Yamaha RD350 clean up/rebuild *Help*

[thomasac92]

I'm soaking one of the carbs now but I couldn't get the bowl off the bottom of the other one. Any tricks for this?

I definitely don't want to ruin the bike which is why I'm reading as much as I can about each piece before I try and mess with it. I'm probably going to ask a lot of stupid questions.

[lrutt]

Originally Posted by thomasac92

I'm soaking one of the carbs now but I couldn't get the bowl off the bottom of the other one. Any tricks for this?

I definitely don't want to ruin the bike which is why I'm reading as much as I can about each piece before I try and mess with it. I'm probably going to ask a lot of stupid questions.

Where exactly are you located?

I'm in Deltona and have a lot of experience rebuilding bikes. If you're close by I could give you some face to face advice etc. or you could stop by and I'd help you with things like the carbs etc.

[JonnyCash]

Originally Posted by lrutt

Where exactly are you located?

I'm in Deltona and have a lot of experience rebuilding bikes. If you're close by I could give you some face to face advice etc. or you could stop by and I'd help you with things like the carbs etc.

Thomas, you should have dinner waiting for him, and be in your French maid outfit when he arrives. Well maybe, not the second part, but you want to make him feel appreciated. This is the kind of help you need, real hands-on face to face help.

[thomasac92]

Originally Posted by lrutt

Where exactly are you located?

I'm in Deltona and have a lot of experience rebuilding bikes. If you're close by I could give you some face to face advice etc. or you could stop by and I'd help you with things like the carbs etc.

I live a few blocks from downtown orlando. But I don't have a car. Strictly bicycle until I finish this. But my parents live in Deltona so maybe we could work something out when I'm visiting them.

[concours]

Originally Posted by thomasac92

I'm soaking one of the carbs now but I couldn't get the bowl off the bottom of the other one. Any tricks for this?

I definitely don't want to ruin the bike which is why I'm reading as much as I can about each piece before I try and mess with it. I'm probably going to ask a lot of stupid questions.

Yes, the "trick" is to put down the phillips screwdriver you are using, search for a JIS #2 that will fit those screws properly. Get a #1 and 3 while you're at it. That's Japanese Industrial Standard, Repeat, JIS, JIS, JIS, JIS!!!!!! And some decent 6 point metric sockets. http://www.ikaswebshop.com/jisphilips.html and http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...=1319714023792
And also a GOOD (NOT Crapsman) set of metric allen wrenches, 4, 5, 6, 8 and 10mm. Bondhus is a decent brand. http://bondhus.com/products/l-wrenches/body32.htm Have fun!

[woody's wheel works]

Originally Posted by thomasac92

I'm soaking one of the carbs now but I couldn't get the bowl off the bottom of the other one. Any tricks for this?

I definitely don't want to ruin the bike which is why I'm reading as much as I can about each piece before I try and mess with it. I'm probably going to ask a lot of stupid questions.

most folks here have chimed in with some solid suggestions namely:

1,,have the proper tools for the job which includes phillips screwdriver bits that fit

2,, if you don't mind having a plain aluminum carb,,well then soak your carb in the berrymans,,because an hour or more it will act like a paint-stripper and all the black will just melt and wash off when you rinse

3,,heat and compressed air and a hand held impact are the restorers best allies,,don't have hand held impact ,,no sweat ,ya can improvise by using your screwdriver and a leather/plastic mallet and giving the screw a good wack using the proper bit of course,,,some screw drivers have a little hex bolt head near the handle ,,,that's so you can put the box end of wrench and use it for leverage[make sure ya really push in to the screw with your handle before slowly attempting to bust it loose...FYI,,,no hex head on screwdriver,,ya can always improvise with some channel locks or vise grips.. i use a dedicated beater screwdriver with a good tip.

4,,the sticking float bowel,,Rx=spray a little carb cleaner around the perimeter by the gasket,,next squirt some carb cleaner into the fuel spigot and slosh it around so the gasket gets soaked inside and out,,,let it soak for 20 minutes applying a little more cleaner if it looks dried out,,,next grab the carb in your palm and with a plastic mallet rap the lower edge of the float bowel..that'll do it most of the time...escalating the pressure i mov eon to holding the carb sometimes i take a shop rag and wrap the carb why??? because i'm going to apply a little compressed air into the fuel spigot with one of those air guns that has a pointed rubber tip on it [harbor freight has em for circa $5],,,,and i don't want the float bowel to go flying across the room when it pops off

