|06-13-2011, 03:12 PM||#1|
Joined: Jun 2009
adapt the GSXR600, GSXR750 or GSXR1000 pipe to the DR650
I'm posting this info outside the DR650 thread as it gets repeated there each time someone asks about it. This has been collated from various sources, but particular thanks to the guy who did this webpage (check it out, heaps of info and pic there) and guys from the Thumper Talk and DR Riders forums as well, a lot of their info is in here.
No responsibility taken for inaccuracies, feel free to help out if anything is incorrect. This info applies to 1996+ models only.
WHY ADAPT THE GXR600 GSXR750 GSXR1000 PIPES TO A DR650SE (1996 to current models)?
It's around half the weight of the stock pipe, and about the same as most aftermarket pipes.
Dyno charts show it gives around the same performance increase as aftermarket pipes.
It's far quieter than aftermarket pipes, but has a nice note and louder than stock so you can actually tell which gear you are in at speed.
It's good for the environment - you are recycling a can that would otherwise just sit in a wrecker's shed instead of buying a new one with all that expensive carbon-intensive alloy.
It doesn't need repacking.
Extra performance and no loss in fuel economy (if you keep the airbox and jetting as standard).
It looks legal - if aftermarket pipes can get you booked in your country, then this comes stamped Suzuki and your average cop wouldn't have a clue it's not the stock pipe. And it's still very quiet so they shouldn't bother anyway.
IS IT CHEAPER THAN JUST BUYING A POWER PIPE?
It can be an incredibly cheap mod if you get the pipe cheaply from the wreckers, and make your own mid pipe, quite a few guys have done it for around $50 or less. It will still be pretty cheap if you buy an aftermarket mid-pipe and get the can cheaply (say under $50). But if you pay a fair bit for the can it will probably come out to the same as buying a new power pipe, although you still have the advantage of a quieter bike and it looks completely legal with the Suzuki markings etc.
HOW MUCH EXTRA POWER WILL I GET? AND WHAT DOES IT SOUND LIKE?
Here's a dyno chart that shows the GSXR1000 pipe matching or slightly outperforming the FMF pipe over most of the rev range. Please note I don't know what jetting was involved, the results came from this site here.
This Youtube clip let's you see and hear the difference between a GSXR pipe and the stock can.
WHY IS A MID PIPE REQUIRED? HOW DO I GET MY HANDS ON ONE?
You can use your existing header pipe, but will need a midpipe with a flange to connect to the four bolts on the GSXR muffler. You can buy an aftermarket one ($200 to $300) or make your own if you can access some pipe bending and welding equipment. Alternatively, try an exhaust specialist - I went this option and this Brisbane, QLD, Australia mob only charged $180 to make all the fittings and install as well. Bargain!
The Hindle P/N DR650S0SS slip-on stainless steel mid-pipe pictured below. Uses the stock DR head pipe joint gasket. Some guys report problems with the HIndle pipe making contact when the suspension bottoms out and eventually cracking? Check out this post but make sure you read all the responses including the manufacturer's response before making a judgment on whether it is the user's fault or Hindle's fault....
Another option is the Two Brothers mid-pipe pictured below (on top of the Hindle unit). It too is stainless steel, provides more rear brake line clearance than the Hindle pipe, and puts the GSXR muffler at a steeper angle.
Jesse at Kientech does mid-pipes as well, including a wider diameter one for the oversize FMF header pipe.
These mid-pipes will come with a bracket for bolting your GSXR can to the frame. If you make your own mid-pipe you'll just need to make your own bracket like the one below. It's very handy that the GSXR cans line up as well as they do.
WHICH GSXR PIPES WILL WORK ON THE DR650?
You've got a fair bit of choice here, depending on how fussy you are about size, weight and performance.
The ideal can is from the GSXR1000 2001 and 2002 models. This one is shorter and lighter due to a fair bit of titanium. Make sure it is stamped x40F0x.
