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Old 02-27-2011, 11:19 PM   #61
enzorover
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First of all, happy birthday!

Second...so all that happened was that the positive jumper grounded against the frame? If that's the case, the only thing you've done is direct shorted your negative battery lead. I'm not sure where these diodes are that you're talking about... I imagine this bike has a generator and not an alternator so there aren't any diodes there. There's a capacitor in the ignition but, that should not have been effected (affected?) by the short. Neither of those two things should be in the starter circuit anyway.

I'd suggest you check that negative lead. Obviously, look at the connections at the battery and the frame but also look at the wires going into the connections. What you might have is a partly fried cable. There is just enough connection to allow the lights and horn to work but not enough to pass the amperage your starter wants. This will drive you nuts with an ohmmeter. It'll read continuity because there is not enough current going through the wires. I've also seen it where the connections look ok but all the wires in between are partially fried.

If the negative cable looks good check the positive. If they're both ok, try directly jumping the starter to see if it still works. It could be something completely unrelated to the jumper falling off, too. Check the actual starter button by jumping accross the wires going into it. Does the starter relay click? Jump accross the relay to see if it still works.

**BTW, all these "jumping" actions (with the exception of jumping the starter) should be done with a fused jumper lead.**
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Old 02-28-2011, 09:56 AM   #62
backdrifter OP
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Thanks for the response, enzo.

Yes, all I did was touch the positive lead to the frame. The bike grounds directly to the frame. The positive and negative leads and connectors looks fine, and are passing current (based on my very rudimentary circuit tester - I'm not even using an ohm meter). I have current to the starter solenoid, across the solenoid, and into the starter relay, from what I can tell. I have not uncoiled the rats-nest of wires that go into the diode board, but I have a strong feeling that that is where things went wrong. The diode board looks quite a bit more fragile than anything else around it. I did try jumping directly to the starter - nothing. No, there is no starter relay click in any situation that I've tried so far. I don't have a fused jumper lead, so I can't try some of the suggestions you mentioned.

I need to set aside an hour or two to go at it again, but just haven't had the chance lately. Hopefully later this week....
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=608166

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Old 02-28-2011, 11:11 AM   #63
Hawk Medicine
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[QUOTE=enzorover;15298345]

I'm not sure where these diodes are that you're talking about... I imagine this bike has a generator and not an alternator so there aren't any diodes there.

No alternator on a /5? Both of mine had em...
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Old 02-28-2011, 11:23 AM   #64
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[QUOTE=mymindsok;15301382]
Quote:
Originally Posted by enzorover View Post

I'm not sure where these diodes are that you're talking about... I imagine this bike has a generator and not an alternator so there aren't any diodes there.

No alternator on a /5? Both of mine had em...
Yes, mine has an alternator as well.

FYI, Enzo is a good friend of mine - very mechanically inclined too. You should see the Land Rover that he built from scratch. Hell, why not see it, here it is:



Like me, he is just a little green when it comes to airheads, though I would put money on him figuring his way around one before I do!

As for the diodes, there is a complete diode board wired after the starter. It looks like a small, antiquated circuit board. Like I said, I haven't confirmed yet, but I really think the diode board is what I fried.
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=608166
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Old 02-28-2011, 06:33 PM   #65
Hawk Medicine
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Damn....!

The only thing wrong with that truck is it's way too clean!

Yes, That circuit looking thing is the Diode Board and yes, it's very important if you need the bike to run. Since you think you might have fried it, (And you probably did.) you now have the choice of buying or begging a good one from some Airhead, replacing it with a new one or repairing the one you have.

If you decide to replace it, check out the one here: http://www.motoelekt.com/charging.htm

Now... if you want to fix your fried board.... Remember that guy who owns the overly clean monster truck? well, I'll bet he knows all about diodes!
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Old 03-04-2011, 04:18 PM   #66
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OK, quick question:

I'm assuming the "connector block" in the electrical wiring diagram for the Clymer manual is the same as the diode board? I'm thinking it must be, otherwise they left the diode board out of the diagram!
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Old 03-06-2011, 12:45 PM   #67
bmwblake
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the connector block is the shared connection board inside the headlight shell. i checked my haynes manual and it shows the diode board.



Quote:
Originally Posted by backdrifter View Post
OK, quick question:

I'm assuming the "connector block" in the electrical wiring diagram for the Clymer manual is the same as the diode board? I'm thinking it must be, otherwise they left the diode board out of the diagram!

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Old 03-07-2011, 12:16 AM   #68
enzorover
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[QUOTE=backdrifter;15301468]
Quote:
Originally Posted by mymindsok View Post

Yes, mine has an alternator as well.

