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Old 05-25-2011, 01:13 PM   #49441
maxicardi
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Location: Antwerpen, the Lowlands
Oddometer: 2
DR 650 : where did my oil go???

Hi guys,

just new to the forum, although not new to biking. Having been riding for the past 20 years, everything from 2-stroke vintage Vespa's to Kawasaki ZRX Lawson rep...so I thought I knew one things or two about mechanics!

But now, my old trusty DR 650 RS start doing something strange: the oil level goes considerably down after just 200km, so much that I have to top up almost 200cc to bring it back to normal values!

YES, I check it correctly, bike is level, engine is warm, wait 5 mins..
The bike DOESN'T smoke
there are no oil stains around exhausts/on the top koffer/on my back
it start and rides well, just had 145km/h (on GPS) with ease
the plugs aren't black/wet

I topped it up yesterday and actually it rode 'worse' for the first 20mins. and after 200km my oil was AGAIN disappeared. Oh, unnecessary to say...NO LEAKS!

Any wise ideas from the experts?
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Old 05-25-2011, 01:22 PM   #49442
Northyork
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Funny thing you mentioned that. When I bought them I noticed the back tire is made in Germany and the front in Brazil. Have not had any issues with either back or front tire. It is going to be hard to drive the bike, on pavement, with other tires, I have become to trust this tires so much!!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Tourance are good but expensive. I haven't used them on my DR650 but used the rear only on my Vstrom years ago. The front Tourance had issues some years ago, so never tried the front.

The Shinko is pretty reasonable and performs well, IMHO.
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Old 05-25-2011, 01:38 PM   #49443
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
In the '96 and '97 Oz Safari Rally there were 5 DR's prepared by Vince Strang. All finished in the top ten outright and got a 2nd overall in '96 and 3rd overall in '97.
Wow! That's impressive. Love the Strang connection ... which is so relevant today. We learn Zero about Oz here in the USA. Now, with the net we can dig stuff out, but it's not commonly known.

Sadly, AFAIK, Suzuki never officially raced the DR650 here in the USA or in Baja, where both Honda and Kawasaki dominated. Suzuki did race the DRZ400, but without much success.

They quickly dropped it and jumped to the RMZ's and motocross, although they've also done well in GNCC , enduro and desert racing here in the USA. Josh Strang (son of Vince I'm assuming?) won the GNCC championship for Makita Suzuki in 2010 on a RMZ450, and has done well there for years.

Suzuki have had great success in all forms of off road racing here in the USA: Motocross, Supercross, AMA Enduro, Hare & Hound, GNCC and more.

You would think with all that success they would focus on a building a modern, upgraded DR650. Maybe someday?
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Old 05-25-2011, 01:42 PM   #49444
IdahoRenegade
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Location: Sagle, Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapp22 View Post
Putting out a feeler here...
A DR friend popped by one day and one of the farkles he had was a one-off [I GUESS... if you know otherwise, speakup] aluminum mounting plate to take the Turnsignal/Neutral/Hi-Beam instrument pod and moving it to front & center of the handlebar. That gave me an idea somewhat different, I drew it up, a fellow ADV'er that is a machinist helped do it in proper form.

So, as you know, the expensive part of a laser-cut aluminum piece is the setup. once you get it right, they can be knocked out fast and at falling cost.
We figure that it would only take about 50 of these to get down to a paltry cost of about $5 or so apiece, plus shipping, which should be cheap.

this is essentially and aluminum plate that would be mounted on the upper pair of handlebar bolts, into which you would place your instrument/light Pod, and screw it in from the bottom just like it is screwed into the stock rubber thingy.

I'll add to this a link to the proper drawing so you can see it.

if this has already been done, somebody let us all know.

I also sent this as an inquiry to HDB.. Highway Dirt bikes, to see if they might have been asked to do this as one of their handlebar clamps offerings, just for DR'heads.

Please respond and simply say "Yes, I'd probably buy" or "Nah... got a better plan"

thx
Just a thought, but have you contacted Procycle or any other distributer and see if they would carry these? Keeps you out of the PITA sales and shipping business (which takes a lot of time) and focued on design and fabrication. Sounds like an interesting product.
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Old 05-25-2011, 01:49 PM   #49445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbocelica View Post
Factory manual is odd for this setting. I don't have it in front of me currently so I'l be guessing a bit here.

