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Old 08-19-2011, 11:32 PM   #1486
rtwdoug OP
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Location: Alabamski Oblast, Redneckistan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Macadam Drifter View Post
Doug,

Thanks for this wonderful RR.

Since Oct 2010 I have been in incarerated at Seattle's SCCA for cancer treatments.

This RR has been a big part of what help me keep going for quite a few months.

Thanks for sharing, enjoy your journey and be safe.

Mkd
Hey Macadam,
Im sorry to hear that, but I hope the treatment is going good, and you'll be back on your bike soon.

I cant figure out why some people really seem to like my RR's, I mean I know Im not a great writer, picture taker, bike rider, well hell, much of anything really.
I guess my dad WAS right! I didnt amount to shit!

I do appreciate it tho, and next time I'm sitting along the road,, trying to figure out how to fix whatever the current problem is, I will think of you, stuck there the last 10 months, & realize that even tho I'm 1000 miles from anywhere, the cell fone lost signal, its getting dark, & the bears are sniffin around, I still have no reason to complain.

Get well soon!

Doug

oh, and I will do an update tonite, just for you!

(ok, I was going to do one anyhow, well, at least I was thinking about doing one, but now I will, for sure, unless I lose power in this empty village, or the cell loses signal, or the bears come sniffin around)

But, barring any of that, I will! Just for you!
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Old 08-20-2011, 01:39 AM   #1487
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Wicked

I got to Osh ok, but wasn’t really sure what to expect, as they had a small war here last year between the Kyrg’s & Uzbeks. I had contacted Vladimir, his fone number was given to me by Klaus, the German guy I met in Tajik.
He met me along with his friend Julia, and they took me to a nice small hotel, Tes Guesthouse. Good parking, wifi, & price was good..
Julia called me a little later, & invited me to dinner. It seems theres a tradition here, when someone builds a new house, they invite all their friends & neighbors to a banquet, and I was invited also. We got to the big hall, musta been 350 people there..Tables were loaded with food & drinks, all free, so of course several people drank too much.
They had traditional singers & dancers, and other entertainment (not to mention the drunks)
It was fun, and being the only foreigner there, I got to meet a lot of people, and get my picture taken many times.
When we were leaving, Julia’s mom was there, and she had also been drinking a bit. We got a cab for her & her friend, then she smacks me, points in my face & is sorta yelling at me. I’m totally clueless, Julia is laughing. It turns out that she is telling us to behave ourselves, once she is gone and unable to keep an eye on us.
It was funny. The next day, after Julia told her what she did, she was really embarrassed. Hahaha

Heres Julia & her bike


And here some pics of the gala



Shaf, the guy that put this on

Julia, her mom and Shaf
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Old 08-20-2011, 01:40 AM   #1488
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The next morning, Julia had volunteered to be my tour guide for Osh. I was curious about the war, which only lasted a couple weeks. Basically it was kyrgs & Uzbeks, she said it was mostly gangs of young kyrgs, out after the Uzbeks. I didn’t get all the details, but it must have been pretty nasty, as theres A LOT of burnt buildings, houses & businesses.
I cant tell a kyrg from an uzbek by looking at them, but seems they can. We went to the market & looked around some. On the way there was this Marco Polo store, which was an outdoors store, selling hunting, fishing, camping gear. All that was left was the front. The rest was gone, they broke in, stole all the guns & stuff, & burned it.


All around are burnt buildings, but otherwise, the town seemed pretty normal. Things have calmed down. Julia is Russian, so they were ok, but basically had to stay in their house for a couple weeks




parts of the market area were gone, she said about ½ of it was destroyed

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Old 08-20-2011, 01:42 AM   #1489
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This sign says Peace on Earth, behind it is all blackened.




This place has KYRG OWNED written on it, so it wouldn’t get burned/looted




Yummy! Cow legs!



In the middle of town is a big rock mountain, with a monastery at the top, nice views from up here











That nite we went to California Pizza, a place owned by an American, & they have really good food.
Julia, Vladimir, Susan & Danny (I think that was her name?) and an Austrian guy on a BMW, forget his name, sorry!

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Old 08-20-2011, 01:45 AM   #1490
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The next morning, I headed north to Bishkek. It’s a hot windy road, and the shortest way is thru a bit of Uzbekistan, but as I didn’t feel like dealing with borders, I went around it, arguing with the GPS the whole way, which did its best to get me totally lost!
But I finally got on the right road. Theres a long ride thru a canyon, pretty ride, but hard to make good time. I finally got around a huge lake, & found a town with sort of a hotel right as it was getting dark. A room was 3.00, and I’d say it was overpriced. Horrible place, but it was my only option.







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Old 08-20-2011, 03:01 AM   #1491
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After hotel hell, you climb a long valley, very green & beautiful. Finally, it crosses the mountains at a very high pass, surrounded by nomads living in yurts, with herds of animals around. It was awesome to see. I wasn’t expecting Kyrg to be as beautiful as it is.



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Old 08-20-2011, 03:08 AM   #1492
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I had to stop for gas, this village has about 10 different ‘gas stations’ selling 5-10 liter bottles of gas. Of course I had to screw up the whole system, as I wanted 8, which really confused the poor girl.
She was doing all kinds of figuring with the bottle to make sure I only got 8 liters, and not a drop more.


