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Old 05-17-2011, 12:55 PM   #61
supershaft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmweuro View Post
60k is a lot compared to 70k- 90k for a new one. The running like crap, noise and chewing itself up only comes from a badly worn chain not from worn gears.

With all of this said ride it for 6 to 10 years and worry about it later unless your putting 20k a year on your bike,
You might add unless you want your bike to run right and sound right for longer than a season or two.

A badly worn chain and not from worn gears? You absolutely cannot have one without the other. One half of that setup is just as important as the other half in theory and practice.

But doing a half ass job does sometimes save you some money and work and it will get you down the road in this case. The ignition timing bouncing all over the place matters little to some that seem to be happy with it running and rattling down the road just good enough. Some airheads are proud of the fact that their engine sounds like someone shaking a rattle can of spray paint and yet somehow still runs . . . barely. Nothing at all wrong with that as long as they don't start blaming the machine for their own ways. It's just not my style and I recommend otherwise.
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Old 05-17-2011, 08:25 PM   #62
Hawk Medicine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Dog View Post
...INTERESTING READ....(caps off)

2 reasons I'm doing this,
(1) The leaking timing cover
(2) The jumpity timing mark when I look in there with a timing light.

I'm convinced that the PO(s?) F'd around with this bike in a less than knowledgable if not hamfisted manner.
God help me when I have to look inside the driveline...
Well, you can't blame me!

We never cracked the case or swapped the chain. No need to fix what ain't broken and we never had a problem with the timing!
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Old 05-18-2011, 04:33 AM   #63
Beemerboff
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Cycleworks now has a neat, but pricey, puller kit which pulls the case, bearing and sprocket, and then presses them back on.

Nice if you dont like bashing the end of the crank with a lump hammer.
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Old 05-18-2011, 07:13 AM   #64
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....my case came off easily with the tap of a wooden dowel on each side. No problem there.
I'll be curious to see how the gear R&R goes...
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Old 05-18-2011, 12:49 PM   #65
wirewrkr
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Okay, for those of you that want to do the sprocket on the crank, here is a very cheap tool for the job,
It's a power steering pulley puller that I got at NAPA for $29.00
I have since seen it elsewhere for half of that.
It works on both styles
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Old 05-18-2011, 02:24 PM   #66
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clearanceclarence

....nice! Good input.
I suspect you'd have to remove the front wheel and fender for clearance?
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Old 05-18-2011, 02:45 PM   #67
tony the tiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Dog View Post
....nice! Good input.
I suspect you'd have to remove the front wheel and fender for clearance?
I know I did! Different puller, same principle...
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Old 05-29-2011, 09:01 AM   #68
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Like New!

...well all you FFs will be glad to know you wre right.
I had the timing chain and crank gear (only) replaced and now have a nice legible timing mark.
Add another $400 to this red bitch's build.
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Old 05-29-2011, 09:06 AM   #69
Rob Farmer
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I swapped a crankshaft sprocket yesterday. A standard three legged puller with an air impact wrench had it straight off. The pulses from the impact wrench give a nice smooth pull. Dropped the new sprocket in hot engine oil to warm it through evenly and it went straight on with just a gentle tap to seat it.
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Old 08-08-2012, 02:18 AM   #70
Padmei
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishkens View Post
Here's a question: So why didn't BMW provide a spec for a worn chain or timing sprocket (per Clymers)?

It seems that we're entirely on our own when a fairly simple gauge (for sprockets) or spec for chain length could be provided (even bicyclists seem to have invented better guidelines for replacing these components).

Certainly, symptoms (noise, shaky timing marks, etc.) can indicate a need for a replacement but specs would help.

Just curious if anyone has any insights.

Just dragging this up again as it's my job for this week. I was asking myself this question today.

Here's my sprockets. I was wondering whether to replace the crank sprocket before I started reading this thread however I guess a new one is something i won't have to replace again. Thanks to all those sharing knowledge that has made my decision easier

here's mine.





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Old 08-08-2012, 05:33 AM   #71
Lornce
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They're cheap and the timing/running benefits are dramatic.

It's a no-brainer.

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Old 12-05-2012, 05:33 AM   #72
hardwaregrrl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wirewrkr View Post
Okay, for those of you that want to do the sprocket on the crank, here is a very cheap tool for the job,
It's a power steering pulley puller that I got at NAPA for $29.00
I have since seen it elsewhere for half of that.
It works on both styles
for keeps

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Old 12-05-2012, 07:18 AM   #73
Beater
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Thanks Robert

Quote:
Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl View Post
for keeps

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