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Old 10-14-2011, 04:05 AM   #121
Dieselboy OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden View Post
I found what I was looking for ... Joel's comment on the noise:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=19
Again, good post. So initial rattle no major issue (as I always believed prior to this thread.) But now mine does not rattle at all-- even better.


For the record my left cover was tightened per the book (both sequence and torque) and that is what I show in the pics.
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Old 10-14-2011, 05:04 AM   #122
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I'm not sure when mine started ... it did NOT do it when it was brand new, but only started sometime later....
It does only do it on a cold start for 1-3 seconds.....

DB: Did you replace your tensioner assembly during this rodeo?
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Old 10-14-2011, 05:49 AM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden View Post
I'm not sure when mine started ... it did NOT do it when it was brand new, but only started sometime later....
It does only do it on a cold start for 1-3 seconds.....

DB: Did you replace your tensioner assembly during this rodeo?
Tensioner was replaced two weeks prior to this surgery. And it will get replaced in 25000 miles regardless.
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Old 10-14-2011, 08:18 AM   #124
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Originally Posted by Dieselboy View Post
Tensioner was replaced two weeks prior to this surgery. And it will get replaced in 25000 miles regardless.
Seems like cheap insurance ... esp. after seeing the "photo shoot"
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Old 10-14-2011, 09:04 AM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselboy View Post
Tensioner was replaced two weeks prior to this surgery. And it will get replaced in 25000 miles regardless.
You should do a photo DIY for replacing the tensioner.



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Old 10-14-2011, 09:35 AM   #126
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You should do a photo DIY for replacing the tensioner.



+1
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Old 10-17-2011, 04:58 PM   #127
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Great job. I'll have to print it and keep for reference.

The dealer changed the tensioner as the bike was rattling considerably until it warmed up. At startup it would rattle a bit, and get quiet. After that, it would cycle every second or so rattling, quiet, rattling, quiet. and so on until warmed up. They said the tensioner was 'bleeding' too much oil? I haven't had a chance to ride it too much since I got it back. Having fun with the DR350 on the greasy trails
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Old 10-19-2011, 06:02 PM   #128
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First off,Excellent job !!

Second,on the coolant bleeding issue;if you have an old radiator cap,you could drill a hole in the top of it,attatch and seal a "nipple"(something to attatch a vacuum hose to) then attatch a hose and vacuum pump to it.

once you fill it,put it under vacuum-this should draw all the ait bubbles to the radiator cap.
Rinse/repeat till it stays full after vacuum.
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:23 PM   #129
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Great Job DieselBoy !!!

Did you determine how much the stock chain stretched over the new chain?
No measurement made. I didn't think I could get an accurate measurement without investing more time than I was willing to invest.
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Old 10-21-2011, 03:32 PM   #130
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Fantastic write up!

Side question: for rivet-type master links, can't one simply grind the rivet heads off, install the chain, then reuse the existing plates from the disassembled link and just replace the pins?
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Old 01-29-2012, 03:33 AM   #131
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Originally Posted by rritterson View Post
Fantastic write up!

Side question: for rivet-type master links, can't one simply grind the rivet heads off, install the chain, then reuse the existing plates from the disassembled link and just replace the pins?
replacing on a hy vo chain ....

http://home.earthlink.net/~wrenchtwister/camtool.pdf

some chain specs
http://www.reginachain.it/eng/produc...da_morse.shtml
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chadams screwed with this post 01-29-2012 at 04:36 AM
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Old 02-08-2012, 09:48 PM   #132
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Why do we need master links?
Is there any reason to replace more than one pin? Pushing one pin out will break the chain, attach it to the old one and pull it around then replace the pin. I wouldn't think it would be that hard even if someone had to custom machine new pins

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bayner View Post
Dieselboy, I'm looking through specs but I need to also know the width of the chain -the measurement of the thickness of the stack of side plates the pins are holding together. And just to confirm those pins are round, rather than an oblong or noticeably triangular shape, right?

Or if you're bored, you can snoop through here:
http://www.tayloredge.com/reference/...ilentChain.pdf

http://chain-guide.com/toc.html
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Old 02-09-2012, 08:38 PM   #133
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How many links are there in the f800gs timing chain? Thanks
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Old 02-10-2012, 02:48 AM   #134
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f800gs part number.... finally found one 98XRH2015

Now where to but one with a master link

http://www.orakorbike.sk/!img/upload...rse_retaze.pdf


PS: Why I have so much interest in cam chains at the moment. My f800gs has just under 90,000km, with a very loud cam chain and a broken chain jump guard above the exhaust cam sprocket. I don't wan't to split the case, but I'm yet to find a master link for this chain.
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Old 02-10-2012, 03:30 AM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadams View Post
f800gs part number.... finally found one 98XRH2015

Now where to but one with a master link

http://www.orakorbike.sk/!img/upload/file/morse_retaze.pdf


PS: Why I have so much interest in cam chains at the moment. My f800gs has just under 90,000km, with a very loud cam chain and a broken chain jump guard above the exhaust cam sprocket. I don't wan't to split the case, but I'm yet to find a master link for this chain.
Mate that is an amazing find!!! Morse is a part of the Borg Warner group so this makes perfect sense!!

I did some more searching and found which other bikes use that same chain:




I haven't been able to find a split link for it yet, most OEMs seem to use/sell that chain in an endless configuration.

But it's a big step in the right direction so let's all keep digging!
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