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Old 06-20-2010, 04:21 PM   #16
dfwscotty
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Old 08-03-2011, 08:04 PM   #17
Manatee2000
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08 1200 gsa

I have been all over the place and the bike has always run hot. 105 degrees coming into LA the bars were maxed out. No light comes on to show it over heating only shows loss of oil presure. Asked the dealer in California and they said that there was no way to have it over heat. ? They had told me that on of the test for the BMW cop bikes was to leave it at idle all day at 100 degrees.

Usually it runs 2 bars from the top running at speeds from 75 to 90. on an 80 degree day. Runs hotter when I go slow like 5 to 10 mph.

I did take it to my dealer here in Denver and they shot the oil cooler with the gauge and we watched the temperature go up then down when the oil cooler kicked in. Not sure what to think.
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Old 08-03-2011, 08:28 PM   #18
def
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If you suspect that your oilhead is running the oil hot, I would consider synthetic engine oil. Synthetics tolerate much higher oil temperatures than non-synthetics. The Noack score tell how various oils cook as temperatures are elevated. Oil cook-off leads to varnish and sludge as well as an increase in viscosity, all bad things.

Some oils foam thereby entraining air in the oil which leads to poor cooling and elevated temperatures.

Also, your oil filter may be bypassing oil. This could lead to variations in temperature.

Make sure that your engine internals are clean and varnish free. I have seen some air cooled engines that were badly varnished after a few thousand miles...the Ducati 620 comes to mind. If you suspect your engine is not pristine inside, run an additive...I like Rislone engine treatment. It will clean up a varnished engine.

Many of us boxer riders use Mobil1 15w-50 in our 1100s and 1150s but follow your MOMs recommendations regarding viscosity for your model.
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Old 08-03-2011, 10:02 PM   #19
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My 05 R1200GS will often temp up to halfway with the red triangle flashing and the oil symbol flashing when I'm stuck in traffic on a hot day. The engine starts to rattle, too, when it's hot.
It did it before I changed the oil 100 miles ago and it does it now. I have Mobil1 15W-50. Oh, 48,400 miles on the clock. There is a Kildala oil cooler guard, too.
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Old 08-04-2011, 09:32 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Manatee2000 View Post
Asked the dealer in California and they said that there was no way to have it over heat. ? They had told me that on of the test for the BMW cop bikes was to leave it at idle all day at 100 degrees.
IIRC the cop bikes have a larger oil cooler and maybe even a fan....
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Old 08-04-2011, 09:39 AM   #21
Lobby
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The better oil temperature management of the hexhead motors is one of the huge reasons to upgrade from an oilhead motor. In my humble opinion.

I hated seeing the bars on my 1150's temp display climb upwards during stop and go traffic. On the 12GS, this doesn't happen.
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:30 AM   #22
JimVonBaden
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Originally Posted by Lobby View Post
The better oil temperature management of the hexhead motors is one of the huge reasons to upgrade from an oilhead motor. In my humble opinion.

I hated seeing the bars on my 1150's temp display climb upwards during stop and go traffic. On the 12GS, this doesn't happen.


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Old 08-04-2011, 01:14 PM   #23
Emoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lobby View Post
The better oil temperature management of the hexhead motors is one of the huge reasons to upgrade from an oilhead motor. In my humble opinion.

I hated seeing the bars on my 1150's temp display climb upwards during stop and go traffic. On the 12GS, this doesn't happen.
(2005 R1200GS)

Yes, ordinarily, the temp gage stays below 1/2 on mine, even in slow, heavy traffic like I ran into in the heat on the way to the MOA national (BTW Jim, I looked for you at cyclenutz a couple of times, but you weren't around. next time).

But, in one extreme (and I do not use the term loosely) traffic jam last year, mine did get really hot. Surprised the hell out of me. Pulled over and let it cool down some. Then rode on and it was ok.

So, one in 6 years isn't bad, but it can happen.
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Old 08-04-2011, 01:58 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by bobcopro View Post
I have never had my 1200GS overheat, even in standing Boston Traffic at 98 degrees (I overheated though!) I have also never had my oil warning light come on. Your bike is both air and oil cooled. These things consume vast quantities of oil when they're new. Make sure you check your oil level very frequently as you can't cool the engine oil if it doesn't have any. If it happened again, I would have the dealer make sure your oil cooler under the headlight is not blocked in any way.
You're at sea level. Do this at altitude and it WILL overheat. DAMHIK...
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Old 08-04-2011, 02:03 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by def View Post
If you suspect that your oilhead is running the oil hot, I would consider synthetic engine oil. Synthetics tolerate much higher oil temperatures than non-synthetics. The Noack score tell how various oils cook as temperatures are elevated. Oil cook-off leads to varnish and sludge as well as an increase in viscosity, all bad things.

