes????

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyCap View Post
Greta pics and info Woody. How hard is it to just take stock wheels and convert them to accept tubes? I always thought it would be good to have tubes as they are easier to repair/replace on the roadside.
hey andy it's friggin easier than ya think

if you have tubeless already and ya want tubes....well then

1..if you have rims that are like the oem genuine tubeless set-up ala the X-laced wheels on your GS...just remove the valve stem and use a tube in it 's place ,,,end of story

2,,if you have modified ie sealed wheels ,,,well ya just do the same thing,,,remove the valve stem and install a tube,,don't even need to install a rim band because the sealant used acts like a rim band on steroids

it's that simple

woody
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Old 04-30-2011, 12:28 AM   #26
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Woody -

Thanks man. Are there any detractors to using a tube? I mean, it seems to me it would be a lot easier to fix a flat with tubes. PROs/CONs?

BTW - yes, I am saving up to get a set of your wheels some time next year hopefully.
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Old 04-30-2011, 06:11 AM   #27
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well the thing: a tyre without tube you can put a tube in when having a flat if you already have a tube you have to fix both.
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Old 04-30-2011, 09:10 AM   #28
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''detractors'' to using a tube,,,,,

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyCap View Post
Woody -

Thanks man. Are there any detractors to using a tube?

for starters,,,i will limit this answer to nail/thorn type punctures,,ie the cause of most of our flat tires.....most other scenarios would need a tube or patching the tube to repair the flat.

the engineers would say that heat build-up in the tire,,,extra un-sprung weight,,,extra time n $$$ to repair a flat ,,,not to mention extra $$$ for the tube are the main detractors.

Sooo,,,since i am essentially a lazy sort of guy it comes down to how much time and energy a task takes away from the more pleasureable pursuits in life... in this case riding my motorcycle and making progress versus sweating my ass off and busting knuckles having to yank a wheel of the bike,,R&Ring the tire and then the tube ,,,then patching the tube [and if ya want to do it really right you shoud put a T-patch in the tire too,,,to keep the puntured area in the tire from chaffing your tube and invariably wearing a hole into it again]
....time spent = 15-60minutes
energy spent = IMHO tooooo much


VS...

finding the nail or thorn,,,marking the spot,,,removing the offending item,,,pulling out your plug repair kit ,,prepping the area,,,inserting a plug and airing back up again.
...time spent = 5-10minutes
energy spent = minimal


I mean, it seems to me it would be a lot easier to fix a flat with tubes. PROs/CONs?
it all depends on what caused the flat to begin with,,hence i recommend using beefy tubes for spares when doing adventure riding off road,,,they can cover more serious damages to your tire .

BTW - yes, I am saving up to get a set of your wheels some time next year hopefully.attaboy,,ya have good taste
OBTW,,,i really like your use of that word 'detractors',,has a certain ring to it

hope that helped ya..
woody
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........If you're lost???... GPS = 39*40'33.86N x 104*59'54.69W

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Old 04-30-2011, 09:31 AM   #29
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Helped quite a bit - thanks to both of you.

The conclusion - I will go tubeless, but carry a spare tube on those long remote rides just in case.
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Old 04-30-2011, 06:03 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyCap View Post
Helped quite a bit - thanks to both of you.

The conclusion - I will go tubeless, but carry a spare tube on those long remote rides just in case.
go tubeless its the way to go ....
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