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Old 03-02-2012, 03:24 PM   #1996
motoged
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Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
Oddometer: 865
...If you pack it and cram it in there artfully and with dedication....the GB might swallow it all.....but, as you know....sometimes it gets spit out despite the deception of swallowing...

It depends on what else is packed in the bag...tents can be broken down into tent bag, flysheet bag, and pole bag separately, rather than the usual "long" tent bag. For sleeping bags, I use several nylon webbing straps to compress the bag smaller than just it's usual size/shape in the stuff sack.

The Coyote would very easily contain a sleeping bag and a good 2-3 person tent....just not too much room left for clothes and sundries....

Good luck
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:20 PM   #1997
Barman
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Saratoga Springs, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbx2001 View Post
Thanks for the clarification. I would then guess the new engine would very similar to the Duke R (690cc vs 654cc in standard Duke).
On another note, I contacted RallyRaid about 10 days ago and they are supposed to reviewing a 2012 690R to check on the fitment of their parts to the newer model.
Aha! That's probably the reason for the month and a half delay shipping their new soft luggage pannier racks. I ordered those buggers in 2011. Upside is that they're already paid for.
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:21 PM   #1998
R-dubb
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Joined: Aug 2001
Location: San Francisco
Oddometer: 4,764
Quote:
Originally Posted by R-dubb View Post
I left both the basket and the drive hub on the bike and simply removed the retaining ring, springs and clutch disks. ready to measure and replace with an EBC clutch pack.
Ok....moving on.

Kind of think the rattle fit on the basket is perfectly normal.

Middle friction plates measure right at the wear limit of 2.5mm (new ones are 2.8mm). Facing discs show lots of burning and discoloration but not warped. Spring lengths are near the bottom of sag limit but not under. Looks like a good time for a new clutch. I've got abot 10,000 miles on the bike, some of it fairly rough duty.

Very easy job. EBC kit not very expenssive. Well worth doing. I'll let you all know how the new one works in a few days.
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:24 PM   #1999
Velociraptor
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Joined: Apr 2005
Location: Seattle
Oddometer: 1,021
Quote:
Originally Posted by R-dubb View Post
Ok....moving on.

Kind of think the rattle fit on the basket is perfectly normal.

Middle friction plates measure right at the wear limit of 2.5mm (new ones are 2.8mm). Facing discs show lots of burning and discoloration but not warped. Spring lengths are near the bottom of sag limit but not under. Looks like a good time for a new clutch. I've got abot 10,000 miles on the bike, some of it fairly rough duty.

Very easy job. EBC kit not very expenssive. Well worth doing. I'll let you all know how the new one works in a few days.
Nice to read about this since I am replacing my clutch plates at the end of the month. I have the manual but it is a little vague.
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2014 KTM 1290 Superduke R
2009 KTM 690r Enduro SOLD
2002 RC51 SOLD
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Old 03-02-2012, 05:04 PM   #2000
RoninMoto
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Joined: May 2010
Location: EN ZED
Oddometer: 1,614
actual power consumption

Hey folks. I was never able to fin exactally how many watts the 690 uses for fi, spark, comp etc. So I ran an experiment tonight. I hooked my amp meter up in series with the battery (with a parralell jumper to start it) and disconnected the stator, headlight.. all but the tail and dash.

After starting the bike and removing the temp jumper this is what I found:

a steady 6 amps flowing at idel or up in the revs.
6amps x 12 volts = 72 watts.

Call it 80w just to be safe and you have about 145w to play with for everything else. Hope this info is helpfull to others.
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RTW Ride Report --> http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781893
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Old 03-02-2012, 05:10 PM   #2001
thorinoakenshield
ya mo be there
 
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: ☼
Oddometer: 446
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoninMoto View Post
Hey folks. I was never able to fin exactally how many watts the 690 uses for fi, spark, comp etc. So I ran an experiment tonight. I hooked my amp meter up in series with the battery (with a parralell jumper to start it) and disconnected the stator, headlight.. all but the tail and dash.

After starting the bike and removing the temp jumper this is what I found:

a steady 6 amps flowing at idel or up in the revs.
6amps x 12 volts = 72 watts.

Call it 80w just to be safe and you have about 145w to play with for everything else. Hope this info is helpfull to others.
thx. good info for those with heated gear. but i'm sure you know that judging from your avatar.

also thanks to the FFs who gave me the cycra info! cant wait til my bike arrives!
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Old 03-02-2012, 05:10 PM   #2002
jonnykilo
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: East Coast Canada
Oddometer: 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoninMoto View Post
Hey folks. I was never able to fin exactally how many watts the 690 uses for fi, spark, comp etc. So I ran an experiment tonight. I hooked my amp meter up in series with the battery (with a parralell jumper to start it) and disconnected the stator, headlight.. all but the tail and dash.

After starting the bike and removing the temp jumper this is what I found:

a steady 6 amps flowing at idel or up in the revs.
6amps x 12 volts = 72 watts.

