TT350 Not XT350 - Page 3

NordieBoy · 10-31-2011, 06:22 PM

I've got indicator led's for my blinkers working.
Also replaced the 6v 2A battery with a 7.2v 2A NiCd. Smaller, lighter and the horn does good things with the extra voltage

LED's ballasted for 12v

Work fine on 6v - A bit too bright on 12v

Battery time...

Intiminators...

Showing the valve holes for chassis/wheel movement damping seperation.

All buttoned up.
Much nicer to install than on the DR650.
The fork oil drain holes are great

Now to play with shims. The damping as shipped was far too stiff. 1 0.012" shim less and it's a little too soft but better than stock.

I love this shit

Anklyne · 11-01-2011, 02:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

Also replaced the 6v 2A battery with a 7.2v 2A NiCd. Smaller, lighter and the horn does good things with the extra voltage

It sounds terrible with 12v going through it

Had some good fun the (long) weekend just gone

Spent a good hour or two cleaning her today so I can take care of an electrical gremlin (battery no chargy

).
I'm glad I got a 15t sprocket for road riding; after doing 500km on black top then changing over to the 14t for the dirt, I was doing 70kph at about the same RPM I was doing 100kph one the road

I hope the LED brake/tail light I ordered a couple weeks ago shows up soon, I killed the plastic/rubber mount for the stock one over the weekend :/

NordieBoy · 11-01-2011, 11:42 AM

I run 14/50 for racing/gnarly, 15/50 for general adventuring and 16/50 for roady use.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anklyne

I hope the LED brake/tail light I ordered a couple weeks ago shows up soon, I killed the plastic/rubber mount for the stock one over the weekend :/

Mine is starting to disintegrate too.

Anklyne · 11-01-2011, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

I run 14/50 for racing/gnarly, 15/50 for general adventuring and 16/50 for roady use.

I'll need to modify my casesaver if I want to put a 16t up front. Not enough room.

Have you taken note of the changes in RPM:speed with the different sprockets?

NordieBoy · 11-01-2011, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anklyne

Have you taken note of the changes in RPM:speed with the different sprockets?

Nope, but it'll pull 130kph+ in top with 15/50.

Anklyne · 11-01-2011, 09:06 PM

I got my poor thing to 120kph once with 14:50 gearing and 20-30kg of camping gear on the back.
It took a while to get there on a long flat road and I had to stay ducked down

NordieBoy · 11-07-2011, 11:24 PM

Intiminators for a Triumph Twin fit and with 1x0.015", 1x0.012" and 1x0.010" shims (comes with 1x0.015" and 2x0.012") works quite nicely.
Vastly reduced brake dive.

The 7.2v nicad battery also has enough voltage to power a 12v-5v usb GPS power adapter

NordieBoy · 11-17-2011, 12:23 AM

Tried an MT43 rear today.

With 14/50 sprockets, it's got about 3mm or clearance to the shock guard and swingarm...

Not to mention an insane amount of traction.
Not as low geared as I'd like but not an issue.

I'd tried a worn Dunlop 801 trials tyre before and was amazed by the traction but a new trials tyre is on another level.

But it's cheating. There's no effort or skill involved. Just point and shoot.

Aim it at something gnarly and it just says "Yeah, I can do that" and yawns when you get to the top. The Shinko 705's however say "Oh shit!, Not again!" and "Well fcuk me!" when you get to the top.

I prefer the 705's...

Anklyne · 11-27-2011, 04:31 AM

Finally got my new LED tail light and finished making a bracket for it today. It's from LED Auto Lamps, fully sealed electronics, ADR approved and cost me AU$30.

Initial tests seem to show that it should do the job nicely

When testing, I found it was flickering a lot when using the front brake, so I pulled out the front switch, gave it a good cleaning and it's working beautifully.
Now I just need to get some more bolts, washers and nylocs, and wire it up properly.

NordieBoy · 11-28-2011, 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anklyne

When testing, I found it was flickering a lot when using the front brake, so I pulled out the front switch, gave it a good cleaning and it's working beautifully.
Now I just need to get some more bolts, washers and nylocs, and wire it up properly.

How do you pull out the front brake switch?

Anklyne · 11-28-2011, 10:17 PM

If you look at the underneath of the brake lever, near the switch, there's a hole. The switch housing has a small plastic tab that flares out and locks into that hole, so you can just use a screw driver to push on the tab through the hole and pull the switch out.

Disassembling the switch itself is easy too. Just shift the small metal band down, fold the rubber sheath back on itself and using numerous jewellers/precision screwdrivers, flare out the clips on the 4 sides. Once the outer plastic cover is off, the shaft will come out and the two contacts on either side can just be pulled out to the side. Reverse for reassembly.

NordieBoy · 11-29-2011, 06:57 PM

Cool...

I'll be right back...

NordieBoy · 11-29-2011, 09:05 PM

Pulled the switch apart, cleaned the contacts, bent the arms a little more and reassembled.

