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Old 02-29-2012, 10:53 PM   #31
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Ford F-250 crew cab w/8' box, Cummins engine, Allison transmission. Want.
http://www.fordcummins.com/
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Old 02-29-2012, 11:08 PM   #32
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And, wouldn't Ken look good down at the marina in an "Excalade" with some chromed-out 22s?

Take out the rear panel and crank up the bass! Uh-huh, uh-huh.
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Old 02-29-2012, 11:22 PM   #33
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Old 03-01-2012, 04:47 AM   #34
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Towing all the time? GM 6.0 gas or dmax diesel

Towing once in a while, most of the time empty? GM 5.3L (really really good mileage for a V8, still plenty stout)

That turbo ford V6 is really interesting but I don't know enough about it

A half-ton will pull the 7500lbs just fine, but if you go that route I'd get a weight-distributing hitch and make sure the brakes really really work. Just my .02, I'm a bit of a pussy about pushing the envelope on tow ratings.
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Old 03-01-2012, 05:24 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by Boondoggle View Post
Towing all the time? GM 6.0 gas or dmax diesel

Towing once in a while, most of the time empty? GM 5.3L (really really good mileage for a V8, still plenty stout)

That turbo ford V6 is really interesting but I don't know enough about it

A half-ton will pull the 7500lbs just fine, but if you go that route I'd get a weight-distributing hitch and make sure the brakes really really work. Just my .02, I'm a bit of a pussy about pushing the envelope on tow ratings.

No towing all the time and I'm a pussy about towing as well. I have seen too much bad shit happen as a result of pulling trailers
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Old 03-01-2012, 05:38 AM   #36
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Oh yeah, insurance.

Other opinions will vary, but if you're towing full time I would get a 3/4 ton diesel or 6.0. Horsepower isn't the issue, chassis is the issue. The 3/4t will be more comfortable with a heavy load, better brakes, better suspension, just a better tool for the job. 7,500lbs is right on the border between an overworked 1/2 ton and an overkill 3/4 ton. I personally like overkill.

Whatcha pulling? Horses and Boats are a little less stable than a box of motorcycles or rocks.
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Old 03-01-2012, 05:46 AM   #37
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and we could probably get it painted to match your mauve window treatments.

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Old 03-01-2012, 06:27 AM   #38
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no gas gm with the cylinder deactivation. Have it checked for intake gasket deteoration and fixed if needed.. Flush out the deathcool and put in G5 zerex. Change transmission fluid by dropping the pan, get an extra pan gasket. New filter, drive a month and drop again. Just change fluid, you will only need a filter every 100K or so. Now change oil every 5K, drop pan to change trans every other oil change do not use fram filters or oiled type air filters ever.. Flush brake fluid and power steering, change rear lube every election year, preferable during all the political ads. Humm, I am due. 300K is easy with gas. Likely the difference in purchase price will pay for the extra fuel over a diesel with money left over and you will have heat much faster in the winter.

Diesel, get a dodge CTD manual transmission, honest. Do not put a tuner on it, and change fluids on schedule, add in brake fluid. It will be fine. Honest.

NO Ford 6.0 ever. Too soon on the newest 6.7 and it will bust the budget anyway. GM diesel is OK if not tuned.

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Old 03-01-2012, 06:31 AM   #39
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no gas gm with the cylinder deactivation.
?

the newer 5.3's have it, have heard happy stories from a couple neighbors about 'em (one who never pulls anything, another who pulls a utility tractor everywhere he goes).
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Old 03-01-2012, 06:55 AM   #40
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Cylinder deactivation on the GM seems to be associated with high oil consumption after about 100K miles, for the OP who wants 300K miles not a good idea.

Rod
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:35 AM   #41
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Oh yeah, insurance.

Other opinions will vary, but if you're towing full time I would get a 3/4 ton diesel or 6.0. Horsepower isn't the issue, chassis is the issue. The 3/4t will be more comfortable with a heavy load, better brakes, better suspension, just a better tool for the job. 7,500lbs is right on the border between an overworked 1/2 ton and an overkill 3/4 ton. I personally like overkill.

Whatcha pulling? Horses and Boats are a little less stable than a box of motorcycles or rocks.

Boats and it weights 3,000 dry/empty. Add motor, fuel, water, supplies, trailer etc and I'd think no more than 5,500 max.
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:47 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by ragtoplvr View Post
no gas gm with the cylinder deactivation. Have it checked for intake gasket deteoration and fixed if needed.. Flush out the deathcool and put in G5 zerex. Change transmission fluid by dropping the pan, get an extra pan gasket. New filter, drive a month and drop again. Just change fluid, you will only need a filter every 100K or so. Now change oil every 5K, drop pan to change trans every other oil change do not use fram filters or oiled type air filters ever.. Flush brake fluid and power steering, change rear lube every election year, preferable during all the political ads. Humm, I am due. 300K is easy with gas. Likely the difference in purchase price will pay for the extra fuel over a diesel with money left over and you will have heat much faster in the winter.

Diesel, get a dodge CTD manual transmission, honest. Do not put a tuner on it, and change fluids on schedule, add in brake fluid. It will be fine. Honest.

NO Ford 6.0 ever. Too soon on the newest 6.7 and it will bust the budget anyway. GM diesel is OK if not tuned.

Rod
This seems to be a good piece of unbiased advice....I couldn't agree more about the dodge CTD w/manual, i just wish it were wrapped in something other than it is from the factory. But I bet I could live with it.
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:51 AM   #43
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This seems to be a good piece of unbiased advice....
Words to live by IMHO
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:43 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by ragtoplvr View Post
no gas gm with the cylinder deactivation. Have it checked for intake gasket deteoration and fixed if needed.. Flush out the deathcool and put in G5 zerex. Change transmission fluid by dropping the pan, get an extra pan gasket. New filter, drive a month and drop again. Just change fluid, you will only need a filter every 100K or so. Now change oil every 5K, drop pan to change trans every other oil change do not use fram filters or oiled type air filters ever.. Flush brake fluid and power steering, change rear lube every election year, preferable during all the political ads. Humm, I am due. 300K is easy with gas. Likely the difference in purchase price will pay for the extra fuel over a diesel with money left over and you will have heat much faster in the winter.

Diesel, get a dodge CTD manual transmission, honest. Do not put a tuner on it, and change fluids on schedule, add in brake fluid. It will be fine. Honest.

NO Ford 6.0 ever. Too soon on the newest 6.7 and it will bust the budget anyway. GM diesel is OK if not tuned.

Rod

Fuel filter change every 30,000 miles too.
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Old 03-02-2012, 02:41 AM   #45
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thanks Rod, that's the first I've heard of that stuff... I'm in the market for a pickup too, and I keep vehicles a couple hundred thousand miles... I was looking straight at 5.3L gms...

Dang it was a perfectly good plan, until all those pesky facts came along.



edit- any idea what general effect the urea systems are having on diesels? It seems fuel mileage is lower now (at least on the internet, ho ho). I'm putting about 25k/yr on the truck, with about 4-6k towing... damn, I really wanted to love that 5.3l GM, good power and low-mid 20's mpg on the highway
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