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Old 04-28-2011, 06:54 AM   #46
jessepitt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bumblebee1 View Post
Good info.
I'm a bit confused here.
What's a head bearing?
Steering head bearing.
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Old 04-28-2011, 07:12 AM   #47
bumblebee1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
Steering head bearing.
D'huh
Here I am trying to figure out why i've never noticed a bearing in the head.
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Old 04-28-2011, 10:39 AM   #48
CoastMountainGuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Lube the cable ball, if it isn't rotating when you pull the lever, snap-O. Maybe? Lube the one on the bottom, too. Never thought it would happen so soon though.

And I have the same cleaning schedule as your sig. Well, except that the blue ones are fastest.
Going to replace the clutch perch with a aftermarket from ASV. I'll keep the cable ball lubed, though...makes sense. I lubed the cables, but never the actual ball and socket. Funny...each time it started creaking a bit right before the pull that broke the cable's back!

You're right, the blue ones do look fast, but the '09s only came in black or white...but that's what I get for waiting so long to buy a DR! Still better colour choices than a KLR...or a Model T
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Old 04-28-2011, 01:53 PM   #49
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Thumb

[QUOTE=rivercreep;15779592]
Quote:
In regards to the 96+ upper roller bearings, since I learned on the 91 that Suzuki doesn't know what grease is, while I had everything apart anyway to regrease things...Upon reassembly and with the shock still off, I ran the swingarm through it's range of travel to check for proper chain tension.
What I found out is that Suzukis recommended settings are too tight (with the upper chain roller in place) so that it binds.
I'll be honnest with you, the issues encountered by some regarding the upper chain roller does concern me, but I am not entirely convinced by them either. Riding style, enviroment, physical attributes all play a part.

I ride 90% street, day in day out with 47,000 miles on the clocks; I generally set the chain at 37-40mm as in my view 30mm is too tight when you consider the full suspension travel. 30mm is what you'd want on a roadbike. When taking the bike off road you'd slacken things further as the chain has greater tension/sag acting upon it. The rollers only really start playing their part on the shock's rebound stroke when the chain is very loose and prone to jumping off the sprockets teeth or worse knotting. This is the real catch twenty two. If the suspension is too soft then you have to look at an upgrade so that you can have a consistent setup. I have both rollers fitted with good results.

Tip: If you loose or wear one of your rollers you can make a reasonable replacement using an old skateboard/rollerblade wheel and cutting it down to the appropriate size, coupled with some washers to cup and center the wheel to the chain.


Quote:
Carry a hacksaw (or blade and vise grips) enough rubber hose of the right diameter, and 2 hose clamps and a screwdriver.
Reason, if you smash a hole in that tiny little oil cooler, you can mcguyver a bypass and easily get home without the cooler. I managed to do that on the old 91 and used her for around 10,000 miles with no oil cooler at all. (you can do the same fo the 96+)
Very good tip, thanks. I found that the swage fittings on the front oil hose are prone to crack because of the heat, crud and angle the hose has to work with or agaisnt. I put a jubilee clip on each end up until the replacement arrived. I then wrapped some glass fibre cloth around it to help it reflect some of the heat build up.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

When it comes to the clutch cable if you look head on the cable kinks downward straight past the adjuster/lock-rings. I found that if you route everything as per the manual, bar clamping it against the wiring loom (just behind the front head cowl), that the cable follows the lever's horizontal plane much better before dropping down. Set the lever and holder assemblies to whatever you feel comfortable with and work from there. I regularly oil all the cables, switches and lever points and things run slick. To help things further I smear a touch of grease on each end-cable, whilst packing the small rubber cap of the end guide with additional grease. I'm not trying to make you suck eggs but it's easily overlooked by some to have the adjuster/lock nut slits facing up so that when it rains things get corroded. In any case you should not be having cables snap with those type of miles, if anything the speedo cable will snap long, long before that.

Pat
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Eggsontoast screwed with this post 04-28-2011 at 04:07 PM
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Old 04-29-2011, 10:52 AM   #50
CoastMountainGuy
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Thanks for the clutch cable tips Pat... My third cable just arrived at the local shop, and now I'm just waiting for the ASV lever to arrive (the distributor "forgot" to ship it....).

I'll definitely make sure to lube and grease everything well. I'm pretty sure I routed it properly, but I will evaluate it carefully during the install. Something is definitely fishy, because you're right, there's no way I should have snapped THREE clutch cables on a machine with only 16000 km on it...
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Old 05-02-2011, 07:07 AM   #51
Eggsontoast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoastMountainGuy View Post
Thanks for the clutch cable tips Pat... My third cable just arrived at the local shop, and now I'm just waiting for the ASV lever to arrive (the distributor "forgot" to ship it....).

I'll definitely make sure to lube and grease everything well. I'm pretty sure I routed it properly, but I will evaluate it carefully during the install. Something is definitely fishy, because you're right, there's no way I should have snapped THREE clutch cables on a machine with only 16000 km on it...
Just out of interest where is the cable snapping?

Have you cupped the cable on the guide by the starter motor?

Is the clutch actuator arm diagonally in line with the cylinder base nut?

