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Old 12-05-2011, 04:26 PM   #16
supershaft
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I didn't read all the posts but those independent floats are junk in Bing's AND Mikuni's.

Change your filter. Prime the the oil pump by turning your rear wheel with the plugs out. Doing it all over again in twenty miles is probably overkill but I would think about it.

It should be all right. They usually are after such floods.
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Old 12-05-2011, 04:35 PM   #17
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drain oil/fuel yes, but don't start it without re-lubricating ALL bearing surfaces.
yank plugs and squirt several oz of ATF ... that should take care of upper cylinder area.

definitely change out oil filter, mostly to drain fuel from that area. fill with rotella or other dino, for you will be dumping soon. and refilling with fresh oil shortly.

main danger is running your motor without any lube on bearing surfaces. gasoline will wash away oil film. crank over motor with plugs out (ground or disable) easiest way to crank motor over is with key off. if you know correct terminal on starter relay. easy as pie to crank over without ignition on.

object is crank over motor with plugs out, until oil pressure raises enough to flood bearings with oil.
then re-install plugs and fire up normally. odds are motor will come out with zero damage if bearings are full of new oil

don't run motor very long with oil mixed with gasoline. I'd drain and refill with fresh oil again. consider the first oil fill a flush.

this has happened to me on several engines, where crank case ended up full of gas. above procedures were followed with zero damage.

_cy_ screwed with this post 12-05-2011 at 04:41 PM
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Old 12-05-2011, 05:23 PM   #18
norton73
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I think I'd consider pulling the valve covers and dribbling oil down the pushrod tubes to lube the cam followers. And/Or pull the pan and lube the cam and followers from below.
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Old 12-05-2011, 05:30 PM   #19
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I have a Beast, a 1000cc BMW sitting on the lift. Oil, over weeks, pooling.

More oil will be poured in until I can tend to it. I check the stick and add as necessary.

Sooner or later, I will. I will ride the other two in the interim. Each more horribly abused than can be imagined, but still running strong.
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Old 12-05-2011, 06:11 PM   #20
Wirespokes
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Nothing to worry about! As a matter of fact, the engine (especially the pan) should be spotless now.

After changine the oil, definitely pull the plugs and by hand, crank the engine over for quite a while. Then, with the key on crank it some more, making sure the oil light is out.

Button her up and it should be fine. The miniscule amount of fuel left in galleries will thin the oil slightly till it evaporates. Not sure I'd even worry about changing the oil a second time.

Musta been way cool shooting flames out the side of your bike! Woulda been better out the back, though.
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Old 12-05-2011, 06:26 PM   #21
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by the way it takes about 125 1/2 turns of the rear wheel ,in 5the gear to get oil out to the top of the rockers. ( I just did this the other day, and counted!?!)
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Old 12-05-2011, 06:28 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
I didn't read all the posts but those independent floats are junk in Bing's AND Mikuni's.

Change your filter. Prime the the oil pump by turning your rear wheel with the plugs out. Doing it all over again in twenty miles is probably overkill but I would think about it.

It should be all right. They usually are after such floods.
This is all good to hear. Not tragic then. It would have been headed to your place Billy if it was going to be a giant deal.

Well it's been to long without the airhead so I wanted to put some miles on it. This will teach me not to ignore it so long. And loose that dumb float kit.
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Old 12-05-2011, 06:30 PM   #23
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by the way it takes about 125 1/2 turns of the rear wheel ,in 5the gear to get oil out to the top of the rockers. ( I just did this the other day, and counted!?!)
Maybe I should find a hill.
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Old 12-05-2011, 06:42 PM   #24
Wirespokes
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The main thing is the main bearings. Without compression (plugs out) there's no stress on them. The only area experiencing any pressure beyond that is the cam, lifters and rockers.

After cranking by hand a while, most of the galleys will be clear to the mains, then crank with the starter to remove the rest. If it takes 125 revolutions, that would go really fast with the starter motor.
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Old 12-05-2011, 07:05 PM   #25
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When I prime my oil pump & system, I just pull the plugs, put her in 5th gear and turn the back wheel. It works quite nicely. Easier on the starter as well.
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Old 12-05-2011, 09:09 PM   #26
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Most likely it's ok.

I'd pull the oil pan just to make sure you got any sludge that got washed out from somewhere else and ended up down there.

Button everything back up, squirt some oil down each cylinder, and with the plugs still out rotate the engine using the rear wheel with the bike in 5th gear, do that for a number of rotations just to make sure there's some oil getting past the oil pump and such,

The bike most likely suffered more damage from sitting for a year then it did from the oil.
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Old 12-05-2011, 09:18 PM   #27
Kaigai
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hi pepe here i got a R65 1983 a R90/6 1974.
0n my boats i've had diesels and gas motors.
im a fan of marvel mystery oil. or diesle to run on a contaminated engine. wheni screwed the pouch on from sinkings or fuel pumps gone crazy.
so i heard pulling plugs,
and fuel washed oil galleries.
my take is three oil changes.
pull plugs pour marvel oil in top end walk the poodle or in your case your bike.
to circulate the system at low compression and speed to minimize the risk of hidden fuel egnition source.
remember a soak past the rings and journels a few days between the flushing.
if your done with a fush out. put it back together fire the beast up checking oil for any emusion or foaming or fuel floaing on top.
good luck.
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Old 12-07-2011, 02:46 AM   #28
enfielddnepr
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In this case, would adding some 2 stroke oil to the gas(which is not gas, but benzine?) benefit?
All over the world you read bad things about alcohol in fuel,..
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Old 12-07-2011, 03:06 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petefromberkeley View Post
... I opened the drain plug expecting oil to come out and a gallon of gas/oil gushed out. I cursed a bunch and filled it with motor oil and that's it. Soooooooooooooooooooo

What do I do? How bad do you guys think this is? I haven't started it yet.
Had the same thing happen to my R65 and was riding it around before I realised.
It took no harm from the experience.

Drain it, replace the oil filter, fill with appropriate oil, and if you feel nervous, pull the plugs to spin it on the starter without any load to get oil pressure.

Yes, oil which is 60% petrol is very runny, but it still protects from corrosion and lubricates, though I wouldn't deliberately run an engine on it - unless of course it were a two stroke, and they cope fine lubricated with 50:1 fuel to oil.
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Old 12-07-2011, 03:44 AM   #30
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You've drained the fuel contaminated oil and fitted a new filter and filled with fresh oil. Any fuel remaining within the galleries etc. will be miniscule. As said pull the plugs, squirt a little oil into the combustion chambers, 10ml or so would be plenty.

I would then check that it's in neutral and hook up a car battery, positive directly to the starter motor feed terminal and earth to the bike engine. Make the final connection at the battery as far as possible from the bike and just spin it over for a minute with the plugs out. Repeat after a few minites to allow the starter motor to cool although even that is probably not necessary as the load on the starter will be very low compared with cranking against the compression once the plugs go back in.

It won't need any more than that. Replacing the oil again would just be overkill. The first time the engine runs and gets up to operating temperature the fuel will all evaporate anyway. Fuel washes the bores and contaminates the oil every time the engine is started on choke so it's not going to be an issue.
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