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Old 11-20-2011, 09:26 AM   #91
Lornce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
A buddy of mine gets consistently better gas mileage on a GSPD with a 9.5:1 1000cc engine. The taller final drive and higher compression make quite a difference.
Gears and compression are the road to efficiency, for sure.

When stock with low factory compression my 1000cc GSPD got anywhere from 13-16km/liter. With 1050cc pistons, modded '77 S heads running higher compression (12:1 estimated and making much more power and torque) it netted 20km/liter pretty consistently.

Don't know how it'd run on Nepal's gas, though.



I've been riding airheads since '83 and know them fairly well. If I left today for a round the world adventure... I'd take my KLR.

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Old 11-20-2011, 01:26 PM   #92
igormortis
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Originally Posted by Lornce View Post
I've been riding airheads since '83 and know them fairly well. If I left today for a round the world adventure... I'd take my KLR.

Hmm, dont have a KLR. Ill have to take the airhead. Damn.
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Old 11-20-2011, 04:27 PM   #93
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Hmm, dont WANT a KLR. Ill have to take the airhead. Damn.
Fixed
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Old 11-21-2011, 01:21 AM   #94
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Hmm ... I'm running an '83 R80 ST ... a taller top gear sounds very interesting !
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Old 11-21-2011, 04:27 AM   #95
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Originally Posted by Rucksta View Post
Ontic

I went for 1000cc kit '77 S heads with a few mods, 9.5:1 pistons and Del Orto carbs in one hit.
Dual plugs came a few years along with valve seats and a mod to the squish band to adress pinging with the intoduction of unleaded fuel.

I have about 350,000 km on the bores and pistons with one ring replacement a couple sets of valve guides plus a set of guides when I did the valve seats.

Bottom end is still in good shape as are the cam and rockers.

Gear box has been trouble free.
I seem to have stopped wearing out universal joints.
I seem to be hard on the final drive but it does cop a bigger pounding since I went to USD forks 5 or 6 years ago.

I put 100,000km on the stock motor.
I did gearbox & final drive bearings as well as valve guides in the 100,000 as well as a couple of drive shafts.

With the stock motor I was always ringing it neck and got poor fuel ecomomy.
With the 1000kit I can get the response and performance I want with a turn of the wrist.

Motor will run on 91, E10 or Opal.
It runs fastest on 95.
I use 98 makes me feel better about running hot slugging it through the trees.

I average around 15- 17km /lt and have achieved 22-24km/lt running good dirt road in top gear at 80kph.

Stock motor would deliver in the 15-17 km/lt range never seeing better but sometimes returning 12.5 with the lowest ever 10.3 on a fang thru the hills.


I'm due for a new set of barrels (have been for the last 35,000ks)
I am still interested in a 1070 kit mainly for the mid range.

When I think back to what a blast this bike was when the 1000 motor was fresh and what it does now I'm thinking a fresh set of barrels, pistons & rings with a valve grind and new guides would give me back everything it had that impressed me as a 28 year old rev head.

If I went 1070 I'd need more brake and suspension upgrades as well as a higher 5th gear and posibly exhaust replacement with 38 or 40mm to get the best out of it.

The cost of the kit and associated upgrades is a bit scary .
For the same money I could have a very nice second hand enduro, a husky TE610 or a new SX85 for the budding MX rider in the family so I'll probably just go for another 1000 kit.


The Seibenrock power up kit with the standard heads and 32mm bings is reported to be a torque monster.
Awesome post Rucksta and worth quoting in full so I can read it a few more times on this page, thanks for all the details.
Costs for 1070 kit are indeed scary. I need to be in a whole nother pay bracket before I could contemplate that.

torque monster sounds pretty nice to me, and even though the kit is lighter etc, I am reassured that it would give me plenty of use for the cost.
Pinging on poor fuel and/or the need for twin plugging has me most concerned.
Time to do a bit more research into that.


Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWRSNUT View Post
Fixed
Yep, I'll skip the KLR too. To start being so practical and utilitarian right about now in my life would seem like a hell of a waste of time and effort these last dozen years or so

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibbo View Post
Hmm ... I'm running an '83 R80 ST ... a taller top gear sounds very interesting !
Indeed,
motobins do the gear for your bike for 99 (and for my bike for 128)
which is one of the other things I've been chewing over and would be the way I would want to go with a power-up kit (power up kit with taller 5th and the G/S final drive sounds like a good combo)... which then just adds to the cost, and also means I'd be opening the gearbox... which means that I should probably consider some other upgrades, the improved shift kit thing that started (according to Anton) mid 1981 (my bike was Feb 1981)- and yes this gearbox does hit false neutrals- and also the metal K-roller things...

Anyway I am going to have to chew on all this for a while and see if I can justify the costs. I am by no means writing it off.

By the way Sibbo, how's Tilly going? Did you get those pesky twin plugged heads to work properly or are your just about ready to offload them?
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Old 11-22-2011, 01:58 AM   #96
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She's doing just fine mate ! The hard starting thing has been solved ...as you know she's twin plugged and the coils ( old Jap ones ) were set up in parallel, which is the norm as I understand it .Anyway in desperation I took her into the local bike shop and their bloke changed it to series, something I hadn't thought of. She starts first touch now .Happy me .. it was bloody boring before , lots of very gentle handling to get her to go, once started she was fine but the starting was a nightmare ! I never knew if I was going for a ride until she lit up .

All done and sorted .

Gearboxes ? Mine is good , no false neutrals ,quick and positive .The PO was a mechanic and had her for quite a while and made a few major repairs . She's sweet ! I reckon gearboxes are a bit like Pandora's Box ... don't open unless really necessary .
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Old 12-02-2011, 08:21 PM   #97
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Originally Posted by Sibbo View Post
She's doing just fine mate !

I reckon gearboxes are a bit like Pandora's Box ... don't open unless really necessary .
Great to hear Tilly is running well.
The big boat is now all painted, tarted up and tidied. Engine starts and runs OK (thanks for adamantly pointing me to timing issues). Photos are all taken, gear and extras are all organized and photographed. Now I need to create a new online album for the photos and write up my ebay description... wish me luck. I'll send you the links when I'm done.

About pandoras box- against some good advice and some of my own beter judgment I will soon be prying at the hinges and seeing if I can pop at least a couple of these boxes right open
I got my motobins order done. Between all the G/S stuff and a couple of things the 90/6 needs, the final bill was.... significant.
I'll leave the details as a pleasant surprise for when it all arrives. At the moment I am trying to get over the separation anxiety I am suffering from dropping that pile of cash. I won't be buying myself a christmas present this year, that's for sure.
At least most of the serious spending is now done. Before the motobins order the last significant things weren't too bad because I spread them out more, forks, wheel, ohlins rear, tank, custom triple, etc, etc... they didn't really hurt like this one did.

Once all the new parts arrive from the UK, and my front end stuff arrives from the US, then I will have plenty to do and keep me occupied in the shed over summer.
I'll be slowly putting aside a bit of money for Paul Rooney and my frame and swing arm- which will get dealt with once I have completely sorted out the front end and the subframe and pannier frame.
I've got a friend who also wants a set of alloy panniers (who is currently welding aluminium for his living) so we will probably set about making a couple of pannier pairs together.

Electrical (charging system, possibly ignition) upgrades is something I don't want to think of yet and will leave until much later.

Anyway, not much to update other than all this. Work is busy, and I need to work as much as I can to refill the bank account.

Note to self: do not even think about doing this kind of thing to another bike. Once is enough
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Old 12-02-2011, 09:21 PM   #98
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Note to self: do not even think about doing this kind of thing to another bike. Once is enough
+1. Also, after doing all this nonsense--never ever sell it.

Loving this thread
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Old 12-03-2011, 01:58 AM   #99
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G'day mate .... I'm glad the boat is right ,one less thing to worry about ! I'm starting to get worried about this g/s of yours , all the gold plating will look funny with mud on it !

Just in case you haven't worked out a system to hang your panniers I'll show mine off ! (again !)It's kind of my idea with huge bits stolen from all over the place .As you know they are a couple of Thermite cases , ex US army . $80 each from a disposal store ...yeah ,I know I've told you but they are good, light and waterproof .



