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Old 02-22-2012, 07:13 PM   #16
Mrs forrest_fire1 OP
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Originally Posted by GarageRat View Post
I'm in. Way cool.

When you are done with this, a complete success, black and blue from the kick backs, etc..etc..will you consider starting a class for spouses?
My father-in-law teaches a small engine community class for Central Oregon Community College. It covers engine principles including ignition, carberation, and 4 stroke vs 2 stroke. The class ratio is 50/50 between males and females. Its very informative.
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Old 02-22-2012, 07:18 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by southforkspeedster View Post
Go Jen, Go

Can't wait to see your restored yamaha

Hope to see you and ff soon!!!!

I will be subscribed to this thread
Hey SFS, we need to get together when they are done and go for a ride and I guess we can bring Mr FF1 with us.
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Old 02-23-2012, 12:23 AM   #18
Hunsta
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Great thread. Had my own 1974 360 years ago. Couldnt kill it with a stick. It once sat on its side in red clay mud for 18months and was stop seized when we got it up. Took the head off poured some engine oil around the top of the piston and gave it a few taps with a piece of wood and hammer and she came free. Gave the barrel a touch up with some 1500grade wet and dry, put the head back on and it fired 3rd kick.
Got my own rebuild to start in the coming weeks. A 1976 DT250C flat-tracker.
cheers
Craig
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Old 02-23-2012, 01:36 AM   #19
Shocktower
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Hey very nice, if you need some odd ball parts,I know some places to get NOS stuff
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Old 02-23-2012, 04:10 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Shocktower View Post
Hey very nice, if you need some odd ball parts,I know some places to get NOS stuff
Care to share that info
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Old 02-23-2012, 05:32 AM   #21
slideways
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For just about any kind of machine work you need on two strokes this is the place to go http://www.eric-gorr.com/ServiceMast...2-Strokes.html
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Old 02-23-2012, 10:37 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Hunsta View Post
Care to share that info
Sure it's speed and sport inc they have lots of stuff also economy cycle has good stuff
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Old 02-23-2012, 04:25 PM   #23
MightyChosen1
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Looking foward to see this project come together. My beat up old 73 RT-3 is been sitting out in the shed for a year but I hope to get to it sometime soon.



Like someone said . Lots of power but not much in the suspension department. I need to upgrade to rears shocks and brakes before I start riding it again.
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Old 02-24-2012, 01:15 PM   #24
Gundecker
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Great re-build report.I spent some formative time on my brothers DT 360 back in the late '70s.They have a distinctive sound and feel.I can't wait to see the project completed and hear your ride impressions.
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Old 03-01-2012, 01:59 AM   #25
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Day 3

Right from the start of the day I began to continue cleaning the dirt and grime off the bike. It seams like an endless task, but I can tell I'm making progress. I grabbed the gas tank and clean off the outside, then I dared to take a peek at what the inside of the tank had in store for me. I was so surprised to find that the tank is in excellant shape. Thankfully it was completely out of fuel when stored, so it didn't have any bad fuel gunk and there wasn't a lick of rust. Yes!!!, I manage to remove the hoses attached, which turned out to be quite the challenge as the hose was removed in multiple pieces. Finished up the tank by putting on fresh fuel lines and a little Dot 5 for some extra shine.

That afternoon my piston and gaskets arrived in shipping. My husband said he will do his best to get the piston ported for me ASAP, but he does have a shop to run. Hopefully it will be sooner than later . So I'm at a stand still with the engine, until the piston is completed. Then I will send the piston and cylinder in to get hoaned/bored.

It was an excellant Central Oregon winter day, sunny in the mid sixties. I was itching to take the dirtbikes out and go for a ride. Well.... the previous weekend (while I worked) my husband and his father-in-law went riding on some fresh built trails by COMAC (central oregon motorcycle & ATV club) and the forrest service. My father-in-laws bike is currently out of service until he finishes rebuilding his carburetor. So, needless to say, my bike was used. Which is fine and dandy, until it's returned to me missing a few exhaust bolts. So I got distracted from my RT1 project to fix the exhaust and put a new seat cover on my bike, cause I wanted to go riding the next day, when my husband was off. On a side note: we ended up not going riding as planned the next day, because we woke up to 3 inches of new snow and that ment the riding areas, easily had double the amount of snow

Back to my report.

