![]() |
11-29-2010, 05:20 AM
|
#16 |
|
mc caregiver
Joined: May 2007
Location: Garland, Texas
Oddometer: 2,606
|
economy:
heavier PS shock spring from a member fresh shock oil & nitrogen charge for the forks, added 1 1/4"? pre load & fresh ATF oil |
|
|
12-07-2010, 09:11 AM
|
#17 |
|
...........
Joined: Oct 2006
Location: NOVA
Oddometer: 74
|
I have a question regarding hard braking front end dive and a slight pull to the left on a stock Dr I just purchased. It's an 09 un-molested stock bike. I owned one previously and I know it is weakly sprung in the front I also had performed fork and shock up grades on it, ebach straight gauge springs and emulaters. I can't remember if this is nomal for the stock set up or what. Could the fork tubes be slightly tweeked in the triple or what. Thanks in advance
|
|
|
12-09-2010, 12:24 PM
|
#18 | |
|
Redbear Rides
Joined: Jul 2001
Location: San Ramon, CA
Oddometer: 158
|
Fork replacement guidelines
Snowy,
You have provided much entertainment and quality build information for us all. Thanks. One thing that keeps me wondering is the talk of replacing DR forks with RMZ or DRZ or KTM forks. Can you give us a concise list of the changes that are necessary to do these swaps. For instance, for DRZ to DR will the triple tree just swap across without mods to the frame bearings? What about for RMZ and KTM. I guess I am looking for an idea about the extent of mods that are needed for each. Are there some years that are better? I would attempt a swap if things just bolt together but I don't really have the means to do machining or welding. I believe you also have a DR350S. I have the same question for a DRZ to DR350S. Quote:
__________________
"The Ride is the Reason" 1998 Suzuki DR350SE Bearcub 1995 BMW R1100GS Redbear 2001 Suzuki DRZ400S Yellowbear 1981 Suzuki GS850G 1980 Honda XR500 Big Red 2001 F650GS Dakar w/ Ural - Fast Kitty (Wife's Bike! ) Member: CCBR, AMA, BMWMOA, NRA, CRPA, CCRKBA Jay screwed with this post 12-09-2010 at 12:32 PM |
|
|
|
12-15-2010, 12:44 PM
|
#19 |
|
Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 2,607
|
Suspension threads
Thanks to Basketcase:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=35299 My stock forks (full extension) are 35 1/4" from the fork cap to the axle centerline. Factory lowered should be 33 3/4". Metric: stock; 89.5cm: lowered; 85.7cm Stock fork spring spacer: 37mm diameter (1.465") - 40mm tall (1.58") The stock DR shock is 455mm long with 128mm travel. (info from another inmate) Stock rear spring rate is 6.5kg/mm Stock shock preload: 10.0" (253.5mm) Softest 9.7" (247.5mm) Standard 9.4" (238.5mm) Stiffest Stock links are 4.5" center to center (115mm) Added: For fork oil I measure 19.1 oz and pour it in each leg (565ml), per the manual. It's easier than the (compress fork with spring out and measure down 6.5"). When I had the forks apart I drilled and tapped each fork cap, 1/8 NPT. Always use a cutting oil when tapping alum, WD-40 works fine. Ignore the fork being slipped up in the triple, it's just an experiment. ![]() Then I use one of these with a zip tie loose enough to slide up-n-down. Now I can adjust my oil level without disassembly, which came in handy when I put a 320mm rotor on the front. The brake works so much better that the fork dive with .45 Eibachs, was too much for my liking. Stock oil level is 16-1/8" (forks fully extended, with springs and caps installed), I added 20ml and ended up at 14-7/8". That's 1 1/4" or 5/8" per 10ml. You don't even have to move your handi-bars, way better than removing the springs and collapsing the forks everytime you want to experiment with oil levels. ![]() Motion Pro P/N: 08-0121: ![]() Ignore the oil bubble:
__________________
2004 DR650: 47,033 miles of The last 314 miles were done with my super, hot rod, whiz-bang, blue KLIM Dakar gloves. Good thing I lost one of my 10 year old Joe Rocket gloves; I didn't know I could ride so fast. ER70S-2 screwed with this post 12-16-2012 at 02:22 PM |
|
|
12-29-2010, 07:30 AM
|
#20 |
|
MisAdventurer
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Location, location
Oddometer: 7
|
Some info on mounting RMZ forks to a DR650 can be found here:
http://hawkeye.ualr.edu/~ltjones/sho...rkinstall.html
abmwrydr screwed with this post 12-30-2010 at 04:08 PM Reason: RMZ forks on a DR |
|
|
03-17-2011, 09:14 PM
|
#21 |
|
What? Me hurry?
|
ElkElama Suspension (http://www.elkasuspension.com/) now offers a rear shock for the DR650.
TheFrenchCanadian shared his review of it, and how it stacks up against the Cogent- http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=45699 |
|
|
03-21-2011, 07:00 PM
|
#22 |
|
Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Chicago
Oddometer: 444
|
USD fork conversion
The front end of a YZ426 will also fit up nicely to the DR frame. There are three major challenges with converting to usd forks; the triple, front axle and brake caliper. And three less demanding items; speedo, headlight and ignition switch.