Not to everyone taste of course butthe mounting system works well .They are dead easy and quick to mount and dismount .The black material is 12mm HDPE from my local plastics shop .$30 for the lot plus a pile of useful scrap from their bin ...I couldn't resist ! Bolts are 6mm stainless 304 and nylocs .8mm ply on the inside of the cases .



The top black tab (the narrow one ) and the long one at the bottom drop in and over the frame .The white things are steel ,about 6x40 mm if I remember ) Fairly solid , heavier than needed really but it was the size flat I had there .They pivot around to release or lock the onto the bar then pull inside the case with a HDPE handscrew on a 12mm thread.I t works very well and taps easily .There is a dome nut sitting inside to lock things if the cases are going to stay on for a long ride .It takes about 60 seconds to drop them off , the same to mount them .



The rack is 12mm mild cos I like welding steel and don't have nice new 21st century welding tech like you . Mild probably adds a kg or so but is very easy to work with and repair if I break it . It was a bit of a bugger to fit but it's solid .

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Old 12-03-2011, 06:05 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgoodsoil View Post
+1. Also, after doing all this nonsense--never ever sell it.

Loving this thread
Thanks, I hope the thread will have a bit more substance soon,
And yeah, this one for sure I never plan on selling. I've ummed an ahhed about selling off the 90/6 if I end up going for an extended ride OS (along with selling off most of my other worldly possessions), but every time I think I have come to the mental space where I might be able to sell it... I fall in love with it again. But, the reality is, depending on what the plan is, when the time comes the 90/6 may have to go.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibbo View Post
G'day mate .... I'm glad the boat is right ,one less thing to worry about ! I'm starting to get worried about this g/s of yours , all the gold plating will look funny with mud on it !

Just in case you haven't worked out a system to hang your panniers I'll show mine off !
Thanks mate, yeah it is going to be a load off my mind when that thing finally sells... something around a 2-3 ton load I can't wait.

Don't get too worried about the G/S. Gold plating or not, it'll get covered in mud and used just like it should be, you've seen what I put my 90/6 through? Tough love is my approach


Thanks for posting up your pannier and mounting system.
I do really like those boxes. How many liters are they again?
Your mounting system is great. I'm not sure which way I'll go with that, but quick dismountable is what I am after too- however I'd like to be able to dismount them (and lock them on) without emptying or opening the panniers.

What I am hoping for the panniers I will make up is for them to be a really good custom fit this bike and its intended use. I'll be using the panniers in combination with a expandable soft luggage on the rear luggage rack ('horseshoe style' cheap giant loop clone), and a new-to-me (second hand, cheap ebay) Held modular tank bag (fits my big tank really well). The panniers are not going to be huge, I don't want the bike to feel like a wide-load tractor. I haven't exactly figured out the volume and the dimensions, but am thinking possibly around 70 liters combined (smaller pannier on the left, larger on right), with cutouts/angles on the lower front edge (to reduce foot/ankle damage) and cutouts/angles on the lower outside edge, and quite possibly a couple of features that make them multi use, ie, lids as tables, etc. Not quite sure on the dimensions, but in general I'll probably be aiming for a little narrower and taller than is usually done. First things first is to fit the G/SPD single seat I ordered, then make the rear luggage rack, then play around with some pannier mock-ups to see how it all fits together.
I like the pannier, rear bag and single seat combo as I use it on the 90/6. It is nice to have around 20-30 liters of quick easy expandability to grab supplies and quickly stuff them in.
Heavy, hard and camping stuff in the panniers, and softer and lighter stuff in the bag is my approach.

After buying this welder, I feel like I have to try make these things now
My pannier frames are nothing exotic, just modified stock ones, mild steel too, but pipe instead of solid. Should be reasonably repairable by just about anyone anywhere by with welding skills, and I suspect they will need to be repairable as they are pretty lightweight (and bendable). We'll think of them as crumple zones for now
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Old 12-03-2011, 03:17 PM   #101
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Hi mate ... the Thermite cases are 40 l each . They are really too big,especially too wide , but everything else out there was too small .The lids in the Thermite cases are good solid stainless trays that would be easy to rig as tool trays or tables .

