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Old 12-10-2011, 07:06 PM   #1
wudkayaker OP
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R100 RT fairing reinstallation

Hi there. Here's hoping you'll lend a tip or two (or three) reinstalling my R100RT fairing.

Today my wrenching buddy and I were trying to install the main fairing bracket on the bike. It would appear that the headlight mounts/fork ears(?) need to be removed first...although Clymers has little to say on the subject. It looks like I've got to take off the handlebars, etc but the Steering Stem Nut just won't budge.

...so, true that the headlight mount/fork parts need to be removed...I assume yes.
...to remove them the handlebars and steering stem nut must be removed.
...if so, I can't budge that steering stem nut.

Ideas? Tips?

Thanks!
John
Chicago
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:28 AM   #2
Hawk Medicine
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Yes to all of the above.

You pretty much have to strip the top of the bike to install the Bracket and headlight.

If you have the correct sized socket and a breaker bar, that top nut should come right off.
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Old 12-11-2011, 07:47 AM   #3
wudkayaker OP
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Thanks for confirming this. Really appreciated!

John
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Old 12-11-2011, 08:09 AM   #4
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Why would you need to take off the handle bars?If the RT fairing mount is similar to the RS mount, the mount goes on using two bolts which screw into the steering stem. There's no need to take the handle bars off. The headlamp is connected to the fairing mount. It's static, it doesn't move like unfaired bikes.

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Old 12-11-2011, 08:54 AM   #5
wudkayaker OP
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Well, I think it has to come off so one can remove the headlight mounts/ fork ears (sorry, not sure what they're really called). Without taking those off the fairing brackets movement is impeded when the front end is turned.
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Old 12-11-2011, 10:56 AM   #6
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You might be able to get by just sliding the fork legs down and pulling the headlight ears out.


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Old 12-11-2011, 01:00 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodgrain View Post
Why would you need to take off the handle bars?If the RT fairing mount is similar to the RS mount, the mount goes on using two bolts which screw into the steering stem. There's no need to take the handle bars off. The headlamp is connected to the fairing mount. It's static, it doesn't move like unfaired bikes.

Woodgain
It's just a matter of approach.

I suppose that you could do it from the bottom but I (personally!) think that it's easier to work from the top. I've also found that if I leave the fork legs clamped in the lower triples, I won't need to set-up the front end again when I reinstall the top clamp.

But as always, there are several ways to skin a cat.
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Old 12-11-2011, 02:16 PM   #8
woodgrain
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I'm confused. The "ears" are on an RT fairing mount.There aren't any "ears" at the top of the fork like a plain BMW. Are you putting an RT fairing on a different model of BMW?

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Old 12-11-2011, 03:00 PM   #9
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Here's what I mean by the "fork ears" (please correct my terminology if you know the names for these).

edited


Here's a photo of the RT fairing mount screwed in, but you can see I also have the "fork ears" still installed. This seems to be a problem with the front end's range of motion. I assume I have to remove them by first taking off the handle bars, etc, etc.

edited 2

Best,
John
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Old 12-11-2011, 03:22 PM   #10
caponerd
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You can't do it with the upper fork covers and headlamp mounts in place, and yes the upper triple clamp has to come off to get those off the tops of the forks. (which, it should go without saying, requires that the handlebars come off too)

RT fairings are a major pain in the ass to remove/install.
The problem is the airduct/glove compartment boxes mounted on either side. There's no way you can get at all the screws in the front of the fairing with those in place, yet removing/replacing them is also a bitch because some of the screws that hold them in are very hard to reach.

I just tossed mine. I hardly used the gloveboxes anyway. Made up some black ABS plastic covers for the air intake grills.
I swap my fairing out between an RS fairing for summer riding and an RT fairing for winter riding (best of both worlds!), and it's so much easier a job when you don't have to mess with those airducts.

One thing you need to be aware of if you like things to be well-aligned and symmetrical; The fairing bracket mounting holes in the steering head are not necessarily drilled dead-center.
The holes in the fork mount are slotted to compensate.
I used to be very frustrated with a mis-alignment of my RT fairing. It was clearly tipped towards the left, showing air between the fork gaiter on the left, while rubbing on the fork gaiter on the right enough to collapse it slightly, while the bike was running straight down the road.
I could also feel the left rear edge of the fairing rubbing on my knee, while there was plenty of room on the right (not caused by the asymmetry of the footrests).
When I got my RS fairing, I thought the problem would go away, but lo and behold, the RS fairing was crooked too! The next winter, when I installed the RT fairing again, I noticed that the slotted holes allowed me to turn the mounting bracket to the left. I placed it at the farthest position the holes would allow, and sure enough, the fairing was now properly aligned.

Another tip; make sure all the electrical connections under the dash panel have spade connectors. The clock has a screw in connector, and it's advisable to add a spade connector inline.
It's a lot easier to install the dash panel and instruments while the fairing is off the bike. All you have to do then, is plug the connectors together.

The front turn signals, mirrors (not the mounts), and headlamp cover are all interchangeable between RT and RS. The only fairing panels that are different are the right and left upper sections, but it's best to have two middle upper panels because you don't want to be repeatedly removing and screwing back in, those self-tapping screws that hold the upper sections together.

I've got the process down to a long afternoon's work to swap between the two fairings.

Here it is in RS mode.


And in RT mode

caponerd screwed with this post 12-11-2011 at 03:32 PM
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Old 12-11-2011, 06:08 PM   #11
wudkayaker OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caponerd View Post

RT fairings are a major pain in the ass to remove/install.
The problem is the airduct/glove compartment boxes mounted on either side. There's no way you can get at all the screws in the front of the fairing with those in place, yet removing/replacing them is also a bitch because some of the screws that hold them in are very hard to reach.

I just tossed mine. I hardly used the gloveboxes anyway. Made up some black ABS plastic covers for the air intake grills.
I swap my fairing out between an RS fairing for summer riding and an RT fairing for winter riding (best of both worlds!), and it's so much easier a job when you don't have to mess with those airducts.
Thanks for the explanations. I appreciate it. Do you happen to have a photo or two of your fairing installation without the airduct/glove compartment boxes installed. I'd love to see how that looks.
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Old 12-11-2011, 06:22 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wudkayaker View Post
Thanks for the explanations. I appreciate it. Do you happen to have a photo or two of your fairing installation without the airduct/glove compartment boxes installed. I'd love to see how that looks.
I don't have any currently, but I can take some.

PM me if I don't get any posted in this thread within the next couple of days. (I'm both very busy lately, and generally pretty forgetful)
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Old 12-11-2011, 07:08 PM   #13
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Ah ha! I knew something was fishy...

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Old 12-17-2011, 04:39 PM   #14
wudkayaker OP
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Phew. Having the right tools around always helps.

So, if you remember I was trying to remove the steering stem nut and the two fork top cap bolts so I could get the headlight mount/fork ears off the forks. We succesfully removed the steering stem nut with a 36mm open ended wrench.

However, the two fork top cap bolts just weren't budging despite the seemingly massive amount of torque we applied. After what turned out to be magic call to Jeff @ Northwoods Airheads for a little advice and a pep talk we were able to remove them with a 36mm socket, a long breaker bar, and a relatively large mallet. The piece of lumber between the forks helped a lot too.

It's wasn't graceful, but it worked.

Thanks for you input, guys. I'm sure I'll have more questions about this damn fairing.

John
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