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Old 11-23-2011, 11:04 AM   #61
C5! OP
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diagnostic of the shop: one phase looked more damaged than the other 2. He blames the regulator. but is giving me a 50% discount on this rebuilt, and will be ready tomorrow.
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Old 11-23-2011, 03:25 PM   #62
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Just out of curiosity, when I got home from my work commute today, I took out my infra red thermometer and I got 47C on the clutch cover and 85C on the stator side.. The catalytic converter read around 75C.
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Old 11-23-2011, 04:35 PM   #63
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Wow. When i built my welder about 13 years ago, the general rule was any temp of a tranformer winding over 80C is unacceptable... No wonder these are frying...
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Old 11-24-2011, 10:31 AM   #64
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for those in the know, that is the cable he had been using. Would that be right?
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Old 11-24-2011, 09:23 PM   #65
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I have a 2011 that just turned over 10,800... is this situation also known on 2011's or do you think BMW done something to resolve the issue?
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Old 11-24-2011, 09:26 PM   #66
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How many of these have gone? Any common thread? A few? A lot? 5?
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Old 11-25-2011, 12:55 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwgsrider View Post
I have a 2011 that just turned over 10,800... is this situation also known on 2011's or do you think BMW done something to resolve the issue?
I would bet money that BMW hasn't changed anything, even on the 2012 models. I did hear that they are planning to at least make the stator available by itself, and not only packaged with the flywheel which triples the price and is unnecessary in most cases.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
How many of these have gone? Any common thread? A few? A lot? 5?
Pretty much all of them on bikes with 50k+, often on bikes with around 30k, occasionally with significantly less.

It's definitely a wear part in this engine, and one of the first things to go.
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Old 11-25-2011, 07:10 AM   #68
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So when I do the 30k maintenance... Add: Stator rewind.

Linda sounds like my 4Runner. At 90k replace timing belt & water pump. It's not needed to change the water pump but while you are there you do it because they all go before 120k.
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Old 11-25-2011, 04:17 PM   #69
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In my experience, about half of rotax twin stators are going by 50K miles. Germany is well aware of the problem, but there is no simple fix. The factory unit is a good one, my personal opinion, this is a lubrication problem. The stator is not getting the oil bath it needs to run within temperature tolerances.

Theres nothing I am aware of that an operator can do will reduce the chances of this happening.

A heavier rewind or exotic insulation would help, but finding someone qualified to do that will be a trick and a half.

Sorry I don't have better answers.
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Old 11-25-2011, 05:37 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelWisman View Post
In my experience, about half of rotax twin stators are going by 50K miles. Germany is well aware of the problem, .
this is so disappointing... too bad they couldn't at least figure a way to upgrade the bike's big brain and onboard computer to at let me know when charging has packed it in and I'm running on my battery alone...
obviously some kind of battery monitor is going to be needed if you do much riding.

and people wonder why I keep a KLR as a backup bike.
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Old 11-25-2011, 06:25 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelWisman View Post
In my experience, about half of rotax twin stators are going by 50K miles.
....

Sorry I don't have better answers.
Wow. This statement, to me, is HUGE. Not knocking you Joel in ANY way, (I greatly respect your opinions and insight and appreciate your candor) but there are a couple of other problems with our bikes which you have downplayed. Your general opinion, as I have interpreted it, is that the perceived problems with the rear hubs and upper shock mounting bolts are due to the internet's ability to magnify the scope of problems, and not real problems.


For you to agree there is a problem means, to me at least, that there is definitely a problem.


Now we need to find a solution. I'm assuming BMW won't acknowlege it or solve it, so it's likely going to be up to us.
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Old 11-25-2011, 06:28 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastredbike View Post
this is so disappointing... too bad they couldn't at least figure a way to upgrade the bike's big brain and onboard computer to at let me know when charging has packed it in and I'm running on my battery alone...
obviously some kind of battery monitor is going to be needed if you do much riding.

and people wonder why I keep a KLR as a backup bike.
Voltage monitoring would be a nice option on the display. My 3 grand Italian motor scooter has a voltage display lol.

The system does know the voltage, even stores under and over voltage codes. Wonder why BMW hasn't made display of voltage accessible.

I suspect a load of aftermarket stators will hit the market soon, as well as some day supposedly BMW is going to sell this part apart from the rotor. I would happily cary a spare, once they are down around $100
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Old 11-25-2011, 08:27 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by JoelWisman View Post
Voltage monitoring would be a nice option on the display. My 3 grand Italian motor scooter has a voltage display lol.

The system does know the voltage, even stores under and over voltage codes. Wonder why BMW hasn't made display of voltage accessible.

I suspect a load of aftermarket stators will hit the market soon, as well as some day supposedly BMW is going to sell this part apart from the rotor. I would happily cary a spare, once they are down around $100
Thanks again Joel for your input and help!
System voltage is one of the display options for the onboard computer for the BMW G650 XCountry, I've always wondered why it was not one of the selections for our bikes.....
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Old 11-26-2011, 06:05 AM   #74
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Originally Posted by JoelWisman View Post
Theres nothing I am aware of that an operator can do will reduce the chances of this happening.
A series regulator should fix it, or at least improve it. See the thermal images in post 22.
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Old 11-26-2011, 06:34 PM   #75
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the voltage monitor is a nice (and necessary) feature but it is not the solution.
I have installed a LED voltage monitor and it was useful because it allowed me to reach a safe place before dying, but it would have been better to being able to complete my 1,600 km trip between my home and my office instead of beeing stuck for 4 days right in the middle, with all the associated costs that it implies, hotels, going back and forth to fix the stator etc... carrying a stator is also not, IMHO, a solution. We need a reliable alternator which doesn't fail so early.

I will definitely buy a new stator from this link earlier in the thread and I am thinking about this series regulator as well. I would really appreciate feedback from somebody who tried that, how it worked and if it didn't interfere with the other electrcial systems on the bike.
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