F800GS Brake Pads - Page 2

PackMule · 03-08-2010, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johngil

I have used the gold on my KTM's.

I'm reluctant to try them on the brokeback beemer only because of them being harder on the rotors. From the price sheets I have seen, I would need to sell my son and pimp out my wife to pay for a new set of rotors.

I'm sure I'm just being paranoid.

Hmm. I hadn't thought about it in that way. I'm not a heavy rear brake user, and I was shocked how quickly my stock rear pads got toasted (especially given the lousy amount of feedback and grip they provided). I presumed it was from the abrasiveness of mud/dirt/etc so I opted for the golds out back over the greens (or black).

I'll have to keep a good eye on the rotor wear now.

johngil · 03-08-2010, 04:33 PM

Galfer Black Pads (GG rated)
If you are looking to upgrade your brakes without paying an upgraded price, Galfer black pads are the perfect choice for you. These GG rated pads out-perform most original equipment pads (which are usually G-rated only) by maintaining functionality at temperatures as high as 700 degrees. They offer extreme versatility with the ability to be used on both front and rear, and on both street and dirt with excellent effectiveness. These Semi-Metallic & Carbon pads offer great longevity while limiting rotor wear. These pads will give you a strong progressive feel allowing for a controlled braking modulation.
Composition: Semi-metal, Carbon Installation: Clean rotor surface & bed-in with easy braking first 60-120 miles.

Galfer Green Pads (GG rated)
If you need to stop on a dime, you better put on the 'Green'. The Kevlar-organic Green pads offer powerful, initial bite time after time with no fade. The versatility of these pads is unmatched. They can adjust to abrupt temperature and moisture changes and take little time to recover between braking. They can be used in all types of riding whether it is street, dirt, race, and any combination of each. These are better for an aggressive rider, since these offer one or two finger stopping power. For many riders, the ideal combination is using Galfer Green in the front with Galfer Black in the rear.
If rotor wear is of great concern, the Galfer green would be an optimum choice. They won't last quite as long as the black, OEM or the HH pads, but their soft, organic material composition causes minimal damage to the rotor surface.
Composition: Kevlar, Ceramics, Basalt Fibers Installation: Clean rotor surface (be extra diligent in cleaning if following an HH (Sintered) compound) & bed-in with easy braking first 60-120 miles.

Galfer HH Pads (HH rated)

These are the hottest pads on the market. This sintered metal & ceramic composition allows for the ultimate friction, making their stopping power unmatched. It will provide instant powerful braking intensity in any weather condition or speed. The ceramic coating on these pads disperses the heat evenly, keeping the brake fluid temperature lower. This minimizes brake fade. These pads also have a longer life span than most other pads because of the high metallic content. These HH pads are rougher on rotor surfaces but work with optimum performance on Galfer Brake Rotors and other high-carbon content discs. Despite this assumption, these pads have remained popular with the aggressive off-road and street riders and are supplied to many race teams.
Composition: Sintered Metal, Advanced Ceramics, Carbon Fibers Installation: Clean rotor surface & bed-in with easy braking first 60-120 miles.
Notes on rating of pad friction: Pad Friction levels are designated by the alphabet system... the further down the alphabet the higher the friction level and double letters is stronger than single letter designations (for example: GG has stronger friction than G rating).

PackMule · 03-08-2010, 06:14 PM

That'll learn me for going with the vendor's description instead of the manufacturer's...

johngil · 03-08-2010, 06:19 PM

Yeah but,,, "Don't worry. We sell rotors too."

PackMule · 03-08-2010, 06:30 PM

Tor · 06-10-2010, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johngil

CrazyMike, thanks for the info. I will ride Sunday and report back.

Where did you buy those pads from?

JRWooden · 06-10-2010, 03:42 PM

CycleGear can get them on special order.

Harry Swan · 06-10-2010, 04:01 PM

I'm becoming a fan of http://www.cyclebrakes.com/ They're on top of it all. They emailed me to double check my order and then called when I returned some pads I no longer wanted to let me know they were received.

JohnGil, I put Galfer green front and back. Very nice feel and a lot smoother front end braking over stock and Galfer 'black'

Tor · 06-10-2010, 04:56 PM

Found this. Looks like a decent price. Might order them from there when mine get thin.

http://www.happy-trail.com/Products/...spc-FD172.aspx

http://www.happy-trail.com/Products/...pc-FD_165.aspx

driftr · 06-10-2011, 08:20 AM

Is it common for the rear brakes to wear off after just 5000 miles?

EnderTheX · 06-10-2011, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftr

Is it common for the rear brakes to wear off after just 5000 miles?

It certainly is possible depending on the road conditions. I've heard stories of rear brakes wearing out in less than 1000 miles when riding through rock dust or ash... Some people may accidentally drag their rear brake a bit without noticing it if they are riding in heavy boots.

Check out this thread too: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=692697

lmclamore · 06-10-2011, 02:58 PM

I am at 10000 miles on original pads front and rear. They are wearing at the same rate. I have 2000-3000 miles to go before replacement is necessary based on that consumption rate. I do know where to measure pad thickness.

