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Old 05-28-2011, 06:32 AM   #31
ridewestKTM
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Suspect this would be true

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Bean View Post
limited by the lifespan of the pump (membrane, solenoid rod).
>100'000km

Occasionally I have seen the rod of the pump freezes due to heavy oxidation, in areas where they put tons of salt on the road in the winter (like we do here in Holland).
So far all kits I ever delivered are still running flawless.

but I don't have any 100'000km tests... I do my best, no warranty.

regards
The pumps don't seal well, and sometimes the vent is where washdown water can enter.
I agree with Dr Bean the rest of the pump should be long lived otherwise.
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Old 05-28-2011, 10:33 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridewestKTM View Post
The pumps don't seal well, and sometimes the vent is where washdown water can enter.
I agree with Dr Bean the rest of the pump should be long lived otherwise.
The only 1 fail of my kits, was due to the fact that someones pump-house had filled up 50% with (salty)water, and the PCB was still working: Over a couple of month the connection of the coil to the PCB corroded away. When the pump died the connection on the PCB around the wire was gone. I re-soldered that and all electronics still worked: and it is still running today.

Also the wire from the coil itself was about 50% gone... so if the PCB wouldn't have failed.. the wire would have only little later.
With contact breakers the pump would have ceased long before!

AND:
I improved the PCB on this point in 2 ways:
- the PCB now get a PU coating so it doesn't corrode any more
- the connection of this point on the PCB is made stronger and double-sided: so about 4x stronger.


My own prototype (still in my bike after 40dkm rallies and offroad) stopped working ones: It was filled up with muddy waters and that clogged the light detection. I rinsed it with clean water and remounted it... no problems ever since.

Still: Don't try to seal the pump-house.. that will make thing only worse.
Make sure the vent-hose is on the bottom side (so don't mount the pump up-side down) and the vent hose has a nice S curve to prevent water getting in to easily.

(these issues are the same or worse with the original contactbreakers
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Old 05-28-2011, 11:23 AM   #33
Sumi
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Dr. Bean,
Where do you live in NL? I'm heading out there for a fishing trip with my dad next month, and I was thinking about buying a kit from you if we can arrange it (and hopefully I can take it home on a plane without anybody of the airport security thinking anything bad of it - not sure).
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Old 05-28-2011, 12:09 PM   #34
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Dr. Bean,
Where do you live in NL? I'm heading out th....
see PB
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Old 05-28-2011, 12:33 PM   #35
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If someone else in the US is buying one, I'll go in one one.
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Old 05-28-2011, 02:34 PM   #36
ridewestKTM
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water proofed the PCB -interesting

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Bean View Post
The only 1 fail of my kits, was due to the fact that someones pump-house had filled up 50% with (salty)water, and the PCB was still working: Over a couple of month the connection of the coil to the PCB corroded away. When the pump died the connection on the PCB around the wire was gone. I re-soldered that and all electronics still worked: and it is still running today.

Also the wire from the coil itself was about 50% gone... so if the PCB wouldn't have failed.. the wire would have only little later.
With contact breakers the pump would have ceased long before!

AND:
I improved the PCB on this point in 2 ways:
- the PCB now get a PU coating so it doesn't corrode any more
- the connection of this point on the PCB is made stronger and double-sided: so about 4x stronger.


My own prototype (still in my bike after 40dkm rallies and offroad) stopped working ones: It was filled up with muddy waters and that clogged the light detection. I rinsed it with clean water and remounted it... no problems ever since.

Still: Don't try to seal the pump-house.. that will make thing only worse.
Make sure the vent-hose is on the bottom side (so don't mount the pump up-side down) and the vent hose has a nice S curve to prevent water getting in to easily.

(these issues are the same or worse with the original contactbreakers
I tried to coat the PCBs on my kits and it didn't seem to make much difference. I potted a few for external of the cap - that's what I carry for backup. My own generation 2 unit has 20k miles and works great still. Sealed up the cap best I could -can't imagine why not. Even considered just plugging the vent but I suppose sea level to 10kft could keep the pump from working. - I know water would blitz my circuit though. The coil takes so much current it hard to imagine it can tolerate much of anything -just the solder joints get hot even when the circuit components stay cool. If mine ever fails I have a small inventory of my generation 3 units and can go a long time, so I have no worries.
NTL the optical is a good choice - good job.
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Old 05-28-2011, 02:46 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridewestKTM View Post
I tried to coat the PCBs on my kits and it didn't seem to make much difference. I potted a few for external of the cap - that's what I carry for backup. My own generation 2 unit has 20k miles and works great still. Sealed up the cap best I could -can't imagine why not. Even considered just plugging the vent but I suppose sea level to 10kft could keep the pump from working. - I know water would blitz my circuit though. The coil takes so much current it hard to imagine it can tolerate much of anything -just the solder joints get hot even when the circuit components stay cool. If mine ever fails I have a small inventory of my generation 3 units and can go a long time, so I have no worries.
NTL the optical is a good choice - good job.
sorry don't know you made and don't get you text completely.

as for backup: My kit removes the complete original contact breakers: If they are still reasonable you can simple use those as backup since it is very easy to revert to original. You only cut 1 wire for install of my kit: reconnect that wire and reinstall the original C-breakers and you are done. Nice to have if you are planning a worldtrip or deserttrip....
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Old 05-29-2011, 12:28 PM   #38
ridewestKTM
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Sorry, I thought you knew.

[QUOTE=Dr_Bean;16028107]sorry don't know you made and don't get you text completely.


