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Old 02-12-2011, 07:08 PM   #16
ER70S-2
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Front Brake 'Spring Pad'

#4 here:
http://www.bikebandit.com/2000-suzuk...5882#sch240779

Goes here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...03&postcount=5
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Quote:
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Old 10-24-2011, 08:00 PM   #17
petie
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Just a bump, has anyone swapped out the original master cylinder for an aftermarket one?

Cheers
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Old 10-25-2011, 12:23 AM   #18
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macdesign View Post
Someone a while back swapped a smaller bore diameter front brake master cylinder onto the DR, from an ATV I think, but I can't find any posts relating to it.
Can anyone refresh my memory?
The 11mm RMZ 450 master cylinder works,no mirror boss and a pressure switch banjo bolt needed.
The stock DR650 clutch cable fits up to the RMZ clutch perch and lever also,quality parts and shorter levers unlike the bargain basement DR items.

This picture needs updating as it was before the pressure switch banjo bolt arrived.





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Old 10-25-2011, 08:00 PM   #19
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another way to approach would be upgrade rotor to something larger and keep oem master cyl.
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#brakes

i use a XR400 clutch perch and lever on my bike w/ one of those car clamps that have the place for a mirror mount.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
The 11mm RMZ 450 master cylinder works,no mirror boss and a pressure switch banjo bolt needed.
The stock DR650 clutch cable fits up to the RMZ clutch perch and lever also,quality parts and shorter levers unlike the bargain basement DR items.

This picture needs updating as it was before the pressure switch banjo bolt arrived.





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Old 10-25-2011, 11:53 PM   #20
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
another way to approach would be upgrade rotor to something larger and keep oem master cyl.
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#brakes
I had fitted the 320 mm EBC rotor years ago along with a braided line with the stock master cylinder.
Current set up is a DR650 wheel/axle with DR EBC 320mm rotor in RMZ forks with a RMZ450 caliper adapter and master cylinder.
Custom built braided line.
Rear is a EBC rotor and Procycle braided hose.
Procycle SM wheel set.

Dirt spec is RMZ450 front wheel with a stock RMZ rotor and DR rear wheel with a stock rotor.

With the as delivered DR brakes,braided brake lines made the biggest difference followed by different pads.
The braided line meant you could use the stock front brake to its limit due to the feedback delivered which was not possible with the stock long rubber brake line swelling under application.
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:38 AM   #21
macdesign
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Thanks for the info

Thanks for that ADV8 ..... and eakins!
It took a while but we got the answer.

I've currently got a Motomaster 320 disc and 4 pot caliper, a Brembo KTM 640 master cylinder, a HEL braided steel line on a 17" road tyre.
We'll see how it goes once it hits the road.

Cheers

Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV8 View Post
The 11mm RMZ 450 master cylinder works,no mirror boss and a pressure switch banjo bolt needed.
The stock DR650 clutch cable fits up to the RMZ clutch perch and lever also,quality parts and shorter levers unlike the bargain basement DR items.

This picture needs updating as it was before the pressure switch banjo bolt arrived.





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macdesign screwed with this post 10-26-2011 at 02:44 AM
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Old 12-28-2011, 02:51 PM   #22
ER70S-2
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Rear Brake Grease Zerk

I've never liked that the rear brake pedal has to be removed to grease it. There's no bushing, wear is permanent in the frame. So I've done this to several of my previous bikes. I usually drill and tap a hole in the frame, but there isn't a good place for the zerk. This idea was from another member earlier in the DR thread, once he said 10mm zerk, I figured out what he meant. He hammered in a wood plug on the backside, I did this.

My pegs are down and back 1", this puts my heel nearer the zerk, but it hasn't broken off in the last 7k miles, so there is enough room. I didn't have a 10 x 1mm bolt so I used a 10 x 1.25 (the zerk is 10 x 1mm). This means that I used two different taps.



The pedal is upside down in the pic, the wear is on the bottom side and that's where you want the grease. I drilled the grease hole the same size as the cotter pin.
Cut the head off of your bolt, notch with a hacksaw or cut-off wheel and test fit.



Make sure the plug goes in far enough to completely clear the cotter pin. It's hard enough to get that pin in there, no reason to make it a tight fit.
Remove plug, Loctite, re-install, yer done. Disclaimer: this will make a mess down at the pedal, but it's better than the wear.
Next time I have it apart, I'll shim the 'in and out' play tighter, I think it's about 1/16" and lets grease flow through easily.

Edit: I'll put an O-ring over the shaft, between the frame and pedal.



The zerk is 10 x 1mm thread, and it's easy to see the size difference.







Edit:

Adding the o-ring(s): The first attempt was with a 1/16" o-ring, which wasn't much better than before. So I headed over to the local Ace Hardware to look at o-rings. Although individual clear plastic packaging costs more per piece, it made looking at my options much easier. Any time someone asked if I needed help: "Nope, just engineering, thanks." So I bought a range of 'guesstimated' sizes and headed home.

This is where I ended up:



If you look closely, there is a slight bulge in the o-ring on the left side (end of weld bump). It's what makes this o-ring work. That bump makes the o-ring try to slide off; lightly pressing it against the pedal, becoming a second seal.


