ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 05-25-2011, 01:24 PM   #49456
maxicardi
Professional BODGER
 
Joined: May 2011
Location: Antwerpen, the Lowlands
Oddometer: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
DR650 RS -- What year is it?

Have you checked your airbox. Excess crankcase pressure or improper crankcase breather hose routing could cause it to be pushed into the box.
Could be caused by overfilling -- not saying yours is but I think that could be a cause of excess pressure.
Good luck
The bike is a 1990 DR RS, kickstarter only. Breather hose is OK, routing also...moderate quantity of oil in the airbox (it's just "greasy"). Surely not the amount I'm missing...
I'm using Castrol GPS 10w40...maybe too thin???
A Belgian Beer for the one who solves this puzzle
maxicardi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2011, 01:48 PM   #49457
NordieBoy
Armature speller
 
NordieBoy's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,073
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxicardi View Post
The bike is a 1990 DR RS, kickstarter only. Breather hose is OK, routing also...moderate quantity of oil in the airbox (it's just "greasy"). Surely not the amount I'm missing...
I'm using Castrol GPS 10w40...maybe too thin???
A Belgian Beer for the one who solves this puzzle
Clean the airbox and go for a ride. See if any oil makes it's way back in...
NordieBoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2011, 02:57 PM   #49458
kimber45
I'm over it.
 
kimber45's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Clay,MI
Oddometer: 699
Quote:
Originally Posted by pjensen641 View Post
Gear is the important question here. At 20-30 mph you shouldn't be any higher than 3rd with stock gearing. Otherwise you are most likely lugging the engine. Lugging is really bad for any engine. With the DR you get lots of cyclic loading of the tranny at low RPM, probably one of the causes of the 3rd gear blow-ups. I'm pretty sure Procycle said it best a while back (and I paraphrase) The DR engine is a midrange engine. Many people mistake the term thumper for something you can just put in high gear and barely thump along...not true at all.

I personally don't use 4th gear until 35+ and 5th gear at 45+, even then I need to down shift to prevent excessive chain slap and chattering of the gearbox if I need power. When accelerating I normally shift to 4th at 40 and 5th at 50+. This is with a properly set up FCR-MX.
well not sure now but i would say i was in 3rd. if this darn rain ever stops i'll pay closer attention.

you know now that you mention it i may be hearing chain slap. that's sorta what it sounds like.

thanks for the info.
kimber45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2011, 03:37 PM   #49459
Tech23
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Tech23's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Arizona Desert
Oddometer: 458
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapp22 View Post
Putting out a feeler here...
A DR friend popped by one day and one of the farkles he had was a one-off [I GUESS... if you know otherwise, speakup] aluminum mounting plate to take the Turnsignal/Neutral/Hi-Beam instrument pod and moving it to front & center of the handlebar. That gave me an idea somewhat different, I drew it up, a fellow ADV'er that is a machinist helped do it in proper form.

So, as you know, the expensive part of a laser-cut aluminum piece is the setup. once you get it right, they can be knocked out fast and at falling cost.
We figure that it would only take about 50 of these to get down to a paltry cost of about $5 or so apiece, plus shipping, which should be cheap.

this is essentially and aluminum plate that would be mounted on the upper pair of handlebar bolts, into which you would place your instrument/light Pod, and screw it in from the bottom just like it is screwed into the stock rubber thingy.

I'll add to this a link to the proper drawing so you can see it.

if this has already been done, somebody let us all know.

I also sent this as an inquiry to HDB.. Highway Dirt bikes, to see if they might have been asked to do this as one of their handlebar clamps offerings, just for DR'heads.

Please respond and simply say "Yes, I'd probably buy" or "Nah... got a better plan"

thx
I would be interested in a laser cut aluminum indicator light panel mount. I have made my own, it's not perfect but it's not too shabby either. I made mine so the light panel is mounted above the mount plate. I have seen two other nice versions. Is the mount you are talking about a bolt on or does the speedometer need to be shimmed forward, or any other necessary modifications?

Tech23
Attached Images
 
__________________
CRF 150/230/ Supermoto Conversion
2004 Suzuki DR 650SM

2000 Harley Davidson FXDWG
2011 Victory Cross Country
Tech23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2011, 04:12 PM   #49460
ADVBedouin
Rider
 
ADVBedouin's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: CA. Central Coast
Oddometer: 396
Loud metallic creaking noise

There were earlier posts/questions about this loud metallic creak after parking the bike on it's side stand: I first heard it after re-installing the factory bashguard (used factory torque specs), which required removal of the full-length, lower engine mounting bolt & nuts/washers.

I determined it was just chassis settling, however it doesn't happen any more. I wasn't sure if was the engine cooling (changing clearances on the engine mount bolt in the frame), or if it was lateral forces on the frame induced by the kickstand. But the noise was too loud & sharp to come from the kickstand alone.

The main point is it started only after I re-installed the bash gaurd & engine mount bolt, but that after not touching either for a few thousand miles it has stopped. I tend to think it's because there's no longer any micro-shifting of the engine mount bolt & fasteners on the frame... like everything's settled in tightly back together again.

ADVBedouin screwed with this post 05-25-2011 at 04:17 PM
ADVBedouin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2011, 04:34 PM   #49461
Bubba Bauer
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Bubba Bauer's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2011
Location: Lower Mitcham SA
Oddometer: 154
Pissed DR 650 neutral sending unit screwup!