TheCowboy · 06-13-2011, 01:10 AM

Man, you boys are rough on brake pads. I am at 45,000 miles and have only went thru one set of pads. Looking at mine today (was last changed at 30,150 miles) I got plenty left.

I did not remove the calapers (can't speel) or the wheel when changing pads, just pulled them off, push the pucks back in with a screwdriver and put the new ones in - no big deal - maybe 5 minute tops to change all pads.

TheCowboy

lmclamore · 06-15-2011, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cowboy2

Man, you boys are rough on brake pads. I am at 45,000 miles and have only went thru one set of pads. Looking at mine today (was last changed at 30,150 miles) I got plenty left.

I did not remove the calapers (can't speel) or the wheel when changing pads, just pulled them off, push the pucks back in with a screwdriver and put the new ones in - no big deal - maybe 5 minute tops to change all pads.

TheCowboy

Some of us have a few more reasons to stop than others Cowboy. In my case, most of my miles are in bumper to bumper traffic, stop and go, 80 miles a day. Hard on brakes is right...and nerves. At least I'm on two wheels though!

JRWooden · 06-16-2011, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cowboy2

...

I did not remove the calapers (can't speel) or the wheel when changing pads, just pulled them off, push the pucks back in with a screwdriver and put the new ones in - no big deal - maybe 5 minute tops to change all pads.
TheCowboy

Well dang ... had not thought about doing it that way...
Bahhhhhhhhh too easy....

So you were able to slide the new pads up in-between the rotor and the caliper and get it all lined up with the caliper still in place eh?

03-08-2010, 06:14 PM	#18
PackMule love what you do Joined: Aug 2005 Location: New Hampshah Oddometer: 19,441	That'll learn me for going with the vendor's description instead of the manufacturer's... __________________ Nate in N.E. Yes, I have a Dakar problem -- that there are 50 weeks of the year without Dakar! They don't expect you to finish. That's why it's the Dakar. -- PPiA Get your sweet Pyndon DakARTwork here Pyndon '13

03-08-2010, 06:30 PM	#20
PackMule love what you do Joined: Aug 2005 Location: New Hampshah Oddometer: 19,441	__________________ Nate in N.E. Yes, I have a Dakar problem -- that there are 50 weeks of the year without Dakar! They don't expect you to finish. That's why it's the Dakar. -- PPiA Get your sweet Pyndon DakARTwork here Pyndon '13

06-10-2010, 04:01 PM	#23
Harry Swan One more time Joined: Jul 2001 Location: High in the Hollywood Hills Oddometer: 1,073	I'm becoming a fan of http://www.cyclebrakes.com/ They're on top of it all. They emailed me to double check my order and then called when I returned some pads I no longer wanted to let me know they were received. JohnGil, I put Galfer green front and back. Very nice feel and a lot smoother front end braking over stock and Galfer 'black' __________________ It's not too late

06-10-2010, 04:56 PM	#24
Tor Native Viking Joined: Nov 2005 Location: PD of SC Oddometer: 781	Found this. Looks like a decent price. Might order them from there when mine get thin. http://www.happy-trail.com/Products/...spc-FD172.aspx http://www.happy-trail.com/Products/...pc-FD_165.aspx __________________ "Be Always Sure You Are Right - Then Go Ahead" 2005 Honda ST1300 / 2010 BMW F800 Gelände-Straße

06-10-2011, 02:58 PM	#27
lmclamore Citation Collector Joined: Jul 2010 Location: Washington DC area Oddometer: 403	I am at 10000 miles on original pads front and rear. They are wearing at the same rate. I have 2000-3000 miles to go before replacement is necessary based on that consumption rate. I do know where to measure pad thickness. __________________ "An expert is someone who has made every mistake possible within a very narrow field of inquiry" -Niels Bohr

03-08-2010, 06:19 PM	#19
johngil ^OP Reseda, CA Joined: Jun 2007 Oddometer: 3,489	Yeah but,,, "Don't worry. We sell rotors too."

06-10-2010, 03:42 PM	#22
JRWooden Beastly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2008 Location: The great state of confusion Oddometer: 3,441	CycleGear can get them on special order.

06-10-2011, 08:20 AM	#25
driftr Adventurer Joined: Oct 2010 Location: Chicago Oddometer: 11	Is it common for the rear brakes to wear off after just 5000 miles?

06-13-2011, 01:10 AM	#28
TheCowboy back in the saddle again Joined: Feb 2008 Location: The frozen tundra - Minny Sota Oddometer: 590	Man, you boys are rough on brake pads. I am at 45,000 miles and have only went thru one set of pads. Looking at mine today (was last changed at 30,150 miles) I got plenty left. I did not remove the calapers (can't speel) or the wheel when changing pads, just pulled them off, push the pucks back in with a screwdriver and put the new ones in - no big deal - maybe 5 minute tops to change all pads. TheCowboy

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