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Old 05-14-2011, 08:05 PM   #91
blaine.hale OP
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Progress!
I got the jug back today. Beautiful 55% semi-gloss black :)
Couldn't be more happy with the results! I do, however need to get some slight over spray on the gasket surfaces. What grit paper do ya'll recommend for resurfacing? (If that is recommended)

The crank case halves are polished and I put the transmission assembly back in. Have one more bearing to get in and I can make big progress.
Those crank shaft bearings just fall on when you get the right temperatures!
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Old 05-15-2011, 05:53 AM   #92
PSchrauber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaine.hale View Post
Progress!
I got the jug back today. Beautiful 55% semi-gloss black :)
Couldn't be more happy with the results! I do, however need to get some slight over spray on the gasket surfaces. What grit paper do ya'll recommend for resurfacing? (If that is recommended)

The crank case halves are polished and I put the transmission assembly back in. Have one more bearing to get in and I can make big progress.
Those crank shaft bearings just fall on when you get the right temperatures!
Mmmh, which surface do you mean:

- gasket surface to the main motor housing, (I would not recommend to to anything there, beside a control look, placing the halfs of the mtor housing on a mirror if you have doubts)
I would take the normal gasket and if there are some places if there are gaps, (from former deassemblings or so ...) take this http://www.gearparts24.de/flaechendi...rth:a3655.html if it is really necessary.

The gasket surfaces are very holy to me, I don't touch them, even not when deassembling, just cleaning that's all.

Sidecovers can have silly marks from preowners, there I once had to take away riges of a heavy dented and cracked sidecover. I filled the gap with HT (high temperature) knead metal and aligned the filling with a cutter blade.




PSchrauber screwed with this post 05-15-2011 at 06:07 AM
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Old 05-15-2011, 07:37 AM   #93
LasseNC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaine.hale View Post
Progress!
I got the jug back today. Beautiful 55% semi-gloss black :)
Couldn't be more happy with the results! I do, however need to get some slight over spray on the gasket surfaces. What grit paper do ya'll recommend for resurfacing? (If that is recommended)

The crank case halves are polished and I put the transmission assembly back in. Have one more bearing to get in and I can make big progress.
Those crank shaft bearings just fall on when you get the right temperatures!
I think scotchbrite is awesome for finishing up gasket surfaces.

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Old 05-15-2011, 07:48 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaine.hale View Post






My aperture was way to high for the light I was shooting in so it ruined everything. made everything look great
*Fixt* Makes yr D700 look like an old Kodak Suits the bike

Killer score, man.
Great to see all the original tags, manual etc, I love sh*t like that.
Just catching-up on the whole thread now...
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Old 05-15-2011, 09:28 AM   #95
blaine.hale OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motojournalism View Post
*Fixt* Makes yr D700 look like an old Kodak Suits the bike

Killer score, man.
Great to see all the original tags, manual etc, I love sh*t like that.
Just catching-up on the whole thread now...
Thanks mate! Those photos were with my 35mm manual focus vintage lens (I forget how old.) It's my absolute favorite on the d7000 but being that it's all manual and I shoot manual mode, I kept forgetting to set aperture =/

As to the above re-surfacing answer: Wes ran the crank case surfaces over glass and cleaned them, thats about it. The surfaces I'm referring to are the cylinder to head and cylinder to crank case where the powder coat had over spray. I'm think scotch brite may be able to get it off but I don't know if it's abrasive enough to remove powder coat. There's enough for me to worry about it causing a leak.
I'll post pictures later today.
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Old 05-15-2011, 11:26 AM   #96
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Anyone want to check my work on the transmission? Everything lifted and switched as I expected when I turned the tumbler/gear selector. Neutral felt like neutral as it didn't lift and of the gear selector arms. Also, here's the newly coated cylinder and some of the over spray I was referring to.





