If your neutral light doesn`t seem to work properly stop and search for causes, on mine the screw let go fell into the madly spinning (was doing around 120K-s) clutch assembly and blew it up. End results:

This is going to be a complete strip I think just can`t be sure where did the parts fly... or is this beyond salvation? So far what damage I can see is the inner clutch hub assembly what`s became a 10000 piece puzzle. Use barnett plates my friction plates and steel plates were spotless while everything blow up around them ( I had to bend or cut them to get them off the hub which is broken and bent...
Attached Images
 
__________________
Bubba Bauer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2011, 04:38 PM   #49462
Bubba Bauer
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Bubba Bauer's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2011
Location: Lower Mitcham SA
Oddometer: 154
Pissed

This is what I saw when the cover came off...
Attached Images
 
__________________
Bubba Bauer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2011, 04:42 PM   #49463
B1
Carbon-based bipedal
 
B1's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Arse-trailer
Oddometer: 2,950
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubba Bauer View Post
If your neutral light doesn`t seem to work properly stop and search for causes, on mine the screw let go fell into the madly spinning (was doing around 120K-s) clutch assembly and blew it up.
there's a good intro to this problem at this link. i know it probably wont help your situation much, but good reading for dr owners not familiar with this problem.
B1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2011, 04:43 PM   #49464
DockingPilot
Hooked Up and Hard Over
 
DockingPilot's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Andover, N.J.
Oddometer: 8,868
__________________
Frank Reinbold

"Every bike I ever had, was the best bike I ever had, when I had it"
DockingPilot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2011, 04:51 PM   #49465
Wannabee
Survivor of Reality
 
Wannabee's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Location: Portage ,PA
Oddometer: 2,403
HOLY SHIT ! That would bring me to tears , seeing the old girl in pain like that.
__________________
$$$FULL TILT BOOGIE$$$
Pain heals. Chicks dig scars. Glory... lasts forever.
Wannabee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2011, 05:17 PM   #49466
Tech23
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Tech23's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Arizona Desert
Oddometer: 458
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubba Bauer View Post
If your neutral light doesn`t seem to work properly stop and search for causes, on mine the screw let go fell into the madly spinning (was doing around 120K-s) clutch assembly and blew it up. End results:

This is going to be a complete strip I think just can`t be sure where did the parts fly... or is this beyond salvation? So far what damage I can see is the inner clutch hub assembly what`s became a 10000 piece puzzle. Use barnett plates my friction plates and steel plates were spotless while everything blow up around them ( I had to bend or cut them to get them off the hub which is broken and bent...

I guess the neutral light was malfunctioning and you let it go. How long between the time you noticed the malfunction with the light and the catastrophic failure? Are you 100% certain the two events are connected? I put longer allen bolts in my neutral switch and safety wired them with the clutch in place. I guess its possible the screw could have wedged in just the right place to set up a chain reaction of internal carnage like that. Looks real expensive. I don't know how fast the oil came out of it after the metal shavings started, but I would open up the oil pump and look inside for scoring and metal. Bearings don't like a diet of oil/metal shavings....neither do internal oil passages or the piston oil cooling jet. Doesn't take much to create a blockage.

Tech23
__________________
CRF 150/230/ Supermoto Conversion
2004 Suzuki DR 650SM

2000 Harley Davidson FXDWG
2011 Victory Cross Country
Tech23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2011, 05:56 PM   #49467
NorCal Jeff
Bold New Graphics!
 
NorCal Jeff's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Scott Valley Northern Cal
Oddometer: 73
Quote:
Originally Posted by IdahoRenegade View Post
Anyone using the Notoil filter maintenance kit that Procycle sells? I gave it a shot with my Twinair. I've only used it once, I'm a bit concerned. It goes on kinda thick and foamy...doesn't seem to soak in and distribute itself like typical filter oil does. I did this on a cold (about 40 degree) day...results might be different when warmer. Just wondering if anyone else has used the product, and if there are any concerns?
I've used the NoToil kit with their filter..no problems, although the ProCycle site says the cleaner isn't compatible with the TwinAir.. something about dissolving the adhesive..
__________________

one Bike to rule them all..
'06 DR 650
If it ain't broke...DON'T FIX IT!!!

NorCal Jeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2011, 06:02 PM   #49468
shootis
Gnarly Adventurer
 
shootis's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Dedham, Maine
Oddometer: 114
I'm always amazed at the folks that say safety wiring the NSU screws is way overkill!

Let's do the math,,, .10 cents for safety wire and 30 minutes of time or replace entire motor?

I was never good at math but I feel better with my screws drilled and wired!

It sounds like you are safe,, It looks like it could have gotten scary and very ugly. Hopefully others will gain from your loss.

shootis screwed with this post 05-25-2011 at 06:16 PM
shootis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2011, 06:09 PM   #49469
LexTalionis
Inciteful
 
LexTalionis's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubba Bauer View Post
This is what I saw when the cover came off...
Very sorry for your loss. Very surprising a small bolt can cause that much bikenage (as in "carnage").

Thank you for posting the pics, I had planned to do the NSU fix at the next oil change, now maybe I'll move that oil change up.

I hope you're back on the bike relatively soon.

Lex
__________________
The older I get, the better I was.
LexTalionis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2011, 06:17 PM   #49470
NJ-Brett
Brett
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Southern New Jersey
Oddometer: 6,091
That will buff out.

I would look for a used bike with a good motor.
I don't think buying almost an entire motor in parts would be cheap.

I got my bike for $1500.00 with 5000 miles on it, cheaper then buying all those parts!



Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubba Bauer View Post
If your neutral light doesn`t seem to work properly stop and search for causes, on mine the screw let go fell into the madly spinning (was doing around 120K-s) clutch assembly and blew it up. End results:

This is going to be a complete strip I think just can`t be sure where did the parts fly... or is this beyond salvation? So far what damage I can see is the inner clutch hub assembly what`s became a 10000 piece puzzle. Use barnett plates my friction plates and steel plates were spotless while everything blow up around them ( I had to bend or cut them to get them off the hub which is broken and bent...
NJ-Brett is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 01:36 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014