2012 ktm 500 exc?

[Lulu7404]

Originally Posted by SteveO

The other screen is accessed from the shifter side of the bike and is "about" 3" long. Removing the larger bolt (13mm, i think), the screen will be stuck in there. Take some needle nose pliers and pull this screen out. Don't pinch too hard on the plastic screen housing, as it's not necessary to remove the screen. This screen can be cleaned as well.

This is the one I am referring too. It's not getting it out, it's putting it back in. I assume you don't need a special tool "pin wrench" to get the screen reseated inside the case?

Also, does everyone lay the bike over on right side and pour oil into filter housing? Never had a street bike need this, cause they are usually on bottom of motor, but my last dirt bike was a 2 smoker so this was never done then either.

Thx

[Kristobal K]

Originally Posted by Lulu7404

Going to do my 1 hour oil change today. Owners manual states on pg88 "push the engine oil screen with the O-rings onto a pin wrench" "Push the pin wrench through the opening into the drill hole of the opposite engine case wall and push the oil screen as far as possible into the engine case"
First oil change on first KTM. Is this pin wrench something I need to get from my KTM dealer or is it a common tool used for dirt bikes? Nothing in my goody bag looks similar to picture. Of course my dealer didn't know what i was talking about when I mentioned the little bag of bolts to desmog and fix kick stand either.

thx

Use a chop stick. Run the screen up the stick, insert the stick end in the case and 'find' the screen seat on the inside of the opposite case, run the screen down the stick until it seats properly, pull the stick and plug it.

Using a pin wrench or chopstick helps you align the screen and assures you won't drop it into the crankcase.

[SteveO]

Putting the screen back in is pretty straight forward.

Push it back in, and with you fingers, you should be able to align it up, and slightly push it back in. Mine seated just fine with a slight push, back into the correct position. As well, unless you are WAY off, it would be pretty hard to have it drop into the case, unable to reach it again.

[child]

Originally Posted by Lulu7404

This is the one I am referring too. It's not getting it out, it's putting it back in. I assume you don't need a special tool "pin wrench" to get the screen reseated inside the case?

Also, does everyone lay the bike over on right side and pour oil into filter housing? Never had a street bike need this, cause they are usually on bottom of motor, but my last dirt bike was a 2 smoker so this was never done then either.

Thx

I was wondering the same thing. I studied the little diagram they have showing you how to stick it in and came to the conclusion that you don't -need- a special tool. What I think they're trying to do is to make sure the screen gets seated correctly into the pocket that is deep in the hole.

I think it is possible to stick the filter in at a weird angle and still screw the plug on. If the screen gets put in at an angle and isn't seated into this deep pocket, oil will get picked up, bypassing the screen. The trick is when you go to stick the screen back in, make sure you feel it slide in to that pocket. Once its in the pocket, the near side of the screen will be centered in the hole and if you wiggle it around it won't rattle.

I've done 4 or 5 oil changes now with out a pin wrench and haven't exploded a motor yet, haha.

I do lay the bike over as suggested. I have the room in my garage, so why not? I figure the bike enjoys the gentle nap, every other time it gets to lay down it's usually with a lot more drama, haha.

[dieselcruiserhead]

Originally Posted by ABYSS

you are worried about RPM range on a dirt bike???? So now what are you going to install a tach so you can know when to shift?

Why not add a rekluse auto clutch and the you can join all the other "special needs" riders out there that are too lazy to learn how to use a clutch"

Does it really matter???

Look man, especially on this board, everyone uses their bikes differently. Honestly, if this bike can hang as a more comforable version of the 520/525/530 models and folks are willing to vet this out, then more power to him...

One point is I was surprised by folks saying they are clutching on the their 13/50s. I believe that the gearing is pretty similar as the old 530?? (can someone confirm or clarify?) If so that would be surprising as I run 13/48 on my 520 '02 RFS (which has less torque than the 525 and 530 models, but more high end), and only need to clutch if it is really really gnarly...

I would imagine the power band of the 500 is pretty smooth, particularly once desmogged??

Thanks

[SteveO]

Originally Posted by dieselcruiserhead

..........

I would imagine the power band of the 500 is pretty smooth, particularly once desmogged??

Thanks

IMHO, it's very smooth after desmogging......

great bike and engine....

[jesusgatos]

You keep posting about Rekluse clutches and I can't understand why? Wasn't in response to anything that anyone else posted, and don't really see the relevance here, but OK. Rekluse clutches are ghey. Real men blah blah blah. We get it. Think you're wrong, and being kind of a knucklehead, but don't really want to argue either of those points. Just give it a rest.

[ABYSS]

Originally Posted by jesusgatos

You keep posting about Rekluse clutches and I can't understand why? Wasn't in response to anything that anyone else posted, and don't really see the relevance here, but OK. Rekluse clutches are ghey. Real men blah blah blah. We get it. Think you're wrong, and being kind of a knucklehead, but don't really want to argue either of those points. Just give it a rest.

knuckle head is accurate, my bad. I will nuke'em

[Lulu7404]

Originally Posted by dieselcruiserhead

One point is I was surprised by folks saying they are clutching on the their 13/50s. I believe that the gearing is pretty similar as the old 530?? (can someone confirm or clarify?) If so that would be surprising as I run 13/48 on my 520 '02 RFS (which has less torque than the 525 and 530 models, but more high end), and only need to clutch if it is really really gnarly...