All I gather from this is that I need to pressure wash my porch.
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Old 05-15-2011, 11:45 AM   #97
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Hey Blaine, we missed you at the spring fling. The Bull looks great!
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Old 05-15-2011, 11:48 AM   #98
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Hey Blaine, we missed you at the spring fling. The Bull looks great!
I thought it was supposed to rain and my chore list was a mile high...quite frankly, I'm pissed of that I'm not there!
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Old 05-15-2011, 12:29 PM   #99
PSchrauber
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Really nice work, indeed.

No issues visable on first sight, is your head mounted with or without a
headgaskrt?

My bike did not have amy, older ones - but not so old as yours - had a
copper gasket.

Very interesting for me too, you have "omly" have 6 fasteners, the newer
ones had 8, (4 bolts 14 mm and 6 screws M13), with a fixed sequence
which to get loose first abd which had to thighten first, ... (you have to
switch frm 13 to 14 ... all the time, ... very time-consuming.



If you have a gasket, try to use a very sharp cutter blade and carfully
plane the exessive color away.

To plane the cylinderhead , the cylinder om top or base or parts of it
should IMHO not be done by hand, no grinding, no self milling by hand.
To plane the head or the cylinder it is a job that has to be done by a
machine.

BTW:
I am too a little bit jaleaus about the good status of your gear selector
and tumbler, mine where broken and it took a lot of time to find a new
replacement one.

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Old 05-15-2011, 02:41 PM   #100
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this bike is going to look awesome. Even if it doesn't, the photography will make up for it. Great job, man! Can't wait to hear it run!
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Old 05-17-2011, 09:51 AM   #101
blaine.hale OP
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Quick question. Would it be wise to buy new rings or a new piston and rings kit?
$30 - rings (74mm bore)
$75 - Piston, rings, cir-clip, wrist pin (74mm bore)

My cylinder is 250cc, 1st over on the bore. I measured it at an average of 74mm inner diameter last night, pre-honing. Will honing it increase that any (I have my own tool to hone.)
There doesn't appear to be any blow by or bad marks on the current piston so I'm leaning towards just new rings to keep well under budget with this clean up.
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Old 05-17-2011, 11:20 AM   #102
stainlesscycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaine.hale View Post
The surfaces I'm referring to are the cylinder to head
you can lap the head to cylinder surface in with lapping compound. takes a while, but makes a perfect surface.
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Old 05-17-2011, 11:23 AM   #103
stainlesscycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaine.hale View Post
Quick question. Would it be wise to buy new rings or a new piston and rings kit?
$30 - rings (74mm bore)
$75 - Piston, rings, cir-clip, wrist pin (74mm bore)

My cylinder is 250cc, 1st over on the bore. I measured it at an average of 74mm inner diameter last night, pre-honing. Will honing it increase that any (I have my own tool to hone.)
There doesn't appear to be any blow by or bad marks on the current piston so I'm leaning towards just new rings to keep well under budget with this clean up.
depending on who made the piston, i would go with a whole new piston.rings etc. $75 is cheap.... i paid $150 for 200cc piston last month...
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Old 05-17-2011, 02:15 PM   #104
PSchrauber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stainlesscycle View Post
depending on who made the piston, i would go with a whole new piston.rings etc. $75 is cheap.... i paid $150 for 200cc piston last month...
Yep, best way to do so, I probably haven't anderstood blaine.hale right, but he want to hone the cylinder an leave the old piston? (But maybe me english have some limits )
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Old 05-19-2011, 04:46 AM   #105
buls4evr
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Looks good so far. One of the difficult parts yet to come is that fiberglass(if you want to call it that) original tank. They leaked BRAND NEW right at the first gas fill in 68! My advice would be a new one or a plastic replacement. Do not spend money on a paint job then find out that it leaks like a sieve! A nice project going so far and you have the right attitude about restorations. Prices can get stupid only if you let them. Very few people know correct anyway and you just don't say "original" if it's not. But most don't care. They see your practicality. That was a good tip on moving the condensor into the open and doubling all the grounds too. I would add to put stover or nylock nuts on parts you don't want to fall off. Have fun. I look forward to this thread.
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