5,, at this stage you can do a pre- soak n clean or you can just go for removing all the jets and components,,,the pilot jet warrants a small slender common screwdriver that has a head that is pretty close to the diameter of the hole[i usually have to modify the screwdriver by grinding the part of the blade off so that i have maximum purchase on the jet]
the bit about finding the slot of the pilot jet and the giving the lil screwdriver a little rap works wonders at loosening it

6,,the pilot jet hole is so tiny ,,,about the diameter of a bristle on a wire brush[use the bristle to unplug the dirt n gunk that's built up in the orifice,,,blow out with compressed air,,this applies to all the other jets in th ecarb

you'll know if those jets are plugged because your bike will start but consisntently die when you return your enrichening lever to the off position

7,,warning,,do not mix up your float bowels or your carb slides !!!they have dedicated left and right components that can be swapped with dismaying results...like your enrichening system won't work [reversed float bowels,,,or you'll flood the motor with the slides reversed and so on

that should get ya in and out of the woods

woody

[thomasac92]

Thanks a lot woody! That really helps!

I'll make sure to pick up some JIS tools as well.

Is there a site to buy just the rubber gaskets for the carbs? Or would I have to buy the whole rebuild kit?

[SOLO LOBO]

Originally Posted by thomasac92

Thanks a lot woody! That really helps!

I'll make sure to pick up some JIS tools as well.

Is there a site to buy just the rubber gaskets for the carbs? Or would I have to buy the whole rebuild kit?

The rebuild kits are a great idea... many contain all the rubber bits, new jets as well as those pesky screws from the bottom of the float bowls.

[concours]

Originally Posted by woody's wheel works

most folks here have chimed in with some solid suggestions namely:

1,,have the proper tools for the job which includes phillips screwdriver bits that fit

2,, if you don't mind having a plain aluminum carb,,well then soak your carb in the berrymans,,because an hour or more it will act like a paint-stripper and all the black will just melt and wash off when you rinse

3,,heat and compressed air and a hand held impact are the restorers best allies,,don't have hand held impact ,,no sweat ,ya can improvise by using your screwdriver and a leather/plastic mallet and giving the screw a good wack using the proper bit of course,,,some screw drivers have a little hex bolt head near the handle ,,,that's so you can put the box end of wrench and use it for leverage[make sure ya really push in to the screw with your handle before slowly attempting to bust it loose...FYI,,,no hex head on screwdriver,,ya can always improvise with some channel locks or vise grips.. i use a dedicated beater screwdriver with a good tip.

4,,the sticking float bowel,,Rx=spray a little carb cleaner around the perimeter by the gasket,,next squirt some carb cleaner into the fuel spigot and slosh it around so the gasket gets soaked inside and out,,,let it soak for 20 minutes applying a little more cleaner if it looks dried out,,,next grab the carb in your palm and with a plastic mallet rap the lower edge of the float bowel..that'll do it most of the time...escalating the pressure i mov eon to holding the carb sometimes i take a shop rag and wrap the carb why??? because i'm going to apply a little compressed air into the fuel spigot with one of those air guns that has a pointed rubber tip on it [harbor freight has em for circa $5],,,,and i don't want the float bowel to go flying across the room when it pops off

5,, at this stage you can do a pre- soak n clean or you can just go for removing all the jets and components,,,the pilot jet warrants a small slender common screwdriver that has a head that is pretty close to the diameter of the hole[i usually have to modify the screwdriver by grinding the part of the blade off so that i have maximum purchase on the jet]
the bit about finding the slot of the pilot jet and the giving the lil screwdriver a little rap works wonders at loosening it

6,,the pilot jet hole is so tiny ,,,about the diameter of a bristle on a wire brush[use the bristle to unplug the dirt n gunk that's built up in the orifice,,,blow out with compressed air,,this applies to all the other jets in th ecarb

you'll know if those jets are plugged because your bike will start but consisntently die when you return your enrichening lever to the off position

7,,warning,,do not mix up your float bowels or your carb slides !!!they have dedicated left and right components that can be swapped with dismaying results...like your enrichening system won't work [reversed float bowels,,,or you'll flood the motor with the slides reversed and so on

that should get ya in and out of the woods

woody

We call those "panel" or "cabinet" screwdrivers http://wihatools.com/300seri/302serie.htm

The bowls and slides are identical for both sides.

Study a diagram before you begin, it'll help you understand the assembly. http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...7510#sch209372

[woody's wheel works]

Originally Posted by concours

We call those "panel" or "cabinet" screwdrivers http://wihatools.com/300seri/302serie.htm

The bowls and slides are identical for both sides.

