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Old 11-07-2011, 04:14 PM   #76
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagedrifter View Post
But, for my usual day rides and short 1,000 mile trips I prefer the Shinko Mullet.
That's an Emo. The Mullet is longer at the back.
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Old 11-07-2011, 07:12 PM   #77
sagedrifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
That's an Emo. The Mullet is longer at the back.
Your right, so its actually a contrary mullet application of Shinko undesign...

I'm just glad Shinko makes tires that work and don't require a bank loan. This economy sucks for me, 3 years ago I just ran TKC-80's. Man, I miss having enough money to burn on bikes and tires and gas without thinking about it much. The good old days...
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:23 AM   #78
Nessman
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I spooned on a new pair of Shinkos 705 tires this weekend to replace my DOT knobbies, it's a commuter bike...no dirt.

Rode to work in the rain this morning and they were solid, I was a bit anxious about new tires on wet roads but no worries.

Also replaced the PO-installed 14 tooth front sprocket with a stock 15 tooth, much better road bike now.



Edit to clarify 705 tires.
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:26 AM   #79
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Shinko 705s?

I've been commuting on a set of those all this year (on a Honda NX125). They're great all-around commuter tires. You should have no worries in the wet. However, the DR has a lot more HP than my NX. Use common sense.
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:44 PM   #80
basketcase
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Last year (2010) I read every tire post here and all over this site trying decide "which knob." By way of understatement the answer is very subjective...

I ended up installing D606's and ran them 5,123 miles before changing them out this evening for a mixed bag of different knobs.

I was kicking around a "go back with knobs or install Shinko 705's" debate and settled on knobs after realizing that about 90% of my dirt riding is sandy and muddy with lots of broken flat rock. So this morning I swung by a local dealership and bartered a deal on a Chen-Shin rear tire and a Pirelli for the front. I don't expect to get the same mileage out of the Chen-Shin or the Pirelli.

The 606's were installed in July 2010 at Silver City, NM before I got on the CDT heading north. When they were removed this evening they had 5,123 miles on them. + or - 2,500 of that was on dirt and the rest on tar surfaces.
The front was toast but the rear still had a little left.

Rear - straight on


Rear - side view


Front - straight on


Front - side view


Speedometer


I was able to finagle a price with the dealer that was competitive with ordering a set on line so I took the chance on different tires. I'll take photos again when those come off -- probably about two years from now!
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Old 01-16-2012, 09:41 PM   #81
ER70S-2
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Wheel Bearing Seals

Somewhere back in the DR650 thread, another inmate said it's easy to double seal our stock single seal wheel bearings. And since the stock bearings have a very good reputation, unlike some of the aftermarket replacements, I filed the info in my head until I decided to change mine at 20,700 ish. I re-used the old seals, added a little extra grease to the new bearings and ended up with high quality dual seal OEM bearings. For the record: I know there are high quality, low cost, dual seal, aftermarket replacements...........somewhere. I just ordered from RonAyers and never left the house.

Here are the pics.



There's a ledge under the seal, work the pick past it. BergDonk comes in from the outside edge with a small screwdriver, it also has a lip.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
The advantage of working the outside of the seal is that it's a larger radius and less likely to kink. Likewise, using a small flat blade increases the surface area of the plucking tool and creates less pressure and therefore less likely to damage the seal.
Whatever works


Gently twist and pull and out pops the seal.



Here you can see both bearing lips that you're working the pick past. Pretty clean inside, remember, this bearing has over 20,000 miles.



Crap!!



But the previous inmate had said, 'they might kink and are easy to straighten'. He's right. I used a flat punch small enough to sit flat on the metal surface. I did NOT use a hammer, I just leaned on it and worked it around until I ended up with this. Even with macro photography, I can't find the ding.



I filled the new bearings with grease before installing them, and used a little too much. Aerocycle's photo in post #85 below shows how it should be done; run your finger around the bearing, like caulking the bathtub.

This is what I found during the next tire change. No damage, just a little expansion past the seal.



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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

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Old 01-23-2012, 06:51 PM   #82
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The DR comes without rim locks, not usually a problem. But some guys air down. This might let the tire slip on the rim, tearing the valve stem out of the tube. Here's how to know if this is happening.

As delivered:



Back the valve stem nut off the rim and up against the valve cap. Finger tight works. Notice that there is room around the hole in the rim to allow the stem to tip, you might have to file the hole oblong. This one needs a little more clearance. If your valve stem tips to the side, you need a rim lock or more tire pressure. And straighten the stem as soon as possible, or next time you'll get a flat.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 01-25-2012, 10:17 PM   #83
ER70S-2
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Removing Wheel Bearings

These pics are for a DR650, but is how many wheel bearings are removed (without a spacer), like your trailer wheels.

This is what the bearings and spacer look like in both the front and rear wheel, although a real spacer is longer. The spacer is the only thing that keeps your hub from imploding when you tighten the axle, don't forget it.

Edit: these two bearings are the same size. --------->.



This is what you'll see when looking into the bearing in the wheel. There's no way to get a punch on the bearing from the other side, yet.



