Call all XR600R!!!

[jesusgatos]

No, not of the 650, and I don't have turn signals installed on my KTM but used one of their 2-button setups to wire-up the start/kill switches.

[2manyrides]

1 minute or so long...a 1988 XR600R tips over and gets busted.

[polson]

Originally Posted by jesusgatos

No, not of the 650, and I don't have turn signals installed on my KTM but used one of their 2-button setups to wire-up the start/kill switches.

Nice is this your turn signal switch


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[jesusgatos]

No, those are momentary start/kill switches. But they make a few different setups with 3-way micro-switches that would be perfect for that (turn signals) and other accessories, like grip heaters, etc.

[polson]

Awesome thanks

[elsalvadorklr]

Originally Posted by nonfatwater7

Anybody know anything about the rear shock? I still can't figure it out. If I don't have any air in the bladder in the rear will the compression damping still work? If i try to adjust my compression damping nothing happens, it doesnt change at all. And it feels like there isn't really much there right now anyway...kinda desperate on this one, need help!!!

hey my 2c,

I had shock issues and finally had a revalved/rebuilt xrl shock setup for me out on and the difference in the back at least, with traction and feel was awesome!

What I would do is take the shock off the bike, and take it to a shop where you can check the pressure, if its low then you ca at least add air back(yes air is ok for now but you need nitrogen) get it to around 200psi.

if this improves your shock then you know it was because of lack pf pressure.

Im no expert but the pressure if the air in the bladder use is to keep the oil separate and to prevent foaming and fading...

If you still have no compression damping or rebound damping changes when adjusting the clickers then you probably have no oil, or leaked out enough oil to render them useless and therefore you need a rebuild

hope this helps.

Out of curiosity let us know what pressure yo have in your shock, I want to do this to my 88 just to find out cause it was pretty saggy but the clickers clearly worked.

cheers

[rogervize]

Hi..new to this forum..slowly working through the thread.
I have a '92 XR600R..When the OE muffler expired(rusted out) I replaced it with this.
I bought it new from the shop and didn't want to pay heaps at the time
so ...was maybe getting a compromise pipe.
Can anyone tell me the likely performance to be expected..ie how much restriction..and what maintenance.
Engine has standard mods and jets are 162/60 for near sea level.
I should also say that I have been happy with the performance of the bike but just wondering if it could be even better?
PS ..I have removed the tail piece as I believe it serves little purpose.
Cheers..and thanks for a great forum....Roger

[nonfatwater7]

Not a bad idea, I just didn't want to go through the trouble of taking the shock off and all that. If it is busted there is someone local that has one for $50 and I think that is cheaper than a rebuild so I'll probably go with that.

Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr

hey my 2c,

I had shock issues and finally had a revalved/rebuilt xrl shock setup for me out on and the difference in the back at least, with traction and feel was awesome!

What I would do is take the shock off the bike, and take it to a shop where you can check the pressure, if its low then you ca at least add air back(yes air is ok for now but you need nitrogen) get it to around 200psi.

if this improves your shock then you know it was because of lack pf pressure.

Im no expert but the pressure if the air in the bladder use is to keep the oil separate and to prevent foaming and fading...

If you still have no compression damping or rebound damping changes when adjusting the clickers then you probably have no oil, or leaked out enough oil to render them useless and therefore you need a rebuild

hope this helps.

Out of curiosity let us know what pressure yo have in your shock, I want to do this to my 88 just to find out cause it was pretty saggy but the clickers clearly worked.

cheers

[2manyrides]

Originally Posted by nonfatwater7

Not a bad idea, I just didn't want to go through the trouble of taking the shock off and all that. If it is busted there is someone local that has one for $50 and I think that is cheaper than a rebuild so I'll probably go with that.

Check it out though as after 20 years the rubber bumper on the center stem is toast. I was needing a shock mount redo kit and my rubber bumper was done. I got an extra rear shock for 50 bucks and it had a bad bumper too. In the end had to rebuild a shock.
(you can't change the bumper without disassembly)
In the end I've got a stronger spring than stock...

photos of toast

[nonfatwater7]

Mine isn't quite that old but nevertheless it's probably way past due for a go over. Are these things hard to rebuild? I mean I've pulled apart forks and changed fluid by myself bur never tried a rear shock before...

Originally Posted by 22manyrides

Check it out though as after 20 years the rubber bumper on the center stem is toast. I was needing a shock mount redo kit and my rubber bumper was done. I got an extra rear shock for 50 bucks and it had a bad bumper too. In the end had to rebuild a shock.
(you can't change the bumper without disassembly)
In the end I've got a stronger spring than stock...

photos of toast

[2manyrides]

Originally Posted by nonfatwater7

Mine isn't quite that old but nevertheless it's probably way past due for a go over. Are these things hard to rebuild? I mean I've pulled apart forks and changed fluid by myself bur never tried a rear shock before...

Not that bad, right...
The red shock is my original 92. The bumper was there but it too was junk. Just poke at it a bit to see how its doing and if it's good.

Rebuild...
I gotta admit I stood by and helped a little while my friend did it in his garage. He knows how, has the nitrogen...ect.

[elsalvadorklr]

dude your wasting your time buying another used shock same vintage and expect it to be better...

anywhoo

try and rebuild

but at least know if you have pressure in it... how hard is that?

good luck!

[rogervize]

Hey friends..new here..After reading the thread I thought I'd check the drive shaft splines for wear on my '92 XR600R
I am seeing significant wear and suspect it's possible that previous owner (and myself) have been using after market sprockets.
I recently had work done on the bike and they fitted new sprockets(15/48) and chain.
Almost no miles done so far since the overhaul but I see it is a JT counter shaft sprocket.
It measures about 9mm thickness at the base and has 4 holes.(and JT logo)
I guess I should replace this?
Might go down to 14T as well..Hoping the chain can be adjusted with the smaller sprocket.
The adjuster is about middle range at present.
Is the OM sprocket wider on the splines? therefore distributing wear
It's a low miles bike and hoping to get the maximum out of this baby.
...Roger

[2manyrides]

I think they physicaly look the same, it's the material that is different....
Right?

[rogervize]

Thanks..I think my 15 T is maybe for a 650
From what I have read on here (and TT) the 650 uses a thinner sprocket which they swap out for the thicker 600R unit.
I would like the original (OEM) type sprocket for my '92 XR600R.
The harder metal used in the JT causes excessive wear to the CS splines.
Thanks to ELSalvadorkLR and others (including yourself)
Just want confirmation of a suitable brand to replace it.
Is the XR's Only brand(forget what it is) OK?
How much wear on the splines would you expect for 10,000Kms..moderate usage?
Sorry can't supply photo of my splines..not enough light for my camera.
PS..love your video blog BTW...keep it up!