New airhead owner checking in

[SirWompus]

Hi all, I've been a UJM guy in the past but have always wanted to try out a airhead. It must have something to do with enjoying the simplicity of air-cooled VWs.

Anyway This Saturday I spotted a registered 1970 R60/5 runner a few miles from me and rode it home, in the rain. Frame and engine numbers match, the tank has been switched for a toaster and the turn signals are off a different model but all in all I think I'm happy with it. Whether or not $1300 was a good deal or not, I really don't care... it was within budget. That first night I stayed up late making some bushings for the center-stand, properly mounting the ziptied right side muffler and installing the included front brake shoes/springs.

This morning I payed my dues at the DMV, slapped the new sticker on and rode it to work.


Of course I have lots of questions but I'll do my best to answer what I can on my own.


-The right side bing leaks fuel from the overflow hole. I took the bowl off and noted that the float seem to float ok and when I push the float up to the top gas stops flowing in to the carb. What seems to be the problem is that when the float goes all the way down it seems to get stuck due to the angel it is approaching the needle. Wondered if it is common to have to take the float off and smooth out the landing that pushes against the needle. Of course my assessment could be wrong and the problem is elsewhere.

-With the petcocks off fuel still flows, albeit quite slowly. Where do I get a rebuild kit?

-Rear braking is nearly nonexistent . The adjustment wingnut is all the way screwed in. What I did notice is that the angle of the brake arm on the drum seems wrong, at rest it does not angle back or even straight down... it angles forward. Is it safe to take the arm off it's splines and index it rearward in hopes that the shoes are fine and the PO just indexed it wrong?

-Throttle is sticky, I took off the cover plate on the handle bars to expose the chain / gear setup and greased everything. I noticed that after lubing both cables and applying a tiny bit of molly to the carb sliders both sides seemed to pull fairly well from the cable ends but the throttle sticks. I'm thinking something in the handle bar assembly is amiss. Is it possible that worn teeth on the cog are causing the throttle to not want to return? If so where do I get a replacement.

-P0 switched the stock 4 speed for a 5 speed because one of the ears on the cover that mounts the clutch actuation lever [don't know the right turn] broke. The 4 speed is otherwise working good and the kick start is a big plus to me. Question is, how realistic would it be to search for a new cover or have the old one repaired. Someone else tried welding the mount and failed.


Summary:

+Numbers Match
+Rides quite good and actually stops now
+Newish tires / battery
+Signals, brake light, horn and both beams work

-Instrument cluster is non existent.
-Seat lifts off, is not mounted in any way
-Speedo cable is snapped off in the final drive
-Leaks a bit of oil
-Leaks a bit of gas from the right carb
-Although the paint ans pinstripes all look orig, everything is dinged up quite well.