FYI, Enzo is a good friend of mine - very mechanically inclined too. You should see the Land Rover that he built from scratch. Hell, why not see it, here it is:



Like me, he is just a little green when it comes to airheads, though I would put money on him figuring his way around one before I do!

As for the diodes, there is a complete diode board wired after the starter. It looks like a small, antiquated circuit board. Like I said, I haven't confirmed yet, but I really think the diode board is what I fried.


Thanks for the shout-out, buddy!
Yeah, I don't really know anything about airheads. I just assumed that they had generators but if someone says they have alternators then okey-dokey...

I'd really have to see a wiring diagram to properly diagnose any gremlins but I can't imagine how a diode block would prevent the starter from working. I guess I could see how it could keep it from running if it's somehow tied into the ignition circuit though. Perhaps it's my thick headedness getting in the way but I fail to see how a jumper cable grounding against the frame could fry any wires other than the ground...

As for your battery cables, I have absolutely no doubt that they are passing current but would question if they're passing enough current. I tihnk of electricity like water. A garden hose will absolutely pass water through it but would not be adequate to put out a big fire because it won't pass enough water.
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Old 08-05-2011, 01:25 PM   #69
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Well, in keeping with the slowness that I promised, I figured five months is long enough since my last post to warrant an update! In my last update I was having an electrical issue. Still am, and narrowed it down to either a fried regulator or a fried starter relay. I've decided to swap both out. I'll determine which was the offending part and keep the other part as a spare.

Nothing done to the bike yet, but I did allocate a lump of cash towards working on the bike. And once I had that, I went shopping. I ordered:

Machined top clamp and exhaust tool from San Jose BMW:







The top clamp is a nice piece, and very attractively priced too. I think it will do a nice job of stiffening up the front end. A photo showing the difference between the stock top clamp and the SJBMW top clamp:



I also ordered (but haven't yet received):

New Dunstall sytle silencers
Complete stainless steel nut, bolt, and fastener kit
Complete engine gasket and o-ring kit
Oil filter
Starter relay
Voltage regulator
New BMW tank emblems with gaskets
Progressive fork springs
IKON shocks
Front and rear brake shoes
Locking tank cap
Instrument cluster chrome ring/gasket
Chrome key switch assembly
Signal indicator light for headlight (managed to break mine somehow)

The silencers were off of eBay. Cheap, but nice looking. I was willing to take a chance on them for the price. All the other parts listed are coming from BMW Hucky, and I probably won't have them for another week or so.

As I said, nothing new on the bike since my last post, but I hate posting updates without pics, so here are a few more photos of the bike:







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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=608166
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Old 08-05-2011, 02:09 PM   #70
Sniper X
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Love the project! I have a 1970 that is still in good shape. I like the black Toaster tank and one day hope to find one. I love my stock big tank though!

Rode it today actually.
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Old 08-05-2011, 02:38 PM   #71
trophymoto
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you do know you will have to chop the headlight ears with that top triple clamp.
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Old 08-05-2011, 03:23 PM   #72
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Quote:
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you do know you will have to chop the headlight ears with that top triple clamp.
I was going to say that but wasn't sure how he would do it. Bummer....I vote for a extra set of ears......
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Old 08-05-2011, 04:57 PM   #73
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Nice bike, Sniper X, thanks for sharing!

Quote:
Originally Posted by trophymoto View Post
you do know you will have to chop the headlight ears with that top triple clamp.
Yep. Not too concerned about it. A clean cut and you'll never be able to tell. I plan to cut off the bottom. I've always thought the headlight is mounted just a bit too high. A bit of a cut off the bottom of the ears will help that some.
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1973 BMW R60/5:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=608166

backdrifter screwed with this post 08-05-2011 at 06:05 PM
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Old 08-05-2011, 09:23 PM   #74
wirewrkr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backdrifter View Post
Nice bike, Sniper X, thanks for sharing!



Yep. Not too concerned about it. A clean cut and you'll never be able to tell. I plan to cut off the bottom. I've always thought the headlight is mounted just a bit too high. A bit of a cut off the bottom of the ears will help that some.
Stop!
dON'T DO IT!
I tried that on a /6 and nothing fit right.
Do it from the top. TRUST me.
If you do decide to do it your way, PM when you want to buy some /5 ears so you can do it right.
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Old 08-06-2011, 12:02 PM   #75
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Thanks for the advice, wirewrkr. I'm happy to learn from others mistakes, so I'll keep to cutting off of the top of the ears. Thanks again!
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1973 BMW R60/5:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=608166
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