Pat
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Eggsontoast screwed with this post 05-02-2011 at 07:58 AM
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Old 05-02-2011, 11:03 AM   #52
CoastMountainGuy
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Clutch cable keeps snapping right up by the lever, right at the lever-end ball. Always re-routed in the stock location. Can't figure this one out... Is lube and smooth routing the answer?
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Old 05-02-2011, 02:17 PM   #53
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoastMountainGuy View Post
Clutch cable keeps snapping right up by the lever, right at the lever-end ball. Always re-routed in the stock location. Can't figure this one out... Is lube and smooth routing the answer?
Sharp edge at the lever?
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Old 05-03-2011, 05:58 PM   #54
CoastMountainGuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Sharp edge at the lever?
Likely culprit... It is the original stock lever, though. Now it's lying in two pieces on the ground, and the bar is awaiting the new ASV lever...
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:21 AM   #55
TripTheNinja
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Clutch Side Cover Install - Pinion Post Question

Is there a trick to putting the clutch-side case back on? Do I:

a) Leave the clutch pinion post inside the case and adjust it (by twisting) as I'm pressing the case against the motor? (Which I couldn't get it to cooperate, hence me asking this question.)

b) Take the post out and then re-install after I secure the case? If I need to take the pinion post out, HOW DO I DO IT? Does it just press out? Will I need a new bearing, etc?

I couldn't find any literature via the www so hopefully this will help others as well.

Thanks for any advice!
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Old 09-12-2011, 11:25 AM   #56
ER70S-2
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The pinion post is geared/splined 360* at both ends, it doesn't matter where it seats. The adjustment is made by rotating the arm on the spline, after the cover is installed. (edit to add: the clutch release rack is only notched on one side and the teeth must be rotated forward before putting the clutch cover on. It sticks out of the clutch hub and engages the pinion post.) There is something that catches while installing the cover (I don't remember what), just wiggle it around until it seats; including rocking the arm back and forth. I found that I could keep the cover 'flat to the case' by gently tightening the bolts with my fingers.

Do not remove the pinion post.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 04-23-2012 at 10:43 AM
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Old 09-12-2011, 11:32 AM   #57
sandwash
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ya you have to "walk" it on the spline
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:14 AM   #58
TripTheNinja
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Question Primary Drive Gear Nut- and a case of classic trust

Thanks for the advice above. I figured that I needed to be a bit more patient with it and that taking the pinion post out would create too much unnecessary work. Glad to hear it from someone else!

Now I need another opinion that stems from doing some searching and not finding enough information;

THE STORY
I bought my bike used with 3300 miles on it from an outwardly proud "Christian Firefighter" in Virginia, who said it was in perfect shape other than the right side number plate being damaged from a soft-bag pressing it against the muffler. We already know where this is going, right? After riding it a few times I noticed that the only time my oil was clean was when I bought it and trailered it 8 hours home. The oil must have just been freshly changed the day I looked at it and bought it..

I thought it had a knocking noise when I was looking at it however it was probably just the standard noise bouncing off the skidplate that I had read about... nothing too serious because the oil was clean and the bike seemed to be running well and otherwise sounded normal. I initially cycled oil through it after every few hundred miles (just for my peace of mind) and noticed that the oil would never stay clean for more than one or two trips around the block. It would turn a cloudy black color. I called this guy to ask him what he knew and of course he wouldn't reply. Then I took it to two local dealers who had no idea what it could be, wanted me to leave it with them, and charge me an exorbitant amount of money to fix something that I could probably figure out myself.

I did my research and cracked the case to look for the famous Primary Drive Gear Nut issue. Lo-and-behold! It was about 3 to 4 threads loose from where it should be tightened at. It was machining off the corner of the clutch basket. I've used a magnetic oil plug, which would present small amounts of shavings, however nothing that looked too serious. When I pulled the case off there was a little cranny in the case behind the gasket that trapped enough metal to fill a pen cap, probably more aluminum than anything. The nut which is made of stronger metal didn't have much damage. I figure that's the reason that I didn't get many flakes on my oil plug. By this time, I'm kicking myself for not trusting my instinct with the knocking noise and cursing this righteous "Christian Firefighter's" name up and down.

Bottom line, I have to live with the issue, chalk it up as experience, and probably rebuild or buy a new motor sometime down the road. I would love to have more faith in mankind, however these kind of circumstances make it difficult.

MY CURRENT QUESTION
Considering that the bike now has about 5500 miles on it. I changed the oil wayyyy more than I should have. I cleaned the surfaces and put red locktight on the Primary Drive Gear Nut and torqued it. The NSU was already tight so I put locktight on it and tightened it back up. Hopefully the oil will stay clean after I cycle it once more.

What could be the next domino(s) to fall as a result of putting mileage on the engine with metal shavings floating around for a few thousand miles?

What kind of engine life would you guys think that I'll have? I ride pretty conservative and sometimes get a bit spirited.

Is there anything else that I should be wary of?

Once again, I appreciate any advice and I hope this helps others as well.
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:26 AM   #59
tv guy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TripTheNinja View Post
MY CURRENT QUESTION
What could be the next domino(s) to fall as a result of putting mileage on the engine with metal shavings floating around for a few thousand miles?

What kind of engine life would you guys think that I'll have? I ride pretty conservative and sometimes get a bit spirited.

Is there anything else that I should be wary of?

Once again, I appreciate any advice and I hope this helps others as well.
Good work finding and fixing the problem! I don’t think anyone can accurately predict what might happen next. Since you’re “stuck” with it now I would recommend you ride it like normal and keep an eye on the oil and any new strange noises. With any luck after a few thousand miles you’ll forget all about this bad beginning.
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Old 11-05-2011, 08:47 PM   #60
trailrider383
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2007 DR650 with 28,400 miles running just fine 2 weeks ago. Shut it off and went to start it a week later-nothing. Pulled a spark plug to check the spark and got one weak spark then nothing. Checked the pickup coil with an ohmmeter and it didn't meet specs. Ordered one from here for $39:

http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/ca...up-Pulser-Coil

Had it in 2 days, took 5 days to get a gasket from Suzuki. Wired it in today (wire colors are backwards) and it fired right up. Anybody else want to chime in with their mileage when the pickup coil died? Luckily mine died in the garage.
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