After this, up another pass…..


I met a couple guys riding from Bishkek, they showed me on a map where a bike shop was, as I wanted to charge my battery before hitting the border.

A couple other guys were parked at the overlook in a car, having lunch. They were amazed that I was from the US, and offered me a piece of horse steak. It wasn’t too bad. Then they offered me horse sausage. Hmmm, I could tell it wasn’t horse sausage, it was the sausage part of the horse!
Its something of a delicacy here, and although I’d never considered eating a slice of horse penis before, I figured what the hell, it’ll be a fun story to tell back home, & watch people turn green with envy. (or green from disgust…..) anyhow, it was actually pretty greasy, and I’d not suggest it to others. The bikers said I should be honored because they offered it to me. I said I’da been more honored had they offered a good cheeseburger, but what the hell…..
Sorry I didn’t think to take a picture to share with you. At the top was a long, dark tunnel, water on the bottom, several potholes, it wasn’t much fun. Out the other side, & down thru a canyon.

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Old 08-20-2011, 03:09 AM   #1493
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My first roadkill worth stopping to take a picture of, a crow. I hit him with my left handlebar, the clutch lever protected my hand, but didn’t help him out so much.


At the Bishkek bike shop, which was really more of a car shop, but the owner had a bike, and he was happy to let me charge my battery


After this, I head to the border with Kazakhstan, just north of town
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Old 08-20-2011, 03:45 AM   #1494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtwdoug View Post
Yummy! Cow legs!
Those cloven hoofs used to be attached to bacon, not hamburger.

Nice photos.
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Old 08-20-2011, 04:05 AM   #1495
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Originally Posted by gelandestrasse View Post
Those cloven hoofs used to be attached to bacon, not hamburger.

Nice photos.
oops, well, still as yummy I bet
I was very careful to not get the other cart in the picture, as it had the bellies, & they still had nipples on them
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Old 08-20-2011, 04:07 AM   #1496
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I got thru the border rather easily, after Mr Club cleared a path thru the masses.
I breezed thru the Kaz side, which later, I would learn I breezed thru a little TOO easily.
On to Almaty, where my new alternator was waiting. Kaz is boring. Its mostly flat, or rolling hills. Theres some mountains south of Almaty, but I didn’t get down there to them. People are really nice tho, every time I stop, they all want to talk to me. On the way, I met David, a Swiss heading to Kyrg. He was low on gas, so I gave him a liter (but found out later it wasn’t enough, he ran out 6km before the next station!)
Not a lot of gas stations here, not a lot of anything, really. But, was still sort of interesting. I hadn’t been on more than 5km of straight road in weeks. Theres a lot of straight road here!
I got to Almaty about dark, & went to visit Yeldos, who has a nice restaurant here called Eldoro, and also met up with Andrej from Finland, who I hadn’t seen since 09, when I was in Korea.

David & his GS


Yeldos, his wife Alona, & Andrej

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Old 08-20-2011, 04:08 AM   #1497
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Great RR, and sense of Humor.

Well Doug you remind me, what biking is all about, having good time and fun.

Keep it going.

Regards
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Old 08-20-2011, 04:10 AM   #1498
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I was supposed to meet Nick from Italy in Uzbek, who was bringing my parts from Roland in Hungary. But HIS alternator fried in western Kazakh, and he is waiting on parts, so yeldos had my parts flown in to Almaty. The next morning, he takes me to a bike shop, where I can work on the bike.
I got it apart ok


Hmmm what could be bad? That buildup of charcoal may be a hint…. I’d never seen one cooked this bad, but then I’d never seen anyone drive 2000 miles with a bad stator before….



I brought this special Barnett clutch spring tool along, Im sure glad I did! The only tool I didn’t have with me was an air impact gun, the shop let me use theirs



Seems others have been here before me……



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Old 08-20-2011, 04:16 AM   #1499
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So the bike is all fixed up, and has fresh oil. I hit the road in the morning for the bike party in Balkhash, 650km north.

Once I finally find the main road to Astana, things go pretty smoothly. Flat & pretty boring road tho, but its smooth, and not too much traffic.
My bug juicer is working as planned


The only tree for 200 miles


Fancy graveyards


Lake balkhash, its huge.


You see many memorials for people who died at that spot in a car crash, they will have some flowers, & maybe a steering wheel or car part on them. This must have been where a bike rider died, whith pieces of his bike.
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Old 08-20-2011, 04:29 AM   #1500
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I pull down the road to get to the shore resort type place where the party is, & see a guy on the phone. His bike has an Alabama plate on it. WTF??
So I stop, and believe it or not, it was my friend Vladimir, from 2500km away in Russia! I had given him the plate 2 years ago! Hahahaha
We both freaked out, as it was kinda weird to meet up here. So we went to the party, he had a cabin rented & invited me to stay with him.


It turned out that there were A LOT of people here that I knew, about 20. and more than that who knew who I was.



Many girls, as normal for these shindigs.


And a booby contest, the blonde won (she was an Alex Haley blonde)



How did a Hungarian Duna sidecar get here?


And just some random party pics…..
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