In section 4 they list the jet sizes & pilot screw setting for several different areas. Two of the areas are in the USA. One is California and the other is outside of Cali.. The Outside-California setting has the # of turns (1.5?) listed. The California box only has "Pre-Set".

So I think I should probably start at the 1 to 1.5 turns out range and start the checks to see where I'm actually at. Thinking a bit rich would be better than lean right??
I think you will find you will be pretty darn close (1 to 1.5 turns). It seems most end up somwhere between 1 and 2 turns. Some like a little more (rich) to cure surging or low end response, but mileage can suffer a little if opened to far.

Rumlover screwed with this post 05-25-2011 at 02:09 PM
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Old 05-25-2011, 01:56 PM   #49446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxicardi View Post
Hi guys,

just new to the forum, although not new to biking. Having been riding for the past 20 years, everything from 2-stroke vintage Vespa's to Kawasaki ZRX Lawson rep...so I thought I knew one things or two about mechanics!

But now, my old trusty DR 650 RS start doing something strange: the oil level goes considerably down after just 200km, so much that I have to top up almost 200cc to bring it back to normal values!

YES, I check it correctly, bike is level, engine is warm, wait 5 mins..
The bike DOESN'T smoke
there are no oil stains around exhausts/on the top koffer/on my back
it start and rides well, just had 145km/h (on GPS) with ease
the plugs aren't black/wet

I topped it up yesterday and actually it rode 'worse' for the first 20mins. and after 200km my oil was AGAIN disappeared. Oh, unnecessary to say...NO LEAKS!

Any wise ideas from the experts?

DR650 RS -- What year is it?

Have you checked your airbox. Excess crankcase pressure or improper crankcase breather hose routing could cause it to be pushed into the box.
Could be caused by overfilling -- not saying yours is but I think that could be a cause of excess pressure.
Good luck
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Old 05-25-2011, 02:13 PM   #49447
thumpididump
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Thanks. Much appreciated.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. B View Post
Update. Thumpididump asked for pix of the installation:

This is the Moto-Sport rack/mount. The boxes screw into the top and hook onto the bottom.


This is the aluminum piece that normally comes with the M-S Yukon II Panniers. It rests on the bottom of the mount. I ordered these from M-S:



The screws and odd washers shown below were hunted down at various hardware stores. They screw into the mounts. I attached the aluminum piece with some bolts I had sitting around. In retrospect, I would have saved time using the (somewhat expensive) M-S pieces.



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Old 05-25-2011, 02:24 PM   #49448
maxicardi
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Joined: May 2011
Location: Antwerpen, the Lowlands
Oddometer: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumlover View Post
DR650 RS -- What year is it?

Have you checked your airbox. Excess crankcase pressure or improper crankcase breather hose routing could cause it to be pushed into the box.
Could be caused by overfilling -- not saying yours is but I think that could be a cause of excess pressure.
Good luck
The bike is a 1990 DR RS, kickstarter only. Breather hose is OK, routing also...moderate quantity of oil in the airbox (it's just "greasy"). Surely not the amount I'm missing...
I'm using Castrol GPS 10w40...maybe too thin???
A Belgian Beer for the one who solves this puzzle
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Old 05-25-2011, 02:48 PM   #49449
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxicardi View Post
The bike is a 1990 DR RS, kickstarter only. Breather hose is OK, routing also...moderate quantity of oil in the airbox (it's just "greasy"). Surely not the amount I'm missing...
I'm using Castrol GPS 10w40...maybe too thin???
A Belgian Beer for the one who solves this puzzle
Clean the airbox and go for a ride. See if any oil makes it's way back in...
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Old 05-25-2011, 03:57 PM   #49450
kimber45
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Clay,MI
Oddometer: 756
Quote:
Originally Posted by pjensen641 View Post
Gear is the important question here. At 20-30 mph you shouldn't be any higher than 3rd with stock gearing. Otherwise you are most likely lugging the engine. Lugging is really bad for any engine. With the DR you get lots of cyclic loading of the tranny at low RPM, probably one of the causes of the 3rd gear blow-ups. I'm pretty sure Procycle said it best a while back (and I paraphrase) The DR engine is a midrange engine. Many people mistake the term thumper for something you can just put in high gear and barely thump along...not true at all.

