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Old 09-17-2011, 12:27 AM   #46
eakins
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I opened up this can of fuel injection worms:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=725795
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Old 09-21-2011, 12:04 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Recently, I replaced the two o-rings on the float assembly. So, obviously, needed to check the float level. Manual says 14.7 + or - 1mm. Simple enough, turn the carb upside down and set the float level. Well, not really. Float level is supposed to be set with the float tab 'just' touching the needle valve. Inverting the carb 180* will compress the needle valve spring-----this isn't what they mean. Rotate the carb until the float tab contacts the pin in the needle valve, not 180*.

Someone brought this up recently, and is when I re-read the manual. YMMV, etc.
Thanks. That will get me close enough.

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Old 10-09-2011, 01:53 PM   #48
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'yer poppin' on decel cause' your pilot circuit is too lean.... pilot circuit is supposed to be about your first 1/8 of throttle. main jets really don't have anything to do w/decel popping.... you chop the throttle, close the butterfly, the engine goes lean as the high revs come down, and it pops.... i forget what pilot jet you said you have, but you may have to go a size bigger. try the pilot screw first, i dunno how your pilot screw works, some let in more air, some more fuel. whichever way, you need more fuel, and the popping will go away on decel. but.... at least in my KTM 450, too big a pilot, and it gets real hard to start when it's hot, floods real easy.... this is why the FCR's have a hot start circuit to let in more air.... on both my FCR and the kawi/keihin CV36's on my ZRX, the pilot screw lets in fuel, and screwing it out is richer.... get one of the aftermarked pilot screws that you can do w/your fingers, and adjust it as you ride around.....google pilot circuit and your carb type, and i bet you find alotta info....

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Old 10-09-2011, 02:51 PM   #49
mcperformance
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Thumb DR 650 mods.

Hi All, just reading some post & though I'd put my 2 bobs worths in.
Everything you have done is all good. As I have done some dynos from stock Muffler - Modify Original Muffler (Still quiet runs much better) - Ground out inner weld on header (Improves a bit more over stock) - sports muffler (Baffle in & out) there are considerable increases that can be made over stock without breaking the bank, while still having reliablity.
As you mentioned that you are happy with how the bike runs (not after WR 450 performance, if so get a different bike, expect to pay for it) then I suggest you do the inner weld mod as well.
I'm looking at opening up my exhaust port only (Do it on the bike) as I can block it off safely. I'm only going to open it up at the very front to alloy it to breeze that little bit better & see what we end up with.
Reason, being that to me the DR is a bike that is designed to run all day in stock trim (Realibility) but also has the protential to run much better with minor mods. (Very restricted bike in stock form)
Thanks for your time, Interested in any feed back or PM me.
Chappy.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dakar Dan View Post
I'd recommend staying with the stock set-up with only light mods (snorkel out, drilled slide and raised clip, adjustable air-fuel screw and hex-key carb bolts) in conjunction with the stock pipe as a reliable, economical ride. I also replaced my cable choke with a manual one due to sticking early on, as well as ditching the vacuum petcock when I got an IMS tank. Think of this as an easy "Stage 1" step.

The DynoJet kit is only adequate at addressing some of the stock carb's shortcomings and if you're going to go down the path of fettling, then save your bucks towards the FCR carb. IMHO "Stage 2" mods like this are really still a compromise around the BST-40's CV design.

As for "Stage 3", if you fit an aftermarket pipe and perform any airbox surgery, you really begin to out-gun the CV carb. It's then a slippery slope of experimentation unless you commit to a pumper carb as well. I now run a TK alloy pipe with stock header (will have weld ground down when I get it ceramic coated later), FCR39_MX carb (ex-MxRob), open top airbox with Twin Air filter. Bear in mind that this is all bolt-on work without any internal engine mods (cams, piston etc.) or porting/ valve jobs as a true Stage 3 progression would entail.

This combo makes the DR a different bike altogether. It doesn't transform it into a snarling, ill-mannered beast but certainly gives it more of an iron fist in a velvet glove feeling. Starts easy, runs smooth, no more farting at the table and excellent throttle response all the way through the range. Economy has dipped slightly but with the better tractability, I'll be returning to the higher stock ratio at chain & sprocket change time, which will restore some fuel range again. It's been said many times before but the overwhelming feeling is that this is the carb that the bike should have left the factory with in the first place, making it into a true thumper.
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:55 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davesupreme View Post
'yer poppin' on decel cause' your pilot circuit is too lean....
Not sure who this is aimed at but the DR pops because the carb doesn't have an enrichener circuit.
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Old 11-13-2011, 03:54 PM   #51
ER70S-2
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Carb Cable Adjustment

There is a cable adjuster for the throttle cable, up by the front brake master cylinder (more adjustment is available at the carb, if needed). The return cable needs to be adjusted at the carb and the gas tank will need to be off. Just press on the cables, like the arrows, and tighten until there is just a tiny bit of slack. I tighten my throttle until I can't hear the 'closed click' in the carb (not the throttle tube), then loosen a half turn or so.

There must be a tiny bit of slack in both cables when you're done.
Pic stolen from Wibby, post #1287 in the DR650 thread:



Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_PDX View Post
And be sure to double check the slack at full right and left turn of the bars

Jon...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 12-15-2011 at 09:59 PM
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Old 12-15-2011, 10:27 PM   #52
ER70S-2
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Carb Inlet Fuel Filter

Where is it?



