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Old 11-10-2011, 08:31 AM   #271
larryboy OP
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Originally Posted by Garthe View Post
Rob, how many days did it take you...........?

Well, the wife went to Oregon over Labor Day weekend and I ripped "her" motorcycle in half and started selling off stuff I didn't need anymore.

I've got over 200 hours of labor in it, so..eight hours per day...something like 30 days of actual garage time. Probably 5 eight hour days of research and parts ordering.

I really had some awesome guys step up with suggestions, hands on help, free parts, tool loans and long distance coaching. I couldn't have done it without their help...thanks dewds!!

Without somebody smart enough to talk to the ignition company this wouldn't have happened at all...thanks Poolside!!
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Old 11-10-2011, 10:13 AM   #272
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I was listening to this song when I decided to do the build. It's called 'Road Zombie' by Social Distortion.


The full build in minutes, from start to finish:


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Old 11-10-2011, 12:55 PM   #273
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Threw in a quick valve adjustment, right side exhausts were way sloppy...might be rocker shaft bushings or a crappy adjustment by the last person to do it. Used JVB's HOW article to find the specs, thanks dude, I didn't read the whole thread, but I don't recommend the feeler across both valves...that takes the feel away and that's the whole point.




I tried for an hour to get the idle to 1000 rpm and it just won't do it, it upsets the carb balance for some reason that is beyond me. At 800 rpm I can dial the sync down to perfect. On the plus side, the valve adjustment took care of the off idle stutter...the right cylinder just never felt right until the adjust. On a bike I'm trying to dial in for performance I set to the tight side, especially a bike like this that is so easy to get to. Don't argue, I've done thousands of valve adjustments...I quit a job because I couldn't take one more frickin valve adjustment on a Cummins 8.3.




Took it for a spin and replaced a bolt for the right peg that ripped the threads out when I took it out. Found a leak at the top of the clutch slave, the slave looks new, but the crush washers look old...come on people.








I need a vacation. Gonna put together a better than normal set of tools to take on this trip tomorrow and hopefully I can just sit in the hot springs and relax for the first time in months.
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Old 11-10-2011, 01:05 PM   #274
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I need a vacation. Gonna put together a better than normal set of tools to take on this trip tomorrow and hopefully I can just sit in the hot springs and relax for the first time in months.
You mean you're not gonna take a laptop and write the whole time you're gone???



That video looked great - I like how you timed the images to the beat of the music.

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Old 11-10-2011, 02:20 PM   #275
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Good on ya Rob!!
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Old 11-10-2011, 11:12 PM   #276
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You mean you're not gonna take a laptop and write the whole time you're gone???



That video looked great - I like how you timed the images to the beat of the music.


Maybe I'll blog with pen and paper?



Quote:
Originally Posted by redpillar View Post
Good on ya Rob!!

Thanks Ralph!!


Ok, figured out why I couldn't get my idle any higher...had the tach set wrong.

Kept it pinned in third to test the rev limiter and it stopped at 3400 on the tach and the Volker box stops it around 6500 rpm I think. I'm not gonna fiddle with it anymore right now, but I set the dash to read the revs right.

I found a set of taller risers here in the garage, I'll take them with me, ride down on this set to see how I like it and change to the taller ones in camp if need be.

Sadly Paris had to return home after getting all of the way down to the Fish Lake Valley. He's the cool dude I met at the springs a few years ago. Ever since he had those strokes from a torn blood vessel in his neck he has kept track of his blood pressure and things were getting out of hand...better safe than sorry.
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Old 11-10-2011, 11:57 PM   #277
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Typing out loud...

The carbs are dialed in pretty good. Cold starting is perfect, hot starting not so much. That tells me it's still a little fat on the pilot, right? Not much I can do about it right now and shouldn't be a big issue on this trip, but I'll need to get things dialed in better before next summer.

gaspipe is digging out his jetting spec sheet that he used on The Prince of Darkness for me, his pup just died and I hope he's drinking a few brews.
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larryboy screwed with this post 11-11-2011 at 07:14 AM
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Old 11-11-2011, 12:56 AM   #278
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Originally Posted by larryboy View Post

Ok and like Poolside says next I probably should bump the idle up to help the cat out...I ran out of time to build my custom muffler and when that goes on I can drop my idle back down.
The catalyst enclosure is a 2.5 chamber muffler all to itself. You can cut it apart and remove the catalyst element, then weld it back together. I emailed you some pictures.

The higher speed idle (1100rpm ±) is only relevant for the ECU control. The carburetors will never produce the correct Oxygen supply in the exhaust sufficient to catalyze the extra hydrocarbons. On your bike the catalyst element will be an inert lump. The low idle speed can be whatever rpm you wish, with respect for the low oil pressure limit.


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Yes Jim, I'd love to have the lo beam stay on adding the hi when I flip to hi. The HID powers up so slow that I wouldn't run across a dark garage while waiting for the change, let alone blast down a dark country road at 80 mph.

My switch gear allows for lights off/running lights(didn't use)/lo beam/hi beam. I'm using lights off when I start the bike, this battery has plenty of CCA's, but only 7 ah in reserve, don't want to kill it in the middle of hell and gone.

I was planning for lights off for starting and didn't even think of the delay relay for that purpose.
Regarding 'lights off' when starting, I relize you are switching the lights off manually using the perch switch. But if you prefer, the HIDs can be forced off automatically until the alternator powers up. That feature would be controlled by the alternator blue wire. Let me know.