The idea works because the smaller o-ring on the pedal shaft is lightly compressed; this is the clamp I used to do that. The split clamp design allowed the shaft to press through the frame and I was able to push the cotter key in by hand.


Here's what you need to know (the right package says 3/4 x 9/16 x 3/32):



I was really pleased because it takes a bit of pressure with the grease gun, no more 'free-flow'.
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2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 04-01-2013 at 10:27 PM
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Old 02-24-2012, 04:54 PM   #23
basketcase
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Lowered pegs and adjusting the rear brake

Okay. It's dark. It's cold. And I'm scratching my head on something that should be simple.

I just installed the Procycle peg lowering kit and adjusting the rear brake pedal height is perplexing me.

If I adjust the screw far enough to get the pedal level with the plane of the peg surface I don't get any grip at the brakes.

If I adjust the screw to get a grip a the brakes, the pedal height in relationship to the plane of the peg is too high.

Sooo ... what's the fix?

Thanks in advance,
Rick

Via edit - It does have the SW Moto-tech centerstand installed.
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basketcase screwed with this post 02-25-2012 at 03:33 PM
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Old 02-24-2012, 09:20 PM   #24
ER70S-2
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Look at the pic right above your post, it's my bike with lowered pegs (down 1" and back 1"). Notice the threaded portion on the master cylinder rod, it's shorter than the stock setup IIRC. What I had to do was disassemble the linkage enough to grind the lower end off of that rod: 1/4" - 5/16". This will allow the rear end of the brake pedal (at the clevis pin), to draw upward enough to lower the pedal itself. You can also see how far the brake is below the clutch cover and where it was scratching.

Without grinding the end of the rod off, it hits the clevis pin rear end of the brake, preventing the pedal from adjusting lower (higher at the rear). Removing 1/4" - 5/16" will still allow the brake pedal to be set back up to the stock height.

I also had to extend the brake spring about an inch, it was too tight. You can see the gaps between the coils.

Well, I understand what I said.
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2004 DR650: 59,658 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 03-08-2012 at 10:58 AM
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:42 AM   #25
basketcase
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Thanks, and I follow what you are saying.

After fiddling with it this morning I can get the adjustment set to where I have brakes, but the pedal tip is still slightly higher than the plane of the footrest. Just as soon as I go into the woods with it like that and stand up on the pegs I'll be tapping the pedal whether I want to or not.

So I'm going to need to pull the lever off and grind a bit from the bottom to get the clearance I need, and I have two questions:

1. (a) What's the trick to removing the pedal lever and (b) disconnecting the master cylinder shackle? My manual is loaned out so I am having trouble getting an "exploded" view.

2. How much metal to remove from the bottom of the lever?

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Old 02-25-2012, 11:24 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
1. (a) What's the trick to removing the pedal lever and (b) disconnecting the master cylinder shackle? My manual is loaned out so I am having trouble getting an "exploded" view.
Split pin on the inside of the frame to remove the pedal.
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Old 02-25-2012, 12:20 PM   #27
basketcase
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Split pin on the inside of the frame to remove the pedal.
Roger that. I just got in from giving it a spic and span wash job. That might simplify the "what am I looking at" quotient.
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Old 02-25-2012, 01:28 PM   #28
ADV8
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Location: North of Sydney.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macdesign View Post
Thanks for that ADV8 ..... and eakins!
It took a while but we got the answer.

I've currently got a Motomaster 320 disc and 4 pot caliper, a Brembo KTM 640 master cylinder, a HEL braided steel line on a 17" road tyre.
We'll see how it goes once it hits the road.

Cheers
That set up is getting changed again.
I now have a 4 piston Brembo caliper and looking for a adapter.



Will look at seeing if a RMZ hub will work with the Procycle DR SM wheel,new 320 mm rotor with the master cylinder being a Brembo 15 mm radial,a 16 mm Yamaha radial or perhaps one off a single caliper Ducati.
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Old 02-25-2012, 02:30 PM   #29
sagedrifter
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With the procycle lowerd pegs I had to grind about 3/16" off the brake lever. I do have the center stand too, so grinding is a must if you want a rear brake and the pc lowerd pegs.

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Old 02-25-2012, 08:45 PM   #30
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basketcase View Post
Thanks, and I follow what you are saying.

So I'm going to need to pull the lever off and grind a bit from the bottom to get the clearance I need

2. How much metal to remove from the bottom of the lever threaded rod?

Edit: I missed Sagedrifter's point about grinding 3/16" off the brake lever with PC lowered pegs, so this may be a different issue:

1/4" to 5/16", far enough to get your pedal below the peg. You don't have to remove the pedal or brake cylinder. Pull the clevis pin (cotter pin hiding on the back side), loosen the 10mm nut on the rod, remove the clevis and grind the rod while still hanging from the brake cylinder: Warning, this is a good place to hurt yourself. I didn't know how to remove the rod from the brake cylinder and I had to grind, fit, grind, fit etc. so I needed the rod in place anyway.

Another point to check: after readjusting, my pedal hit on the front of the lowering bracket (template graciously provided by NordieBoy), stopping downward motion (no brake); so I removed a bit from it and the pedal to allow clearance.

ADV8:
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2004 DR650: 59,658 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 02-25-2012 at 09:04 PM
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