New Owners - Stupid Questions Thread

[T.O.Adv]

Just bought a stock 2011 bike and I want to put on crash bars, a bash plate and TC-80 without paying dealership prices . Any suggestions for products and pricing in the GTA? I live right downtown Toronto....

Thanks!

[FrozenViking]

Since this is a stupid question thread ...

What is the black flexible plastic pipe the red arrow is pointing to?



I've traced it back as far as I can, before it dissapears:



Is it some kind of drain pipe?

[Fronnzy]

Originally Posted by FrozenViking

Since this is a stupid question thread ...

What is the black flexible plastic pipe the red arrow is pointing to?

Is it some kind of drain pipe?

Thats your fuel vent hose.

[grndzr0]

Originally Posted by T.O.Adv

Just bought a stock 2011 bike and I want to put on crash bars, a bash plate and TC-80 without paying dealership prices . Any suggestions for products and pricing in the GTA? I live right downtown Toronto....

Thanks!

My dealer actually got me that stuff for very good prices. since I bought the bike there, I got a percentage off of accessories. My helmet I got cheaper than I could find it anywhere else, as with the crashbars and barkbusters. The just got that stuff from twisted throttle and then I got a discount off of that.

[FrozenViking]

Originally Posted by Fronnzy

Thats your fuel vent hose.

Groovy. Thanks.

[LukasM]

Originally Posted by T.O.Adv

Just bought a stock 2011 bike and I want to put on crash bars, a bash plate and TC-80 without paying dealership prices . Any suggestions for products and pricing in the GTA? I live right downtown Toronto....

Thanks!

Don't get that stuff from BMW, there are much better aftermarket items.

IMO, Mod or Adv Spec bash plate, SW-Motech or Adv Spec crash bars.

[grndzr0]

Originally Posted by LukasM

Don't get that stuff from BMW, there are much better aftermarket items.

IMO, Mod or Adv Spec bash plate, SW-Motech or Adv Spec crash bars.

Yea, I didn't buy any of the BMW stuff, I got swmotech bars, and barkbusters through my dealer for a good price.

[nat_han]

anyone has any opinion on the ROX risers for the F800GS?


will it cause the handlebar to 'lose control' twisting front and back whilst riding due to a lack of 'friction'?


worried about the contact points at the bar clamp area... my mechanic is quite against this product... saying it increases riding risk...

thanks!

[machinebuilder]

Originally Posted by nat_han

anyone has any opinion on the ROX risers for the F800GS?


will it cause the handlebar to 'lose control' twisting front and back whilst riding due to a lack of 'friction'?


worried about the contact points at the bar clamp area... my mechanic is quite against this product... saying it increases riding risk...

thanks!

I've been using them for about a year, never had them slip. there is a thread about them on an ABS equiped bike and a shorter model for it.

I don't have ABS and have the 30mm's. be carefull with the cable and hose routing so it doesn't start to bind at steering lock.

[nat_han]

Originally Posted by machinebuilder

I've been using them for about a year, never had them slip. there is a thread about them on an ABS equiped bike and a shorter model for it.

I don't have ABS and have the 30mm's. be carefull with the cable and hose routing so it doesn't start to bind at steering lock.

have been to that thread to read up before buying one...

i've the 1 3/4" rise x 1 1/8" Stem Clamp x 1 1/8" Handlebar version...

already shifted my brake perch inner a couple of mm to the left due to the fitting of the Kaoko cruise control, and i also have fitted the wunderlich 20mm bar risers few years back...

my 800gs comes with ABS, hence, wondering if by installing this set of risers, i'll have to

1) change to a longer brake hose due to the maximum shifted position of the brake perch that is giving the most slack available already(it narrowly touches the mounting clam of my OEM hand guard!)... or just trying to reverse the brake line position(like what immate "drrags" has done)... but am worried about this procedure- the bleeding of the brake fluids, possible complications in doing this...

2) remove my exisiting 20mm wunderlich risers i currently have on the bike to compensate for brake/throttle cable slackness.. thereby enabling me to use the ROX...

hmmm...

[soph9]

to be on the safe side...get ride of the 20mm risers, should not need them with the ROX...and get a longer brake cable....

[nat_han]

Originally Posted by soph9

to be on the safe side...get ride of the 20mm risers, should not need them with the ROX...and get a longer brake cable....

hey soph9!

thanks for the input of thoughts... =)

most prob will head in this direction...
my friend actually mentioned to me that another way is to change the handle bar to those higher bend ones... WRP/TAG/etc...
but since i've already gotten the ROX... kinda makes no sense to sell and buy all over again.

is the bleeding of the brake hose easy? conventional method? just bleed from the point of removal or do i have to bleed through the whole system after changing just the 1st hose at the handlebar area?

[HighFive]

Bleeding the brakes is not hard, just takes time....be patient and approach it methodically. It is always wise to bleed the "whole system" when you change a hose. Air could get trapped anywhere (above or below your junction. So, I'd recommend you gravity bleed downward to fill the new line. Then, bleed upward (pumping oil in from the bottom bleeder at the caliper....all the way to the top.

I flush mine both directions several times, until I see no more air bubbles at all anywhere. Then, go ride it a while. Bleed it again. Ride....bleed it again. Sometimes this is what it takes, unless you have one of those fancy high-dollar vacuum bleeding machines....what I've never had the chance to try out.

HF

p.s. DOT 4 on the F800.

p.s.s. Special Note: there is a tiny bleeder valve up on the brake lever perch which allows you to bleed the air form the piston pump chamber. This is wonderful addition. I didn't notice it at first, and had a hard time regaining my brake pressure after changing a line. After discovering this little outlet, and bleeding up thru it as well, VOILA, brake pressure returned.

[kerji]

Hi guys,

I am right down at Singapore, (a tiny dot of an island at the bottom of Malaysia)
Just got my brand new F8GS yesterday and I didnt get to read any user manual so i was wondering is there a need for a running-in like the other bikes?

if a running-in's required, just wanted to see how you guys run in your GS...

[Wildman]

I'll get this.

BMW advise to keep it below 5,000 rpm for the first 600 miles and to vary your riding i.e. don't do 600 miles of highway, mix it up a bit.

There was a debate a while back about whether the "below 5,000 rpm" was necessary as some consider it's better to ride it like a hooligan from day one. You choose.

Welcome to the site and enjoy your F800GS.