R 1100/1150 GS/RT/RS/R/S throttle body repair kit

[Dan Cãta]

I have been asked by a number of BMW boxer owners now, what about the TB's that have the pulley pressed onto the shaft. So, some of them, for later years, the pulleys get on the shaft and then they have a hole in the middle, which is punched so that the pulley stays fixed on the spindles.

The spindles that I supply for such TB's have a hole and inside thread, screw and washer that are used to hold everything in place. So you can just punch out the old shaft with something round and hard, having the OD =< 5 mm and you can easily break those apart and use my spindles. Just use the force, nothing else :)

And once again, remember to punch the small M3 screws after putting the plate inside, in a "+" pattern, as a safety measure.

[Dan Cãta]

Hi all,

Two nights ago, I was having some maintenance done on a friend's r1100gs, a '95. After adding paralever bushings, changing oils and adjusting the valves, it was time for sync. As soon as I started the bike to warm it up, I could hear the clatter on the R/H side, coming from the intake. As I put finger pressure on that side's pulley, the ticking sound stopped.

Since it was late and we had no time to fix the TB, I just tried to sync the bike with the intake as it was. For idle speed, all was fine, but when it came to syncing it @ 2500 rpm, it would just fluctuate. I was using the Harmonizer that I got from an inmate here - it's a very nice tool and easy to use.

So as I was setting the cable right, if I came back at idle speed and then back to 2500rpm or above, the bike was every time out of sync, indicating values for about 40 50 mbar on one side. Adjusting it again, dropping at idle and then revved again, the Harmonizer would again indicate that the bike was out of sync every time.

The point is that until now, I knew that a clattering intake would make sync close to impossible, but now, I know that for sure.

Dan.

[Beaky Bike]

Hi Dan. I am after one of the throttle body repair kits for the RH side on my 1996 R1100GS that has developed the dreaded rattle at idle. Can you let me know the cost to supply and send to Wellington, New Zealand please. I have recently bought the bike and it has only done 25,000kms (I have the full service history) so should it be developing this problem after so few kms?

You can emal me on m_osborne@xtra.co.nz


Thanks


Mike

[Kawidad]

I wanted to give a shout out to Dan and thank him publicly for this kit and the web instructions. It didn't go smoothly, but the kit was good and now the bike sounds like a beemer should.

[Dan Cãta]

Originally Posted by Beaky Bike

Hi Dan. I am after one of the throttle body repair kits for the RH side on my 1996 R1100GS that has developed the dreaded rattle at idle. Can you let me know the cost to supply and send to Wellington, New Zealand please. I have recently bought the bike and it has only done 25,000kms (I have the full service history) so should it be developing this problem after so few kms?

You can emal me on


Thanks


Mike

Email sent.

Originally Posted by Kawidad

I wanted to give a shout out to Dan and thank him publicly for this kit and the web instructions. It didn't go smoothly, but the kit was good and now the bike sounds like a beemer should.

I'm glad it worked out fine. Thanks a lot for the review.

Thanks,
Dan.

[SourKraut]

I sent you a PM but didn't include the manuf. date of my 1150GS - November 1999.

[Dan Cãta]

PM'd you back.

Thanks,
Dan.

[twinsig]

Dan, need both sides please, and thank you in advance....

[Dan Cãta]

Originally Posted by twinsig

Dan, need both sides please, and thank you in advance....

Hi,

I've sent you a PM on this.

Thanks,
Dan.

[LandLocked]

I had a hec of a time getting my RS body apart. Get it apart I did though, and now I have even bigger problems getting it back together...

Mine is a 2003 1150 GS Sport. The throttle bodies are labeled BING 75/ and then in smaller numbers 45/110...

Mine have the recently mentioned pressed on pulleys, so putting it back together with the original shaft is pretty much out of the question at this point. The pulley side of the body had no "thinner washer" as per the instructions. Also it differed from the reassembly instructions in that the butterfly screws were inserted from the engine side rather than the airbox side. So far, these are no big deal, but I mention them in case they point to me having the wrong kit?

Here are the bigger deals. The machined flats on the spindle to accept the pulley appears to be too long. It extends about 0.5 mm beyond the pulley, so there is no way the kit-supplied washer will secure the pulley, even if the screw apparently intended for this purpose was not a good 3 mm from tightening against the washer/pulley when it bottoms out in the threaded hole on the end of the spindle. Both the spindle flat and the retaining screw are way too long...

I figured I could file down the end of the spindle and cut off the screw with my Dremel as necessary, but first I wanted to trial fit the rest of the parts...

I found that I was unable to insert the butterfly fully into the spindle. Removal of the components and an examination revealed that though the butterfly can be fully inserted into the spindle, the screw holes are too close together to accommodate the holes in the butterfly (by about a half a hole). Since this did not account for my inability to fully insert the butterfly in the throttle body, I tried again. I found that the machining of the slot does not extend sufficiently toward the pulley side of the body (even with the spindle fully inserted from the cap side as allowed by the c-clip and washer) to accomodate the full width of the butterfly...

It appears I can remove material inside the spindle cutout for the butterfly with a hacksaw, but it will be very close as the whether or not this allows me to insert the two retaining screws. Comparing the new and old spindles to one another, the holes in the new spindle are between 1 mm and 2 mm closer together, so that under the best case scenario would the screws match the holes in the butterfly, and then just barely. There is no wiggle room side to side as a result...

Speaking of those screws, they are way too long to stake over as per the instructions. However, the kit contains little nuts sized to fit them. Is it the idea that the nuts are screwed on after full assembly as locking nuts?

Has anyone else had these issues? Reading the above, it sounds as this has all gone much smoother for others...

I took pictures that illustrate all the above, but I doubt I will be able to post them. Hopefully, my descriptions make sense...

[Dan Cãta]

Lester, I replied to your email.

Thanks,
Dan.

[LandLocked]

eMail response sent... Thank you Dan!

[Jamesville]

Great Product! I installed the right side TB rebuild kit this afternoon. 2002 R1150GS Adventure. The rattle at idle is gone. Thanks Dan, for a well thought out kit. I was able to remove the old bushings without any trouble by using a 9mmx1.0 tap threaded 4 turns into the old bushing. This got a good bite and I used a 5/16"X4" bolt from the opposite side to tap the bushing out. I had to file a bit out of the slot in the new shaft to allow the plate to float for adjustment, but all in all it went very well, and I am pleased with the results.

Bob

[Dan Cãta]

A tap works just fine for removing the old bushings, but I figured a screw extractor kit was cheaper to purchase than a tap set.

I'm glad you got it working ;)

Dan.

[BleedbeemR]

Just replaced a set with the kit i received from Dan Cata, very simple to do, works flawlessly, Thanks Dan Cata