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Old 01-19-2012, 05:46 PM   #46
darklight79
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zip tied to the forks multicolored how could u go wrong???
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Old 01-19-2012, 07:26 PM   #47
Bill Harris
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The new rear brake light look similar to the old ones-- same diameter, fewer but much brighters LEDs:



It's hard fro me to say what it looks like-- I've had added rear brake lights for many years and can't imagine anything else.

I doubt that I will try the LED headlamps-- I've got a good setup of an H4 main headlight with H2 high-and low-beam auxillary lamps. Halogen is reliable and well-understood, and I have a high output alternator so wattage is not an issue. I'll see how the technology matures.

You'll get used to your new and shiny instrument lamps soon enough. BT,DT.
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Old 01-19-2012, 07:46 PM   #48
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Nice work Bill!

Closer to Guzzi than HD, my complements!

So how do you have these mounted? Are they drilled through the rear fender, or have you found a nice way to attach to the license plate mounts?

BTW, nice Windjammer - I miss the pop-out vents in my Vetter from my /7!
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Old 01-19-2012, 08:49 PM   #49
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The lights were mounted on the license plate frame's side side (red) reflector brackets. That worked until last year when one bracket fatigued and broke. I fabricated a heavier replacement bracket out of 3/4"x 1/8" steel strip and attached it to the license frame.

I used to remove the fairing sometimes and delight at how light and nimble the bike felt, but of late I enjoy the bubble of calm air that the fairing provides.
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Old 01-20-2012, 08:23 AM   #50
Uncle Pollo
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I am going to replace all the turn signals with round leds.

Are leds less prone to burn out due vibration?
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Old 01-20-2012, 08:53 AM   #51
Bill Harris
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Absolutely. 100,000 hours life as opposed to 10,000 life.
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Old 01-20-2012, 09:49 AM   #52
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From the "Advantages" section of "Considerations for Use" heading in the Wikipedia page for LEDs:

"Shock resistance: LEDs, being solid state components, are difficult to damage with external shock, unlike fluorescent and incandescent bulbs, which are fragile."

For LEDs, the "filament" is actually an anode and a cathode joined by a wire, and all of this is usually encapsulated in an epoxy lens. Contrast this with an incandescent filament which is an unsupported, stressed, heated element. Easy to see how the LED itself is more robust.

The bulbs you choose, however, leave room for variance in shock resistance based on a number of things like how the LEDs are mounted to the bulb, circuit board integrity, etc. So the design of a particular LED bulb makes a difference. A $5 1156 LED bulb probably wont last longer than a $1 1156 incandescent, but not because the LED itself failed...

I don't have historical proof of longevity for my LED installs YET, but I'm hoping the above theory holds true.

I wouldn't be saving much money if I have to replace a $25 LED bulb more often than a cheap-o incandescent. My hope is that I'll never have to again replace the idiot and gauge bulbs, and that my turn signal bulbs last between 5-10 years.
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Old 01-20-2012, 12:00 PM   #53
Les_Garten
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ignatz72 View Post
From the "Advantages" section of "Considerations for Use" heading in the Wikipedia page for LEDs:

"Shock resistance: LEDs, being solid state components, are difficult to damage with external shock, unlike fluorescent and incandescent bulbs, which are fragile."

For LEDs, the "filament" is actually an anode and a cathode joined by a wire, and all of this is usually encapsulated in an epoxy lens. Contrast this with an incandescent filament which is an unsupported, stressed, heated element. Easy to see how the LED itself is more robust.

The "bulbs," however, leave room for variance in shock resistance based on a number of things like how the LEDs are mounted to the bulb, circuit board integrity, etc. So the design of a particular LED bulb makes a difference. A $5 1156 LED bulb probably wont last longer than a $1 incandescent, but not because the LED itself failed...

I don't have historical proof of longevity for my LED installs YET, but I'm hoping the above theory holds true.

I wouldn't be saving much money if I have to replace a $25 LED bulb more often than a cheap-o incandescent. My hope is that I'll never have to again replace the idiot and gauge bulbs, and that my turn signal bulbs last between 5-10 years.
I'm burnin' a black candle on your azzz right now...

I just spent a boat load of cash with SB LEDs, Kisan, and Rick Jones because of you and your thread!

