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Old 10-04-2011, 07:41 PM   #61
Dieselboy OP
Journey not Destination
 
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Joined: Sep 2003
Location: Port of the Gasparilla
Oddometer: 1,121
So starting low and front. The crash bars are first. I have Vision X and Stebel mounted there so zip ties and cables get moved.

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The system includes a bunch of zip lock bags. Labeled because I’m a bit paranoid about losing track of all these parts.

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Draining the oil. Comes later in the actual “book” but I figure this was a convenient time.

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Panels next.

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Digging towards the battery next.

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Disconnect the change-over valve plug. Habor Freight provides great stuff, like the zip tie labels for all the various cables.


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Battery out.


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Temp sensor plug.


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Screws for the intake air silencer.


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Hoses from the idle actuator.

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Book says to disconnect the hose from cylinder-head cover. I left it and disconnected from the bottom of the air box.

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Can. Springs first.

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Rear Tire.


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Note to self. Master link crimp faces out. (To get the chain back on in the same direction.)


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Chain guard.

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Rear caliper zip tied to frame.

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Lost the pic of the rear brake line cover. Basically, left side of swing arm. One bolt and plastic cover.


Pinion cover.


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Chain slide rail.


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Bottom shock mount.


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Propped the swing arm just to be sure. Wasn’t necessary. Cat caught it.


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Swing Arm axel nut. 21mm. Had to run back to Harbor Freight. Only 21mm I’ve seen on this bike.


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Actually removing the chain slide rail now.

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Swing arm out.

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Chain off. (...and to think this is what would be necessary to change the OEM chain....insane....I’ll stick with the master link.)


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Old 10-04-2011, 08:07 PM   #62
Dieselboy OP
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Joined: Sep 2003
Location: Port of the Gasparilla
Oddometer: 1,121
Regulator comes off next. Just let it hang, per the book.


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Cut zip ties and unplug a bunch of connectors.


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End result is the stator plug is free of the frame.


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More.


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Remove the cover from the starter wire and unscrew two nuts.


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Cut zip ties.


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Pinch off the expansion tank hose.


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Remove screw and drain radiator fluid.


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Remove this screw and drain from engine. Has a copper washer so pay attention.


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Unscrew protective screen and let it hang. No pic.


Unplug fan plug. This pic is the connector that comes in from the front. Don't cut the zip tie and pull this one like I did. You should unplug the female connector from the back side when you can reach it.


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Disconnect radiator hoses and remove screws from radiator and expansion tank. These come off together. Forgot to release the clamp ealier. So we just opened the cap and dumped the coolant from the tank into the bucket.

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Remove radiator.


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Trace down the O2 sensor and unplug. Cut zip ties.


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Remove Cat bolt.


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Remove exhaust header flange nuts. These are 12 point nuts. Had to run to Pep Boys to get the 10mm socket necessary. One of the studs came out with the bolt. It’s currently soaking.


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Pull pipes out.


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Old 10-04-2011, 08:14 PM   #63
Dieselboy OP
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Location: Port of the Gasparilla
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So that's the end of day 1. Five hours of wrenching got me as far as the exhaust pipes off the bike. I had to make two tool runs: 21mm socket for the swing arm axel nut, and 10mm 12-point socket for the exhaust flange nuts.


Not as far along as I'd like but no catastrophic issues (that I'm aware of).


I realized also, that I forgot to order gaskets for the exhaust header pipes. I'm hoping it's common enough for the dealer to have them in stock. [EDIT: it's not. ] Speaking of which, the day actually started at the dealer picking up a partial order. Conspicuously absent are my new cam sprockets. [EDIT: sprockets look like new so not an issue.] I should see them in four or five days. I'll decide what to do once I see the inside of this engine.
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Old 10-04-2011, 08:23 PM   #64
Dieselboy OP
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Joined: Sep 2003
Location: Port of the Gasparilla
Oddometer: 1,121
So popped the new cam chain out to see what there is to see:


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6.83 width


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12.45 length


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2.71 pin size

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9.05 edge to edge


101



So someone go find us a master link.
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Old 10-04-2011, 09:08 PM   #65
Camel ADV
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Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselboy View Post



For a minute I thought you were expecting a crowd and setting up bleachers!
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Old 10-04-2011, 10:03 PM   #66
Dieselboy OP
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Location: Port of the Gasparilla
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oso Blanco View Post
For a minute I thought you were expecting a crowd and setting up bleachers!




Actually, German fest tables to go with the German bike repair.
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Old 10-05-2011, 08:23 AM   #67
LukasM
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: On a RTW ride - currently Central Asia
Oddometer: 5,330
Thanks a bunch for documenting all this Nick, I appreciate being able to tag along and see how it's done!
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Old 10-05-2011, 08:49 AM   #68
Toadride
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Location: Done Roamin/Now Homin.
Oddometer: 801
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Old 10-05-2011, 10:53 AM   #69
Dieselboy OP
Journey not Destination
 
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Joined: Sep 2003
Location: Port of the Gasparilla
Oddometer: 1,121
Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
Thanks a bunch for documenting all this Nick, I appreciate being able to tag along and see how it's done!

The adventure continues.......
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Old 10-05-2011, 11:12 AM   #70
L.B.S.
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This is awesome of you to be taking the time and effort to detail the work done, take pictures etc. Thank you very much.

Love the bleacher set up!

Best of luck with the on going effort!
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Old 10-05-2011, 11:39 AM   #71
Dieselboy OP
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Joined: Sep 2003
Location: Port of the Gasparilla
Oddometer: 1,121
Quote:
Originally Posted by L.B.S. View Post
This is awesome of you to be taking the time and effort to detail the work done, take pictures etc. Thank you very much.

