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[cruiseninak]

Hi guys

Picked up an 05 klr650 with 37K on it the other day. It needs rings. I was going to bore it to 685 or 688 while I have it apart. Any one have one they have done? Did you have the machine work done local or send it out? Thoughts about doing it in general. I am in Eagle River.

Thanks

Pat

[AKDuc]

Hello and welcome ADVn00b cruiseninak.

ADV'er Beezer, aka Tom, here in town has done a couple of 'em.

Good luck and have fun, Mark H.

[cruiseninak]

Thanks Mark H.

I will shot him a pm.

Pat

[Wolfgang55]

Might consider getting you piston & ring kit first.
Mic it before boring.
Your machinest will know what to do.

[cruiseninak]

Got to find the machinist first. Parts are easy talent isn't.

[cruiseninak]

Originally Posted by Wolfgang55

Mic it before boring.

I am not familiar with this terminology. Please explain.

Thanks

[bug67]

I may be wrong (not a machinist) but I think it's measuring to make sure you have enough metal there to bore.

[Beezer]

The overbore can only be done on '96 and newer cylinders. If your '05 has it's original you're fine. I've done 4 of these... Schnitz 685 and Wymanns 688. Schnitz send you the piston, rings, and gaskets & you're on your own for machine work (they do give recommendations tho). They will send a Comtec base gasket unless you request OEM. Do NOT use the Comtec metal base gasket, they have a high failure rate & leak... like mine does (weeps just enough to piss you off & not enough to make me want to tear the jug off & fix it). I read about it literally the day after I assembled the engine... too late... mine will be fine... nope.

The Wyman kit comes with a cylinder that is bored & rings are fitted, the head gasket is relieved & all top end gaskets are included. You can send him your cyl if you can wait the turn around. He will send you the Kawi base gasket with his kit.

Using a local machine shop is rolling the dice... there isn't one I trust, but then I haven't used them all. Boring is the only work I farm out because I don't have the tools. Everything else I do myself. The local "good" shop boogered my first 685 bore, then "fixed" it. It went a couple thousand miles & then started blowing oil. Once you 685, thats the limit. The fix is a different cyl or re-sleeve. I went 705 (requires a sleeve) and had the work done out of state.... good so far (over 3K miles). Mostly, the 705 is not worth doing as a power mod... it's only 20cc.

If you want to maximize power, go bigger valves. BUT, as long as it's apart though, you should clean up the head a bit anyway.

here's the stock exhaust:


here's with a bit of die grinder work:


here's the cleaned up intake:


try to taper the approach to the guide... the ex pic as it too but harder to see

use intake guides in the ex side or taper the ex guides to smooth gas flow

[High Country Herb]

I am not familiar with this terminology. Please explain.

I don't exactly what is involved here, but I presume this is to make sure you bore the cyclinder to match the piston and rings. "Mic" refers to a tool (set) called a micrometer, which can mearure inside or outside diameters down to the nearest 1/1000 of an inch.

[willys]

Glad to see you got the bike.....If it were me and there isn't a great source for machine work, I'd be sending my jug south to Wyman and getting someone who has done more than you can shake a stick at. He will do it right first time no messing. The only thing is cost of shipping. If you have some extra coin, ship the head to him also and get him to put bigger valves in it while it's apart. Yes the stock base gasket is best and shouldn't weep, ask me how I know as well. I've done more than a dozen of these 685 kits now too, none with any issues. I would expect it would be cheaper to send it out to another state than to Canada, Toronto to be exact. Find out and see, if there is a huge difference, I can get the work done for you too.

Again congrats on the bike, a good year too, I have a 2005 in the shop as we speak getting the same thing done.

Enjoy....and I'll hopefully see you at the D2D event in June, search it out and mark the date.

Hope this helps....

[Beezer]

yes "mic" is micrometer & also understood to mean measuring for fit. there is plenty of metal to bore out to the 658 size if you have the later cylinder... early sleeves are too thin.

I wouldn't be surprised to see broken piston lands as a cause for the oil consumption... more common than you might think

[cruiseninak]

Originally Posted by Beezer

The overbore can only be done on '96 and newer cylinders. If your '05 has it's original you're fine. I've done 4 of these... Schnitz 685 and Wymanns 688. Schnitz send you the piston, rings, and gaskets & you're on your own for machine work (they do give recommendations tho). They will send a Comtec base gasket unless you request OEM. Do NOT use the Comtec metal base gasket, they have a high failure rate & leak... like mine does (weeps just enough to piss you off & not enough to make me want to tear the jug off & fix it). I read about it literally the day after I assembled the engine... too late... mine will be fine... nope.

The Wyman kit comes with a cylinder that is bored & rings are fitted, the head gasket is relieved & all top end gaskets are included. You can send him your cyl if you can wait the turn around. He will send you the Kawi base gasket with his kit.

Using a local machine shop is rolling the dice... there isn't one I trust, but then I haven't used them all. Boring is the only work I farm out because I don't have the tools. Everything else I do myself. The local "good" shop boogered my first 685 bore, then "fixed" it. It went a couple thousand miles & then started blowing oil. Once you 685, thats the limit. The fix is a different cyl or re-sleeve. I went 705 (requires a sleeve) and had the work done out of state.... good so far (over 3K miles). Mostly, the 705 is not worth doing as a power mod... it's only 20cc.

If you want to maximize power, go bigger valves. BUT, as long as it's apart though, you should clean up the head a bit anyway.

here's the stock exhaust:


here's with a bit of die grinder work:


here's the cleaned up intake:


try to taper the approach to the guide... the ex pic as it too but harder to see

use intake guides in the ex side or taper the ex guides to smooth gas flow

Appreciate the response. Sounds like sending the machine work out of state would be the way to go. Having done both kits do you have a preference? I know this is an often explored subject on klr forums.

Good job cleaning up the intake and exhaust. I can't believe how much was there to remove.

Pat

[cruiseninak]

Originally Posted by willys

Glad to see you got the bike.....If it were me and there isn't a great source for machine work, I'd be sending my jug south to Wyman and getting someone who has done more than you can shake a stick at. He will do it right first time no messing. The only thing is cost of shipping. If you have some extra coin, ship the head to him also and get him to put bigger valves in it while it's apart. Yes the stock base gasket is best and shouldn't weep, ask me how I know as well. I've done more than a dozen of these 685 kits now too, none with any issues. I would expect it would be cheaper to send it out to another state than to Canada, Toronto to be exact. Find out and see, if there is a huge difference, I can get the work done for you too.

Again congrats on the bike, a good year too, I have a 2005 in the shop as we speak getting the same thing done.

Enjoy....and I'll hopefully see you at the D2D event in June, search it out and mark the date.

Hope this helps....

Thanks I am really stoked about the bike. So you prefer the 685 to the 688? Why?

[cruiseninak]

Pics of the bike.

[cruiseninak]

Pic #2