My next step was to begin working on the forks. One seal is leaky and I'm sure the oil is just rotten. I could just clean the seals really well, but it would be so simple to just change everything out. The research began. OEM seals are non-existant, so I just can't order them from our OEM dealer. The aftermarket books that we have doesn't even list RT1 360 bikes. I then turned to the internet to hopefully find something. I came across this Ebay sale and they had listed these seals that were for MX 125, 250... DT1 & RT1. Hmmmm...... so I went back to the aftermarket catalogs to see what those bikes all took or if they were listed. The MX 125 & 250's and DT1's were listed and they all take the same fork seal. It makes sense that in 1972 yamaha only had a handful of fork sizes compared to today's market. Though before ordering any seals (or wasting money) I want to confirm that these seals for the MX & DT's will also fit the RT1's. Does anyone know if this is accurate? I plan to try and call up the store rep for yamaha eventually and confirm this, but what do my fellow bike enthusiasts say? My next question for you, does anyone have any experience on the best weight for fork oil to use in the RT1's? I plan to use the bike for on road/dirt road use. Input is greatly appreciated here.

Sometimes I find myself easily distracted when I'm researching stuff on the internet. I started searching out seals, then I was checking out what other RT1 parts were available on ebay, then I'm checking out accessories and the process goes on. I finally got back on track and went back to the RT1. I priced out some fork oils, just to get an idea of how much I will spend.

I probably just need to pull of the forks and just check out the condition of the seals and everything else. I think that's what I'll do next.

Day 3 wasn't that super productive, but I did learn a fair amount of information while researching. It's just unfortunate that time flies by when doing this. So not pictures were taken, but I'll definately take more the next time I work on the bike.

Until Next Time.....
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Old 03-01-2012, 09:25 AM   #26
Shocktower
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You need some sleep . I am just as bad with my RD400, read and read, then some more, look at yamaha-motors parts catalog, the have schematics, which show you the assyblies, I am nearly done with mine, now when I can get my license and the rain stop , I will be riding it
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Old 03-01-2012, 09:29 AM   #27
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Ok I did a search for you and Yamaha-motor USA said the have the seals , to get them you just send an email to your local dealer and the get then from Yamaha
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:48 PM   #28
Hunsta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrs forrest_fire1 View Post
I probably just need to pull of the forks and just check out the condition of the seals and everything else. I think that's what I'll do next.

..
Do yourself a favour and just change the seals. Weather the old ones look good or not, its a pain to have to redo the forks if you find the old one sh#t themselves after the first hour. As for the ebay bay ones, go for it. Ive ordered mine of ebay for my 76 DT250. Way cheaper and just as good as OEM ones
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Old 03-01-2012, 09:05 PM   #29
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Great thread and great save!

I did a frame off restoration of a 1969 Yamaha CT1 and had lot of fun. I found bikebandit.com had OEM parts and diagrams. Not all parts are still available but eBay vendors still sell a lot of NOS and used parts that worked out great.

Definately replace the seals (2 crank, sprocket, kick start and oil pump shaft). These dry out and don't seal after 40 years :). When they fail, they'll either allow extra air into the crank case (engine revs out), sucks oil into the crank case (007 style smoke screen) or just empties your crank oil onto your garage floor .

I bought a complete seal set from eBay for $15. I also found a carb rebuild kit for about the same. I got a tip to use Berryman's to clean the carb varnish as well that's usually in the fuel bowl.

Good luck on your project!
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Old 03-01-2012, 11:51 PM   #30
nsu max
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Originally Posted by tHEtREV View Post
.
I hope this helps with oil pump.
1) As you look at the pump starting on the left side you will see a white plastic gear if you look closly you will see an arrow on the face of the gear pointing in the direction that the gear rotates when the engine is running.
2) Then if you look at the the hose next to the gear there is a phillip head screw with a red fiber sealing washer next to the hose, if you remove the phillip head screw (don't loose the red sealing washer) a bit of oil will/should run out.
3) Now if you take a finger and rotate the gear in the direction the arrow is pointing oil should come out of the hole that the phillip head screw was in. If oil pump cable is pulled and the black pully is moved more oil should come out of the hole.
4) Don't forget to put the screw back in and snug it up.
5) For proper oiling the pump is adjusted with the engine idling, the cable adjuster is tightened or loosened to line up the line or ridge on the cable pully with the pin next to it.
Thats how you check the oil pump, this is also how the pump gets primed or air bubbles are cleared from the oil line if you change the old oil or if the tank goes empty.
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