Some oils foam thereby entraining air in the oil which leads to poor cooling and elevated temperatures.

Also, your oil filter may be bypassing oil. This could lead to variations in temperature.

Make sure that your engine internals are clean and varnish free. I have seen some air cooled engines that were badly varnished after a few thousand miles...the Ducati 620 comes to mind. If you suspect your engine is not pristine inside, run an additive...I like Rislone engine treatment. It will clean up a varnished engine.

Many of us boxer riders use Mobil1 15w-50 in our 1100s and 1150s but follow your MOMs recommendations regarding viscosity for your model.
620's run unbelievably hot. I do not understand why Ducati didn't fit a cooler on these bikes. They heat up and fast! I changed the oil on the wifes bike often because of this...
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Old 08-04-2011, 06:06 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lobby View Post
The better oil temperature management of the hexhead motors is one of the huge reasons to upgrade from an oilhead motor. In my humble opinion.

I hated seeing the bars on my 1150's temp display climb upwards during stop and go traffic. On the 12GS, this doesn't happen.
It does on mine. Stop and go traffic in the summer time, I hit the hash mark routinely. Only once did I have the oil light flicker, stuck in a downtown DC clusterfuck in the middle of summer. Convinced me to switch to synthetic oil.

Cools down quickly with a little forward motion.
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Old 08-05-2011, 01:23 AM   #27
island808
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I was in traffic for a couple hours, stopped, didn't even think about the substandard cooling of the bike for about 30-45 minutes.. and I mean I was stop stopped dead only moving when someone in front decided to pull a u turn and try to go home.. The road was closed, not jammed. There was a light breeze from behind not getting into that minuscule boxed in oil cooler at all.

Anyway, at about 30-45 min, looked down and it was the first time I ever saw 5 bars, but it was quickly up to 6 and I, not being in any kind of hurry to sit still in traffic, shut the bike down and took a smoke break by the side of the road and phoned into work, etc. Got sick of walking the bike so I decided to take advantage of my decision not to use the typical street touring tires adored by most and cut towards the inside lane and came at the curb as perpendicular as I could and rode the median (as I was making a left and going past the shutdown on=ramp to a small business park, not trying to get down island). Circled the block for about 5 miles before the temp went back down to 4 bars though.

Since then, it likes to see 5 bars occasionally, where as it never used to, even in slow off roading for hours. Maybe the thermostat gets "broken in" or just broken.

As far as synthetic oil transferring heat more readily, I can't find a thing on that. Well, other than other than people in forums. I'm sure snake oil salesmen like amsoil and purple would make claims, but I'll take my claims from people that don't fall for pyramid schemes thanks..
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Old 08-05-2011, 02:46 AM   #28
rvt
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don't know about 1200 but...

Assuming the lamp is for oil pressure, surely this should never come on, except for the brief moment after startup while it builds pressure?

If it is indicating low pressure, the oil is either REALLY thin, or worse, low. Of course, if it was low, the light would probably stay on and the motor would self destruct...
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Old 08-06-2011, 12:17 AM   #29
island808
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Assuming the lamp is for oil pressure, surely this should never come on, except for the brief moment after startup while it builds pressure?

If it is indicating low pressure, the oil is either REALLY thin, or worse, low. Of course, if it was low, the light would probably stay on and the motor would self destruct...
Your oil can't get that thin. If the light went on, the sump was dry or it was a temp light. My experience left me with about 500 ml of oil burn in that 2 hours of traffic sitting, and I was shutting off my engine. Luckily I was full when I set out, but was below sightglass when I got to work.
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Old 08-06-2011, 06:57 AM   #30
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Since then, it likes to see 5 bars occasionally, where as it never used to, even in slow off roading for hours. Maybe the thermostat gets "broken in" or just broken.

As far as synthetic oil transferring heat more readily, I can't find a thing on that. Well, other than other than people in forums.
If your oil temp now routinely reads a bit higher, your oil might have increased in vis, changing the flow rate through the cooling circuit.

As for synthetics cooling better, I have no information that this is so. However, synthetics do tolerate much higher temperatures without cook-off. The Noack scores indicate that. Also, synthetics maintain vis over a wider temperature range...all good reasons to use synthetic in our boxers.
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