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Old 09-11-2011, 07:55 PM   #61
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Velociraptor View Post
Maybe similar but the fuel pump was pressurizing every time and it seems like moving that wiring loom around had a direct effect....maybe! I know the feeling of not knowing exactly what it might be. I may buy one of those aftermarket pumps just to cover the bases. For now the bike is parked and I will have a look next weekend.
check the crimped wires that go to the coil...they are in the area that you described and Beany pointed out there have been issues with those.
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Old 09-11-2011, 07:59 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
check the crimped wires that go to the coil...they are in the area that you described and Beany pointed out there have been issues with those.
Will do. Thanks!
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:51 PM   #63
Bill the Bong
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
who prescribes 80mm sag? we set ours around 105mm
2011 owners manual - Static 25mm, Riding sag 70 - 80 mm

Makes a tallish bike huge
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:54 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtJack View Post
The earlier models had adjustable offset cams on the steering stem (I presume the current model has this). The factory setting gives more offset resulting in quicker steering. Reducing the offset increases trail and improves stability at speed. The triple clamp must be disassembled (not difficult) to change the setting. You can check to see if the 11's have the feature by removing the cap over the stem (don't remove the pinch bolt). You should be able to see the top cam and if a dot is in the rear, yours is set at max offset (less trail). You may prefer more trail. Of course, as you note, proper sag affects trail as well.
Thanks. Just checked, my 2011 model has it as well. Since I was going to check steering beering tightness in any case, I will expand the job.

I think you are definitely on the right track here.
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Old 09-12-2011, 05:29 AM   #65
johnlt
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Service tech says I have stator issue

I've been getting FI faults and overheating errors periodically. Finally got worse and just died. Sometimes would restart sometimes not and seemed to have low battery. Charged it and same thing again. Dealer service rep put it on the computer and said multiple sensor errors from many places so checked the stator output. 10.5V at idle and 11.5V at high RPM. Said the low voltage caused all the errors including the erroneous overheat indications plus didn't keep the battery charged. Now waiting for a new stator. I haven't read of any stator issue, has anyone had similar prblems?
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:23 AM   #66
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill the Bong View Post
2011 owners manual - Static 25mm, Riding sag 70 - 80 mm

Makes a tallish bike huge
interesting. well you can always try going more or less till you find what works best for you. maybe its because of the linkage...where the other bikes (exc's and husabergs etc...not the other 690's) have no linkage.
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:53 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by Tbone675 View Post
what mods do you have and what map did you choose?

I helped Daniel out with the map. He has a 2011 Enduro R with a FMF Apex pipe and a Evo1 airbox lid. It wouldn't idle when cold and was noticably lean.

I started with the 2011 Akro map (it was a little richer than the Evo1 map) and I did the changes outlined in the "Code Orange" thread.
He had a big smile when he came back from the test ride!!
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Old 09-12-2011, 08:13 AM   #68
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anybody remember what rear rotor will work for the 690? bent mine and need it asap
thanks
btw 1800 miles off road zero problems with anything but the bent rotor. fi worked flawlessly. thanks to those that helped me sort the maps.
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:04 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by Bill the Bong View Post
Thanks. Just checked, my 2011 model has it as well. Since I was going to check steering beering tightness in any case, I will expand the job.

I think you are definitely on the right track here.
If you still need stiffer spring, you can also contact Javier @ Trailtricks. He has progressive 8.4-10.4 in stock. I have one and it works very well, both in the woods and fast gravel. I weight 103 kg's w/o gear. I didn't change the fork springs as it works good enough and they must've been a tad too stiff in comparisation to what they threw on the rear stock wise. It's more 'balanced' now.
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:11 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olec View Post
If you still need stiffer spring, you can also contact Javier @ Trailtricks. He has progressive 8.4-10.4 in stock. I have one and it works very well, both in the woods and fast gravel. I weight 103 kg's w/o gear. I didn't change the fork springs as it works good enough and they must've been a tad too stiff in comparisation to what they threw on the rear stock wise. It's more 'balanced' now.
I used the Superplush 90 spring rear and did nothing to the front. Great results as well.
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:59 AM   #71
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
anybody remember what rear rotor will work for the 690? bent mine and need it asap
thanks
btw 1800 miles off road zero problems with anything but the bent rotor. fi worked flawlessly. thanks to those that helped me sort the maps.
I got one from EBC thats not a wave rotor and I got a stock galfer wave rotor...neither are floating. Barman or someone got a floater rear but I never figured out where he got it from.
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Old 09-12-2011, 10:03 AM   #72
Bwolf
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Galfer Floating Rear Rotor

Ktm-Twins has the Galfer Floating Rear Rotor.

http://www.ktmtwins.com/ktm-690-part...ear-wave-rotor
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Old 09-12-2011, 10:24 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
I got one from EBC thats not a wave rotor and I got a stock galfer wave rotor...neither are floating. Barman or someone got a floater rear but I never figured out where he got it from.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bwolf View Post
Ktm-Twins has the Galfer Floating Rear Rotor.

http://www.ktmtwins.com/ktm-690-part...ear-wave-rotor




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Old 09-12-2011, 10:31 AM   #74
Bill the Bong
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olec View Post
If you still need stiffer spring, you can also contact Javier @ Trailtricks. He has progressive 8.4-10.4 in stock. I have one and it works very well, both in the woods and fast gravel. I weight 103 kg's w/o gear. I didn't change the fork springs as it works good enough and they must've been a tad too stiff in comparisation to what they threw on the rear stock wise. It's more 'balanced' now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barman View Post
I used the Superplush 90 spring rear and did nothing to the front. Great results as well.
Thanks for the feedback, guys. Olec, I'm similar in size to you.

It appears that a simple tightening up of the steering head bearing helped a fair bit. I'm still going the Superplush 90 route, as I can get it easily via KTMTwins. I believe that static sag must be in the correct range as well.
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Old 09-12-2011, 11:25 AM   #75
SidewinderX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engineerjoe View Post
I helped Daniel out with the map. He has a 2011 Enduro R with a FMF Apex pipe and a Evo1 airbox lid. It wouldn't idle when cold and was noticably lean.

I started with the 2011 Akro map (it was a little richer than the Evo1 map) and I did the changes outlined in the "Code Orange" thread.
He had a big smile when he came back from the test ride!!
Thanks again Joe.

It completely transformed the bike. It helped just as much when I did the 15 min idle procedure (which I could not before because it would die after <1min at idle when cold). I can tell the "code orange" changes as well.

It has very predictable power with a nice boost in the mid range torque curve.

I owe you for the help.
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