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Old 08-25-2011, 08:25 PM   #1
facetjoint OP
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R1100rt inst. Light issues, need help

I have some weird things happening with my instrument cluster lights on my 97 RT. The hi beam indicator is on all the time??? The trans. neutral light no worky either. The Voo Doo shows the gear selections correctly. And the bike will start in gear with the side stand down??

Tell me where to start please?

Thanks Bill
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Old 08-26-2011, 10:46 AM   #2
Husky Varmit
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I can only address one of these with any kind of confidence that I would even be close.

The neutral light and the gear indicator in the RID come from two separate assemblies attached to the rear of the transmission. It is not uncommon for the switch for the light to get gummed up and not turn on the light on the instrument panel. Not a major problem, but a pain in the rear to replace. You might want to check it out anyway since there are a couple of o-rings on the shaft that keep trans oil from leaking out of the back of the trans.

FYI - mine started doing the same thing a few weeks ago, but will usually come on if I put it in neutral and release the clutch. Have to replace the switch next time I am working in that area.

On the other two:

Neither really sounds like an instrument panel problem. The side stand switch is one of the simplest circuits on the bike. If I remember right (a 50/50 chance) the switch opens up when you put down the side stand, so it may be as simple as crud holding the switch closed. Many folks have disabled this completely. Not a good idea on the RT's since you can cook the plastic very quickly from exhaust heat.

No idea on the high beam light. Are you sure it isn't the headlights are on lamp? Is this a new problem? Intermittent? Started after some other repair?
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Old 08-26-2011, 11:46 AM   #3
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Thanks! At this point I will take any and all help. I just rebuilt the transmission. I cleaned the switch real good. At least I thought I did. And replaced the seal and o-rings on it as well. I was just looking for ideas for places to start. My main concern really is the side stand switch and starting while in gear with the side stand down problem.

Thanks Bill
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Old 08-26-2011, 07:36 PM   #4
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How old is the battery ? RTs will start throwing all sorts of funky signs at you that the battery is low...none of which would make you even think about a battery. ABS lights get qwirky also...
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Old 08-26-2011, 08:05 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by moymurfs View Post
How old is the battery ? RTs will start throwing all sorts of funky signs at you that the battery is low...none of which would make you even think about a battery. ABS lights get qwirky also...
This is basically what I have. Especially with the ABS lights going wacko. One time they reset and the lights go out. Next time they keep flashing. The bike is always on a BMW battery tender. I had the battery tested a few weeks ago. It fell in the 95% positive range. I will pull it out and have it retested. I have the tank and all the Tupperware off waiting SS brake hoses.
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Old 08-26-2011, 09:46 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by facetjoint View Post
Thanks! At this point I will take any and all help. I just rebuilt the transmission. I cleaned the switch real good. At least I thought I did. And replaced the seal and o-rings on it as well. I was just looking for ideas for places to start. My main concern really is the side stand switch and starting while in gear with the side stand down problem.

Thanks Bill

Bingo! When you slipped the most rearward of the two round thinga-ma-jiggers over the shift drum extension I would bet a nickel that it was hard to push it on.

Since you have all the tupperware off, look on the left side for the two wires coming up from the sidestand. They will go up to a connector just below the front of the seat on the left frame. Unplug it and the bike shouldn't start. (sure hope I am remembering that right, it has been a while since I screwed with it and as I remember I had to put a jumper in when I disabled the sidestand switch)

If you want to be safer, use an ohmmeter in the unplugged connector (obviously the side towards the sidestand) and move the sidestand from full up to full down. Easier when bike is on centerstand. The meter should go from very few ohms (switch closed) to a whole lot of ohms (switch open). Since you had the rans out, I would bet another nickel that the switch is fidoogled.

I've never seen a battery cause anything like these 2 problems, but if your ABS lights are still blinking after you start moving - replace the battery.
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Old 08-27-2011, 06:08 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Husky Varmit View Post
Bingo! When you slipped the most rearward of the two round thinga-ma-jiggers over the shift drum extension I would bet a nickel that it was hard to push it on.

Since you have all the tupperware off, look on the left side for the two wires coming up from the sidestand. They will go up to a connector just below the front of the seat on the left frame. Unplug it and the bike shouldn't start. (sure hope I am remembering that right, it has been a while since I screwed with it and as I remember I had to put a jumper in when I disabled the sidestand switch)

If you want to be safer, use an ohmmeter in the unplugged connector (obviously the side towards the sidestand) and move the sidestand from full up to full down. Easier when bike is on centerstand. The meter should go from very few ohms (switch closed) to a whole lot of ohms (switch open). Since you had the rans out, I would bet another nickel that the switch is fidoogled.