Study a diagram before you begin, it'll help you understand the assembly. http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...7510#sch209372

1,,,i bet when you take the slides and place them next to each other you'll find the idle adjustment ramp to be on the outboard position and the guide rail on the inward side

2,,,i bet that when you place the left and right float bowels side by side you'll find that the enriching gas gets sucked up from the right float bowel transfers to the left enriching circuits via the little rubber tube that is in between the carbs,,,you can tell because the right side has a hole drilled to the enriching fuel pick-up passageway whereas the left one remains undrilled.

3,,i bet the right carb has a little brass tube that drops into the passageway i mentioned in #2 whereas the left carb is void of a pick-up tube

but hey,,that's from a 35 years ago

i saw the parts diagram you linked us to,,,maybe i'll see if i can get ya a different drawing,,in the meantime thomasac92,,why not double check what ya have ...
w

[chazbird]

I say go for it! Why? 1. It is a first year RD350 and it looks to be entirely original, no big dollars finding things. 2. Go slow, get all the good help you can and before you fire it up take it to someone who'll double check it all. 3. A friend had never had a motorcycle, although he built bicycles, bought a couple boxes of late 60's Honda CL350 parts and built a perfect runner & looker. He did it, you can too.
4. Its' an RD350! (full recuse/disclosure former RD owner/rider).

[concours]

Originally Posted by woody's wheel works

1,,,i bet when you take the slides and place them next to each other you'll find the idle adjustment ramp to be on the outboard position and the guide rail on the inward side

2,,,i bet that when you place the left and right float bowels side by side you'll find that the enrichening gas gets sucked up from the right float bowel transfers to the left enrichening circuits via the little rubber tube that is in between the carbs,,,you can tell because the right side has a hole drilled to the enrichening fuel pick-up passageway whereas the left one remains undrilled.

3,,i bet the right carb has a little brass tube that drops intot he passageway i mentioned in #2 wheras the left carb is void of a pick-up tube

but hey,,that's from a35 years ago

i saw the parts diagram you linked us to,,,maybe i'll see if i can get ya a differen't drawing,,in the meantime thomasac92,,why not double check what ya have ...
w

I hang my head in shame. 1973 fiche shows you are correct on the slides. It was 1978 when I last did a top end on an RD350. http://www.starmotorcycles.com/partv..._(RD350_-_1973)

[JonnyCash]

Originally Posted by woody's wheel works

1,,,i bet when you take the slides and place them next to each other you'll find the idle adjustment ramp to be on the outboard position and the guide rail on the inward side

2,,,i bet that when you place the left and right float bowels side by side you'll find that the enrichening gas gets sucked up from the right float bowel transfers to the left enrichening circuits via the little rubber tube that is in between the carbs,,,you can tell because the right side has a hole drilled to the enrichening fuel pick-up passageway whereas the left one remains undrilled.

3,,i bet the right carb has a little brass tube that drops intot he passageway i mentioned in #2 wheras the left carb is void of a pick-up tube

but hey,,that's from a35 years ago

i saw the parts diagram you linked us to,,,maybe i'll see if i can get ya a differen't drawing,,in the meantime thomasac92,,why not double check what ya have ...
w

You got all this right, except the choke is on the left side on and RD. Oh, and carbs don't have bowels, they have bowls.

[woody's wheel works]

Originally Posted by JonnyCash

You got all this right, except the choke is on the left side on and RD. Oh, and carbs don't have bowels, they have bowls.

hey jonny,,ya got to me,,,these days i have a hard time differntiating if the bowl or the bowels are moving,,either way,,stay out of the way

regarding the ''choke'' don' think i ever would have used that word on any RD since they don't sport chokes[ a device that ''chokes '' off the air supply on the air filter side of the carb versus an ''enriching system' used on all RDs,,,it uses the throttle slide in the complete down position to actualize itself ie the slide is essentially what the guillotine choke is in a ''choke'' system


so FYI when it's cold outside and you want o start your RD you essentially have to leave your hands off the throttle in order for the 'enriching ' sytem to work

soon
woody

[JonnyCash]

Originally Posted by woody's wheel works

hey jonny,,ya got to me,,,these days i have a hard time differntiating if the bowl or the bowels are moving,,either way,,stay out of the way

regarding the ''choke'' don' think i ever would have used that word on any RD since they don't sport chokes[ a device that ''chokes '' off the air supply on the air filter side of the carb versus an ''enriching system' used on all RDs,,,it uses the throttle slide in the complete down position to actualize itself ie the slide is essentially what the guillotine choke is in a ''choke'' system


so FYI when it's cold outside and you want o start your RD you essentially have to leave your hands off the throttle in order for the 'enriching ' sytem to work

soon
woody

I know, I know. Choke is one syllable, enrichener is four. It even says choke on the lever.