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Yes, I really want to add the neutral light and the oil pressure would be good too. I've got room for more lights on the Highway Dirtbikes top clamp, room for switches and lights there.

Wanna hear something funny? Went down to Radio Shack and got a couple of lights for the dash..was gonna do the neutral lite like you told me and the charge light, wired them up and nothing...dig in the trash and find the box...AC , that wasted 2 hours.
Classic!

Hey, I'm pretty sure the alternator indicator light needs to be a small incandescent bulb, not an LED. The neutral indicator can be any type of light you wish (except 120VAC).


Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post

Where are the switch diagrams? Do traces B and C, for the high beam and low beam, provide 12V when 'true'? (When 'switched on' I mean.)



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Old 11-11-2011, 07:05 AM   #279
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Nice work!

Have you weighed it?
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Old 11-11-2011, 07:32 AM   #280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside View Post
The catalyst enclosure is a 2.5 chamber muffler all to itself. You can cut it apart and remove the catalyst element, then weld it back together. I emailed you some pictures.

The higher speed idle (1100rpm ±) is only relevant for the ECU control. The carburetors will never produce the correct Oxygen supply in the exhaust sufficient to catalyze the extra hydrocarbons. On your bike the catalyst element will be an inert lump. The low idle speed can be whatever rpm you wish, with respect for the low oil pressure limit.



Regarding 'lights off' when starting, I relize you are switching the lights off manually using the perch switch. But if you prefer, the HIDs can be forced off automatically until the alternator powers up. That feature would be controlled by the alternator blue wire. Let me know.



Classic!

Hey, I'm pretty sure the alternator indicator light needs to be a small incandescent bulb, not an LED. The neutral indicator can be any type of light you wish (except 120VAC).



Where are the switch diagrams? Do traces B and C, for the high beam and low beam, provide 12V when 'true'? (When 'switched on' I mean.)
Don't have a ton of time, thanks for the cat pictures...I'd do that, but I'm not set up to weld stainless at home.

Ok, cool...I played with the idle a little bit more last night and it doesn't like anything other than where it's at. 1400 rpm, now that I have the tach set right.

I'm going to stay with being able to turn off the lights completely, that's what I wanted in the first place.

I had a random light that I put in the side of the old fuse box near the master switch. Wired it into the alt like you told me and it goes out when the alt spins up, gonna have to assume it's working right.

That's the only diagram I got with the switch gear. B/C provide +12 when switched and I'm running those to each headlight relay to click em on.



Quote:
Originally Posted by knybanjo View Post
Nice work!

Have you weighed it?

Thanks, I got into a time crunch and didn't weigh everything as it went back together. Quick estimate puts me right at 500, I took off 160 pounds of BMW stuff and put back about 80 pounds of my stuff.
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Old 11-11-2011, 10:57 AM   #281
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Have fun on your shake down run Rob...

I'm in another foot cast today...and surgery planned for the broken ankle a month from now.

Right now...I'm liven through you my friend...go get'em.

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Old 11-11-2011, 09:01 PM   #282
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Ok, cool...I played with the idle a little bit more last night and it doesn't like anything other than where it's at. 1400 rpm, now that I have the tach set right.
1400 is pretty high. I'm wondering if that's accurate, it seems like you could tell the idle was abnormally high just by ear. If it's possible the idle is too high, connect the meter to the tach output, simultaneously with the Acewell, and cross check the Acewell. Your meter has an RPM and Hz (frequency) settings.

The stock ECU can idle the motor at 800. Did you say you were using the #6 advance curve? If so, try a curve with less advance at idle to see if the carbs can be adjusted for a lower idle. If the idle is better with a different idle advance, we'll have to get into the curves and static timing little bit more. Note: For this 'less advance at idle' test, I'm just talking about performance at idle, not off-idle, or revving the motor.


Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post

I had a random light that I put in the side of the old fuse box near the master switch. Wired it into the alt like you told me and it goes out when the alt spins up, gonna have to assume it's working right.
That's what you want to see. I was thinking that the alternator indicator light needs to be a bulb with a filament, vs. an LED. Though if you have an LED set up with a resistor so that it will work with 12 volts (maybe you have a test light that uses an LED instead of a light bulb?), you can try that LED in place of the bulb you initially used and see if the alternator functions normally.


Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post

I'm going to stay with being able to turn off the lights completely, that's what I wanted in the first place.

That's the only diagram I got with the switch gear. B/C provide +12 when switched and I'm running those to each headlight relay to click em on.
Gotcha. Currently you have 2 relays, one each connected to the high and low headlight switch outputs (I'm just going to say in the 'typical' fashion, because I know you are familiar with relays), then each relay output powers one HID ballast. Is that right?

If so, there's an easy way to keep the low beam on when the high beam is switched on.



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Old 11-11-2011, 11:00 PM   #283
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Rob called Mrs. larryboy around 7:00 from Big Pine. The bike's running fine - but his hands are frozen. Seems like he rode through some snow.

I guess he left after 11:00 a.m.

Maybe he left at 11:11 on 11/11/11 just to make sure he'd get through the portal when it opens up in 11 minutes from now.

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Old 11-12-2011, 12:02 AM   #284
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New to this thread, but love what you have done. Just read most of it...

Crazy question: I would sweat to god you were using a flux core MIG welder. I never saw a glimpse of the unit in any of the pics WHat were you using to weld the frame?
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Old 11-12-2011, 04:14 PM   #285
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Maybe he left at 11:11 on 11/11/11 just to make sure he'd get through the portal when it opens up in 11 minutes from now.

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