How do you check if the alternator is functioning properly.

[YetiGS]

I wonder if it's because the BMW stator's output is not high enough for the load we're putting on them which is causing them to burn out?


Which leads back to what I've been wondering for a while, is there a way to increase the output of the stator? I know on my XR400R I just had it re-wound by Baja Designs, why can't we do something similar to the BMW stator?

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by YetiGS

I wonder if it's because the BMW stator's output is not high enough for the load we're putting on them which is causing them to burn out?


Which leads back to what I've been wondering for a while, is there a way to increase the output of the stator? I know on my XR400R I just had it re-wound by Baja Designs, why can't we do something similar to the BMW stator?

Imho..... I don`t think so...... Since the stator/RR (regulator rectifier).... grounds what ever juice not needed by the " system"..... So in essence....The stator is always producing 100%. That said.....Practically ....many times things don`t work out as they are surposed... Ie. Generally speaking , not just on the gs.... The less of a tax on the system seems to make for better longevity. Ie... The guy with extra lights...body heaters etc... Toast his faster. Should`nt be...but I have seen this on other bikes. think as long as you are stock ...or less Like after your HID install.... You should be on..... Nothing scientific to back this.... But just my opinion. Speaking of HID..... Did you get your wedge`ed in there????



Erling

[YetiGS]

Originally Posted by ebrabaek

Imho..... I don`t think so...... Since the stator/RR (regulator rectifier).... grounds what ever juice not needed by the " system"..... So in essence....The stator is always producing 100%. That said.....Practically ....many times things don`t work out as they are surposed... Ie. Generally speaking , not just on the gs.... The less of a tax on the system seems to make for better longevity. Ie... The guy with extra lights...body heaters etc... Toast his faster. Should`nt be...but I have seen this on other bikes. think as long as you are stock ...or less Like after your HID install.... You should be on..... Nothing scientific to back this.... But just my opinion. Speaking of HID..... Did you get your wedge`ed in there????



Erling

I'm gonna put the HID in next weekend.


So, does anyone know of a way to increase the stator output?? That's one advantage the Tiger has over the 800GS.

[Bayner]

Well, I can't say mine had any extra strain on it. Never had battery troubles (still on the original) and nothing extra wired in save a GPS. Made it just over the 50k kms mark. Pretty pathetic if you ask me. Add in the month it was in the shop waiting on parts, and the whole experience left me very non-plussed.

[GJGSRider]

My stator failed at 27000 miles. Three days before my warranty expired. I have heated grips and run an Oregon gps. I have no other electrical options. My original Excide BMW stock battery lasted three years, until my alternator died. Dealer repaired under warranty in 10 days. Will we will see more stator failures? Hmmm.

[JRWooden]

As ebrabaek said, apparently the stator is always producing 100% of what it is capable of producing given the RPM ... the regulator simply dumps the power it does not need back to the frame of the bike ... apparently other bikes use this style of regulator.... seems a bit screwy to me ....

Having more accessories drawing current would perhaps reduce the load on the regulator but the stator is working its ass off no matter what and getting quite hot doing so ....

[johngil]

Dead stator at 18,000 or so for me.

[Bayner]

Originally Posted by johngil

Dead stator at 18,000 or so for me.

I had my suspicions.... at least you know now.

[LukasM]

Originally Posted by johngil

Dead stator at 18,000 or so for me.

Definitely a weak point on these bikes. Life expectancy seems to be around 50,000 miles or even significantly less in quite a few cases. Try to get them to take a few pictures to see if it's just a nicked wire or if the whole thing is burned out and black like Finn's.

I think the possible solutions would be weaker magnets, higher quality wires and epoxy insulation, or a series regulator. The last one would be the nicest as you wouldn't reduce the electrical power output.

[itsatdm]

There are other types of regulators out there that "should" work, that use relays instead of shunting excess amps to the frame. An on demand type that may prolong stator life. Called Mosfet. Triumph apparently uses this type of regulator. Here is an aftermarket source. http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%...rade%20kit.htm

You do not want one that outputs more than 14.5v. The above one is rated at 30amps.

Being an electrical idiot, can some one commit on what 30 amps is referring to? I am assuming the max rating of each of the stator output wires. I know some of you have measured stator output on the F800, what are the the readings.

Can't find a source for what effect on Canbus this may have, any thoughts?

[LukasM]

Originally Posted by itsatdm

There are other types of regulators out there that "should" work, that use relays instead of shunting excess amps to the frame. An on demand type that may prolong stator life. Called Mosfet. Triumph apparently uses this type of regulator. Here is an aftermarket source. http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%...rade%20kit.htm

You do not want one that outputs more than 14.5v. The above one is rated at 30amps.

Being an electrical idiot, can some one commit on what 30 amps is referring to? I am assuming the max rating of each of the stator output wires. I know some of you have measured stator output on the F800, what are the the readings.

Can't find a source for what effect on Canbus this may have, any thoughts?

That is not the case unfortunately, a MOSFET R/R will do nothing for stator life. It's just a more efficient switching circuit, so it heats up less. That is good on bikes that regularly burn out R/Rs, but not in our case. Guess where that extra power gets dissipated instead - the stator.

The type that will help is a series type regulator that I mentioned above. I explained it in another thread on stators here in the parallel universe how it does it by reducing the actual power being produced, will post it again when I have access to a computer.

Btw the rating of a R/R refers to the total power it can deal with, not each of the wires.

[JRWooden]

Originally Posted by itsatdm

There are other types of regulators out there that "should" work, that use relays instead of shunting excess amps to the frame. An on demand type that may prolong stator life. Called Mosfet. Triumph apparently uses this type of regulator. Here is an aftermarket source. http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%...rade%20kit.htm

You do not want one that outputs more than 14.5v. The above one is rated at 30amps.

Being an electrical idiot, can some one commit on what 30 amps is referring to? I am assuming the max rating of each of the stator output wires. I know some of you have measured stator output on the F800, what are the the readings.

Can't find a source for what effect on Canbus this may have, any thoughts?

Gary:
In terms of power rating, 30 amps is roughly what we would need, the charging system on the F800GS is spec-ed at 400 watts - watts is Voltage x current so at (say) 13 volts, 400 watts is indeed ~30 amps.

Nice article here that explains how crappy shunt regulators (wait ... I meant "cost-effictive" ) differ from the more advanced designs (see the section "Active regulators").

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_regulator

One key thing I think we should all be doing is making sure that the frame/ground connection to our regulators is clean and solid ... if not, the regulator will quickly fry.

Other than replacing the regulator with a more advanced design, or somehow improving the stator windings or keeping them cooler I'm not sure what else we can do...............

[itsatdm]

I though the Mosfet RR was a relay type. Trying to educate myself, I read on the internet (must be true) that is had the ability to shut down a segment of the stator if all the amps were not needed.

It would be nice to see an electrical diagram to determine if all the bikes power comes off the battery or are parts of the systme fed directly from the R/R.

Still have not heard whether Canbus would prohibit some other option.

[JRWooden]

Gary:

Here's the scematic .... I figured it would be more complicated, but really there is not much to see once you've seen it ....

3 wires from stator to R/R then a pair of wires wires from Regulator to each terminal of the battery

[itsatdm]

Thank you. It looks simple enough. All roads lead to the ECU