Airhead "Tips and Tricks"

[camgregus]

jeez the frequently asked question is how to put it back in....

[Claytonroy]

Originally Posted by mark1305

Heat certainly won't hurt - I'd go to just spit-sizzle hot but not much more. (I can't spit accurately so I flick water drops from my finger or small drops from a baby nose syringe).

Thanks Zebedee & mark1305...

It had been red Loc tite'd in the bad head, so I put it in toaster oven at 300F, then used the 2 bolt trick. The stud came out no problem.

Now I'm waiting for the Loc Tite to set up in the new head, so I can reinstall & proceed towards a running bike..

I appreciate your input!

[mark1305]

Glad you got it. Red Loctite can be a real PITA. I've read somewhere that 500F is needed to break it loose. Good to know that a little less can get the job done.

[Claytonroy]

Originally Posted by mark1305

Glad you got it. Red Loctite can be a real PITA. I've read somewhere that 500F is needed to break it loose. Good to know that a little less can get the job done.

I forgot to mention I'd shot it with PB Blaster several times in the last 48 hours. I've had really good luck with the PB.

The toaster oven is a handy item to have in the garage. While I was heating up the bad head to remove the stud, I doused the replacement (used) head w/ gasket remover + scraped off the old, stubborn valve cover gasket. I rinsed it off with the garden hose and put it back in the oven for 30 mins to dry it completely.

One oversight if I had to do it over. I would've had some cheddar cheese and a a loaf of a bread. I wasted time leaving the garage to feed myself lunch! Guess my next garage upgrade will be a mini-fridge..

[Zebedee]

Originally Posted by Claytonroy

...

Guess my next garage upgrade will be a mini-fridge..

Glad you get it sorted, but a mini fridge wouldn't cut it in my garage ...



John

[rkjjeep]

I was trying to find easy 12v power source on my 95 PD - didn't want to cut, splice, use scotch lock, etc. If your bike has the pigtail tucked up by the coil for clock you'll find a ground, an unswitched 12v and a switched 12v. I chose the switched 12v as i am running xm radio. I went to ground at the ignition module top bolt with a simple ring terminal.

The easy way to hook up to the connector if you don't have the connector half from a clock is to strip about 1/4 " insulation off your hot wire from your accessory, and then "tin" it with solder (so now you have a wire coated with solder). file it carefully so it's the perfect diameter to plug into the female - only took about a minute. Very secure and cover with tape. All easy to remove and no damage to original bits.

I will post pics of my XM radio install on a separate thread tonight.

[Zodiac]

I'm looking to shed the exhaust collector box on my 88 RS mono shock. The stock tail pipes and exhaust headers are fine and want to keep them. I haven't found any aftermarket full systems that aren't 2 into 1 (which I don't want).

So wondering if it's possible to get just 2 pipes, (even cheap flex to just try it out before going fabrication route) and go straight to the cans. This would mean there is no crossover after the one at the headers anymore. Anyone ever do this?



The collector can is in a state of rusting but the rest of the system is fine.

TIA

PS - Would a straight system from a twin shock (older RS) work? I know mine's 38mm exhaust port which is same as older RS...... (?)

[Beemerboff]

The origonal reason for the crossovers, or pre mufflers, was to enable more restrictive, read quieter, silencers to me fitted without loosing power, but over the years they have grown to be credited with supernatural powers, so expect the " experts " to chime in and tell you that you will create all sorts of problems with your engine.

Main problem will be that it will be a little noisier, and if you put on a dyno it may even be possible to measure a small loss in power, but probably only over 6000 RPM. But you still have the front pipe which should help.

Whether you would notice the difference on the road is another question - my GS runs better without the rear box, but I have a freer flowing Staintune can , I have heard that they struggle with stock , and no front balance pipe.

[outfit]

Part No.88593
"H" PIECE REPLACES COLLECTOR BOX. STAINLESS. ALL R80 / R100 MODELS 1985 ONWARDS. ( NOT PARALEVER MODELS )

£108.

Motorworks or motobins

[outfit]

Part No.88593
"H" PIECE REPLACES COLLECTOR BOX. STAINLESS. ALL R80 / R100 MODELS 1985 ONWARDS. ( NOT PARALEVER MODELS )

£108.

Motorworks or motobins

[outfit]

Part No.88593
"H" PIECE REPLACES COLLECTOR BOX. STAINLESS. ALL R80 / R100 MODELS 1985 ONWARDS. ( NOT PARALEVER MODELS )

£108.

Motorworks or motobins

[Zodiac]

Originally Posted by outfit

Part No.88593
"H" PIECE REPLACES COLLECTOR BOX. STAINLESS. ALL R80 / R100 MODELS 1985 ONWARDS. ( NOT PARALEVER MODELS )

£108.

Motorworks or motobins

Awesome, thanks very much

[Zodiac]

I want to replace my 2 oil cooler lines (rubber) on my R 100RS, mainly because the connections are rusted, corroded, especially at the oil filter cover.

Does anyone know a place that makes em in flexi stainless steel to fit/custom, or a source that sells them pre made in sizes that fit metric/BMW connections?

I guess I could try making myself but I think there's a crimper I don't have for that job, etc.

Any advice welcome.
__________________

[green hell]

Originally Posted by mark1305

Glad you got it. Red Loctite can be a real PITA. I've read somewhere that 500F is needed to break it loose. Good to know that a little less can get the job done.

at work and home, i've had better luck with the blue or purple (which is for small fasteners). we only use the red on things that absolutely, positively should never come apart.

the purple loctite does work well on larger fasteners if they are cleaned and torqued properly, plus you can break them free when you have to.

[green hell]

Originally Posted by Zodiac

I want to replace my 2 oil cooler lines (rubber) on my R 100RS, mainly because the connections are rusted, corroded, especially at the oil filter cover.

Does anyone know a place that makes em in flexi stainless steel to fit/custom, or a source that sells them pre made in sizes that fit metric/BMW connections?

I guess I could try making myself but I think there's a crimper I don't have for that job, etc.

Any advice welcome.
__________________

check to see if there is a parker hannifin distributor around you, or a similar hydraulics fab shop.