I was making and selling a solid state circuit (no points) - it's board looked like yours. Started it in early 08. My system concept was more like the Facet's... in that it was constant pumping frequency and varried stroke with demand. I also got people going on the FET switching using the points.
I had sold two configurations one being tuned for the Honda AT - even sold some to your countrymen. The other configurations were more for the KTM950 and as I perfected the operation for 950s it became more like the AT's, yet still fine. This one is my "generation 3" - only sold a hand full. The generation 1 design caused too much pump heating, and I replaced those free of charge for the gen twos. Selling stuff just isn't my thing-hate it in fact. Saw the need and wanted to see what I could do for KTM riders and take on a challange of building the kits. Fun ended as soon as one complaint came in - misery ensued.
One other thing I have done is I can fix the pumps that have had a diode failure. (happens if X-wired)
But for sure - your product can be the answer, just too bad there had to be the question.
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Old 05-29-2011, 01:21 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridewestKTM View Post
I was making and selling a solid state circuit (no points) - it's board looked like yours. Started it in early 08. My...
Ah, ok.

Well, mine started simply because of the same reason, in 2006, when my own 950 pump started to give problems.
As a challenge I replaced it, first with breakers+Fet, later with a opto (and actually also included the 'on' function of the boardcomputer into it and removed the original fuelpump-relay: one of many things to make my 950 lighter).
I used the 950 3 years to drive rally: 8th an 4th in the Tuareg rally (profi-class) and 1st in Eastern Europe rally (OER). now I have a 690 for this.

I always liked inventing electronics for bikes.

ANyway: My friends started to ask me whether I also could make this pump-switch for them... but of course I could not give them something like my own prototype (one-off, reused parts etc). So I draw up a pcb and perfected the schematic and pcb, making it 'reproducable' and also easy to mount for everyone with a solder iron. But developing a PCB and trying-out things has its price.

I still hand-solder all boards myself and don't really want to make 'production' out of it and I don't try to make profit of it, just enough to cover expenses, an occasional 'lost' in the mail etc. And some to develop the next version...

I am not a company doing this! Its hobby, I have a real job too
I just hope to help people out with this fix.


Reverse connecting the pump and board will blow-up the pump-diode indeed (so how do you fix this: blow out the diode completely?) and usually it also damages my kit-board.
There is an extra diode on the board, so if the original pump-diode doesn't work, that is not a problem.
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Old 05-29-2011, 01:45 PM   #40
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What happens if the pump diode is bad? How do you know? Is it bad to run it like that?
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Old 05-29-2011, 02:04 PM   #41
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What happens if the pump diode is bad? How do you know? Is it bad to run it like that?
IF the diode is 'shorted': the pump doesn't work at all, just draws a lot of current.
IF the diode is gone/open this will normally give extra strong sparking/arcing on the contact breakers. For my kit this doesn't matter: The kit has its own diode.

DO NOT reverse circuit the pump and/or kit! you can also not do this with the original pump! you might even blow-up your ECU!
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Old 05-30-2011, 06:12 AM   #42
ridewestKTM
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blown diode fix -and

Yes Dr Bean is right, and I have only seen them go to "closed" - high current and no indiction of function. But if it were to fail open one could put a new diode outside the steel. My fix is to do exactly that. The how is a die grinder cut in just the right spot and the burnt diode can be picked out. I tried cutting the whole pump -actually to try rewind the coil -(I know now that was just dumb, us mechanical engineers are sometimes slow that way). But I learned where the diode was and also learned that cutting the steel breaks the magnetic path and the pump will barely work afterwards. I still use it as a test unit tho.
Dr. Bean: yes I too have a job. I hope to change to a priviate business but it wouldn't be cycle stuff - not that that wouldn't be fun.
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Old 05-30-2011, 06:26 AM   #43
ridewestKTM
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Oh and another thing

Dr Bean:
Don't get discouraged if you get complaints - Like the occasional - "it won't fit!" because there are people who WILL try to mount it upside down.

pm me if there's anything I can help with
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Old 05-30-2011, 01:33 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridewestKTM View Post
Dr Bean:
Don't get discouraged if you get complaints - Like the occasional - "it won't fit!" because there are people who WILL try to mount it upside down.

pm me if there's anything I can help with
Well.. If you wanna help: you can be the re-distributer/reseller: I'll ship you 10 bulk, insured package etc. You redistribute them. (pm/mail me if you are interested).

or you can just advise people here on whether they can do this or not. You could also start a pump-exchange center where people can ship their pump to, and have this kit installed by you :-) ....


Occasional return because people overestimated what they could do themselves in inherent: I don't give that warranty, but I'll try to help in such case. The worse are the people that do NOT ask, only after trying everything that was not in the manual (like drilling extra holes in the PCB ).
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Old 05-30-2011, 05:44 PM   #45
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I tried the Bean today. It tasted good

At 12k miles my points didn't seem too badly worn. Perhaps 1/3-1/2 compared to the 12k 950SM a few posts back.

Install was easy. I didn't remove the fuel lines, just primed the pump with the fuel off to clear out any fuel and did the install with the lines still attached. To be honest I couldn't understand what the loop of fuel-line (connecting input to output) was supposed to achieve plus I didn't want to cut the OEM crimp clamps off the lines. By far the hardest part of the install was getting the grommet back through the plastic cap at the end

Gerben: about 1/2 way through improving the English instructions, try and finish tomorrow and I'll e-mail you them.

Took her for a 90 mile test ride today, all seemed fine.
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