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Old 08-06-2009, 03:31 PM   #46
rivercreep
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Go back through this thread and re-read my comment

Quote:
Originally Posted by DSdave
Should valves be adjusted to the tighter or looser of the range?

I just read that too tight can cause idle problems due to longer durations, mostly stalling at stoplights, true or not?
What other differences does it make?

On the flywheel, there is a line with the letter T to the right of it. So I'm guessing TDC is when the line is centered in the sight hole?
Sorry to sound snotty but, this question has already been answered.
In regards to the question about stoplight stalling, if things are within the specified specs, (not too tight or loose) stalling isn't an issue and if it IS....something else is wrong. (most likely, carb-float heighth).
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Old 08-07-2009, 06:54 PM   #47
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I read the burnt valves post, it just didn't stick. Do not adjust too tight. What bad things happen if they are too loose?

Exhaust valves on mine want to stay closed and make it hard to get a feeler gauge in.
is it okay to use a screwdriver to apply some light pressure to hold the rocker arm while you check the gap? Or should it be held up by hand only?
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Old 08-10-2009, 05:59 AM   #48
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Is it the compression release thats making it hard to adjust the exhaust valves?
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Old 08-10-2009, 01:48 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSdave
I read the burnt valves post, it just didn't stick. Do not adjust too tight. What bad things happen if they are too loose?
valvetrain wear

there is a phrase though: slappy valves are happy valves
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Old 08-12-2009, 02:22 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonic reducer
there is a phrase though: slappy valves are happy valves
Can't say I've heard that before, but I like it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lone rider
There's a loose rule of: 1 over will be tight and 2 over will not fit
I thought that was used while actually adjusting the valves when I first read it. After it sunk in I understand.
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Old 08-12-2009, 02:49 PM   #51
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#1 on the kit from Jesse, for me it made it a lot easier setting the clearances. The plug covering the flywheel (side cover) is a very soft metal. When I put the allen key in to remove it, it rounded right out. A chisel and hammer anti clockwise got it unthreaded. I put a bit of anti seize on the new one, it came out the next time without any complications.
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Old 08-12-2009, 08:16 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lone Rider
Good post.


There's a loose rule of: 1 over will be tight and 2 over will not fit.
I've set the valves on an 1150 more times than I can count and found that it can actually be quicker using a guage that is 1 or 2 over rather than trying to get that 'perfect feel/drag' with the correct size gauge.

Whatever works, works...
Yes, good call. Just did my valves a week or two ago, but I'll use that advice on my next adjustment on one of my bikes.
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Old 06-22-2010, 06:54 PM   #53
atpalmer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dalv
Great post. Just got an old '90 650 and in the process of stripping to the frame to build back. Bike runs great but I thought a complete once over would pay off in the long run.

I planned on adjusting the valves - a little noisy - and this post is just the ticket. My only problem is what is the clearance for a '90? I have not been able to come up with a manual anyplace - if anyone know of a source paper or electronic that would really be appreciated.

Thanks for any help.
Dal
according to http://dr650.zenseeker.net/ValveAdjustment.htm
Pre 1996 DR650 Valve clearance specifications:
IN. 0.08 - 0.13mm (0.003 - 0.005in)
EX. 0.08 - 0.13mm (0.003 - 0.005in)

1996- DR650 Valve clearance (when cold):
IN. 0.08 - 0.13mm (0.003 - 0.005in)
EX. 0.17 - 0.22mm (0.007 - 0.009in)
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Old 06-22-2010, 10:41 PM   #54
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Um, a simple little crescent wrench works just fine...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bucho
Thanks for the help, I did a valve adjustment myself for the first time on my DR.

I used to do them on BMW twins, it seemed easier back then. On the DR stuff kept getting in the way. I couldn't get the last bolt on the cover for the exhaust valves. I had to push the oil cooler guard out of the way, was a beotch to get at.

But all in all, thanks, took me forever, but beats paying for it.
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Old 06-22-2010, 10:46 PM   #55
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Just a nudge.

I did my first time at 28000 miles Two of the valves were just a nudge off. Not a big deal. It felt a little rough but not overly so.

I also did mine at the closer end of tight and it's running great. Much smoother. I hear a little bit of ticking going on so I think it's good. I also like the kit that Kientz sells. I bought this little valve 'wrench' that procycle.us sells and it didn't work well at all for me. The knob version is much better.

Quote:
Originally Posted by scootertrash
I just did my valves for the first time (3800 mi) I had a two-ended feeler gauge,.004/.008 and the tappet wrenches. Bike sounds good now, only very light ticking, telling you that they aren't too tight. Great info here!
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Old 08-26-2011, 12:15 PM   #56
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Is it necessary to have one of those special tools from Keintech, or Procycle to check the clearance? I was going to do it this weekend but I don't want to have to wait/order up a tool. To me, it looks like I don't need it, the "special tool" just makes it simpler?
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Old 08-27-2011, 04:06 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerocycle View Post
To me, it looks like I don't need it, the "special tool" just makes it simpler?
Correct special "tool" is not necessary it just makes the adjustment easier. The hard of the job is just getting around to doing it. :)


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Old 08-27-2011, 05:51 AM   #58
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rivercreep View Post
On a single cylinder engine that mark will pass the window 2 times.
Once on the compression stroke and once on the intake stroke that draws in your air/fuel mixture.
Minor point, rivercreep, but I believe the TDC mark passes the window at the end of the compression stroke and at the end of the EXHAUST (not the intake) stroke.

The TDC piston position occurs twice on each cycle of a 4-stroke engine, regardless of the number of cylinders, AFAIK.
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Old 10-16-2011, 03:28 PM   #59
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Like so many here I stripped the aluminum cover when I tried to do my first valve adjustment. I saw where someone suggested using a chisel to break it loose and I tried that. It cuts into the cover easily but I couldn't get enough grip to get the damn thing off by pounding on ti. Try this. Once you get some chiseled away with a chisel pound a carpenters nail set tool in to the fitting. That will dig in deep enough to get a good grab on the piece. Then you can just tap it out with the nail set tool, worked great! The hole to the right is the nail set hole. All the other mess is from the chisel.



Now, after the bike cools down over night I can check the valves easily. I used anti seize on the new fitting BTW. It had better work!
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Old 10-16-2011, 03:45 PM   #60
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Just don't overtighten. Leave it at just beyond finger-tight. I've never applied any anti-seize after the original troubles...I'm just careful with it.

You also have to be very careful with the oil filter cover screws. Use a short wrench and torque them very lightly.
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