I have a decent set of small BMW plastic cases but they are good for lunch and light wet weathers only .

Locking ? I couldn't come up with a quick and easy method and quite frankly those two hand wheels are very easy to reach from above .The cases have lock points outside .I forgot to mention that the main advantage of HDPE is that it doesn't rust ,it doesn't rattle ,it's light , strong and cheap .Apart from that it's no good at all ! If I could weld and bend it I'd make the whole job from the stuff .It's great .

The soft bag versus hard case debate is interesting .I can see advantages in both but I've slide the bike down the road on a big plastic box , my leg between the box and the bike . Other people call them leg breakers .

I'll keep watching your progress mate ...we await glossy pictures !

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Old 12-03-2011, 07:16 PM   #102
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Originally Posted by Sibbo View Post
Hi mate ... the Thermite cases
Mermite, not thermite...

...though thermite is pretty cool too.

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Old 12-03-2011, 07:39 PM   #103
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Good one ... my mistake !
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Old 12-28-2011, 05:52 AM   #104
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It's been a while...

lets see,
the motobins order has all arrived.
Lots of goodies there that I won't go into yet but the most important thing for now was the siebenrock single seat- I've been waiting on this so that I finish all the subframe and luggage frame fabrication...

This will be a long and rambling couple of posts- Fair warning


Honestly, I would have preferred the black, but motobins don't carrry the black, so hopefully this colour warms on me.
very nice seat, kinda firm but the foam feels like good quality and combined with a sheepskin it is going to be very comfortable... we all know the seats but heres the seat before I.... molested it.


with my big tank the seat would not fit all that well- so as wrong as it felt I opened it up and removed some foam from the front- luckily not too much had to be removed so that the cover would require altering.

Next was to figure out how I was going to mount it and secure it without the stock G/SPD luggage rack- ie, by making my own luggage rack (of sorts) that also had some other features. Not having seen how the stock G/SPD luggage rack solves the mounting/locking and weight supporting issue I just set out to 'engineer' my own solution.

A complication of my life at the moment (that I won't go into) is that this bike may be required to be used for two-up touring if I go OS late next year- maybe, maybe not- but at the least if it wasn't going to be used two-up all the time I would want the capability to double people on occasion- but I am not a fan of the stock double seat and am simply not comfortable without my single seat (I've got a single seat on the 90/6 too).
So, along with my single seat, I wanted to have the capacity to use and easily remove a rear single pillion seat.

Sounds easy huh?

Now, lets fast forward through 2 full days of shed tinkering, with lots of metal cutting, sparks flying and argon flowing...
First go around I made some beautiful forward brackets on the seat frame but drilled them a tad wrong so that the seat was a litte off centre and I just couldn't accept it- so late at night I tried re-drilling the holes and of course I moved the holes the wrong way... the seat was now more off centre and now my brackets were screwed. Next day I had to cut them off and start again...
Anyway, that is all an excuse for why it looks a bit messy up the front there.
We'll just call those extra holes drainage holes OK



I need to explain a few things I guess. I tend to make things more complicated than they need to be... we'll call that 'feature rich'.
There are two parts to the frame- the main seat frame and the rear pillion single seat frame- this rear seat frame bolts into the main seat frame by some captured and welded in nuts and that front 'tongue' on the seat base keeps the rear seat under the front seat...

Oh yeah, I cut up the stock double seat to make the rear pillion single seat.
Now, it became apparant that this main seat frame was contacting a crossmember on the motorbike frame and was now load bearing. This was Ok for me, but I didn't want it riding metal on metal- so that is what those black things on the front are for. I'd already gotten furiously annoyed at the rubber bumper things on the bottom of the seat that keep falling out of the seat pan- so I wanted to make something a bit different.
I captured some more nuts in the front tube and bushed some allen head bolts with some renewable rubber bushes... fuel line of course.
What this means is that with weight on it the seat now rests evenly on these fuel line rubber bushes and the stock seat pan rubber pads (and now these stock rubber pads don't keep falling out.)


