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Old 11-10-2011, 02:10 PM   #31
WU7X
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me too

+1

I ran Rotella 5W40 for two years in my Dakar without a burp.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KingsX View Post
I'm sold on rotella 5w40 Syn 6 Diesel synthetic oil
cheap at Wallywhirled


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Old 11-10-2011, 02:37 PM   #32
KingsX
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I've had the opposite experience

Switching to synthetic pretty much stopped leaks for me


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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwhacker View Post
+1 If your engine has any propensity for "seepage" anywhere, throw in some synthetic oil and watch the leaks grow ten fold.
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Old 11-10-2011, 02:52 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by 97oilhead View Post
Keep an eye out for their sales. I got 2 cases of Castrol 20-50 Motorcycle oil in the spring from Autozone for $1.99 a quart.
So, you got two cases (24 quarts) for $48? Holy crap. I just paid that much for one case of Castrol 20w50 at O'Reilly. (Autozone didn't even have any cases of Castrol.)
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Old 11-10-2011, 05:29 PM   #34
BrianK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwhacker View Post
+1 If your engine has any propensity for "seepage" anywhere, throw in some synthetic oil and watch the leaks grow ten fold.
Or you could fix the leaks. Just a thought.
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Old 11-10-2011, 08:30 PM   #35
Mane OP
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Thumb

Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
T
I'm of the opinion that what oil you use (as long as it's semi-decent) is not nearly as important as how often you change it. I've met too many world travelers with multiple hundreds of thousands of miles on the original untouched bottom end who have to use whatever oil is available where they are. They change it often, but you can't buy royal purple golden spectro super synthetic bla bla bla in rural Bolivia. They just use whatever they can find and their bikes just keep on going. That's a good enough argument for me. I just use castrol GTX 20W-50 and change it every 3000.
This is a VERY solid argument!
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Old 11-10-2011, 08:45 PM   #36
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Thumb Thank you guys!

Thank you for your advice everybody...

I went to the store today and took the time to read every spec on every bottle of oil (I wish I took half that time to pick my toothpaste...) and finally decided that the best of one available at this time was Castrol Actevo 4T 20w50. It is SG rated and also have a small drawing of motorcycle of the front label. (that alone should account for something, right? )



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Old 11-11-2011, 04:12 AM   #37
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just remember, an airhead is NOT a high tech, 18000 rpm, 200 hp race motor. heck, no use reving them past 6 grand, not alot of power up there anyways. good advice to change it often, that is good advice for any motor. clean oil equals lots of happy miles! I've been using valvoline, havoline, castrol gtx, castrol actevo, and lots of others I've long forgotten about, including some off brand stuff I've had to use on trips. all my motors are still happily spinning away, some with a few hundred thousand miles.
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Old 11-11-2011, 04:35 AM   #38
Bill Harris
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Quote:
an airhead is NOT a high tech, 18000 rpm, 200 hp race motor
In a way, that is the problem. An older engine with flat tappets, the lifters and camshaft design and metallurgy assumed a common zinc oil additive (ZDDP) at the time to combat lifter wear. Turns out that the zinc additive is not good for catalytic converters and the additive levels have been reduced, thereby promoting lifter wear on older engines.

Oil is like a holywater, everyone has the One and True oil that they use. FWIW.
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Old 11-11-2011, 05:23 AM   #39
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my favorite is the one on SALE!!
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Old 11-11-2011, 06:06 AM   #40
KingsX
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diesel oil

If you've ever had the front cover off an overhead cam diesel like CAT, and seen all those gears that go more than a million miles, you'd see the sense of using diesel rated oil

my 2c

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Old 11-11-2011, 06:06 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydrummerdude View Post
So, you got two cases (24 quarts) for $48? Holy crap. I just paid that much for one case of Castrol 20w50 at O'Reilly. (Autozone didn't even have any cases of Castrol.)
There were no cases at Autozone, I just bought all their stock at three stores over a couple of weeks as they restocked. At the time the regular price was $3.99 and they had $2 off a quart. They also had a Valvoline M\C 20-50 for the same price.

Keep an eye out for their sales, I am pretty sure that it was on at least a couple of times in the spring and summer. I figured I had enough with the 2 cases, but I will probably top up again if I see the sale in the spring.
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Old 11-11-2011, 07:14 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harris View Post
As long as we are obsessing...

NGK BP6ES.

GL4 or GL5 gear oil?
I need grips too!???
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Old 11-28-2011, 03:27 AM   #43
Kentucky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harris View Post
As long as we are obsessing...

NGK BP6ES.

GL4 or GL5 gear oil?
My manual calls for Bosch W7D. Why 6's?
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Old 11-28-2011, 03:00 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
I'm of the opinion that what oil you use (as long as it's semi-decent) is not nearly as important as how often you change it. I've met too many world travelers with multiple hundreds of thousands of miles on the original untouched bottom end who have to use whatever oil is available where they are. They change it often, but you can't buy royal purple golden spectro super synthetic bla bla bla in rural Bolivia. They just use whatever they can find and their bikes just keep on going. That's a good enough argument for me. I just use castrol GTX 20W-50 and change it every 3000.
+1 I'm one of those guys. I rode my R-100 GS around the world and I have put plenty of stuff simply labeled "OIL" in my engine. I have also run ATF in the forks, brakes and tranny-" better than water and better than nothing" is my motto. Hell, I have gas in my oil right now (gotta fix that ).

All that said, I run Rotella now.
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Old 11-28-2011, 03:29 PM   #45
disston
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I use the Spectro 4 mentioned already. I'm told it has the ZDDP my engine needs. I can usually find it. It's only disadvantage, in my opinion, is the cost. This stuff is too expensive. So I keep reading oil threads hoping I'll find a new oil but I come away not convinced.
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