Surprisingly the DR triple stem is larger in diameter than the YZ (30mm vs 28mm), a problem easily solved by leaving the stock DR races in the frame and using the YZ bearings on the new triple. The YZ triple is a little longer than the DR so you will also have to come up with a spacer of about 12mm to get everything to fit snugly. The DR uses a smallish 17mm front axle while the YZ and many other dirt oriented bikes use a 20mm axle. The easiest solution is to simply mount up a matching front wheel to the forks you have chosen. Last item on the list is the brake caliper. Fortunately the DR uses a common design that will bolt right up to the YZ and I believe other models as well. The stock YZ rotor is 250mm vs the 290mm of the DR. An aftermarket EBC oversize rotor with mounting bracket measuring 280mm is readily available. Most of the usd forks have more travel (11"-12" vs 10.2") than the DR so the front end may be a little long after mounting everything up. Easily solved by sliding the forks slightly above the top triple and/or when rebuilding the shocks slimming down the bushings to lose a little height. Picture below of '01 YZ426 front end on my '03 DR. Since I was planning to convert from stock speedo to vapor no issues there. And rather than try to mount the stock headlight that I never liked anyway now is the time to draw up a plan for something new. ![]()
|
|
|
03-21-2011, 11:45 PM
|
#23 |
|
Big Bearded Boy
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Joplor, NC
Oddometer: 1,125
|
I bought a set of adjustable links (dog bones) from Soupy's Performance.
They typically sell lowering links, but I had them make a set of links to raise the bike. You have to contact them directly to have them made. Ran me about $30 more than the lowering links for the "custom" work. I'll post results when I get them installed (minimum and maximum seat height).
__________________
Current: '07 B1250. ![]() Former Steeds: '99 DR650, '02 DR650, '09 DL650 First Trip on 2 Wheels. 10,000 miles. 21 years old. |
|
|
05-11-2011, 05:16 PM
|
#24 |
|
Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 2,607
|
Footpeg Lowering Brackets CAD
__________________
2004 DR650: 47,033 miles of The last 314 miles were done with my super, hot rod, whiz-bang, blue KLIM Dakar gloves. Good thing I lost one of my 10 year old Joe Rocket gloves; I didn't know I could ride so fast. ER70S-2 screwed with this post 10-22-2011 at 10:29 AM Reason: Linked Photo |
|
|
08-24-2011, 09:33 AM
|
#25 |
|
Asperger
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: So. Oregon
Oddometer: 2,135
|
Is there any better bolt-on, drop-in suspension than Ricor intimators and rear shock for an aggressive novice rider?
__________________
http://breakingbooks.wordpress.com http://www.kenmarshallmetalworks.com/ 2011 DR650, Fly Aero tapered bars, Race Tech front springs/emulators, RT rear spring/shock shaft assy, BarkBusters, MT21s, 14/43T, etc I may not be Rainman, but I'm not stupid eighter. Like Bartek on a taco. |
|
|
08-24-2011, 11:03 AM
|
#26 |
|
fNg
Joined: May 2011
Location: Rancho Cucamonger, CA
Oddometer: 796
|
since buying my DR in May i've put on 5000 slab miles and i've always hated the wallowy unstable turn in of the DR forks. i got used to it in the twisties but i still hated that millisecond of disconnected about-to-washout feeling.
did a fork swap and the wallow is gone, you turn in and feel it the entire way, no more unsettled moments. you can upgrade the internals all you want and add on braces & whatknot but you're still throwing money at a weak streetbike fork. i used KYBs because that's what i had, not the most technologically advanced forks, but they work way better than the stock boingers.
__________________
2006 DR650SE, daily commuter + a StripleR and a bunch of 2 strokes that you dont want to read about. :) http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=829203 |
|
|
08-24-2011, 12:33 PM
|
#27 |
|
Armature speller
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 6,844
|
But after dropping Intiminators in, they're no longer stock boingers.
|
|
|
11-23-2011, 07:33 AM
|
#28 |
|
Butler Maps
Joined: May 2002
Location: Colorado - Fort Collins
Oddometer: 14,577
|
basketcase sent me a PM with the frame paint match.
he said it was an exact match for the silver frame. touch-up: Duplicolor NGFM360 - 2-1 Scratch Fix - Ford Dark Shadow Gray http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1143&ppt=C0255 http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=539040_0_0_ http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-Pa.../dp/B000ALJ3YS 8oz spray: BFM0360 http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1147&ppt=C0253 http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...entifier=59677
__________________
Butler Maps - motorcycle maps for riders by riders - Ozarks , Nor Cal , COBDR shipping, AZBDR scouting http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717 Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/butlermaps |
|
|
12-08-2011, 04:41 AM
|
#29 |
|
Adventurer
Joined: Dec 2011
Location: PNW heading south
Oddometer: 13
|
Intiminators with stock springs and Cogent rear good enough for the TAT, SA, and beyond?
|
|
|
12-08-2011, 09:17 AM
|
#30 |
|
What? Me hurry?
|
Stock fork springs are pretty soft. You mention elsewhere you're considering a Safari tank, and I expect the usual loads that RTW motorcycles end up carrying (extra water, fuel, camping gear, racks, luggage, etc.). Unless you're a featherweight, stiffer front springs might be a necessity.
|
|
|
![]() |
| Share |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
|
|