I would imagine the power band of the 500 is pretty smooth, particularly once desmogged??

Thanks

I have a EXC and it is geared 15/45 stock. WAY!!!!!!!!! taller than 13/50. WWWWAAAAYYYY taller. Helps with 100mph hwy blasts, not that I have done that, but someone posted indicated 100 earlier. And when I say putzing around, I mean 5-6 mph not with throttle trying to climb anything. Just in a grass field trying to show my wife how to balance on the pegs for offroading. Fingers just got a bit tired of playing the clutch so much. Hey, I have been on a street bike for years. Call me soft!

[Lulu7404]

And thanks for all the advice on the oil screen tool. I just happen to have a chopstick AND and finger. Will give them both a shot today.

[reidinitaly]

Originally Posted by Lulu7404

I have a EXC and it is geared 15/45 stock. WAY!!!!!!!!! taller than 13/50. WWWWAAAAYYYY taller. Helps with 100mph hwy blasts, not that I have done that, but someone posted indicated 100 earlier. And when I say putzing around, I mean 5-6 mph not with throttle trying to climb anything. Just in a grass field trying to show my wife how to balance on the pegs for offroading. Fingers just got a bit tired of playing the clutch so much. Hey, I have been on a street bike for years. Call me soft!

I'm a trials rider at heart, but being in the Military and currently being stationed in the panhandle of Florida (flat and sugar sand everywhere), there's no trials to be had. So... I got the '12 five-hunny and love it. As for tired clutch fingers I hear you loud and clear as I always ride with my index finger resting on the lever for quick pulls to surge the power or corral it if needed. I just purchased the Midwest Mountain Engineering CLever Lever (supposed to reduce pull by 50%). I will be installing this weekend and doing a thorough thrashing next weekend. I'll post up to let you know if it works or not.

[child]

Originally Posted by dieselcruiserhead

One point is I was surprised by folks saying they are clutching on the their 13/50s. I believe that the gearing is pretty similar as the old 530?? (can someone confirm or clarify?) If so that would be surprising as I run 13/48 on my 520 '02 RFS (which has less torque than the 525 and 530 models, but more high end), and only need to clutch if it is really really gnarly...

I would imagine the power band of the 500 is pretty smooth, particularly once desmogged??

Thanks

I think the only one who mentioned clutching the 13/50 gearing was theantipaul, and I think his point was not that it needed clutching to keep from stalling the motor, but as a way to smooth out/reduce power to the rear wheel on steep uphills (correct me if I'm wrong Paul). I can't speak for the comparison to the 525/530 gearing, but you can make it up some real steep gnarly hills with out clutching from a low RPM perspective. The power is smooth, but there is a LOT of it available real quick. If your front end is light while going up a hill and you don't have your weight right, that front end comes up SO easy, so so easy.

When I had the 14/50 gearing on I was forced to clutch going up steeper hills, more than I liked, so I went back to 13/50. I can't imagine trail riding with the 15/50.

Just for reference, the jump between 13/50 and 14/50 was basically 1 gear. 13/50 puts 2nd gear where first gear was on the 14/50. (granted, this is just seat of the pants. I don't know the real numbers off hand)

I've got some pretty good video of myself getting half way up a hill and failing due to a wheelie / bad weight placement, I'll have to upload

[ABYSS]

Originally Posted by child

SNIP.... If your front end is light while going up a hill and you don't have your weight right, that front end comes up SO easy, so so easy.

...

But I wasnt there so I dont know. I cant imagine that being a problem as most of the time his comments & pics depict his weight being to close to the ground .....

Just pulling your chain sir...

[theantipaul]

Originally Posted by child

I think the only one who mentioned clutching the 13/50 gearing was theantipaul, and I think his point was not that it needed clutching to keep from stalling the motor, but as a way to smooth out/reduce power to the rear wheel on steep uphills (correct me if I'm wrong Paul). I can't speak for the comparison to the 525/530 gearing, but you can make it up some real steep gnarly hills with out clutching from a low RPM perspective. The power is smooth, but there is a LOT of it available real quick. If your front end is light while going up a hill and you don't have your weight right, that front end comes up SO easy, so so easy.

Chris, that's exactly what I was trying to get at, but I should say I've been hard on clutches on just about everything, I also just can't seem to feel right bogging a motor either. It took me a day to get used to, but I have to say I still think the throttle is a bit twitchy for me. Clutching is just my way of controling what I haven't learned yet.

In Utah, we did sand washes one day and mud the next, in the sand, I'd go sliding in a corner and wheelie out, when all I wanted to do was continue sliding. In the mud, well, let's just say I was wearing a lot by the end, barely crack the throttle and the rear end was going by me. Was almost never in 1st even in the tighter single track sections, 2nd was my happy place and going up anything steep in 1st was a crap shoot. Didn't know if I was going to spool the rear or loop.

So for me, I'm still learning how to ride the damn thing, it's a freaking monster! Nothing feels normal on it.

Looking forward to spending a few days at the track and dial the suspension in.

BTW, does anyone have a pic of what the stock position is for the starter solenoid?

[ABYSS]

Originally Posted by theantipaul

Snip...

BTW, does anyone have a pic of what the stock position is for the starter solenoid?

If no one gets you one before I get home Ill send you one.