It's in there pretty snug, I used a dull shop knife to get it loose.




This one has 28,000 miles and has never been cleaned. These dirt specks were invisible to my old eyes.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 06-05-2012 at 11:01 AM
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Old 12-16-2011, 10:01 PM   #53
eakins
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my IMS petcock > filter > oem carb (inlet in original position) setup.
works great and i've gotten to 1/2" of fuel in the tank and zero flow issues (loop is not a problem).
ziptied at the exit of the filter and wrapped around the carb inlet to keep the tube tight and back under the tank. inlet filter is gone. IMS petcock filter catches most of the debris and this filter gets the rest.
IMS petcock works great, used washers on the tank bolts and snugged down the small philips when 1st installed. Haven't touched since, after 2+ years no issues. See no need to upgrade to raptor petcock.
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eakins screwed with this post 12-16-2011 at 10:07 PM
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Old 12-16-2011, 10:14 PM   #54
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TM-40 buy

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mikuni-TM40-6-Carburetor-40mm-Carb-Honda-XR650-/170721575470?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item27bfcc822e

Would this fit on the 05 DR650? This is much cheaper than Procycle TM-40
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Old 12-16-2011, 10:41 PM   #55
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Heres what has worked for me.

Heres what i have done to my 07 DR650 at 10000 miles did the air box mod, FMF Q2 Quiet version, 150 main jet from Procycle, Mixture screw adjustable at 1 1/2 turns out, KN airfilter with foam pre filter, 4th position on the clip, no extra hole for improved response.
The results are alot more mid and low end range, it does have some light pops on deceleration but not to bad. I get 50-55 mpg and it is a blast to ride now, i have a hard time keeping a rear tire on it! It does every thing i ask it to has been very dependable. It will do 70 mph down the gravel or road fully loaded. I love this bike.
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Old 12-19-2011, 01:06 PM   #56
ER70S-2
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Idle Fuel Screw

There's a flush brass cap on the stock set-up, easy to see with a mirror. When I did mine, I removed the carb, but left the throttle cables attached (seemed easiest). You'll have to loosen the two carb clamps to twist the carb so you can drill a small hole in the plug (1/8" or thereabouts). Remember that there are two hoses on the right side of the carb that fit tightly, they'll resist letting the carb twist and it seems the throttle cables also hit the frame backbone. That's why I pulled the carb loose. Once you have the pilot hole drilled, use a small self tapping screw to pull the plug. It isn't in there very tight, mine twisted a little when the bit grabbed. Go gently, the fuel screw is right under the plug, 3/16" maybe.

If you want to remove the throttle cable bracket, those two screws were the tightest I've found on the DR, almost 'red Loctite' tight. If I didn't have an impact driver, they weren't coming out. Have two allen heads to replace them, for future ease of disassembly.

Here's where to look:

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 03-25-2012, 12:28 PM   #57
ER70S-2
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Petcock Vacuum



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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 11-06-2012 at 07:27 PM
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Old 04-17-2012, 11:00 AM   #58
Nessman
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Location: Everett, WA
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Here's mine...

'05 DR650 goes like stink, makes me do stupid things and makes commuting a joy. Street only with Shinko 705s.

I only get 30mpg and I'd like to fix that.

What I have
-Top cut out of airbox with foam filter
-What appears to be the Dynojet needle with the clip just over halfway up.
-42.5 idle, there's something before the 42.5 but I can't make out what it is.
-160 main, just 160, no other markings.
-Aftermarket longer mix screw out just over one turn.

Is that a full DJ kit or bitsa?

I know pop-a-wheelies out of corners and wannabe supermotoing don't help but they are fun....
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Old 04-17-2012, 12:44 PM   #59
sagedrifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nessman View Post
Here's mine...

'05 DR650 goes like stink, makes me do stupid things and makes commuting a joy. Street only with Shinko 705s.

I only get 30mpg and I'd like to fix that.

What I have
-Top cut out of airbox with foam filter
-What appears to be the Dynojet needle with the clip just over halfway up.
-42.5 idle, there's something before the 42.5 but I can't make out what it is.
-160 main, just 160, no other markings.
-Aftermarket longer mix screw out just over one turn.

Is that a full DJ kit or bitsa?

I know pop-a-wheelies out of corners and wannabe supermotoing don't help but they are fun....
That's the usual set up for a free flowing exhaust.

30 mpg is very bad. I would fix that now. Check your oil and make sure your not dumping fuel in the sump.

Its probably a leaking petcock or dried out o-rings on the float. Maybe a worn float needle too.

Procycle sells a refresh kit with the rubber parts.

Float height needs to be .58" and make sure its all air inside. Old floats can leak and get heavy.

I would guess its the o-rings.

Sent from my GT-S5690L using Tapatalk 2
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Old 04-17-2012, 02:08 PM   #60
Nessman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
That's the usual set up for a free flowing exhaust.

30 mpg is very bad. I would fix that now. Check your oil and make sure your not dumping fuel in the sump.

Its probably a leaking petcock or dried out o-rings on the float. Maybe a worn float needle too.

Procycle sells a refresh kit with the rubber parts.

Float height needs to be .58" and make sure its all air inside. Old floats can leak and get heavy.

I would guess its the o-rings.

Sent from my GT-S5690L using Tapatalk 2
Thanks Drifter.

I've got a stock exhaust, what should my jetting be?

It runs fat, no choke required at start so I think I'm fighting a jetting problem. No fuel in the oil and the float is high and dry.
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