What else ya got...
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Old 01-20-2012, 12:13 PM   #54
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Quote:
The "bulbs," however, leave room for variance in shock resistance based on a number of things like how the LEDs are mounted to the bulb, circuit board integrity, etc. So the design of a particular LED bulb makes a difference. A $5 1156 LED bulb probably wont last longer than a $1 incandescent, but not because the LED itself failed...
The technology for making the Printed Circuit Boards and soldering the components (LEDs, diodes and resistors) is fully mature, and the likelyhood of having a mechanical failure is remote. IMO. An incandescent lamp, OTOH, has a filament that is a very thin wire, wound in a coil like a spring, goes from ambient temperature to 5000* (which is a few hundred degrees short of it's melting point) is a couple of milliseconds with an inrush current 2-3 times it's rated current and generates a whopping magnetic field. The miracle is that teh &%$#@ things work as well as they do.


You'll be OK, Les. :)
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Old 01-20-2012, 12:21 PM   #55
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I hear you Les, loud and clear.

Ignatz is on the hook and on the LED crack pipe.

I too have switched to LED in a number of applications and took the dive on the Kisan. All good in my experience. Think you will enjoy it as well. Looking forward to your FULL REPORT.

You may want to ask Ignatz about wiring up the Kisan too, it can be mounted backwards causing a small electrical explosion.
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Old 01-20-2012, 12:50 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by tennessee thumper View Post
I hear you Les, loud and clear.

Ignatz is on the hook and on the LED crack pipe.

I too have switched to LED in a number of applications and took the dive on the Kisan. All good in my experience. Think you will enjoy it as well. Looking forward to your FULL REPORT.

You may want to ask Ignatz about wiring up the Kisan too, it can be mounted backwards causing a small electrical explosion.
Hmmm, explosion...

I don't like the sound of that!
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Old 01-20-2012, 01:22 PM   #57
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Hey I may be smoking the LED pipe, but in the words of Denzell Washington in Training Day, "nobody forced you to smoke that pipe!"

Yes, there is a bit of a pricey pill to swallow initially, but I hope my ramblings here prove that any half-competent driveway mechanic can get the right combinations of LED bulbs to make it all work.

I do think you will be pleased with the results Les.

And I agree whole-heartedly with Bill Harris, as it really is amazing that incandescents survive on our bikes. LEDs start out ahead of the game reliability wise by their very nature. I mentioned the "workmanship" of a given bulb as the only real question to reliability. You gets what you pays for, and from what I've seen of the bulbs I've received from SBLEDS.com, I think these bulbs will last a very loooong time. I wouldn't say the same for LED bulb options sold via Autozone, etc.

And yeah, don't hook the Kisan up wrong or you'll release the system's battery smoke - it's very hard to put back in!
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Old 01-20-2012, 01:48 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by ignatz72 View Post
And yeah, don't hook the Kisan up wrong or you'll release the system's battery smoke - it's very hard to put back in!
Any particular pointers on how to avoid that little problem?
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Old 01-20-2012, 02:29 PM   #59
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You needed an SM-1, right?

No way to hook that one up wrong...

But for th SM-6, Kisan can't get rights from BMW to add a 15 pin plug so it just has a bit of circuit board sticking out one end with all the pins on it. It is fairly trivial to accidentally put the Kisan into the bike's factory plug upside down. When that happens, you fry some diodes in the Kisan.

Thankfully Andy (I think) at Kisan was very understanding and cross-shipped a new one for free. Apparently it happens a lot.
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Old 01-20-2012, 06:38 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ignatz72 View Post
You needed an SM-1, right?

No way to hook that one up wrong...

But for th SM-6, Kisan can't get rights from BMW to add a 15 pin plug so it just has a bit of circuit board sticking out one end with all the pins on it. It is fairly trivial to accidentally put the Kisan into the bike's factory plug upside down. When that happens, you fry some diodes in the Kisan.

Thankfully Andy (I think) at Kisan was very understanding and cross-shipped a new one for free. Apparently it happens a lot.
I ended up with the SM-1, Tailblazer, SB Leds 1156's all around, Beacon 2, and the License plate light that Rick Jones sells.

When you guys get the instruments fully sorted out I'll do those as well!
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