I've never seen a battery cause anything like these 2 problems, but if your ABS lights are still blinking after you start moving - replace the battery.
Wow, thanks a lot. that gives me a place to start looking.
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Old 08-28-2011, 09:28 AM   #8
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Also, just as a matter of good practice, find out where the chassis ground is for the instrument cluster and make sure it's secure and clean. Maybe undo it, hit it with a wire brush to get it all shiny.

Bad or weak grounds cause all sorts of weirdness as the electricity tries to find a better path to ground through other lamps, making them glow when they should not.
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Old 08-28-2011, 11:43 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by The Jerk View Post
Also, just as a matter of good practice, find out where the chassis ground is for the instrument cluster and make sure it's secure and clean. Maybe undo it, hit it with a wire brush to get it all shiny.

Bad or weak grounds cause all sorts of weirdness as the electricity tries to find a better path to ground through other lamps, making them glow when they should not.
Thanks I'll chase this down. I just flat hate electrical gremlins,
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Old 02-21-2012, 02:02 PM   #10
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Update info. Still need help??

I'll try and not write a novel here, so here goes. With much needed help from Jamming, we've chased down the no start issue due to a failed H.E.S. switch that went south. I ordered two new aftermarket sensors to mount/rivet to my existing plate. More on that later.

I put on a new side stand sw. and it works properly. The green neutral light in the being inop. will just have to wait till the torque tube comes out next time. It's just way too much work. I will use the VDO as my neutral safety.

I am still chasing the blue high beam indicator being on constantly when the ign. sw. is on. Ive cleaned ans wire brushed all the ground cables/wires etc. that I can find. I've taken the multifunction sw. apart and cleaned it with elec. contact cleaner and compressed shop air. I have all 3 functions out of the light sw. Hi and low beam with flash to pass.

I've removed the cluster from its mounting plate and it is still hooked by all of its wiring. I can not see any indication where a ground strap or wire may have been hooked up. I even removed the head light bulb. The hi beam light is still on????

So once again I will take any and all logical suggestions.

Thanks Bill
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:56 PM   #11
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Darn...something just like that happened to a K-bike not long ago, not sure but I think that was a ground issue with the headlight.I did not pay much attention to that because I had already beefed up my grounds.

If your bike is like most BMWs, the ground(s) to the headlight is(are) too small, some have even melted so just maybe try to ground the high beam bulb somewhere else with a jumper wire. From High Beam Brown straight to the battery.

Nothing logical about the ground paths on my BMW...Ouch!

In the meantime, I'll see if I can dig up that gremlin again.
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Old 02-22-2012, 03:50 AM   #12
facetjoint OP
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I found it, well part of it

I found the head light issue late last night. It was the little park light bulb that fits into te bottom of what I call the head light bucket. Even though the old one was working. Pretty dim but working. After completely pulling off the faring. I decided to pull the light out and look at it. Not knowing how old it was and how long it had been in there. Plus being pretty tough to get to to replace I stuffed a new one in from my stash of spare bulbs. A #194 GE fit the bill. Now the blue hi beam indicator in the instrument cluster works as it should.

Now the last electrical issue that I know exist is the brake light stay on all the time when the key is on. I chased it down to the front brake light switch in the front brake lever. I removed the old switch and it basically crumbled in pieces in my hand. I replaced the switch with a used and same thing. The rear brake switch works as it should.

Once again, ideas would be appreciated.

Final note, I think while I have the fairing off I'll rebuild the radio antenna as I think its is the only thing I've not replaced, repaired, rebuilt, and thoroughly cleaned and inspected. That and the radiator cap!

Thanks Bill
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Old 02-22-2012, 11:48 AM   #13
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Well you got one, I found what I looked for last night and exactly that an issue with the parking bulb. If like the Ks that one goes through the cluster for a power/ground source.

The brake switch? ABS bike? You have to watch that altough the switches may look the same, their function may be different. As in some of them are "always on" and applying the brake breaks the contact. And then that all goes through the ABS and cruise if equipped and then who knows how that is wired in there.

ABS/nonABS/ ABS II / I-ABS, altough the parts may look the same...Hum !Someone just got caught like that on the K-side.
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Old 02-22-2012, 12:35 PM   #14
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Yes about the little parking light bulb. I am still not 100% sure how that is could be the issue/problem. But upon additional checking, looking, and testing. It has to be the culprit. That little bulb has caused me a boat load of grief. Now I've got to start putting this thing back together again.

I know what you mean about the brake light switch being N/O or N/C position. I am ready to go with a brand new switch to see if that is my problem.
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Old 03-05-2012, 03:38 PM   #15
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Mine continued to plague me for a few more days. I've got it cornered down to the multi-function switch for the headlight hi/low sw. So I've got feelers out looking for a good one used one.
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