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Old 11-01-2011, 07:01 PM   #616
mark1305
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Location: Merritt Island, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand View Post
Thats actually on purpose, if you know painters
I was holding that comment back out of defference to the one that lives 4 doors up from me.
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Old 11-01-2011, 07:03 PM   #617
Les_Garten
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Location: PSL, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand View Post
Thats actually on purpose, if you know painters
My Dad always said the same thing.

His conclusion was that sniffing solvents all day was kinda like drinking all day.

Then when they get off work, they kinda keep that going for the rest of the evening.
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Old 11-08-2011, 05:42 PM   #618
photorider
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Don't know if this has been mentioned before but I found out today that the small tire irons that come in the Airhead toolkit are perfect for removing the spacer the rear engine mounting bolt goes through. As many Airhead owners know, removing that spacer is the quick and easy way to get to that damn neutral switch that is so prone to leaking.
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Old 11-17-2011, 07:32 AM   #619
drbeemer
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Hid headlight for r80gs

I just pruchased an '86 R80GS and the headlight is anemic, scary even.

Rick Jones, from Motorrad Elektrik, who sells the excellent alternators, points in a can and superb starters for airheads, and more, told me that he ordered an H4 HID bulb kit for his R80GS and it DOES fit inside the headlight assembly. I had previously tried to fit an H4 HID inside the headlight bucket of my R90S and there is no room for it.

Rick said such a bulb will fit the R80GS. He ordered one from his local dealer who got it from Tucker Rocky, but they are available all over the internet.

Key is finding one that has a small ballast and is good quality. I am elated to find out this information.

Rick's stuff is here:
http://www.motoelekt.com/

Mac Kirkpatrick
Glenmoore, PA
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Old 11-19-2011, 04:14 PM   #620
nachtflug
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Location: New York
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmoreman View Post
Here's my idea (if i find the thread on page 20 in a few days I'll know that others disagree with its simple pragmatic design )

This thread is for all those little tips and tricks we have for our beloved Airheads.
we're having trouble getting the one on the left to idle when it's hot. any input appreciated.

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Old 11-21-2011, 03:41 PM   #621
goatroper
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pretty much the same settings as a Kawasaki Drifter, from what I have heard. No experience with either.
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Old 11-21-2011, 05:23 PM   #622
disston
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[QUOTE=nachtflug;17340559]we're having trouble getting the one on the left to idle when it's hot. any input appreciated.
(/QUOTE)

You have to adjust the carbs after a 20 minute ride. Use only Heyco screwdriver from on board tool kit.
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Old 11-25-2011, 02:45 PM   #623
JohnLocke
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Gas cap - quick/dirty replacement

For those needing a quick/dirty/inelegant replacement for your R75/7 R80 R80RT R100RS R100S R100CS R100RS R100R R100GS gas cap; NAPA Part # 703-1686 will fit for 8 bucks. They also have a locking version.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Re...&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0
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Old 11-25-2011, 05:06 PM   #624
baldwithglasses
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73s to you, W8EJO.

WallyWorld also has a version that works just fine; just make sure you use the vented version.
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Old 11-25-2011, 05:23 PM   #625
mark1305
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I just noticed the call sign after BWG's 73s...

I Googled up my late stepfather's call sign, W4YRE, and up popped his name on HamCall.net

Cool!

Oh yeah, I've been using the Stant locking cap on my ST for over a year and keeping the good BMW cap for special occasions. IIRC, on the locking version I had to drill through the check valve innards with like a 1/16" bit from the bottom side upward to provide good venting.
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Old 11-25-2011, 08:22 PM   #626
baldwithglasses
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I've got the Stant non-locking venting kind, and it works dandy. Because of the broad-band funkulation field I have around the bike, no one really messes with it.
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Old 11-29-2011, 03:00 AM   #627
Mallard
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Fixing a Stuck Clutch

Your bike currently has a functioning clutch lever (the thing on the handlebars) and functioning clutch release mechanism (the arm on the back of the gearbox + a bunch of internals). However, pulling on the clutch lever has no effect - you're constantly in gear (the rear wheel will still not turn). Put away the holy water and stop praying, it's not demonic possession - it may be that you just have a stuck clutch.

I've discovered plenty in the last while about the clutch and its correct adjustment. Didn't see it in 'tips and tricks' so here's how I solved my 'stuck clutch'. This was necessary after just three weeks of not riding the R90/6.

Step 1)
Ensure you have the correct adjustment. This is a worthwhile read and probably worth looking at prior to Step 2.
Clutch adjustment (Pre-1981) & How to ride with no clutch cable
http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/control/index.htm

Step 2)
Fixing a stuck clutch
http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/clutch/index.htm

1. Get into neutral (you may need to manually rotate the rear wheel back and forward, while clicking away at the foot gear selector).
2. Start engine. Let her warm up.
3. Don all safety gear (in case this doesn't go to plan).
3. Grab the clutch. Don't let it out again.
4. With engine running, and bike in neutral, and while holding the clutch lever, get the bike moving (you pushing, friend pushing, rolling downhill - like you were bump starting).
5. The engine is running, so when you're moving at a reasonable speed (same speed as you'd ride in 1st) 'stomp down' it into 1st. This might not be healthy, but your bike will do as it is told.
6. Now you're in 1st gear and you're still holding the clutch, but the bike is in gear and you're moving. 1st might not be enough to solve a stuck clutch, but 2nd should be.
7. A little bit more throttle and 'stomp up' into 2nd.
8. With any luck you're now riding a bike that has broken it's clutch free, and because you're still holding the clutch, you're starting to slow down.
9. Time to let the clutch out and ride around for awhile. The solution to stuck clutches is regular use. Be good and ride regularly.

N.B. Between 4 and 7 you may look like you've had your license for less than a week. Probably a good idea to put on a fake mustache and dark sunglasses before you get started.
N.B. All work done occurred while under the influence of home brew ginger beer. I'm not say that's why it was so easy, but it might have helped.

Mallard screwed with this post 11-29-2011 at 03:10 AM
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Old 11-30-2011, 06:32 PM   #628
DoktorT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mallard View Post
N.B. All work done occurred while under the influence of home brew ginger beer. I'm not say that's why it was so easy, but it might have helped.
Frankly, soaking the rider in Liebframilch or Jaegermeister works beste vor BMW fixin'.
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Old 12-01-2011, 03:12 AM   #629
Mallard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoktorT View Post
Frankly, soaking the rider in Liebframilch or Jaegermeister works beste vor BMW fixin'.
Thanks DoktorT,

The Haynes Manual makes no mention of that. I tell you, it's hardly worth owning. Nothing in there at all about recommended drinks or music. Just loads of useless rubbish about torque settings and oil volumes.
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Old 12-10-2011, 12:38 AM   #630
batoutoflahonda
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decarboning pistons

etc. So waiting on parts, I took the pistons off and soaked them in 50% simple green and pine sol. Over night worked well, but I let them soak for a week, and literally wiped all the carbon off with a paper towel. Even that really hard stuff on the sides above the rings.

Sorry no pictures, but I didn't think it was really going to work.
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