Call it 80w just to be safe and you have about 145w to play with for everything else. Hope this info is helpfull to others.
Very helpful. Thanks. Think there is any diff from your 10 to my 08?
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Old 03-02-2012, 05:29 PM   #2003
RoninMoto
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Joined: May 2010
Location: EN ZED
Oddometer: 1,614
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnykilo View Post
Very helpful. Thanks. Think there is any diff from your 10 to my 08?
I wouldn't think it would be to much different. but you never know.
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RTW Ride Report --> http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781893
Blog ------------------> http://rtwwithnoah.blogspot.com/
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Old 03-02-2012, 06:56 PM   #2004
Mudguts
when in doubt GAS IT
 
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Some were in , lostralia
Oddometer: 2,029
Quote:
Originally Posted by R-dubb View Post
Ok....moving on.

Kind of think the rattle fit on the basket is perfectly normal.

Middle friction plates measure right at the wear limit of 2.5mm (new ones are 2.8mm). Facing discs show lots of burning and discoloration but not warped. Spring lengths are near the bottom of sag limit but not under. Looks like a good time for a new clutch. I've got abot 10,000 miles on the bike, some of it fairly rough duty.

Very easy job. EBC kit not very expenssive. Well worth doing. I'll let you all know how the new one works in a few days.
Remember to soak the new plates for a few hours or over night in fresh oil
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:43 PM   #2005
R-dubb
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Joined: Aug 2001
Location: San Francisco
Oddometer: 4,764
Quote:
Originally Posted by Velociraptor View Post
Nice to read about this since I am replacing my clutch plates at the end of the month. I have the manual but it is a little vague.
yeah, the manual is kind of bogus except for the wear limit specifications. It would have you removing the entire clutch pack in the basket. Way more work, no benefit if replacing the plates is what you are in there for.

Here's what I did:

1. unbolt and move foot peg bracket and rear brake to the side as a unit
2. drain oil
3. remove clutch cover, mark top crown orientation with sharpie
4. insert (4) M5x40 screws finger tight into clutch pack
5. remove the four main 10mm clutch bolts with springs
6. unscrew the four M5 screws you just put in gradually releasing secondary spring (very light tension)
7. slide out clutch pack making note of sequence and such
8. replace parts as needed (soak new friction plates in oil overnight beforehand) and reassemble the same way it came out

That's all there is to it. I'm screwing around or it would be a one hour job start to finish.
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Old 03-03-2012, 06:05 AM   #2006
cpg7562
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Pace, Fl - USA
Oddometer: 102
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoninMoto View Post
Hey folks. I was never able to fin exactally how many watts the 690 uses for fi, spark, comp etc. So I ran an experiment tonight. I hooked my amp meter up in series with the battery (with a parralell jumper to start it) and disconnected the stator, headlight.. all but the tail and dash.

After starting the bike and removing the temp jumper this is what I found:

a steady 6 amps flowing at idel or up in the revs.
6amps x 12 volts = 72 watts.

Call it 80w just to be safe and you have about 145w to play with for everything else. Hope this info is helpfull to others.

ah very nice. good thinking on doing it this way. that will make it easy to factor in the farkles. thanks for the info!
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Old 03-03-2012, 06:39 AM   #2007
BK.RD.RNR
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Livin' in the 90's
Oddometer: 5,331
Has anyone employed the Giant Loop Great Basin bag with a stock exhaust on their 690?

I just got mine yesterday, and do not see how I will be able to mount the heat shield they supplied with it.

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Old 03-03-2012, 07:03 AM   #2008
Mac
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Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Colorado Springs
Oddometer: 2,103
Quote:
Originally Posted by BK.RD.RNR View Post
Has anyone employed the Giant Loop Great Basin bag with a stock exhaust on their 690?

I just got mine yesterday, and do not see how I will be able to mount the heat shield they supplied with it.

No, and I wouldn't recommend it. Unless you want the left side of your bag melted into one big mass of goo, that is.
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Old 03-03-2012, 08:01 AM   #2009
Velociraptor
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Joined: Apr 2005
Location: Seattle
Oddometer: 1,021
Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by R-dubb View Post
yeah, the manual is kind of bogus except for the wear limit specifications. It would have you removing the entire clutch pack in the basket. Way more work, no benefit if replacing the plates is what you are in there for.

Here's what I did:

1. unbolt and move foot peg bracket and rear brake to the side as a unit
2. drain oil
3. remove clutch cover, mark top crown orientation with sharpie
4. insert (4) M5x40 screws finger tight into clutch pack
5. remove the four main 10mm clutch bolts with springs
6. unscrew the four M5 screws you just put in gradually releasing secondary spring (very light tension)
7. slide out clutch pack making note of sequence and such
8. replace parts as needed (soak new friction plates in oil overnight beforehand) and reassemble the same way it came out

That's all there is to it. I'm screwing around or it would be a one hour job start to finish.
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2014 KTM EXC 500
2014 KTM 1290 Superduke R
2009 KTM 690r Enduro SOLD
2002 RC51 SOLD
2010 KTM 990 Supermoto R SOLD
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Old 03-03-2012, 08:08 AM   #2010
Barman
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Saratoga Springs, NY
Oddometer: 1,166
Quote:
Originally Posted by BK.RD.RNR View Post
Has anyone employed the Giant Loop Great Basin bag with a stock exhaust on their 690?

I just got mine yesterday, and do not see how I will be able to mount the heat shield they supplied with it.

Hey Fran.
Rally Raid has this new soft luggage rack. http://www.rally-raidproducts.co.uk/...lable-in-shop/
It has locations to mount one of those agri supply tool tubes and Rotopax. Handy. I've had one on order for a while now but I'm confident it will be here before the season starts.
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