Just take your punch, lever it against the side of the bearing and push the spacer to the side. It might take a good push, but it will slide over (no hammer). Notice the nice round corners on the inner bearing race, you have to push the spacer over far enough to give the punch an edge to hit. Probably not quite this far:



Next, grind a nice flat end on your punch, with good, sharp, square corners. Don't skip this step.

Now just flip the wheel over, give the punch one or two light taps. This will free the spacer and you can now work the punch around the bearing race......tap.....tap....tap....tap....tap.... If the first few taps don't loosen the spacer, turn the wheel over and push the spacer to the other side, flip wheel, tap....tap....
And remember where the seals came out.



Edit to add: Never hit the inner bearing race when installing bearings, tap around the outer race only. A large socket can usually be found the correct diameter to fit the bearing. When tapping on the socket, you'll have to work the hammer around the edge or you'll tip the bearing in the bore, watch what you're doing. You shouldn't hit a socket directly with a hammer, use a wood block as a cushion.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

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Old 01-26-2012, 07:23 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post



Next, grind a nice flat end on your punch, with good, sharp, square corners. Don't skip this step.

Now just flip the wheel over, give the punch one or two light taps. This will free the spacer and you can now work the punch around the bearing race......tap.....tap....tap....tap....tap.... If the first few taps don't loosen the spacer, turn the wheel over and push the spacer to the other side, flip wheel, tap....tap....
And remember where the seals came out.

Excellent, this is exactly what I did yesterday. I just didn't know how to word it on here to help others out! great job ER70S!

I might add to it that upon re-installing new bearings, install the right side first, flip the wheel over, insert spacer, and install the left bearing. BUT MAKE NOTE!!! the left bearing will not and is not supposed to go fully into its place and seat. There is supposed to be clearance. I didn't notice this the first time and had to tap my bearing out slightly so the the spacer is snug inside, but not loose. I hope its adequate.

This it out of the manual, sorry about the blur.
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:27 PM   #85
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Wink Just two cents

Okay, I'm outside in my shop packing all the bearings. I find the needle bearings to be specifically difficult. I popped the seals off my new koyo's and the grease was decent, but I would feel better packing them myself knowing there is plenty, but not too little.

So here is a picture of my bearing I just packed with waterproof belray. I think this photo will help all of us with limited bearing packing to know if we are doing good enough. I think this picture has the right amount of grease but I need to know from you seasoned bearing packers... I packed it full using my palm, then wiped out excess with my finger down to the level of the bearing cage on both sides.

Is this ENOUGH? of too LITTLE?? General concensus is not any more than pictured here...

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Old 01-26-2012, 07:31 PM   #86
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Buy bearings from a local cearing supplier, save's money and usually gets you knowledgable people with quality bearings...

Here is a picture of my sprocket carrier bearing right after I pulled the seal off... Wow, did someone pack dirt in there????

This bearing is in failure mode...

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Old 01-26-2012, 10:54 PM   #87
eakins
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i posted this in the big thread but put it here too.
here are the bearing tools for those who wish to use them.
i've punched out bearings on the past just fine but have found using the proper tools makes the job faster & easier.

http://pitposse.com/whbereset.html
http://pitposse.com/beraandsedr.html
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...BEARING+PULLER

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArFC3...ayer_embedded#!

remove outer black seals w/ flathead and such on both sides
heat area on the hub around the bearing to cause it to expand some
remove bearings w/ tool & remove spacer
clean up hubs
new bearings should be checked for proper grease
chill new bearings in freezer to slightly shrink
lightly grease edge of new bearing
heat up hub to slightly expand
tap in new bearing on 1 side. a heated hub and chilled bearing goes in easy.
insert spacer and install the other side bearing
install seals. i like to grease between the sealing lips.
torque wheel to proper spec to properly seat bearings
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Old 03-20-2012, 01:14 PM   #88
ER70S-2
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I just replaced the 3 bearings in my rear wheel/cush hub. If you can run a hammer and punch, you're in. The two wheel bearings tap out from the opposite side like any other wheel bearing, shown above.

There is one seal in the cush hub and one in the wheel (right side).

But I wanted to remove my cush hub bearing for a possible re-use (emergency spare maybe). So I made a puller, nothing but threaded rod, a socket, some washers, 3 nuts and a used piece of exhaust tubing large enough for the bearing to slide into; 2-1/4" I.D. This pulled the cush hub bearing easily.





Note: put the flat side of the socket against the bearing so it isn't pushing on the seal, not as shown here.



Our front and rear wheel assemblies are a set of solid steel spacers, from the axle head, through the swingarm and wheel hub to the axle nut. If any piece is missing, the axle won't tighten properly. Most common mistake on the DR, is forgetting the spacer (#8). Also watch for #2 (when replacing wheel bearings) and #19, as it's hiding in the cush hub.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

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Old 03-22-2012, 06:22 AM   #89
justscoutin
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anyone got pics of shinko 700's on a dr? and what size are you running for the rear, 4.60 or 5.10? thanks.
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:05 PM   #90
sagedrifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justscoutin View Post
anyone got pics of shinko 700's on a dr? and what size are you running for the rear, 4.60 or 5.10? thanks.
I prefer the 5.10 size in a 700.

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