Now I hope that all looked nice and easy.... cause it wasn't!
So much fiddling and thinking and testing. But, it works. The seat locking mechanism snaps in and yet is bearing no load whatsoever. To remove the rear pillion seat requires unscrewing two allen head bolts. Simple.
The indicator crossmember is now also partially load bearing (only significantly with a pillion- so later on I've reinforced that crossmember.


The rear seat aint all that comfortable right now, but I will build up the foam a fair bit higher and a little longer at the back and it should be OK. (no big buts please)
I suppose I will match the profile to the front seat- probably just cover it in black.


next post coming up,
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Old 12-28-2011, 06:33 AM   #105
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Now, with my seat figured out this morning I was able to return to the subframe reinforcement.
I'm an amateur welder playing on a chinsese multifunction ac/dc TIG. I've been hesitant to do the subframe myself. After mocking up my reinforcements in some random mild steel seamed tube (as posted earlier in the thread) I finished making the final ones out some seamless hydraulic tube. While the bends to get around the shock, the pannier frames and the exhaust were all tricky, the really hard bit was griding the tube to mate flush with the subframe (so that my average welding skills had a chance of successfully joining them)
My welds aren't pretty, but I'm pretty sure they are strong- today I decided to just go for it. Making the seat frame had gotten my confidence up to the point where I didn't have to think about much anymore.


first brace done- this one came out pretty good.



second brace followed- not quite as pretty, but still good. No photo it seems.

Next was figuring out pannier frame mounts- because I don't have the stock rear rack (which I believe the rear pannier frame mounts bolt to?) I had to figure something else out. The stock left pannier frame had a lot of wasted space between it and my exhaust, so I moved it in a bit.
Both stock rear mounts on the pannier frames were cut off and new ones made- these mount to the subframe on some gussets I welded onto the bottom of the indicator crossmember (gusseted becuase it is now loadbearing).

I think it worked out OK.

here's a heap of photos in no particular order,

more of the seat stuff,






because there will be a lot of weight on the back of this pillion seat I've made a support plate for it,


all bolted back together,










rear pannier frame mounts and indicator crossmember gusset- flash photography at night really makes these welds look a lot dirtier than they are




now without the pillion seat,
I may make a simple and light aluminium tray type thing that will quickly bolt on and off (in place of the pillion seat), or I might just leave it as is


shoved the fender back in for a photo, and visible also is the /6 knee pads I've had on there for a while so see if I like them






Now a question I'd welcome some opinion on- I was originally planning to weld tabs onto the subframe reinforcement and the loops of the pannier frames where they cross each other and bolt them together... sort of tie-in the subframe to the pannier frames a bit more.
you can see where they cross in both these photos- in the first photo you can see where I have ground back the powdercoat ready to weld a tab on,






However, as things are right now it feels pretty damn solid and good.
Aesthetically I'd rather not weld on tabs to my subframe reinforcements, as it kind of ruins their nice clean lines if I ever strip the bike down to 'dirt bike' mode without pannier frames.. also I wonder if it isn't a bad idea to keep the pannier frames more separate as kind of crumple zones- damaging only them in tipovers...
anyway, I'd welcome opinions on this. I'll also be making a crossover between the rear of the pannier frames so they will be pretty solid without these extra tabs.

lastly, just more of the same but this time with the stock battery covers on- YES they still fit (this was pretty tricky with the subframe reinforcments and I wasn't sure if it was going to work out)







and thats about it for tonight.
Please forgive the long rambling posts, the horribly unflattering flash photography, the messy shed and the piles of photos that are all similar to eachother.
Tomorrow I move onto the rear luggage rack which will also have a good cross brace between the rear of the pannier frames.

Cheers.
Time for bed so I can do it all over again in the morning.






P.S. Sibbo, if you read this- did you ever get a single seat or a seat pan to try to make a single seat?
You can have the front of my stock double seat if you want it. Due to cutting it a little wrong at first it is a little shorter than the G/SPD single seat but it feels like it would be long enough to work.
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