Second best option is the GSXR1000 can from the 2003 and 2004 models. It will be stamped x18G1x. Slightly heavier, longer and fatter but still fits very well.
Third best option? GXR600 2001 to 2003 models and GSXR750 2000 to 2003 models. This version has steel internals so a bit of extra weight (but still far lighter than the stock can!) and a smaller outlet pipe so it's quieter and a bit more restrictive. It is stamped "35F01" Suzuki P/N 14310-35F01-H01.
Other options include getting aftermarket GSXR pipes, although the problem here is they are often very loud with no power advantage, and while there are some very cheap ones on Ebay they are usually very poor quality.
The pic below shows an R1 muffler, then the GSXR1000 (02 & 03) then the GSXR1000 (01 & 02) from top to bottom. Technically you can make most cans work, and some guys have adapted the R1 can to the DR650. It's a big mother though, the big advantage of the GSXR pipes is they are very small, light, and require the least work to fit to the DR650.
Obviously everyone tries to get the GSXR1000 2000 or 2001 model but it does make these scarce and/or expensive. If you have concerns about the larger size of the 2003 and 2004 models here is a pic of it fitted to my DR650. Tucks away very nicely, but I think this is because the exhaust specialist put a lot of effort into making sure it didn't poke out the back too much.
Below is the smaller GSXR1000 (2001 or 2002) can with the Hindle mid-pipe.
WHAT ABOUT A SPARK ARRESTER?
Please note, the GSXR pipe doesn't have a spark arrestor. In some countries this can be a big issue. FMF have a screen type SA that pops right into the back of the GSXR muffler. See this link for more info and pics.
WHAT ABOUT JETTING?
Personally, I made no adjustments as I wanted to keep the 200km (120 miles) fuel range before hitting reserve, and not give Suzuki an excuse to void my 12 month warranty for any engine problems that might come up! I tried removing the airbox cover but it ran like a dog, so obviously if you make any airbox mods you will definitely need to change the jetting. But I've found the performance improvement to be fine as is.
If anyone has info on successful jetting changes with the GSXR pipe please advise. Here is what I could find from other forums, this assumes you've got a stock DR650 with a GSXR pipe at sea level unless indicated otherwise. If you do mess around with jetting, remember you can get a snappier throttle response by drilling your slide - full instructions and pics on this here (same link as in the next sentence).
Procycle (DR650 specialists): easiest free mod is to remove your airbox snorkel but don't open the airbox up, then shim your needle to run a bit richer - 0.75mm to 1 mm (.030" to .040"). PDF of step-by-step instructions with photos available here.
NordieBoy on thumpertalk forum: With standard jets he just took the snorkel out and lift the needle half a clip (1 small washer). Later on he went to the Dynajet kit and ran 160 main jet, clip 4th from top, 45 pilot jet, 1.2 pilot air jet. No comments about the difference between the two setups.
SS2wheels on thumpertalk forum: used a Dynajet kit, 160 main, 4th clip down, 1 turn out on idle.
greer on thumpertalk forum: Dynajet kit, 155 and needle 4th clip, air/fuel screw 1.5-2 turns out, riding at 800 foot elevation.
basketcase on thumpertalk forum: tried a Dynajet kit but fuel economy dropped 17% so went back to stock jets - standard airbox but snorkel removed, stock 140 main jet, stock needle shimmed 2 mm (1 full clip), idle-mix enrichment screw at roughly 3/4 turns out.
Moderator at drriders.com: You can run the GSXR system with no jet kit as long as you do not alter the air box. I would suggest you at least shim the stock needle .030 to .040".
mrfreeze on thumpertalk forum: Standard jetting ,just richened up the idle mixture and engine came to life. I put the needle up 1 clip and it was bogging in heavy traffic due to running a bit rich , no difference on open road execpt using more fuel. Dropped needle back to standard and bike is smooth as.