Love the bleacher set up!

Best of luck with the on going effort!


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Old 10-05-2011, 11:41 AM   #72
Dieselboy OP
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Joined: Sep 2003
Location: Port of the Gasparilla
Oddometer: 1,121
Started out the day on the drill press and grinder.


Creating a crank locking pin.

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Creating a shim holder.

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First parts of the day: radiator brackets.


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Remove the heat shield.


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Next to go is the side stand kill switch. Trace the wire up to the middle of the bike.


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Drop the left foot rest mounting plate.


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Here she is on the bench.


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Ooops. Did I do that?


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No more side stand kill switch. No wire to fight during reassembly. Plug is back in place. Wire the red and white together and seal it all with shrink tubing.


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Pull coils next. Mine came out by hand. No tool required. Book says not to unplug the coils.


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Unplug oil pressure switch and coolant-temp sensor (vicinity cam chain tensioner).


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Unscrew ground wire.


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Unhook throttle cable.


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Disconnect injection valve plugs.


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Pressure sensor.


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Throttle valve potentiometer plug. (right side)


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Clip a bunch of zip ties. Three on this bar. You are not removing the assembly just moving it a little.


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Release the clamps on the air intake ducts and plug the ducts. I used shop towels. The clamps have a special tool associate. I used needle nosed pliers.


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Disengage clutch cable.


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Separate pressure modulator from the retaining plate. This was a bit confusing at first. But simple in the end. There is a plate with a hole in the middle affixed to the engine. This module is grommeted to it. Pop it up out of the plate. The module stays with the bike.


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Release the brake lever pin.


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Unscrew and remove brake lever. Watch the spring.


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Release the brake lines. They stay but it gives some flex when the engine drops.


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Tape up the engine forward edges and the frame rails. It would help if the engine were cleaner. The tape wasn’t sticking. Note the ratchet strap in the center of the pic. At this point I moved them from the handle bars where they were initially to this point which is what BMW shows in the book.



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Remove left side frame bolts. (There are three but I only have two left because my engine guards used one and that came off as the first item of business on day 1).


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Remove right side frame bolts. Note spacers on this side. At all three points.


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I put a strap around the front of the engine not wanting it to pitch forward when released from the last bolt. Wasn’t an issue though.


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Floor jack was in place all night. Now we use it to lower the engine. The unmounted tire was there to act as a bumper. Again not necessary.


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Wiggle wiggle

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The back of the engine is in conflict with the frame at this point. So a straight drop is not possible.


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So the come along is used one click at a time to raise the frame and allows us to push it back away from the engine.


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She’s free.


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I estimate the weight at around 150lbs.


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Now she looks ill.



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Removing the ABS pressure-modulator bracket.


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Here’s another look at the modulator. Note the rubber plug on the bottom. That’s what you have to pop up when releasing the brake lines earlier.


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Next phase is clean up of the engine and then I open her up. Time to remove engine was 7 hours 45 minutes.


According to BMW, apparently I now have 15 minutes theft to repair the cam chain and reinstall the engine.
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Old 10-05-2011, 06:23 PM   #73
Dieselboy OP
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Joined: Sep 2003
Location: Port of the Gasparilla
Oddometer: 1,121
Engine is on the bench. Time to clean.

144


Side note: couldn’t get the bash plate mounts off so propped the engine on a couple of 1x1 dowels.


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Time to take the cam shaft sensor off.


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Starter.


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Looking good. Splines are smooth with no stepping.


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Valve cover and gaskets come off next.


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Book says to pull this gasket also but I don’t have a new one so it stays.


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Spark plug wrench.


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Loosen the plugs. Not part of the book process but I figured easier for the next step.


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Set cylinder 1 to TDC. At this point you're suppose to check the valve clearances but mine were done two weeks ago. I'm calling them good and moving on.


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Lock crank.


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Remove Cam Shaft Bearing Cap. “working diagonally opposite sequence, uniformly slacken all nuts”. So corner to corner interior side to side. A little at a time until the tension is off.


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Next the cam chain tensioner. (BTW it's a 22mm bolt....why....it's the only one that size. Couldn't BMW make do with a 21mm so we would have two bolts (swing arm). I don't want to be all crazy and think that a 17 mm to match the front axel or 24 mm to match the rear axel and oil drain plug would be reasonable.)


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Using an appropriate tool (fuel line in my case), lift the intake cam shaft and work the chain off. Then lift the exhaust cam chain and work the chain off. The straws were not book but seem like a good idea. Care is needed to not bang the cams shafts.


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Secure the cam chain.


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Remove and store the shims. (Don't forget to block the oil ports with rags.)


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Remove guide rail. The wear limit is .8mm. It’s hard to measure but looks good. there’s a little scoring at the top.


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Counter sprocket comes off next. Fortunately my touratech 17T has holes that we used to assist in breaking the bolt loose. Because crank locking pin is in place you do not want to put pressure on the transmission to take this bolt out. Transmission is in neutral here.


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At this point it’s time to flip the engine to remove the oil pan. But the top has delicate studs exposed. So Plan A was to lay the engine on the side but my friend has an engine frame so I’m taking a pause. Using card board we created a jig to see if his engine frame will work.


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In the mean time. The water pump gear is not spinning right. This is odd so a check shows that the gear is spinning on the shaft but not turning the pump. On the list to check later.


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Old 10-06-2011, 02:25 PM   #74
YetiGS
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: San Diego
Oddometer: 7,306
You are a brave, brave man.




Or insane.




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Old 10-06-2011, 02:57 PM   #75
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Moncton
Oddometer: 645
I'm with ya on this one...
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