DR650SE Index Topic #12- ENGINE/CHAINS & SPROCKETS

[eakins]

Spark plug – 8 ftlbs (96 in lbs)
TDC inspection hole plug – 16.5 ft (198)
Oil drain – 17.5 ft (210)
Oil filter cover – 8flbs (96 in) stock – 4ft (48) alum cover
Oil – 2.5 qt w/ filter (10w-40)
Cylinder head cover bolt – 7ft (84)
Valves – adj on the tight end (engine runs quiter)
Handle bar clamp bolt – 16.5 ft (198)
Front wheel axel – 47 ft : tighten first, cycle shocks 5x
Front wheel axel clamp bolts – 7 ft (84 in) : tighten next, top bolt first
Front brake caliper bolts – 19ft (228)
Fr brake Bleed nipple – 6 ft (72)
Fr Brake pad mounting pin – 13lb (156)
Fr brake hose banjo bolts – 16.5ft (198)
Rear brake caliper pad – 13 ft (156)
Rear wheel axel nut – 72.5 ft (cotter pin) / 79.5 (fuji nut)
Upper triple clamp bolt – 21 ft (252) / lower 19 ft (228)
Chain free play – 1.2–1.8 in (30-45 mm) 1.2 to 1.8 inches of slack in the middle of the chain
Fork top cap – 16.5 ft (198)
Fork preload = 10-20mm
Fork oil height = 6.5” / 16 oz (5.9 lowered – need 2 qt)
Rear shock – upper bolt 40 ftlb , lower bolt 38 to 45 Nm (cogent) 55nm (stock)
Rear suspension Dog bones fuji-nuts (both) – 72.5 flbs
Steering stem (top of triple clamp) top nut/cap – 65 ft lbs
Counter sprocket bolts - 4.5 ft lbs


Bearings:
-Front wheel bearings: SKF 6003-2RSJ
-Front wheel seal: 09284-23001
-Rear wheel bearings: SKF 6204-2RSJ
2 x 6204 - 20x47x14
-Rear wheel seal (brake side): 09283-26019
1 x 26x47x7
-Lock nut from 2008 and newer: 08319-2118a
-Cush Hub bearing: SKF 6205-2RJSJ
1 x 6205 - 25x52x15
-Cush Seal - 1 x 35x52x7

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by LexTalionis
And there's the caveat. I have the MotionPro kit, rivet all my chains, yet the very first time I riveted a chain the riveted link was too tight and failed very early. Learned my lesson, now I use a caliper to measure the correct width between plates and carefully compress the rivets to that distance.
I suggest those new to riveting chains use a caliper and peen the rivets slowly and incrementally.
Lex

Slow down, relax, get in the 'zone'. If you're in a hurry, or don't know WTF 'zone' is, use a clip. If you choose a clip, make sure the clip fits into the groove completely without over squeezing the side plate (damaging the 0-ring). If you don't have a dial or digital vernier caliper, use a clip.

.

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by poppawheelie

Does the DR have a rev limiter, or is that just my carb running out of air when it goes "dut... dut... dut" at really high rpm? Sure sounds like a rev limiter.

Originally Posted by procycle

The CDI stops the party at 7750 RPM

[basketcase]

I'm trying to sort out what I want to do for my personal off-road "best fit."

		Rear
	Teeth	42	43	45
	13	0.310	0.302	0.289
Front	14	0.333	0.326	0.311
	15	0.357	0.349	0.333
	16	0.381	0.372	0.356

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by basketcase

I'm trying to sort out what I want to do for my personal off-road "best fit."

Are you going to stay with 525 set up, or going to 520?
For me, doing limited off road on my DR, I would try a 45T rear and then swap out front sprockets as needed. Seems with a 14/45 combo you'd have decent low gearing to putter along at fairly slow speeds without having to slip the clutch too much.

Then, if you wanted to go back on road, swap to the 16T ... which gets you back to stock gearing ratio.

If someone has found a 13T front sproc. that fits the DR650, I'd like to hear about it ... and I wonder how it worked.

[basketcase]

I'm going to stay with the 525 series. I don't plan to travel outside the US with the bike, and my riding venues will not get any more technically strenuous than what I'm doing now.

Somewhere over the past three years I read of a 13-t counter-sprocket but I don't find it on the vendor sites I patronize. Maybe someone else will chime in with a supplier.

Anyway, I agree the 14/45 and 16/45 seem to be the best pairing.

On the low end a 14/45 puts it where a 13/42 would be, and on the top side a 16/45 is almost the same as the stock 15/42.

Very likely it's where I'll head with it when I refresh the chain and sprockets.

[shu]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

Are you going to stay with 525 set up, or going to 520?
For me, doing limited off road on my DR, I would try a 45T rear and then swap out front sprockets as needed. Seems with a 14/45 combo you'd have decent low gearing to putter along at fairly slow speeds without having to slip the clutch too much.

