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Old 06-01-2011, 05:40 PM   #11476
Boon Booni
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
Yeah but can't you attribute that to the evolution of engine technology? I believe your DL is pretty recent where as the TA is ~22 years old. I'm not trying to argue or refute your observations but it seems that the comparison is a little more apples/oranges, to me. In other words, I would expect the DL to be better.
Without a doubt. But there seemed to be some sentiment that it really wasn't the case.

Either way though, it's a sticky situation. We love the bikes we have, including their shortcomings, which we don't really see as shortcomings. I like both the Strom and TA for various reasons.

One of my favorite bikes is my R90/6, which has 250cc on my strom, is slower, has a hinge in the frame, poor brakes, clunky transmission, poor suspension, but is super fun to ride, in many ways because of all it's shortcomings.
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Old 06-01-2011, 07:58 PM   #11477
locorider
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Valve clearance

The manual specifies 0.1mm for valve clearance. Is this correct? I did it but dont like the way the engine sounds after the adjustment... Also, its running hotter. Do I have to syncro the carbs?
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Old 06-01-2011, 08:09 PM   #11478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by locorider View Post
The manual specifies 0.1mm for valve clearance. Is this correct? I did it but dont like the way the engine sounds after the adjustment... Also, its running hotter. Do I have to syncro the carbs?
Intake: 0.15mm or 0.006 in.
Exhaust: 0.20mm or 0.008 in.
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Old 06-02-2011, 07:41 AM   #11480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boon Booni
Either way though, it's a sticky situation. We love the bikes we have, including their shortcomings, which we don't really see as shortcomings.
True that. So far, I cannot find any "shortcomings" () even though I know there are. However, the TA works for what I want in an 'adventure' bike. And, that's good enough for me.
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Old 06-02-2011, 08:26 AM   #11481
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Originally Posted by FolcoNitro 2KF View Post

This is my summer project.



3000 km in 10 days...


http://danyila.selfip.org/turafilmek/Albania_2010/
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Old 06-02-2011, 11:17 AM   #11482
locorider
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I guess the specs you mention are for newer TAs.


Quote:
Originally Posted by old2wheeler View Post
Intake: 0.15mm or 0.006 in.
Exhaust: 0.20mm or 0.008 in.
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Old 06-02-2011, 11:43 AM   #11483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old2wheeler View Post
Intake: 0.15mm or 0.006 in.
Exhaust: 0.20mm or 0.008 in.
These specs are for 89-90 TA's
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Old 06-02-2011, 01:07 PM   #11484
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Some time ago Ladder came up with a Air Filter mod which required removing all the paper from the filter frame and installing a cut down foam filter that I think was a UNI NU-4097 or something very similar in design.

I don't have images showing the exposed and altered raw frame but this isn't about that aspect of the mod but about the foam filter.

As I remember it the overall diameter made it a bit snug to fit back into the air box hole and the over all foam thickness also keep it from fitting perfectly into the recessed "tray" in the filter frame.

Well I was working on a friends NX125 which needed a new air filter and once it came in I checked out the size and ordered another one for the air filter frame, it's a perfect fit with no cutting of any kind, drops in and fits snug and is much cheaper than the UNI filter.
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Old 06-02-2011, 01:30 PM   #11485
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I had to replace a valve cover gasket on a TA and got to thinking about how you can't tighten the valve cover bolts to add more pressure to the existing gasket.

It never occured to me before that the bolt shoulder is probably what is bottoming out and restricting tightening the cover some more. So I counted the turns on the bolt with the cover on and without the valve cover to see when the bolt bottoms out and stops, both were 10 1/3 turns.

This means that if you put a washer under the head of the chrome bolt it will in effect shorten the length of the bolt shoulder. As long as the overall diameter of the added washer is no larger than the valve cover bolt mounting then you should be able to increase the pressure on the valve cover gasket. I would not recommend over doing this bolt, you could deform or crack the valve cover but if you have a slight nagging drip from these gaskets this just might solve it or at least buy you some time.

I did not try this because I needed to know that stopping the gasket leak was a permanent fix the first time without trial and error, I simply did not have the time to experiment.

I think it will work and it would sure be a heck of a lot quicker than what you have to go through to replace these gaskets, especially after you re- assembled the entire bike from having it all in pieces only to discover the next day that they leak, do ask how I know this!
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Old 06-02-2011, 01:45 PM   #11486
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Valve cover bolt and washer
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Old 06-02-2011, 01:54 PM   #11487
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Hiya Mark

Is that a Honda filter for an NX125 or is it made by an aftermarket company? Do you have the part number and source to order from handy?

Thanks - Dave
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Old 06-02-2011, 02:19 PM   #11488
mas335
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Originally Posted by NorCalTA View Post
Hiya Mark

Is that a Honda filter for an NX125 or is it made by an aftermarket company? Do you have the part number and source to order from handy?

Thanks - Dave
Honda: 17213-KB7-000
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Old 06-02-2011, 04:12 PM   #11489
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OH....OK.....at first I thought that the entire 125 filter was identical to the TA filter but foam and was wondering why Honda would do such a thing.

What you're saying is that the FOAM from the NX125 filter can be removed, the paper on the standard TA filter can be removed from the cage and the NX foam is a perfect fit IN PLACE of the paper..

Right?

Also, people smarter than me have discovered that burning the paper off with a propane plumbers torch is a much faster and cleaner way to remove the paper.

BUT PLEASE......

realize that if you are performing this operation on an old filter, oil and fuel vapors will have permeated your paper and you may have more fire than you can deal with

As always do this in an open and well ventilated space completely away from all other fuel and combustibles.

One other thing....I think that breathing the fumes from the burning epoxy or whatever adhesive is used here is NOT A GOOD THING.
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Old 06-02-2011, 05:40 PM   #11490
mas335
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Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
OH....OK.....at first I thought that the entire 125 filter was identical to the TA filter but foam and was wondering why Honda would do such a thing.

Ladder......What you're saying is that the FOAM from the NX125 filter can be removed, the paper on the standard TA filter can be removed from the cage and the NX foam is a perfect fit IN PLACE of the paper.. I had too much info on my mind and made some assumptions. When you order the NX125 filter number that I provided you only get the foam sleeve. I took this image just to show someone else that the NX125 air filter is a replaceable foam type over the triangular frame in the photo. You prep the TA air filter just as you would for the UNI filter. I think the list price on these foam filters is $14.00? The UNI plus shipping ran close to $30.00?


Right?

Also, people smarter than me have discovered that burning the paper off with a propane plumbers torch is a much faster and cleaner way to remove the paper. The paper is not that hard to remove and since the perforated metal center cylinder is also Epoxyed onto the main cover didn't want to disturb that so I did it the slow and dusty way with a dremel tool.



BUT PLEASE......

realize that if you are performing this operation on an old filter, oil and fuel vapors will have permeated your paper and you may have more fire than you can deal with

As always do this in an open and well ventilated space completely away from all other fuel and combustibles.

One other thing....I think that breathing the fumes from the burning epoxy or whatever adhesive is used here is NOT A GOOD THING.
For what it is worth, the foam filter comes pre-oiled so expect that when you open the plastic bag.
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