There's no need to remove your carbie to do any jetting mods (from mx_rob on thumpertalk forum). You can just pivot the carb both directions still mounted in the manifold/air boot (just loosen the clamps obvously). Tilt the top of the carb to the left to remove the slide to access the needle. Tilt the top to the right to access the pilot screw easier. Just remove the screw holding the rear brake fluid well and remove the cables... in fact you don't have to remove the throttle cables... just loosen the cable ties holding them to the frame backbone to allow them to swing out away from the frame without tweaking them. The choke cable, however, should be removed. Easy, 12mm open end wrench and it unscrews from the side of the carb. If you don't the POS plastic cable guide will bust into several useless pieces.
CHECK THAT HEADER WELD
At the header flange, where the exhaust pipe meets the cylinder head, there is often a big glob of weld. If your DR650 has this, then you can file it back to improve exhaust flow. Might have just been on older models, but worth checking while you've got your mid-pipe off.
B1 screwed with this post 10-13-2011 at 01:48 PM Reason: new link
|06-14-2011, 05:02 AM||#2|
Joined: Nov 2004
Location: West Virginia
Very good information johnnok! I'd like to also add that the 2000 and 2001 Suzuki GSXR100 X40FOX Titanium muffler can also be fitted to the KLR650. My muffler was purchased off eBay for $25 and it included the stock GSXR1000 midpipe. I was able to sell the GSXR midpipe for $25 which netted me a free 3.8lb titanium muffler. Still can't believe that deal. I purchased a DR650 flange ($15) from KienTech and a KLR650 stainless steel midpipe ($99.95) from Hindle. What a difference! I highly recommend this muffler. It never needs packing and has a great sound. Worth the effort!
My muffler sits a little further back on my 2008 KLR than I'd like. There is plenty of room for it and I plan to fix that!
|06-14-2011, 05:16 AM||#3|
Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Western Mass
While some money can be saved going the GSXR can route, the biggest problem is that the mid-pipe is not easily home fabricated. By the time you buy the mid pipe kit, and the can, you can end up very close to the price of a bolt on solution. Somebody here used a Yamaha WR450F can and it worked well, but I do not recall how he solved the mid-pipe issue...
Street bikes for the street. Dirt bikes for the dirt. Let's keep it that way.
|06-14-2011, 01:25 PM||#4|
Joined: May 2011
Location: Nth QLD, AU
For the people with the RS model (1990 - 1994. Not sold in the USA) the GSXR muffler is too big and won't fit without major surgery to create enough clearance with the tyre and sideplate.
In this location, a 5.30 tyre will hit and it needs to be moved out at least 3/4"
The only option for a slip on that I could find is a Marving, which are made in Italy. They are chrome steel and it weighs about 2 pounds heavier than the GSXR, but is still much lighter than the boat anchor twin system that was installed on the RS
They also make mufflers to suit newer model DR's, so they are another option.
|07-18-2011, 03:12 PM||#5|
Joined: Jun 2009
i still think some guys might shell out the big bucks though, if they want the same performance increase as an aftermarket pipe but keeping it far quieter and looking stock...
|10-19-2011, 08:05 PM||#6|
Joined: May 2011
i went w/the high-flow kientech to use w/a high-flow fmf powerbomb header, and it worked fine. i did have to trim the rubber grommet i the frame where the unit attaches, tho, to pull the pipe away from the shock a bit, and closer to the frame, so it wouldn't rub the shock spring:
regarding other aftermarket choices besides the gsxr can, i sourced a tsukigi can for the '01-'04 gsxr, and it's excellent - open design, not too loud, and does not need repacking. (pics also shown in the post i linked above.)
|10-20-2011, 08:15 PM||#7|
Joined: May 2002
Location: Colorado - Fort Collins
at this point I'd would not consider Hindle an option for anyone as that pipe has a very deep bend (too deep and it hits?). i'd go w/ the keintech option as that is a a known good pipe.
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