Then, if you wanted to go back on road, swap to the 16T ... which gets you back to stock gearing ratio.

If someone has found a 13T front sproc. that fits the DR650, I'd like to hear about it ... and I wonder how it worked.

FatChance did a very nice write up on gearing for the DR. He uses a 48T Rear and switches between 14, 15, and 16 in front, but he has to add a few links to his chain to do it. I think he also said that the stock chain was too short for a 15 or 16 front and the 45 rear. Here's his write up:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=569034

..............shu

(edit:I see that ER70S-2 already posted this link in post #15)

[basketcase]

Thanks for the heads up on FatChance's write up. I'm embarrassed to admit I missed it earlier on the title.
That's useful information.

[NordieBoy]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

If someone has found a 13T front sproc. that fits the DR650, I'd like to hear about it ... and I wonder how it worked.

I've a feeling a 13t front would make the chain gark up the top of the swingarm slider quite quickly.

I use 14-15-16/46 in 112 link 520.

Normally stay with 15/46 though unless doing long road or singletrack.

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

I've a feeling a 13t front would make the chain gark up the top of the swingarm slider quite quickly.

I use 14-15-16/46 in 112 link 520.

Normally stay with 15/46 though unless doing long road or singletrack.

I think you're right on the 13T. On a dirt bike I used a too small front sprocket and it did just that. Swingarm rubber sliders wore out and ... it beat up the chain as well, wore it out in short order.

The "experts" say a chain does not like to make such a sharp U turn, which happens with a very small front sprocket. In any case, I'm not sure anyone makes a 13T sprocket for the DR650.

I've just replaced my front sprocket after my Baja trip. Towards the end of the 4000 mile ride things were feeling very "rough" under acceleration, like a bad clutch basket or bad bearing!

All kinds of weird thoughts go through your head when your on your bike day after day in the middle of nowhere! I "imagined" it was bad wheel bearings and had visions of ADV8's many burned up hub bearings danced in my head!

Good news was oiling made it all go away ... temporarily anyway. Funny, the sprockets did not look that bad. But changing to a new one made the bike ride like a Rolls Royce! Honestly ... so smooth! I also checked my chain alignment ... it was a little out. So that probably helped too.

This bike is a delight! Always seems to respond to good maintenance! A new (used actually) front sprocket is a small price to pay to make things like new again!

[ER70S-2]

mx_rob posted this on TT about the motor sounding 'wrong' when rotated backwards a few degrees to get right on TDC.

"Why you think you are screwed when that happens is the starter sprague clutch (bearing) is engaged as soon as you try to rotate the engine backwards. It takes a bit of effort to roll it backwards since you are having to spin the starter motor through all of the gearing reduction... and since you are turning the crank the reduction is backwards so the starter motor has to spin a lot of turns for a small amount of crank movement."

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...95&postcount=6

[ER70S-2]

The oil sump filter is behind the cover, bottom center. The cases have to be split for access.

Not my pic:

[Kommando]

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

I've a feeling a 13t front would make the chain gark up the top of the swingarm slider quite quickly.

I use 14-15-16/46 in 112 link 520.

Normally stay with 15/46 though unless doing long road or singletrack.

'Recently swapped to 16/46-520 from stock 15/42-525. I tried the rear 46t with the front 15t, but the DR was revving too high from 70MPH (indicated) and up. The 16/46 is just slightly lower than stock, letting the DR pull away from a stop a bit smoother with a passenger on back. Revs at 70MPH+ are still fine, the 520 chain is worn slightly slower than if using a smaller 520 CS sprocket, and the DR lugs along a little better in 1st.

[NordieBoy]

Originally Posted by Kommando

'Recently swapped to 16/46-520 from stock 15/42-525. I tried the rear 46t with the front 15t, but the DR was revving too high from 70MPH (indicated) and up. The 16/46 is just slightly lower than stock, letting the DR pull away from a stop a bit smoother with a passenger on back. Revs at 70MPH+ are still fine, the 520 chain is worn slightly slower than if using a smaller 520 CS sprocket, and the DR lugs along a little better in 1st.

I used 16/46 on the way down (400km) to an adventure ride. Ok for cruising but the wrong ratio for 50 & 70kph zones.
Changed to 14/46 for the first 2 days (800km). Nice in the hills but crap on the open fire-roads and sealed sections.
Used 15/46 for the 3rd day and the ride back home (1100km). Made more use of the DR's torque and still let me cruise at 100-110kph. Anything over 110kph here and you're getting a ticket.

15/46 is my day-to-day gearing.

[Krusty ...]

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

This thread title is:
Engine/chains & sprockets (maybe it should read: Engine, Chains & Sprockets)

How about "DRIVELINE"? That covers the transmission, too .