I personally don't use 4th gear until 35+ and 5th gear at 45+, even then I need to down shift to prevent excessive chain slap and chattering of the gearbox if I need power. When accelerating I normally shift to 4th at 40 and 5th at 50+. This is with a properly set up FCR-MX.
well not sure now but i would say i was in 3rd. if this darn rain ever stops i'll pay closer attention.

you know now that you mention it i may be hearing chain slap. that's sorta what it sounds like.

thanks for the info.
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Old 05-25-2011, 04:37 PM   #49451
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapp22 View Post
Putting out a feeler here...
A DR friend popped by one day and one of the farkles he had was a one-off [I GUESS... if you know otherwise, speakup] aluminum mounting plate to take the Turnsignal/Neutral/Hi-Beam instrument pod and moving it to front & center of the handlebar. That gave me an idea somewhat different, I drew it up, a fellow ADV'er that is a machinist helped do it in proper form.

So, as you know, the expensive part of a laser-cut aluminum piece is the setup. once you get it right, they can be knocked out fast and at falling cost.
We figure that it would only take about 50 of these to get down to a paltry cost of about $5 or so apiece, plus shipping, which should be cheap.

this is essentially and aluminum plate that would be mounted on the upper pair of handlebar bolts, into which you would place your instrument/light Pod, and screw it in from the bottom just like it is screwed into the stock rubber thingy.

I'll add to this a link to the proper drawing so you can see it.

if this has already been done, somebody let us all know.

I also sent this as an inquiry to HDB.. Highway Dirt bikes, to see if they might have been asked to do this as one of their handlebar clamps offerings, just for DR'heads.

Please respond and simply say "Yes, I'd probably buy" or "Nah... got a better plan"

thx
I would be interested in a laser cut aluminum indicator light panel mount. I have made my own, it's not perfect but it's not too shabby either. I made mine so the light panel is mounted above the mount plate. I have seen two other nice versions. Is the mount you are talking about a bolt on or does the speedometer need to be shimmed forward, or any other necessary modifications?

Tech23
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Old 05-25-2011, 05:12 PM   #49452
ADVBedouin
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Location: CA. Central Coast
Oddometer: 396
Loud metallic creaking noise

There were earlier posts/questions about this loud metallic creak after parking the bike on it's side stand: I first heard it after re-installing the factory bashguard (used factory torque specs), which required removal of the full-length, lower engine mounting bolt & nuts/washers.

I determined it was just chassis settling, however it doesn't happen any more. I wasn't sure if was the engine cooling (changing clearances on the engine mount bolt in the frame), or if it was lateral forces on the frame induced by the kickstand. But the noise was too loud & sharp to come from the kickstand alone.

The main point is it started only after I re-installed the bash gaurd & engine mount bolt, but that after not touching either for a few thousand miles it has stopped. I tend to think it's because there's no longer any micro-shifting of the engine mount bolt & fasteners on the frame... like everything's settled in tightly back together again.

ADVBedouin screwed with this post 05-25-2011 at 05:17 PM
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Old 05-25-2011, 05:34 PM   #49453
Bubba Bauer
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Location: Lower Mitcham SA
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Pissed DR 650 neutral sending unit screwup!

If your neutral light doesn`t seem to work properly stop and search for causes, on mine the screw let go fell into the madly spinning (was doing around 120K-s) clutch assembly and blew it up. End results:

This is going to be a complete strip I think just can`t be sure where did the parts fly... or is this beyond salvation? So far what damage I can see is the inner clutch hub assembly what`s became a 10000 piece puzzle. Use barnett plates my friction plates and steel plates were spotless while everything blow up around them ( I had to bend or cut them to get them off the hub which is broken and bent...
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Old 05-25-2011, 05:38 PM   #49454
Bubba Bauer
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Pissed

This is what I saw when the cover came off...
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Old 05-25-2011, 05:42 PM   #49455
B1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubba Bauer View Post
If your neutral light doesn`t seem to work properly stop and search for causes, on mine the screw let go fell into the madly spinning (was doing around 120K-s) clutch assembly and blew it up.
there's a good intro to this problem at this link. i know it probably wont help your situation much, but good reading for dr owners not familiar with this problem.
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