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Old 03-08-2010, 03:54 PM   #16
PackMule
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johngil
I have used the gold on my KTM's.

I'm reluctant to try them on the brokeback beemer only because of them being harder on the rotors. From the price sheets I have seen, I would need to sell my son and pimp out my wife to pay for a new set of rotors.

I'm sure I'm just being paranoid.

Hmm. I hadn't thought about it in that way. I'm not a heavy rear brake user, and I was shocked how quickly my stock rear pads got toasted (especially given the lousy amount of feedback and grip they provided). I presumed it was from the abrasiveness of mud/dirt/etc so I opted for the golds out back over the greens (or black).

I'll have to keep a good eye on the rotor wear now.
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Old 03-08-2010, 04:33 PM   #17
johngil OP
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Galfer Black Pads (GG rated)
If you are looking to upgrade your brakes without paying an upgraded price, Galfer black pads are the perfect choice for you. These GG rated pads out-perform most original equipment pads (which are usually G-rated only) by maintaining functionality at temperatures as high as 700 degrees. They offer extreme versatility with the ability to be used on both front and rear, and on both street and dirt with excellent effectiveness. These Semi-Metallic & Carbon pads offer great longevity while limiting rotor wear. These pads will give you a strong progressive feel allowing for a controlled braking modulation.
Composition: Semi-metal, Carbon Installation: Clean rotor surface & bed-in with easy braking first 60-120 miles.

Galfer Green Pads (GG rated)
If you need to stop on a dime, you better put on the 'Green'. The Kevlar-organic Green pads offer powerful, initial bite time after time with no fade. The versatility of these pads is unmatched. They can adjust to abrupt temperature and moisture changes and take little time to recover between braking. They can be used in all types of riding whether it is street, dirt, race, and any combination of each. These are better for an aggressive rider, since these offer one or two finger stopping power. For many riders, the ideal combination is using Galfer Green in the front with Galfer Black in the rear.
If rotor wear is of great concern, the Galfer green would be an optimum choice. They won't last quite as long as the black, OEM or the HH pads, but their soft, organic material composition causes minimal damage to the rotor surface.
Composition: Kevlar, Ceramics, Basalt Fibers Installation: Clean rotor surface (be extra diligent in cleaning if following an HH (Sintered) compound) & bed-in with easy braking first 60-120 miles.

Galfer HH Pads (HH rated)



These are the hottest pads on the market. This sintered metal & ceramic composition allows for the ultimate friction, making their stopping power unmatched. It will provide instant powerful braking intensity in any weather condition or speed. The ceramic coating on these pads disperses the heat evenly, keeping the brake fluid temperature lower. This minimizes brake fade. These pads also have a longer life span than most other pads because of the high metallic content. These HH pads are rougher on rotor surfaces but work with optimum performance on Galfer Brake Rotors and other high-carbon content discs. Despite this assumption, these pads have remained popular with the aggressive off-road and street riders and are supplied to many race teams.
Composition: Sintered Metal, Advanced Ceramics, Carbon Fibers Installation: Clean rotor surface & bed-in with easy braking first 60-120 miles.
Notes on rating of pad friction: Pad Friction levels are designated by the alphabet system... the further down the alphabet the higher the friction level and double letters is stronger than single letter designations (for example: GG has stronger friction than G rating).


johngil screwed with this post 03-08-2010 at 05:39 PM
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Old 03-08-2010, 06:14 PM   #18
PackMule
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That'll learn me for going with the vendor's description instead of the manufacturer's...
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Yes, I have a Dakar problem -- that there are 50 weeks of the year without Dakar!

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Old 03-08-2010, 06:19 PM   #19
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Yeah but,,, "Don't worry. We sell rotors too."
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Old 03-08-2010, 06:30 PM   #20
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Yes, I have a Dakar problem -- that there are 50 weeks of the year without Dakar!

They don't expect you to finish. That's why it's the Dakar. -- PPiA
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Old 06-10-2010, 10:41 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johngil
CrazyMike, thanks for the info. I will ride Sunday and report back.

Where did you buy those pads from?
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Old 06-10-2010, 03:42 PM   #22
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CycleGear can get them on special order.
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Old 06-10-2010, 04:01 PM   #23
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I'm becoming a fan of http://www.cyclebrakes.com/ They're on top of it all. They emailed me to double check my order and then called when I returned some pads I no longer wanted to let me know they were received.

JohnGil, I put Galfer green front and back. Very nice feel and a lot smoother front end braking over stock and Galfer 'black'
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Old 06-10-2010, 04:56 PM   #24
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Found this. Looks like a decent price. Might order them from there when mine get thin.

http://www.happy-trail.com/Products/...spc-FD172.aspx

http://www.happy-trail.com/Products/...pc-FD_165.aspx
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Old 06-10-2011, 08:20 AM   #25
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Is it common for the rear brakes to wear off after just 5000 miles?
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Old 06-10-2011, 08:58 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by driftr View Post
Is it common for the rear brakes to wear off after just 5000 miles?
It certainly is possible depending on the road conditions. I've heard stories of rear brakes wearing out in less than 1000 miles when riding through rock dust or ash... Some people may accidentally drag their rear brake a bit without noticing it if they are riding in heavy boots.

Check out this thread too: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=692697
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Old 06-10-2011, 02:58 PM   #27
lmclamore
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I am at 10000 miles on original pads front and rear. They are wearing at the same rate. I have 2000-3000 miles to go before replacement is necessary based on that consumption rate. I do know where to measure pad thickness.
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Old 06-13-2011, 01:10 AM   #28
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Man, you boys are rough on brake pads. I am at 45,000 miles and have only went thru one set of pads. Looking at mine today (was last changed at 30,150 miles) I got plenty left.

I did not remove the calapers (can't speel) or the wheel when changing pads, just pulled them off, push the pucks back in with a screwdriver and put the new ones in - no big deal - maybe 5 minute tops to change all pads.

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Old 06-15-2011, 05:17 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Cowboy2 View Post
Man, you boys are rough on brake pads. I am at 45,000 miles and have only went thru one set of pads. Looking at mine today (was last changed at 30,150 miles) I got plenty left.

I did not remove the calapers (can't speel) or the wheel when changing pads, just pulled them off, push the pucks back in with a screwdriver and put the new ones in - no big deal - maybe 5 minute tops to change all pads.

TheCowboy
Some of us have a few more reasons to stop than others Cowboy. In my case, most of my miles are in bumper to bumper traffic, stop and go, 80 miles a day. Hard on brakes is right...and nerves. At least I'm on two wheels though!
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Old 06-16-2011, 10:57 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowboy2 View Post
...

I did not remove the calapers (can't speel) or the wheel when changing pads, just pulled them off, push the pucks back in with a screwdriver and put the new ones in - no big deal - maybe 5 minute tops to change all pads.
TheCowboy
Well dang ... had not thought about doing it that way...
Bahhhhhhhhh too easy....

So you were able to slide the new pads up in-between the rotor and the caliper and get it all lined up with the caliper still in place eh?
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