Sweet.

NordieBoy · 11-30-2011, 11:24 AM

If you can't repair the original switch, a $10 hyosung one will fit with minimal mods.

Anklyne · 12-04-2011, 12:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

If you can't repair the original switch, a $10 hyosung one will fit with minimal mods.

Good to know. I think I need to give the rear switch a clean now :/

She's back on the road again though

Today's quick shake down ride consisted of wheelies, going up curbs then tearing across the gravel car parks at a near by shopping centre (it was empty thanks to the medieval trading hour regulations we have), cruising over speed bumps at speed and doing some jumps on the neat alley way this picture was taken at earlier this year:

My other bike wouldn't have appreciated any of those things at all.
At least it'll be glad I won't be abusing it any more

(the one on the right)

11-27-2011, 04:31 AM	#39
Anklyne Adventurer Joined: May 2010 Location: Perth, Western Australia Oddometer: 75	Finally got my new LED tail light and finished making a bracket for it today. It's from LED Auto Lamps, fully sealed electronics, ADR approved and cost me AU$30. Initial tests seem to show that it should do the job nicely When testing, I found it was flickering a lot when using the front brake, so I pulled out the front switch, gave it a good cleaning and it's working beautifully. Now I just need to get some more bolts, washers and nylocs, and wire it up properly. Anklyne screwed with this post 11-27-2011 at 04:43 AM

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10-31-2011, 06:22 PM	#31
NordieBoy Armature speller Joined: Dec 2006 Location: Kiwiland Oddometer: 6,782	I've got indicator led's for my blinkers working. Also replaced the 6v 2A battery with a 7.2v 2A NiCd. Smaller, lighter and the horn does good things with the extra voltage LED's ballasted for 12v Work fine on 6v - A bit too bright on 12v Battery time... Intiminators... Showing the valve holes for chassis/wheel movement damping seperation. All buttoned up. Much nicer to install than on the DR650. The fork oil drain holes are great Now to play with shims. The damping as shipped was far too stiff. 1 0.012" shim less and it's a little too soft but better than stock. I love this shit

11-01-2011, 09:06 PM	#36
Anklyne Adventurer Joined: May 2010 Location: Perth, Western Australia Oddometer: 75	I got my poor thing to 120kph once with 14:50 gearing and 20-30kg of camping gear on the back. It took a while to get there on a long flat road and I had to stay ducked down

11-07-2011, 11:24 PM	#37
NordieBoy Armature speller Joined: Dec 2006 Location: Kiwiland Oddometer: 6,782	Intiminators for a Triumph Twin fit and with 1x0.015", 1x0.012" and 1x0.010" shims (comes with 1x0.015" and 2x0.012") works quite nicely. Vastly reduced brake dive. The 7.2v nicad battery also has enough voltage to power a 12v-5v usb GPS power adapter

11-17-2011, 12:23 AM	#38
NordieBoy Armature speller Joined: Dec 2006 Location: Kiwiland Oddometer: 6,782	Tried an MT43 rear today. With 14/50 sprockets, it's got about 3mm or clearance to the shock guard and swingarm... Not to mention an insane amount of traction. Not as low geared as I'd like but not an issue. I'd tried a worn Dunlop 801 trials tyre before and was amazed by the traction but a new trials tyre is on another level. But it's cheating. There's no effort or skill involved. Just point and shoot. Aim it at something gnarly and it just says "Yeah, I can do that" and yawns when you get to the top. The Shinko 705's however say "Oh shit!, Not again!" and "Well fcuk me!" when you get to the top. I prefer the 705's...

11-28-2011, 10:17 PM	#41
Anklyne Adventurer Joined: May 2010 Location: Perth, Western Australia Oddometer: 75	If you look at the underneath of the brake lever, near the switch, there's a hole. The switch housing has a small plastic tab that flares out and locks into that hole, so you can just use a screw driver to push on the tab through the hole and pull the switch out. Disassembling the switch itself is easy too. Just shift the small metal band down, fold the rubber sheath back on itself and using numerous jewellers/precision screwdrivers, flare out the clips on the 4 sides. Once the outer plastic cover is off, the shaft will come out and the two contacts on either side can just be pulled out to the side. Reverse for reassembly.

11-29-2011, 06:57 PM	#42
NordieBoy Armature speller Joined: Dec 2006 Location: Kiwiland Oddometer: 6,782	Cool... I'll be right back...

11-29-2011, 09:05 PM	#43
NordieBoy Armature speller Joined: Dec 2006 Location: Kiwiland Oddometer: 6,782	Pulled the switch apart, cleaned the contacts, bent the arms a little more and reassembled. Sweet.

11-30-2011, 11:24 AM	#44
NordieBoy Armature speller Joined: Dec 2006 Location: Kiwiland Oddometer: 6,782	If you can't repair the original switch, a $10 hyosung one will fit with minimal mods.